Definitely came out good
Definitely came out good
1986 Ford Mustang GT-
Not much stock stuff left
347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering
1981 Mustang GT-
Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
In the middle of rebuild
1986 LX Sedan-
Plans to be determined...
"Every day I learn how much I don't know"
Looking good Shane!
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
To anyone who intends to rivet the header panel back to the front bumper cover. Use a hand operated riveter, the air over hydraulic ones are too violent on 40 year old fiberglass. Ask me how I now know this.or better yet, from now on use a piece of 3/8 brake line and use that notch on the roller you always wondered why was there to cut small pieces of line with a flare on each one. About 1/4 long or so, then open up the header holes to accommodate said piece of brake line flare down, then rivet into place. Now to go mix up some panel bond for a couple header panel reapirs.
FUN!!!!! Isn't it?????
When I changed out the bumper cover on my good header panel, I first tried the "proper" size rivets in the old broken header panel. Now with that being said, the proper size ones, with the large head were steel rivets. That didn't work worth a damn, even with a hand rivet gun. By the time the shaft snapped off the rivet, it had already pulled through the panel. What I ended up doing is getting some slightly larger shaft aluminum rivets with the small head, thin washers I had to drill out to make a large head on the cover and drill the holes in the header panel out so they would fit. A few squeezes of the gun and all was good and looks halfway decent.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Where was this comment when I posted the painted bumper, before I blew out the header
If it wil make you feel better Shane, i'm picking up my blue car and will be putting the header into my bumper. As I screw it up, I'll take pictures of it and credit you for the issue
Nice dave. Have you come up with another way to get it all back together without shattering it? I kinda like the brake line idea, I have everything loosely fit together on the car, WATCH THE HEADER BOLTS GOING THROUGH THE FENDER, NOT SCRATCHING OVER THE FENDER! then have been riveting and bolting together
The ones I have done have taken either a slightly longer or larger rivet. I'll find out with this one when I finally do that part on my blue car.
As most of you have already figured out, ONLY USE ALUMINUM RIVETS!!!!! Don't use steel as they are too strong for the fiberglass header panel.
Another trick for the header panels, although it doesn't work on all of the rivet holes as some are blind and you can't make it work, is to use Allen Button Head bolts and nylon lock nuts. This gives you a similar look to the rivets and allows you to slowly tighten the bolts up and not crack or blow thru the header panel. Hope that helps someone!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
I thought I had pictures of how I did mine, but I'm not finding them. I can shoot a few tonight though for a visual aid.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Another thought on this, push the pin out and cut it a bit so it breaks easier rather than exploding the old header. This may take some trial and error to find out how much to cut
Looking great, Shane!!! Makes me desperate to get back to mine!
Jim DeAngelis
Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide
'83 GT hatch, currently under the knife
'79 Capri 2.3L n/a, Medium Copper metallic, survivor
(bought from MRausch82)
boy that pinstripe sure sets off the front end. And whooa! Is that a licence plate i see... now that really ties the room together. The stripe isn't perfect and I may redo one line, someday
Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 09-22-2017 at 09:09 AM.
I made this out of a piece of aluminum from the metal bin at lowes, to help lift my saggy chin
Let's get her done before Oct. 21st!
Amazon is bringing crew from Grand Tour here to Omaha for some "market research". Our Coffee Cruise group was selected for this event and we are trying to round up everything possible to make the car scene here look awesome.
Last edited by 84StangSVT; 09-28-2017 at 07:30 AM.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Had to lol when I saw the car on 4 ramps facing opposite directions. Remove the jack and it's a great approach to antitheft right.
I noticed this morning that with the sn k member motor trans front suspension that my sn driveshaft seems a bit long. Like it's almost bottomed out just sitting there. Trey I think you've been here before. What did you do? Looks like it could be shortened an inch or so
I would wrap the yoke with tape a ride height then wrap a second time at full droop. Then pull the shaft and do some measuring.
Now look up the minimum yoke engagement measurement. Difference between ride vs min in vs where it is at full droop will lead to suggesting how much too long it is...
You get more droop than bump on a lowered car expecially so if you allow the same amount plus a little the other way from ride height it will tell you pretty much where you are.
double checking -- disconnect the shocks and jack up the body so you can pull the springs. Lower the body enough to reconnect the shocks. Put the body on jack stands. Put a little chalk on the tailshaft. Re- install the driveshaft. jack up the rear diff from the center until you hit the bumpstops. If you can't get there due to the yoke stopping you the shaft is too long. Pull the shaft and inspect the chalk in the slip yoke.
Erratic50 just went thru how to measure, so no need to rehash.
Bottom line if the driveshaft is bottomed out or very close to it with the car sitting at ride height then you will need/want to shorten it. I have a similar issue in my 79 PC 5.0/5 spd conversion, but I am running the Cobra IRS so I don't have the same rear suspension movement that a solid axle car does. I haven't shortened my down at this point and it hasn't caused any issues again thanks to the IRS. Although I might consider doing it when the PC gets its new engine.
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
wife has been bugging me to add this one. She loves daddy's car!
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