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  1. #1276
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    I was sanding down the center of the firewall because I hadn't glazed it after doing the mud work.

    For some reason I felt those four ribs in the center. They all had small dings and knicks in them. I couldn't stand it, sooooooAttachment 123008

    I threw some mud at itAttachment 123009

    Then sanded that, glazed it and etch primered it.Attachment 123010

    Good enough. I'm going to move to the right side of the firewall/cowl area next. Then to the right frame rail and after that, weld in the lower radiator support and then primer with a nice high build primer.
    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Everything is super duper easy from the couch. The pros always make it look quick and easy.
    I agree. You are making such quick work of this...in your garage...after work! Can you provide some insight into your mud and sanding techniques and tools? When do you remove excess filler material prior to hardening and with what? Also did you do the ribbed area by hand or with rounded blocks? Man, I swear I'm hours (or days) sanding and re-mudding and sanding and repeating...You make it look so, so easy �� Then you mix up some primer and a quick spray...and clean the gun and on and on. I admire your tenacity and drive!

  2. #1277

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I agree. You are making such quick work of this...in your garage...after work! Can you provide some insight into your mud and sanding techniques and tools? When do you remove excess filler material prior to hardening and with what? Also did you do the ribbed area by hand or with rounded blocks? Man, I swear I'm hours (or days) sanding and re-mudding and sanding and repeating...You make it look so, so easy �� Then you mix up some primer and a quick spray...and clean the gun and on and on. I admire your tenacity and drive!
    Tools? Let's see, now just speaking of doing the mud work in the engine bay. Not the tools I use for the outside of the body.

    In the instance of these ribs I used 50 grit 3" discs to remove the old paint and to provide deep enough scoring to hold onto the bondo.

    In that second picture that shows the mud spread out, it's a little more sloppy than I usually spread it. I was "spreading in anger" last night. Someone irritated me pretty decently and I didn't want to take it out on anyone, so I made a mess there. lol

    As long as you press in the initial coat by kind of a squeegee process into all the areas your wanting to cover, it's ok to be sloppy. It just gives you more opportunity to spend time sanding when you do it like that.

    In an area like those ribs I did use a shorter 6" block, though it's only just so helpful due to the factory wrinkles in the firewall. Had I wanted to really go nuts, I would have used a hammer and dolly to straighten out the wrinkles in the metal first. I spread it over a larger area than the ribs simply because there are several dimples along that area similar to what was up on the cowl panel.

    Speaking of those dimples, I used a piece of folded up 40 grit sandpaper to sand down into them. I could have welded them up with a quick spot weld as well.

    After that initial spread of mud I used another piece of that 40 grit on the six inch block to knock off the "slag"(meaning the high rough areas). I do this at the stage when the mud isn't totally hardened. It's really at the stage where the bondo will tear if you tried to block it too soon. It's much easier to do this now rather than when the mud is completely hardened. It took all of 30 seconds to have it roughed in and ready to be blocked with 80g.

    I do realize this area will hardly be noticed once the engine is in. So in this case I just wanted smooth, not necessarily straight. The ribs themselves are straight, but the surrounding metal is just smooth.

    After the 40g knockdown I used 80g on the block to sand out the initial mud coating. The mud stil isn't at a fully hardened stage yet, but it is hard enough that it doesn't tear when blocking. I could wait till it's fully hardened, it just takes longer to smooth it out then.

    The ribs were easy to block with a straight block, you just need to be able to smoothly rotate it while blocking between the transitions of angle of the metal.

    A side note, it's always good to feather out the edges of the mud before doing the actual straightening. If you come back after you've straightened your focus area and smooth out the edges, you'll generally tweak the straightening work you've done and will end up spreading more mud just to smooth what you wanted to smooth.

    I'll use a guide coat when I'm blocking an area I want to seriously have straight. I won't put that on until I'm getting somewhat close to where I want the repair to be. This area of the firewall didn't get that treatment. I really just wanted to fill in the tiny wrinkles, pits and dimples in that area. I figured I would be pissed at myself for not doing that when I have the car at the shop shooting that pretty green in the engine bay.

    One coat of regular mud is all this area needed to achieve the results I wanted. In other areas I've needed to go back and put a second coat and sometimes a third coat on smaller areas that need special attention.

    Once I was satisfied with this stage and there were no other areas that needed filling, I mixed some glaze and spread a squeeze coat of it over the entire repair area. I say squeeze coat because that's what you do with this. You squeeze it on with pressure. It's designed to fill pinholes and other small voids, in addition the heavier 80g scratches. Speaking of that, you don't want to primer over as heavy of a grit as 80. The primer will die back revealing the heavy scratches weeks and months down the road after you believe your repair is done and nice looking.

    This time around I used a piece of 80g to do the same thing I did with the 40g in the previous step. I knocked down the slag from the glaze. This literally takes seconds. Then I used 180 to block out the glaze. This won't take long since you'll spread such a thin coat of the glaze.

    I do use other smaller blocks as well to get into the tight areas, and even by hand as well.

    A side note, if you want a great little block kit, get a Durablock set. They're pretty cheap priced and are really nice blocks.

    No cleaning guns here yet, the primer I'm spraying over the bare mud and metal is just a rattle can of etch primer. I think I'm using an SEM product.

    I'm not using it for filling like a regular high build primer, it's merely to protect the bondo and bare metal from the moisture in the air until I can spray the high build stuff. Once all of the mud work is done in the engine bay and I have the rest of the radiator support welded on I'll go back over everything with a quick scuffing of 240g, (quick being relative, it'll probably take me a couple hours to sand everything at that stage) mask and then spray the good primer. At that stage I'll be using one of my paint guns.

    I'll show you the stuff I use at that stage.

  3. #1278
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I spent half the day Sunday just block sanding the hood on my 68 mustang. Now I have to respray some spots that needed some glazing.

  4. #1279

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    I spent half the day Sunday just block sanding the hood on my 68 mustang. Now I have to respray some spots that needed some glazing.
    I dig that man, do you remember when I was fixing my hood? I spent a long time on that panel.

  5. #1280
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    I dig that man, do you remember when I was fixing my hood? I spent a long time on that panel.
    Oh yeah. I remember.

  6. #1281

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    I got a new package today!Name:  IMG_4628.jpg
Views: 280
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    Its my MM sfc's. Do you see the rusty 1x1 tubing next to the box? That'll be my ladder frame support. I'm going to take them to work and strip the rust off and put some decent etch paint on them.

    I intend to seal up the ends of the tubes after I have them measured and fitted, I mean on the jacking rail portions. I'll weld up the ends similarly to the MM sfc's.

    So, i've got my weekend planned. I hope to have the sfc's installed and the floorpan after that. I don't believe I can install the ladder bracing until after the floorpan is in place.

    I'm not doing much tonight. My youngest boy went off to college today and I'm being a little whiny baby because I miss him. Tomorrow I'll be back after the engine bay.

  7. #1282
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    When my son went off to college , I was on the fence with the I miss him thing .
    He texted me and said "Pops , whiney I'd for Mom , you have big boy panties , so sick it up , I will be fine . You taught me a lot , whether you know it or not "
    You will be fine Dave .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  8. #1283

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    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    When my son went off to college , I was on the fence with the I miss him thing .
    He texted me and said "Pops , whiney I'd for Mom , you have big boy panties , so sick it up , I will be fine . You taught me a lot , whether you know it or not "
    You will be fine Dave .
    Oh I know.

    Out of my five kids, this one is the most like me. I don't have to explain things to him, he gets me.

    I'm not dying or anything, just living with life's little ups and downs. Only one left to get on her way.

    Anyhow, tonight I'll be back after the engine bay. I may post a picture of a cleaned up 1x1 steel tube today for excitement,lol.

  9. #1284

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    Back to work. SFC's today.

    I moved the jack stands, swept the floor clean and laid down to look over the sub frame rails. They were very dirty, surprise!

    I spent the next hour or so cleaning them, the left side looked like it took a tar bath. A scraper, some laquer thinner and hot soapy water cleaned them up nicely.

    I ground away pretty much all the paint on the subframes in preparation for welding, plus it was just all scratched up and ugly too.

