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Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #251
    FEP Supporter Mikestang's Avatar
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    Aug 2013
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    Firestone, CO
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    1,111

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    Definitely came out good
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  2. #252

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    Looking good Shane!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #253

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    Looks great!

  4. #254

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    To anyone who intends to rivet the header panel back to the front bumper cover. Use a hand operated riveter, the air over hydraulic ones are too violent on 40 year old fiberglass. Ask me how I now know this.or better yet, from now on use a piece of 3/8 brake line and use that notch on the roller you always wondered why was there to cut small pieces of line with a flare on each one. About 1/4 long or so, then open up the header holes to accommodate said piece of brake line flare down, then rivet into place. Now to go mix up some panel bond for a couple header panel reapirs.

  5. #255

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    To anyone who intends to rivet the header panel back to the front bumper cover. Use a hand operated riveter, the air over hydraulic ones are too violent on 40 year old fiberglass. Ask me how I now know this.or better yet, from now on use a piece of 3/8 brake line and use that notch on the roller you always wondered why was there to cut small pieces of line with a flare on each one. About 1/4 long or so, then open up the header holes to accommodate said piece of brake line flare down, then rivet into place. Now to go mix up some panel bond for a couple header panel reapirs.
    FUN!!!!! Isn't it?????

    When I changed out the bumper cover on my good header panel, I first tried the "proper" size rivets in the old broken header panel. Now with that being said, the proper size ones, with the large head were steel rivets. That didn't work worth a damn, even with a hand rivet gun. By the time the shaft snapped off the rivet, it had already pulled through the panel. What I ended up doing is getting some slightly larger shaft aluminum rivets with the small head, thin washers I had to drill out to make a large head on the cover and drill the holes in the header panel out so they would fit. A few squeezes of the gun and all was good and looks halfway decent.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #256

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    Where was this comment when I posted the painted bumper, before I blew out the header

  7. #257

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    If it wil make you feel better Shane, i'm picking up my blue car and will be putting the header into my bumper. As I screw it up, I'll take pictures of it and credit you for the issue

  8. #258

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    Nice dave. Have you come up with another way to get it all back together without shattering it? I kinda like the brake line idea, I have everything loosely fit together on the car, WATCH THE HEADER BOLTS GOING THROUGH THE FENDER, NOT SCRATCHING OVER THE FENDER! then have been riveting and bolting together

  9. #259

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    The ones I have done have taken either a slightly longer or larger rivet. I'll find out with this one when I finally do that part on my blue car.

  10. #260
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    As most of you have already figured out, ONLY USE ALUMINUM RIVETS!!!!! Don't use steel as they are too strong for the fiberglass header panel.

    Another trick for the header panels, although it doesn't work on all of the rivet holes as some are blind and you can't make it work, is to use Allen Button Head bolts and nylon lock nuts. This gives you a similar look to the rivets and allows you to slowly tighten the bolts up and not crack or blow thru the header panel. Hope that helps someone!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #261

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    I thought I had pictures of how I did mine, but I'm not finding them. I can shoot a few tonight though for a visual aid.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #262

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    Another thought on this, push the pin out and cut it a bit so it breaks easier rather than exploding the old header. This may take some trial and error to find out how much to cut

  13. #263

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    Looking great, Shane!!! Makes me desperate to get back to mine!
    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide

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