Close



Page 11 of 13 FirstFirst ... 910111213 LastLast
Results 251 to 275 of 303

Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #251
    FEP Supporter Mikestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Firestone, CO
    Posts
    1,146

    Default

    Definitely came out good
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  2. #252
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,066

    Default

    Looking good Shane!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #253

    Default

    Looks great!

  4. #254

    Default

    To anyone who intends to rivet the header panel back to the front bumper cover. Use a hand operated riveter, the air over hydraulic ones are too violent on 40 year old fiberglass. Ask me how I now know this.or better yet, from now on use a piece of 3/8 brake line and use that notch on the roller you always wondered why was there to cut small pieces of line with a flare on each one. About 1/4 long or so, then open up the header holes to accommodate said piece of brake line flare down, then rivet into place. Now to go mix up some panel bond for a couple header panel reapirs.

  5. #255
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,066

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    To anyone who intends to rivet the header panel back to the front bumper cover. Use a hand operated riveter, the air over hydraulic ones are too violent on 40 year old fiberglass. Ask me how I now know this.or better yet, from now on use a piece of 3/8 brake line and use that notch on the roller you always wondered why was there to cut small pieces of line with a flare on each one. About 1/4 long or so, then open up the header holes to accommodate said piece of brake line flare down, then rivet into place. Now to go mix up some panel bond for a couple header panel reapirs.
    FUN!!!!! Isn't it?????

    When I changed out the bumper cover on my good header panel, I first tried the "proper" size rivets in the old broken header panel. Now with that being said, the proper size ones, with the large head were steel rivets. That didn't work worth a damn, even with a hand rivet gun. By the time the shaft snapped off the rivet, it had already pulled through the panel. What I ended up doing is getting some slightly larger shaft aluminum rivets with the small head, thin washers I had to drill out to make a large head on the cover and drill the holes in the header panel out so they would fit. A few squeezes of the gun and all was good and looks halfway decent.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #256

    Default

    Where was this comment when I posted the painted bumper, before I blew out the header

  7. #257

    Default

    If it wil make you feel better Shane, i'm picking up my blue car and will be putting the header into my bumper. As I screw it up, I'll take pictures of it and credit you for the issue

  8. #258

    Default

    Nice dave. Have you come up with another way to get it all back together without shattering it? I kinda like the brake line idea, I have everything loosely fit together on the car, WATCH THE HEADER BOLTS GOING THROUGH THE FENDER, NOT SCRATCHING OVER THE FENDER! then have been riveting and bolting together

  9. #259

    Default

    The ones I have done have taken either a slightly longer or larger rivet. I'll find out with this one when I finally do that part on my blue car.

  10. #260
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO
    Posts
    10,914

    Default

    As most of you have already figured out, ONLY USE ALUMINUM RIVETS!!!!! Don't use steel as they are too strong for the fiberglass header panel.

    Another trick for the header panels, although it doesn't work on all of the rivet holes as some are blind and you can't make it work, is to use Allen Button Head bolts and nylon lock nuts. This gives you a similar look to the rivets and allows you to slowly tighten the bolts up and not crack or blow thru the header panel. Hope that helps someone!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #261
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,066

    Default

    I thought I had pictures of how I did mine, but I'm not finding them. I can shoot a few tonight though for a visual aid.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #262

    Default

    Another thought on this, push the pin out and cut it a bit so it breaks easier rather than exploding the old header. This may take some trial and error to find out how much to cut

  13. #263

    Default

    Looking great, Shane!!! Makes me desperate to get back to mine!
    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide
    '83 GT hatch, currently under the knife

  14. #264

    Default

    Name:  15060886782762917584.jpg
Views: 190
Size:  156.2 KBboy that pinstripe sure sets off the front end. And whooa! Is that a licence plate i see... now that really ties the room together. The stripe isn't perfect and I may redo one line, someday
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 09-22-2017 at 10:09 AM.

  15. #265

    Default

    Very nice.

  16. #266

    Default

    Jeez Shane, that looks great

  17. #267

    Default

    Name:  15065508590321793344788.jpg
Views: 166
Size:  122.0 KBI made this out of a piece of aluminum from the metal bin at lowes, to help lift my saggy chin

  18. #268

  19. #269
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,066

    Default

    Let's get her done before Oct. 21st!
    Amazon is bringing crew from Grand Tour here to Omaha for some "market research". Our Coffee Cruise group was selected for this event and we are trying to round up everything possible to make the car scene here look awesome.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 09-28-2017 at 08:30 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #270

    Default

    Had to lol when I saw the car on 4 ramps facing opposite directions. Remove the jack and it's a great approach to antitheft right.

  21. #271
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,066

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Had to lol when I saw the car on 4 ramps facing opposite directions. Remove the jack and it's a great approach to antitheft right.
    Lol.....that's how my car rocks the winter pose.
    Name:  IMG_0153.JPG
Views: 147
Size:  112.1 KB
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #272

    Default

    I noticed this morning that with the sn k member motor trans front suspension that my sn driveshaft seems a bit long. Like it's almost bottomed out just sitting there. Trey I think you've been here before. What did you do? Looks like it could be shortened an inch or so

  23. #273

    Default

    I would wrap the yoke with tape a ride height then wrap a second time at full droop. Then pull the shaft and do some measuring.

    Now look up the minimum yoke engagement measurement. Difference between ride vs min in vs where it is at full droop will lead to suggesting how much too long it is...

    You get more droop than bump on a lowered car expecially so if you allow the same amount plus a little the other way from ride height it will tell you pretty much where you are.

    double checking -- disconnect the shocks and jack up the body so you can pull the springs. Lower the body enough to reconnect the shocks. Put the body on jack stands. Put a little chalk on the tailshaft. Re- install the driveshaft. jack up the rear diff from the center until you hit the bumpstops. If you can't get there due to the yoke stopping you the shaft is too long. Pull the shaft and inspect the chalk in the slip yoke.

  24. #274
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO
    Posts
    10,914

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I noticed this morning that with the sn k member motor trans front suspension that my sn driveshaft seems a bit long. Like it's almost bottomed out just sitting there. Trey I think you've been here before. What did you do? Looks like it could be shortened an inch or so
    Erratic50 just went thru how to measure, so no need to rehash.

    Bottom line if the driveshaft is bottomed out or very close to it with the car sitting at ride height then you will need/want to shorten it. I have a similar issue in my 79 PC 5.0/5 spd conversion, but I am running the Cobra IRS so I don't have the same rear suspension movement that a solid axle car does. I haven't shortened my down at this point and it hasn't caused any issues again thanks to the IRS. Although I might consider doing it when the PC gets its new engine.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  25. #275

    Default

    Name:  20170914_082154.jpg
Views: 121
Size:  149.4 KBwife has been bugging me to add this one. She loves daddy's car!

Page 11 of 13 FirstFirst ... 910111213 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •