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Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #326

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    Trey, you said tomato, I said tomato (loses something in print I know). That's how I have the springs oriented. The uppers are rubber and still loose, the lowers are fresh greased poly, but they were tightened with weight on them.they should turn easy since they aren't stuck to the sleeves.

  2. #327

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    It seems to have settled a bit, it does have poly spring isolaters on.I took it for a short spin this morning with the uppers still loose. I put on the fancy wheels, and once I fix the driver seat floor I'm going to put it together for a while. I feel I, and the family,can use some seat time for a bit. I'll get the hatch and door painted and put those on when they are done. Right now though, time is pretty tight. Lots of irons in the fire. The biggest is packing up, selling our house and moving to one of our rentals or camper for a couple months and building a new house.i do however get a 4 car garage on the other end of the house from kids bedrooms which will be super sweet

  3. #328
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    All right!

    Good planning man. Great progress.

  4. #329

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    Completely unrelated welding trivia. Who knows that you cannot weld over a magnet? Such as pictured. I have been welding a Long time and never knew this. I kept thinking that the metal was contaminated, until I pulled off the magnet. So if someone knows this can it be explained? I think I underst and why... but crazyName:  15244316751602002241540.jpg
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  5. #330

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    I mean directly over, more like this:Name:  15244317572221292573950.jpg
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  6. #331
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I mean directly over, more like this:Name:  15244317572221292573950.jpg
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    I may be totally wrong because it's been a long time since I studied weld theory, but...

    When you weld there is a gap between the wire and the welded pieces. The filler wire actually fills the bead in "droplets". The magnetic field disrupts the flow of the droplets.

  7. #332
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Moltern iron is repelled by the magnetic field, so it goes from being the 41st Infantry and becomes the 41st Company Airborne...

  8. #333

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    It occured to me that ive never had fancy things like mag nets to help hold stuff together

  9. #334
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    It occured to me that ive never had fancy things like mag nets to help hold stuff together
    Maybee its because yours are red and mine are blue....



  10. #335
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    First the pigtail on the springs should both point to the driver side of the car NOT to the rear.

    The next question is did you tighten up the rear control arm bolts with the rear suspension up in the air? You want to make sure you tighten up the rear control arm bolts (YES ALL 8 of them! ) with the suspension loaded at ride height.
    To piggyback on what Trey said, when I did my rear suspension rebuild. Since I had a ton of stuff out of the car, what I did was mock up all the body parts and added the weight of a full tank of gas for my car, about 100# in the spare tire well, before I cinched it down. It worked out good for me.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #336
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Completely unrelated welding trivia. Who knows that you cannot weld over a magnet? Such as pictured. I have been welding a Long time and never knew this. I kept thinking that the metal was contaminated, until I pulled off the magnet. So if someone knows this can it be explained? I think I underst and why... but crazyName:  15244316751602002241540.jpg
Views: 293
Size:  76.1 KB
    Never, never weld over a mag. IMHO, those things are good for only a 1 time spot weld. Tack it at one point, remove the mag, switch to a level and proceed tacking/welding.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #337

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    Name:  20180429_160954.jpg
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Size:  151.4 KB fixed my gangster lean today. First I welded up the spider web then took a piece of 16 g and made a plate for over the top then screwed and welded it all together. Needs cleaned up a bit then I'm gonna star placing my poormans sound sound deadener then carpet and fun times for the summer.

  13. #338

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    Gonna be a driver real soon! I bet your getting antsy now.

  14. #339

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    Yes... but I've been driving around town some already

  15. #340

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    Name:  20180510_175433.jpg
Views: 188
Size:  136.9 KB pulled this today, I'm gonna test fit it first, because I don't need a shiny fresh painted hatch that doesn't fit my car (from 83gt). I never guessed metal could smell so badly from mice so I'm going to wash it first. Plus side, tight hinges too. Even a key included! Things don't get much better

  16. #341
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I used a 79 Indy hatch on my 82 (opposite of you). The latch mechanism is different as is the latch mechanism mounting area on the hatch. I ended up grafting (welding) the mounting area from my original hatch onto the 79 hatch.

    Good luck!
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  17. #342

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    Problem, there is no mounting area on my 79 hatch. I do have an 80 hatch too, but I wanted the defrog

  18. #343
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    The other option is to look into modifying the latch striker on the body of the car. Later cars used a single bolt with a plastic bushing. The early cars had something more like a loop.

    With your abilities, I'm sure you can make it work....
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  19. #344
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    The other option is to look into modifying the latch striker on the body of the car. Later cars used a single bolt with a plastic bushing. The early cars had something more like a loop.

    With your abilities, I'm sure you can make it work....
    You can use the sheetmetal mount from the hatch area of one of the later model cars to make it all work. You will need to drill out some spot welds to make the swap, but pretty easy overall and none of it is visible once the interior plastic is installed. I have considered doing the same with my PC if I end up swapping hatches on it.

    Just remember there are technically 4 different hatch strikers. The 79/80, 81-86, 87-91, and 91-93. I believe the 81-early 91 use the same threads, but I believe the 91-93 might be a different, but I am not 100%.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #345

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    ....... , but I believe the 91-93 might be a different, but I am not 100%.
    Somewhat UN-Surprisingly, this was a mid-year running change. If I was going to go through the trouble of swapping anything in, I would go to the late 91-93 design. Not only does it NOT use a cheap plastic bushing that always breaks and falls off, but it DOES NOT rattle! Much improved. They are NOT interchangeable at all however.

  21. #346

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    Stripped down the hatch today and wah wah. It has a little rot to fix on the lower edge. It will get the same treatment as my door got back a page or so. It's just not gonna get done as soon as I hoped. But, change of direction somewhat, I got carpet put in and rear seats back in. Gotta get the garage cleaned out so we can live in an apartment while I build our new house. Holly cow! With interior in this thing it's nearly civilized to drive now. I knew it would be better, but wow all my poormans sound deadener hvac insulation and some foil wrapped jute like stuff I found in father in law shop really worked! Just need a stereo now and go dig out master of puppets, and cowboys from hell and I will be set

  22. #347
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Awesome, good luck with the build!

  23. #348

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Just need a stereo now and go dig out master of puppets, and cowboys from hell and I will be set
    excellent choices!!
    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide
    '83 GT hatch, currently under the knife
    '79 Capri 2.3L n/a, Medium Copper metallic, survivor
    (bought from MRausch82)

  24. #349

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    I know there is still plenty to do, but, I took the family for a legit ride tonight. Short, but the smiles were totally worth it

  25. #350

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    The kids had fun too

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