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  1. #126
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    You don't have to, don't need to and in fact....just throw that curiosity in the trash can.

    Like everything else Ford does, I firmly believe they put that in there to distract and confuse you and it has absolutely no meaning to anyone/anything. If you look, there are tons of the connectors that have different colors, shapes and so forth but yet have the same 5 digit number.

    I learned in my EFI/wiring conversion that following the EVTM and or electrical schematics was hard enough as it is and you don't need to add any further complexity to the job that you are doing so well at currently.

    Keep up the good work brother!
    Brock, that sounds like my plan anyway. I wasn't letting that info get in my way! But curiosity! It's like a Russian engineer who couldn't speak any English wrote these diagrams and a Chinese engineer who spoke Pig Russian and Engrish translated them and wrote these diagrams. I have the wiring diagrams off of here and the EVTM and I still sometimes get a headache trying to figure out where a wiring is coming and going to.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  2. #127
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Brock, that sounds like my plan anyway. I wasn't letting that info get in my way! But curiosity! It's like a Russian engineer who couldn't speak any English wrote these diagrams and a Chinese engineer who spoke Pig Russian and Engrish translated them and wrote these diagrams. I have the wiring diagrams off of here and the EVTM and I still sometimes get a headache trying to figure out where a wiring is coming and going to.
    Lol!!!

    I did the same thing and then got annoyed that neither of them matched either. I ended up ditching the schematics I got from here and solely used the EVTM, which I found to be the closest.

    Dang engineers....
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #128
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Does anyone know what the abbreviation T/O means in the EVTM? I see it list connections and splices for example near the headlight T/O or near T/O ground.
    T/0

    Whateva....

    Wire Wing.

    Take Oway.

    Its an Enkrish joke, Gwass Hopper....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E10vJKMhePo

    (A pawody of United States of Whatever by Liam Lynch from 2003.)

    Take Oway Dis Cup of Suffewing fwom me, Fow Eva Wittle Wabbit...

  4. #129
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I wish someone would take oway the idea I had of doing this about 2 years ago! I could be driving this right now!!!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  5. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    I wish someone would take oway the idea I had of doing this about 2 years ago! I could be driving this right now!!!
    I hear that. I could be enjoying my simple stock engine/drivetrain/dash swap right now.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #131

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    I wish someone would take oway the idea I had of doing this about 2 years ago! I could be driving this right now!!!
    Lol, yeah.......

  7. #132
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Default Let there be ROCK! No....Light....let there be light!!!!

    It seems the technical difficulties are over because this site comes up now.

    So I got my LED headlights wired up. I am certain I won't like them when I actually drive it, but they look bright as hell. I just know that looks on LED's are deceiving. But I made 2 new harness and connected to my relays in my fuse box. They are 16 gauge wires, which is fine for LED...I just don't know if that's enough if I got back to halogens, but the factory harness is 16 gauge or so it appears to me.

    I had fun when I hooked everything up and temporarily grounded everything to test. I pull the switch. Nothing. WTF? Oh yeah, the coils of the relays are fused and I put the fuses in.

    Attempt #2: Nothing. Oh yeah, the battery side of the relays are FUSED and no FUSES. Install Fuses. The whole time, I am thinking, there's no markers or turn signals lighting up. OH YEAH< there's no lights in the front of the car other than the headlights sitting on the bumper cover. What a dumb butt!

    Attempt #3: Let there be light and it was good! These LED's have a center bar like a Halo thing, so I have the high beams wired and will come on with the key on. All of the headlights take 3 prong plugs. I had all new ones, but couldn't use the 2 prong ones so I reused the originals for the high beams. The lights have a wire that turns on the bottom half (low beam) and a wire that turns on the whole bulb...plus one wire for the Halo. I only wired the high beams for high beams. The lows turn off. I may wire them so they stay on with the high beams, but it's not like I plan on working the night shift at Uber driving this thing. Maybe to find the return road at Friday night test n tune.

