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Thread: 79 cobra build

  1. #201

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    Identity revealed!!

    Name:  20170719_190919.jpg
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    the wife snapped this precious moment tonight while we were wet sanding my bumper cover. I hope for it to be red and black and on the car by the end of the week
    Last edited by wraithracing; 07-20-2017 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Fix Picture

  2. #202

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    Haha! You got caught bare footed!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #203

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    Yeah its miserable outside, and i was slipping around in my sandles so I kicked them off. No osha onspectors in my driveway!

  4. #204

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    Glad I'm in Colorado Springs where it's only in the mid 80's. LOL
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #205
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Glad I'm in Colorado Springs where it's only in the mid 80's. LOL
    WTH!! You are in Colo Springs and I am sweating to death down here in TX!!!! Oh well, I will be back in GJ by Sunday!

    2nd Chance Cobra, I feel you on the wet sanding I have been doing that on a 72 Mustang for the past couple of weeks to get it into final primer before heading back to GJ. I have no fingerprints and therefore can't seem to grab anything without it slipping out of my fingers!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #206

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    WTH!! You are in Colo Springs and I am sweating to death down here in TX!!!! Oh well, I will be back in GJ by Sunday!
    Sorry Bro!

    I will be back in the sweltering heat come Saturday though. I can't get them to let me stay out here for a second week in a row.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #207

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    I too have no fingerprints trey, do you want to rob a bank with me?

  8. #208

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    Ok so... block bumper and scoop to done. Rustoleum auto grade primer on a few spots that rubbed through. 2. Wax and grease on scoop. Primer wiped off?!? 3. Paint scoop. Looks good. Sand dirt from scoop respray scoop. 4 w&g remover on bumper, transfer some to towel. Paint bumper. 5 scoop wrinkled bumper looks great! Knock wrinkles off scoop. W&g remover on bumper. Clear scoop and bumper. This time scoop looks great and on the 2nd coat the bumper wrinkled i guess in the morning ill sand the wrinkles off the bumper and re clear or maybe repaint and reclear. Follow all that? Ideas so maybe i dont do it again. All paint/clear was same cup. Had flex in the clear
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 07-21-2017 at 08:32 PM.

  9. #209

  10. #210

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    Also no wrinkles on my masking, so I must have done something wrong. The bumper looked perfect after the first coat of clear.

  11. #211

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    Too hot a reducer?
    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide

  12. #212

    Angry

    Name:  20170722_095720.jpg
Views: 195
Size:  74.1 KBhere's what I found this morning. Dropped it off to be glass beaded an hour ago, and we will try again. Even the primer cracked with the slightest movement of the bumper. The paint house told me I didn't need a flex additive in the primer, just the clear Clearly that's not correct
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 07-22-2017 at 11:40 AM.

  13. #213
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    What type of primer did you use?

    The red paint appears to be a lack of adhesion to the primer.

    What did you wet sand the primer with?

    Did you use any adhesion promoter?

    What was your process, step by step for spraying the bumper cover?
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #214

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    Name:  15008470217811425707319.jpg
Views: 164
Size:  123.7 KB I think I have it figured out after talking to a couple buddies who are professionals. But here it is, blocked with 400 then 600 with some rattle can guide coat. Problem 1. I used some rustoleum pro auto primer to hit some sand through spots, whitch turned into a light coat to even the color out.Then put on 4 coats color. Let it cure then cleared 2coats. Problem 2, I must have had too much time between clear coats. According to my 2 professionals. I'll pick up my fresh blasted bumper tomorrow and start over. Moral of the story: never post what you are going to have done, only what you have done
    Ps. Welcome home trey

  15. #215
    FEP Senior Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    So the main problem was that you didn't recoat within the required window?

    There's a reason professional paint jobs are expensive, so don't feel bad. I've made my share of mistakes too. The way I see it, the difference between me and a professional is that the professionals have already made the mistakes I'm currently making!

  16. #216

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    Well I think the window shrunk sizeabley since all the tech sheets are at 70 degrees and low humidity and it was 90 and 100 percent humidity. I'm no professional painter for sure, but it's just not my car if I drop it off and write a big check and pick it up a couple months later. I always say education is expensive, on the streets or in the classroom. It's not the end of the world I'll just take a couple days off and do some other things an then hop back on the horse... or pony as it would seem
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 07-24-2017 at 06:57 AM.

  17. #217
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about your troubles buddy!

    I will throw in my .02 worth just as a FYI. As I always say, as 100 painters how to do it and you will get 100 different answers! Figure out what works for you and stick with it when possible is pretty much how I do it.

    First I personally don't like final sanding with anything finer than 400 wet. I know many go to 600 and even 800 and make it work, but I personally have had adhesion problems when doing that and therefore I never sand finer than 400 on standard painting.

    I NEVER use rattle can primer such as Rustoleum, Krylon, etc. as it seems to ALWAYS bit me in the ass. I personally like to wet sand to 400 and then if needed I spray a primer/sealer coat to even everything out and make sure there aren't any sand thru or bare spots.

