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  1. #26

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    I'll test the ECT this weekend when I replace the stat. Then report back.
    Toilets and Stangs in the same post? Guess it all comes out in the end.

  2. #27

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    Ready for this one?

    New correct Ford thermostat and Fel-Pro thermo gasket. Properly installed and sealed. New Motorcraft coolant filled up and system purged of air. Tested today and thermostat STILL does not open within five minutes. Car nearly overheated AGAIN. Now coolant runs out the upper rad hose AND the lower hose. Water pump decided to die? ANYONE? At this point I have no idea what to do about the heating and cooling problems. Car will sit for some time. I will waste no more money on it. Ideas are welcome but no preaching please. I'm guessing total tear down and rebuild. Maybe the bow tie boys are right.

    Shouldn't the GD thermo open within five minutes? Blockage somewhere? Shotgun the thing? Anyone?

  3. #28

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    UPDATE:
    Drained the cooling system and rechecked the hoses. Reattached hoses. Refilled radiator to full. System only takes in about two gallons of coolant. Started and ran the engine. Stat opened at 8 minutes. Temp gauge pegged at H for four minutes through eight minutes. Had to put the cap on as coolant ran out before stat opened. Seems like there is quite a bit of air in the system. Had the car jacked up as well.

    What I need is a better method to purge the air before I crack the block. How did the factory do this thousands of times a year without a hitch?

    Car didn't leak but shows full on the overflow bottle. I'll check it tonight in about three hours.

  4. #29

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    Yikes.

  5. #30

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    Kept at it all week. Ran car with heater on. Added a small amount of coolant each time to the radiator. Car takes between 8 and 11 minutes to open the thermostat. Today was day three or four. Didn't add any coolant as rad was still full and over flow was just below full hot. After 12 minutes I shut it off and almost right away coolant drips from the water pump inlet where the hose connects. Maybe need to tighten the hose, don't know. Thought it was on tight before.

    Looks like time for another thermostat, water pump, hoses, maybe even send the rad away to be checked. I think its possessed. Can't drive it or it may overheat. Tired of spending money on something I can't use. Any ideas? Plus it only has 9 quarts in it. Book says it takes 13. Go figure.

    Maybe time to sell.

  6. #31

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    Well, it can really only be blockage somewhere right? If I were you I would disconnect the hoses and hook the faucet up to the upper and turn it on full blast, see if it comes out as it should in the lower (passing through the engine, of course the thermostat will have to be removed). Rinse and repeat with the radiator, except i would block the lower and measure exactly how much it is able to take as well.
    You have the right water pump? Reversed rotation for a serpentine.

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    718

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    I would get a flush kit and flush the system out with the water hose and then I would change out the thermostat again. I changed my thermostat last weekend because the housing was seeping and had no problem getting the air out of the system. And this NAPA thermostat I got did not have the little hole to help bleed the air.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

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    Take the thermostat back out. Test it in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens.

    Back flush the system as previously suggested. Also make sure water easily flows through the radiator.

    Verify the fan clutch and fan shroud and fan are in good shape.

    There is an aftermarket thermostat housing that has an Allen bolt in the top. Used for letting air escape at the highest point on the motor. The work decent but not entirely necessary if you know what you are doing.

    If you have a compressor, one thing that I've done before is let all the air out of the passenger rear tire to rotate the body so the left front is the highest point then jack the front end up like I mean it.

    Jack as high as a decent floor jack will go, put it on jackstands, put a block under the lift head on the jack and go up some more. Raise it like you mean it. Get the radiator fill to be the highest part and make sure it is higher than the thermostat housing.

    Make sure the overflow tank and line are good and securely attach to the overflow to the radiator. Fill the overflow tank to full hot with 50/50 and fill the system with 50/50. Start and let it run 2-3 minutes.

    Have a buddy raise the engine RPM to 2500-3000 and hold it. Fill the radiator up entirely and and cap it before lowering the RPM.

    Btw - the failsafe thermostats are junk. They do t work right.

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