    When I was done testing I cut all the temp grounds loose and loomed up my 2 headlight harnesses together using that nifty braided split loom. I am going to get some DEI heat shield stuff...it's a sleeve that has velcro and wrap this harness, the power feed to the fuse box harness and the fan harness and tuck them up above the condenser. I don't know how hot it gets or how much heat that braided stuff can take but I am not taking a chance!

    I also got my rear defrost lead hot and I need to run a lead for my fuel pump and the relay for my gauges. I need to decide if I am trying to get it running again on the C950 or the HP. I already know if I am doing all this work and making it neat, I just need to rip ALL of the old stuff out and put the HP in and get it wired up. So that's the plan....get the HP efi and the MSD box wired up too. And then....I could start the car. If I didn't change ECU systems, I could probably have it running in an afternoon, but I must resist the urge to just get done with it and do it right.


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    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  8. #133

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    Your a great big stud muffin Drew, with LED lights, sure. But a stud muffin nonetheless

  9. #134
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Takes one to know one!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  10. #135
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Well, damn it all to hell. MSU lost to Kentucky last night. I had a bad feeling about that. Oh well, I messed around a little in the garage yesterday. I must be about the slowest person working on a project. I just looked back thru this thread and I am not really not that much more done than 2 years ago!!!

    Oh well. I bought some cheap foglights off of Ebay to replace the Marchals. They were in decent shape, but no reason to let them get broken or something. So I pulled them and the wiring harness out to list on here for sale.

    I mounted the Grote (I kept thinking...I am Groot) fogliights. Halogens and bright. They sit maybe a half inch higher on their mounts than the Marchals, but I'll live with it. They have regular weatherpack connectors so I got to finally break out my weather pack kit and make 2 connectors to make a foglight harness.

    It's only about 12 inches long because the foglights have very long harnesses on them. I then spliced into the center of the harness to make a T/O (TAPE OUT , as I have learned) branch to go to the fog light harness. I also pulled the foglight power wire out of the bundle that goes to the passenger side and will tuck it up under the drivers fender. That bundle going across the firewall is getting SMALLER!!

    Today's goal is to wire up the MSD. I am trying to decide if I am cutting ANOTHER hole in the fender well to route the MSD wiring behind the fender to the fuse box or what. Decisions decisions.



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    Last edited by droopie85gt; 09-23-2018 at 10:38 AM.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  11. #136
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Ok, when you are doing something like this and verifying each circuit....in order to verify that circuit you have to remember to put the DANG FUSE in for that circuit. Let's back track.

    Today I decided it would just be easier to remove the ds fender to make sure I get the wires routed out of the way and give me a LOT better access to the front of the fender apron right behind the head lights. I put a stud thru to make a ground point. I sanded both sides of the apron down and liberally applied dielectric grease. I put ground wires into ring terminals and heat shrink and put them on the stud.

    So let's check the wiring outcome by playing baseball, shall we?

    I decided ok, let's test this before I go into routing and putting the wires into some loom. Headlights, low beams come on, flick the dimmer, nothing....by nothing I mean no high beams and low beams go out. I mess around checking things and realized I never tightened the grounds on the stud. Strike 1.

    I try again, same thing. I check for voltage. I change relays, I check fuses. I get to tracing wires and the wire for the 2 headlight relays coil ground is sitting on the floor. Strike 2.

    I attach a terminal and attach the coil ground to my stud. Low beams, check, high beams check. Single to left!

    How about turn signals. Check! Flashers? Check! Single up the middle.

    Marker lights. Check! But only the sides....the turn signal markers aren't working. Hard hit to 3rd, but runner forced out. 1 and 2nd 1 out.

    Start to check fuses and waste 10 minutes before saying, let's consult the EVTM, runner on 1st picked off. 2 outs.

    How can this be....the side markers and ts markers come off the same wire. Hold on, hmm, the ds looks like it has a burned filament. Got the volt meter...12.3 volts. Check the ps...yep TWO blown turn signal bulbs! I've dropped them and knocked them around so much I am not surprised they aren't physically broken. On top of that one is clear one is amber. Intentional Walk

    Alright. Now it's time to score or end the inning.