    In regards to the actual color coat. The great Jon Kosmoski of House of Kolor told us in a class that # of coats is determined by your coverage. Full coverage plus one coat is all that you need for a good paint job. Some colors that might be a total of 3, others 4, and others maybe even more. More paint doesn't mean a better paint job it just means a thicker paint job that can lead to cracking, chipping, flaking, etc. Red's can be a real pain so I often try to use either a tinted grey primer/sealer that helps with coverage or even a red tinted sealer to improve the coverage. That's a personal choice, but one to consider IMHO.

    As for flash times, recoat times, etc. you have to remember that ALL of your standard paints have been standardized to a 70 degree temp with low humidity and the air flow of a spray booth. That all changes when you are painting outside as you don't have the same airflow. Now throw in the additional temperature and higher humidity and everything is out of wack. That is where you have to be careful to not paint too soon ( I just did that to myself down in TX!) but also not wait too long. I personally don't have good luck stretching my recoat windows out to the extended times. I always seem to have adhesion problems. But I also can be impatient and want to spray the next coat too soon. That is where looking at your paint to verify and using a stopwatch is your friend. I use the paint mfg guidelines and then adjust based upon my conditions. I start my timer once I stop painting the first coat. Then when I start spraying the next coat I always start in the exact same area/part that I started with and finish in the same area/part again. That is consistency and will help prevent issues. Bases should always be dull/flat looking before the next coat. Some of the newer paints don't die off like the old stuff so that actually have more of a satin look, but the parts should have an even sheen across them. I like to spray a section of masking paper at the start too that allows me to check and hit it first on the subsequent coats to see what is going to happen. If it reacts then I know I need to wait a bit longer.

    Clears are a bit more forgiving so I give them a decent flash window before starting, but again I don't like to push it to the 8 hour/24 hour mark as some brands say you can. I generally try to clear everything within a couple hours of the final base coat unless I am doing graphics or something that I need to mask on the base for. Then I will allow a few extra hours just to make sure the base doesn't lift with the masking.

    Hopefully that may give you some tips and ideas to try. Painting a car yourself is a huge task and accomplishment and feels great once your done, but can test your sanity at times while doing. Just wait until you try your first true Kandy Paint Job! Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or need some help. I can even give you my phone # if that makes it easier. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  18. #218

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    Today I got a bunch of wires actually cut and terminated. It almost looks like the dash is back in... mostly. But I do feel like an idiot a bit. I worked on the dash lights for longer than I needed. With all the wires hanging and spliced an on and on, and mating 94 and 79 wires, it never occurred to me how dim dash lights were in 79. I finally walked away frustrated with it. Now that it's dark (duh) I went out and checked it again. Guess what, they all work but one over the gas guage. My dad would laugh at me.

  19. #219
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Congrats!

    All I will say is that LED's are a Four Eyes best friends! I mean ALL of them too!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #220

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    Back to painting when we get home. In the camper again this week. I have to get all these parts out of the garage. The summer sure gets short, soccer baseball graduations weddings vacations, you know. Plus the wife wants the volvo in the garage
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 08-06-2017 at 11:43 AM.

  21. #221

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    Looking forward to seeing more progress. I feel ya on the short summer, as this one has been odd and extremely short for me. Between moving, remodeling, graduations, work and just general life, I haven't gotten much "fun" time at all. Hell, I haven't even bought a fishing license this year, or gone, and I usually have that in April. Too late to want to blow $30 on it just to maybe go once.

    Hoping next year will be less hectic!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #222

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    Name:  20170807_172144.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  115.1 KB were at boji Brock. Boy caught his first ever! Had another big hook down in his throat. Not too bright, those fish

  23. #223

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Name:  20170807_172144.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  115.1 KB were at boji Brock. Boy caught his first ever! Had another big hook down in his throat. Not too bright, those fish
    Sweet! also thanks for rubbing it in....

    I would take a dumb hook swallowing fish anytime over not being able to go at all.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #224

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    Ok back to business, bumper is in primer, following a good dose of adhesion promoter. Since I had the bumper bead blasted it also exfoliated the bumper pretty good and has left a few more pits than I started with. So I'm sanding pretty much all my fist 2 coates of high build off to fill the pits. Is it permissible to still have guidecoate aka black krylon showing before I spray another couple coats of high build? And should I hit the showing sand through
    spots of bumper showing with adhesion promoter before primer? Oh yeah and thanks for g etting the site back up!

  25. #225
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have had issues with rattle can primer/paints coming back to bite me in the A$$ when doing stuff like this. Maybe you won't, but if it were me, first I wouldn't use rattle can as a guide coat or primer with BC/CC etc. Also I would remove all of the paint before moving to the next step. A primer/sealer (automotive grade) might be advantageous to spray over the current setup.

    The adhesion promoter may help and prevent some issues. An epoxy sealer can do the same thing, but sometimes you have to be careful on plastic/urethane parts with epoxy as it can dry hard/brittle and cause cracking issues later. Don't ask how I know! Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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