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Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #226

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    It is pro grade, store brand. I'm told ppg. High build primer that I added flex to. I guess I've always used rattle can guide coat. But I'm no professional. I hear you on the rattle can stuff through. I think it was part of my earlier problem. I'm gonna use the adhesion promoter on my bare spots, make sure there is nothing shiny, and hit it with another couple coats of high build. What do you like for guide coat?

  2. #227

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    Just noticed a crack in the primer under the grill. I picked at it a little and peeled all the primer off the groove under the grill. It smells like fresh sprayed paint, like it never cured. It was wiped down with wax and grease remover Adhesion promoter was used and flex added to the primer. ????

  3. #228

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    I may have been premature to panic. It seems to be just that one spot. Had my body busy look at it, and he's not worried (maybe cause he's not sanding). But I've pretty much sanded it yellow now to fill all the pits and it's ok. Gonna hit it with a.p. then hopefully I final coat of primer/sealer tonight . Then paint it sometime next week. I've now got 2 kids in soccer...and we coach. Yeah

  4. #229
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Sounds good!

    Although generally a primer/sealer is a sealer/initial coat before you start laying on color. Its a seal coat for all the things underneath, but you don't want to sand it as that may allow the things underneath to come back thru.

    If you want/need to spray some more primer on the cover for a final sanding then I would mix the product as a standard primer or a high build if you need that type of coverage. Then save your primer/sealer coat for when you are ready to spray color. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #230

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    Name:  20170813_194729.jpg
Views: 334
Size:  105.2 KB there! a half days work. Including interruptions. I'll final sand tues or wed or thurs or....

  6. #231

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    Isn't that grille just a load of fun to sand?

  7. #232

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    Uhh, no. No it isn't. Prolly an hour and a half each time

  8. #233

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    Name:  15043068821541471718036.jpg
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Size:  61.6 KB so enough sitting around already. Here's what I find today. This area apparently didn't stick... again. Also found a spot right between that grill we love so much and the bumper "moulding", the little trough between. So what now. It was blasted, cleaned til I couldn't clean any more, adhesion promoter used per instructions, primer twice and sanded as thin as I could without going through(I will admit the trough could have been a bit thick but the rest is thin. It seams pretty stuck every where else. I've jabbed a few spots with a pick. It's stuck good beyond what I picked off in the picture.

  9. #234
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have had adhesion problems such as that on some of the 4 eyed bumper covers. The urethane used back then can be a real PITA sometimes.

    I would recommend feather edging as much as you can without causing further issues. Then I would do one of two fixes.

    The first option is to use Evercoat 411 Poly Flex glazing putty to fill/smooth out the areas where the primer didn't stick. This may help to cover or seal any underlining issues that might be embedded in the cover itself. sand smooth to the surrounding areas and then you can either spot prime if you want or just shoot your color over it if sanded well enough.

    The second option is to use Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, apply per directions. The I would primer the spot again, but make sure to not lay on heavy coats. I wouldn't "dust" the primer on, but I would apply several light coats that are not dry but definitely not a wet coat.

    Hope that helps! Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #235

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    I hope this doesn't sound like a silly question, but, did you allow the adhesion promoter enough time to dry before you primered it?

    You usually will have about a fifteen minute window from the time you spray the AP to applying the primer.

    If the AP is still wet, it will cause that exact issue.

    What AP are you using?

  11. #236

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    Thanks trey, that makes me feel a little better. That's my plan of attack tomorrow, the sanding and spot primer. Dave, sem ap . I'd like to think I waited the appropriate time but when you build in heat and humidity, working in the garage/driveway, chasing kids it's possible I jumped the gun. It shows a 15 min flash time. I hope being in direct sun shortens that by a min or 2. It actually looked like the primer had lifted from the bumper. It cracked when I pushed on it, surprising since I used flex in it. I picked off the loose and found it to be pretty tight to the bumper beyond this area. So hopefully it's localized.

  12. #237

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    So I did that, I found one more spot that was loose. I just pulled the loose off feathered it recleaned it all, and hit it with ap, sprayed it again. It turned out pretty good, but as I was sanding out a couple of almost imperceptible imperfections it occurred to me that this is the area that will catch all the rocks and bugs etc. and this is not a show car. So I'm gonna up up early tomorrow and spray some red and clear. There will be a finger to the eye of someone who picks at the imperfections when its done, or I'll run them down with my driver car that I'm having fun driving not hauling and waxing. No offense to those cars this is just not that caliber of car and is not intended to be.

  13. #238

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    I feel like that came off a bit dick-ish. It was not meant to. I would love to own a perfect non driver car someday. But for now a driver that can haul kids to soccer, get ice cream spilled in, bikes and toys knocked into, maybe run some parts in, spank a civic, and be enjoyed by all is where im at... and maybe get a few looks while I'm at it

  14. #239

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    Lol! Sounds less "dick-ish" and more like you want to move on with your build to me. It's good to get away from frustrating things. AND, you will notice more than anyone else will ever.

  15. #240

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    To scuff or not to scuff. I painted and cleared the bumper this morning before anyone got up. I'm gonna wait till tomorrow to paint the black. It really turned out pretty good... So far. Should I scuff the clear before I paint the black or am I still in my chemical window. The tech sheet is a bit confusing for a laymanName:  150445923934531404364.jpg
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  16. #241

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    Yes, scuff it.

  17. #242

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    Dammit dave... one more time over that grill

  18. #243

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    Lol, I feel your pain brother.

  19. #244
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I think an 85 bumper would be easier to sand!

    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  20. #245
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I hate front bumper work. Somehow I got lucky on mine and I have had no issues with the less than stellar paint job lifting. There is a ton of work that still needs to be done to mine to make it look showroom quality, but I'm in no hurry. I got the car to drive it and that's what I intend to do. If people want to point out its flaws then they can go somewhere else. It's a driver, not a beauty queen and I'm ok with that.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #246

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    Victory!Name:  15045686836861857602465.jpg
Views: 240
Size:  147.2 KBits not perfect, but im REALLY pleased with how it came out. now to clean up the garage for our biennial garage sale.

  22. #247

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    Name:  1504568862659640526073.jpg
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Size:  112.1 KBoh yeah, got the fenders done too

  23. #248

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    Yay! Good job man!

  24. #249

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    Any one have a 3m no. For the orange pinstripe on the bumper? Hoping to get the front end buttoned up, then to the alignment shop!

  25. #250
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looks good!

    Glad you finally got the front bumper cover wrapped up. I understand what a pain they are. That's why I won't buy 79-82 non GT Mustangs or the 83-84 Mustangs!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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