    Foglights. Nothing. Strike 1. Check the evtm and see which fusible link they were. Trace that wire to the fuse box thinking..aha, another fuse I forgot. Nope there's a good fuse. Strike 2.

    Check to make certain I wired the power wire to my foglight harness, yep. Full count.

    Remember that the fog light switch was kinda 'picky' about where it was actually on when you moved it, from last time I was driving it 3 years ago. So here's the pay off pitch. Strike 3 game over or a walk off double to left center???



    I firmly operated the foglight switch off and on about 10 times and could hear the relay start to click. Voila, foglights. Game over, I win today!!



    I guess I need to figure out if it is the fog-light switch or relay being picky. But that game is not on the current schedule.


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    Last edited by droopie85gt; 09-30-2018 at 04:59 PM.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  12. #137
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    That was funny stuff! Even more so that you did it on the last day of baseball season!
    '85 GT

  13. #138
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Dang...I didn't even realize that. Now is about the only time I will watch more than 10 minutes of a baseball game (except if Miss State is in the NCAA or CWS).

    It made for a better story than me saying I was so excited to try everything out, I couldn't remember to connect all of the ground wires and put ALL of the fuses in.


    I also thought about it and think the turn signal filaments burned out because they were grounding the headlights somehow. I'll find out soon enough when I get new bulbs!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  14. #139
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Dang...I didn't even realize that. Now is about the only time I will watch more than 10 minutes of a baseball game (except if Miss State is in the NCAA or CWS).

    It made for a better story than me saying I was so excited to try everything out, I couldn't remember to connect all of the ground wires and put ALL of the fuses in.


    I also thought about it and think the turn signal filaments burned out because they were grounding the headlights somehow. I'll find out soon enough when I get new bulbs!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  15. #140
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    When it's 100 degrees out, I am dying to work on the car. When it's 70 out, I just don't feel like it.

    I did get some goodies this week. Some 1.5x reader safety glasses. Who knew about these things? I do now. Now I don't have to worry about my $250 prescription glasses when I have to do some cutting.

    I got a MSD power filter and mounted that up yesterday. I got a couple of 4 pin weather pack connectors to replace the 8 pin connector underhood where the engine harness would plug in.

    I also found out about 'solder seals' this week. Bought some and realized that they are inferior. They do solder and seal with just a heat gun, but it's a cold solder joint. I cut one open and although I couldn't pull it apart, when I cut the joint, I could easily pull wires strands from the center. The solder does not penetrate the wire braid. So that's a waste of money.

    I did get up and have to change the alternator on the step-sons 04 Suburban. That was easy.


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    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  16. #141
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    WOW...I am a lazy ass. Finally gotten around to doing some more wiring work:

    Back to some piddling. Saturday and Sunday I spent at least 3 hours all told looking over my wiring mess and trying to make heads and tails of the factory stuff. I poured over the factory wiring diagrams AND the EVTM. I found a little notebook to finally WRITE DOWN the what's what and who's who under the hood. After I wrote it down, I started thumbing thru the book and found TWO other pages with the same oo: written down.

    So I have short/long term memory loss I guess. BUT, all 3 say the same things. So at least I am consistent in reading the wiring diagrams, even if I am wrong.

    I did find one big boo boo that would have had me cussing more in 30 minutes than Sam Jackson did in all of Pulp Fiction.

    The main underhood connector for the engine harness is all mangled up. I bought a repair piece, but the engine side of the connector is not much better. So I bought weather pack connectors and will put this in the fenderwell. When tracing wires I was totally thrown off by the blue/green dot wire for the low oil sender being where the coil + is. Which on one of my note pages I had noted that when I removed the Duraspark and wired the TFI into the Holley C950, the existing coil + was all weather checked and cracked. Since I had swapped to a Canton pan, I didn't need the low oil sender, so I de-pinned it and used that for the coil +. Not the boo boo though. The chassis side of the connector is missing the coil - or tach feed. WTF?

    I looked and looked...then thought, I de-pinned and removed a lot of stuff with the TSAD harness...sure enough the green/yellow dots wire I am looking for is in there and cut off. No big deal. I am running aftermarket gauges and will just run a new wire to the tach.

    Where the cussing comes in, is if I hadn't found that and just wired the tach of the MSD into the engine side of the harness. No tach signal, no injector firing. So I would have been stumped trying to figure out why that pig won't fire. I'd have dropped the tank, checked the pump, the pump relay, jumpered the pump on and still no squirty because no tach signal. So YAY me.
    I also replaced the factory temp sender in the heater rail with a temp switch that comes on at 198 I think. I wired it to trigger my passenger side fan. The holley HP will trigger the driver side. I'll also wire one of these fans to come on with the A/C, if I ever get far enough to actually figure out how to wire the A/C back up, since I removed the TSAD. The sending unit is a bit longer than the Ferd piece and I was worried it would bottom out, but careful measurements with my finger on a piece of shrink wrap, precisely told me it was good!!!

    AND I remembered the Nordskog temp gauge acts up and I bought a new sender for it years ago...so I found it and swapped it out. I even soldered in the ignition noise filter with a factory connector! At this rate, if I solder 3 wires a weekend, I can have it running in August.Name:  IMG_20190330_163636.jpg
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    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  17. #142
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    Considering the level you are working to and some of the descriptive vernacular used, am I safe to assume you are an aircraft maintenance technician?

    The wiring, as well as the rest of the '85, looks great!
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  18. #143
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Nope. I worked on copiers for 25 years and am a war bird fan. Matter of fact I spent 4.5 hours today exploring the Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  19. #144
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    I am currently IN Pensacola, living and working. I was stationed in Pensacola in 1997-98......
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  20. #145

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    Very nice work on those headlights! Sub'd!

  21. #146
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86GT2go View Post
    I am currently IN Pensacola, living and working. I was stationed in Pensacola in 1997-98......
    Well, small world. I was in Pensacola at 8 this morning and in Memphis by 4. My wife's sister and mom moved to Lilian, AL 2 years ago. My wife gets her mom (she has a bit of dementia) every now and then to give her sister a break. They usually meet somewhere between West Point and Meridian to do the 'swap' but we went down and had some fun Friday and Saturday.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  22. #147
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I'm at a crossroad. My brother and I really want to get back into bracket racing. Of course, he wants to relive the glory days of 92-97 and build another Buick with the stroker kit we bought but never used. I think it makes a 455 into a 496. We had a 83 Regal but it was boat anchor. I said if we do it, it should be a 2400-2600 lb car. But, I said in the meantime I have this 85 and some decent parts already. But, even though it needs a lot of work, it would be a shame to do something that makes it an all out drag car.

    SO I am entertaining the thought of trading it for a decent roller or other complete but un-noteworthy fox. It would prob require some money on top to make it worth my while. So, I think for now, I am just finishing the wiring and keeping the Holley Commander950 in it and saving the HP for another project.

    I guess when it is running again, I'll put it up for sale.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  23. #148
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    It's only taken 3 months, but I have decided that we definitely want to play at the race track again. I now have some direction. I am going to get the wiring done, with the Holley Commander EFI still in it. And when it is running, try to sell it or trade it for a manual window rolling chassis Fox. If that doesn't work out, by winter (I move in periods of months...lol) I may just part it out and use this car. It's so far down the road already of not being stock, I'll probably never get anything resembling my money out of it.

    Short story, if you have a roller low option Fox and want to work out some sort of trade...I've got too much good stuff in mine to trade straight up, but I'll make it a great deal.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  24. #149
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I also have a **** ton of parts to go with it...depending on the price. I have a 351 shortblock, low mile rebuilt (less than 3000) with cast pistons, Comp 282HR cam, link bar roller lifters, and just odds and ends of crap everywhere. I'll probably start listing up a lot of the parts soon.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  25. #150
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Ughh. I thought it would be good to take off the billet low alt mount and sold it. So I thought, I should paint the stock alt bracket and alt black. Just like I started painting everything under the hood black. Turned out great, but it just shows has nasty the water pump, crank, a/c and power steering pulleys are!
    At least my polished belt tensioner looks nice.

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    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

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