    Then I fitted them up to see what I had. The right one was super easy, the left one needed a little persuasion. NBD though.Name:  IMG_4632.jpg
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    BTW, it is easier to put these on when you remove the floorpan, I recommend this procedure.Name:  IMG_4640.jpg
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    So I got the right one welded in.Name:  IMG_4641.jpg
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    Then the left.Name:  IMG_4646.jpg
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    Dressed the welds and stood up on them and hopped, Lol. Even at this stage of the build they make the body so much stronger.Name:  IMG_4649.jpg
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  10. #1285

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    Dave, I've been waiting all day for this update

  11. #1286

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    This is quite a project, Dave. Been enjoying following your progress. Looking great. Keep it up.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  12. #1287
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    No good Dave. I didn't notice it was you WITHOUT the Box on your head....



    ROBH's take over der werlt!



    The hard tail IRS will be easy.

  13. #1288

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    The hard tail IRS will be easy.
    I sure hope you're right about that one Dean.

    I won't do the hardtail until next time I get to work on Booger. I need to finish up what I'm doing on him within the next two to three weeks so my wife can get the garage back for the winter. I'm just going to do a quick mount for now.

    Next spring is when I'll do the suspension. The whole front end will be Maximum Motorsports. I'll tear down the IRS and put in a bushing set, stronger diff cover, and powder coat the frame. I'd like coilovers on the rear then as well, we'll see how the money flows at that time. Obviously suspension won't take that long, so I'll get the body done too and make the whole thing green at that stage.

    Today I mess with the fitting of the new floorpan. Then those fourty thousand spot welds that hold it down, lol.

  14. #1289

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    How do you fit a full floorpan into a fox body? Like this.Name:  IMG_4652.jpg
Views: 207
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    I drilled thirty holes on each side of the pan for spot welding first, it was too early to do the noisy stuff. Then I worked on the cabin a bit. I ground down all the weld areas to clean bare metal and coated those areas with my weld through primer.Name:  IMG_4653.jpg
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    By the time I was finished with that it was late enough to be noisy, so I broke out the die grinder and cut an inch off the front of the pan.Name:  IMG_4654.jpg
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    The next thing i did was to slide the pan in for a final fitment. I will need to pull it back out after this fitment so I can drill the holes for the spotwelds on the subframe rails and the front edge of the pan.Name:  IMG_4655.jpg
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    What am I doing right now you might ask? I'm taking a little brake, just me and Sam.Name:  image.jpg
Views: 203
Size:  82.0 KB

  15. #1290
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Paraphrasing Willie Joe Namath: "There are two occasions in which I drink; when I'm with people and when I'm with Sam."

    Mike

  16. #1291

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    So a laid down under the vehicle and drew an outline of the subframe rails. Then I plucked the pan back out and marked all of the spots I needed to drill. Name:  IMG_4657.jpg
Views: 199
Size:  70.3 KBThen I spent awhile drilling spotweld holes, Lots and lots of holes. Fact is, there are 204 total spotwelds just for the floorpan.Name:  IMG_4659.jpg
Views: 202
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    While I was there I also finally marked the eb handle area to drill and weld in a couple nuts for the handle.

    I'm pooped now so I'm stopping. Tomorrow night I'll take care of the eb and put the floorpan back in the car. Hopefully I'll get a bunch of those spotwelds done, I'm not sure if I'll get them all though.

    As a side note, once I had the pan trimmed the firewall side of the trans tunnel is shaped slightly different than my firewall. It'll be an easy modification, but just as a note for anyone else that'll do this.

  17. #1292
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Appreciate you sharing your work with us here. I dont plan on doing this type of work anytime soon but do really enjoy seeing some of the steps involved. Its a lot of fun to watch it take place/shape.

    Let say your windshield was still installed. Any other way to shoehorn the full floor pan into the car? If you had a hatch maybe it would fit through there? BUT you have a notch back. Just curious.

  18. #1293

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Appreciate you sharing your work with us here. I dont plan on doing this type of work anytime soon but do really enjoy seeing some of the steps involved. Its a lot of fun to watch it take place/shape.

    Let say your windshield was still installed. Any other way to shoehorn the full floor pan into the car? If you had a hatch maybe it would fit through there? BUT you have a notch back. Just curious.
    IDK, I assume with the t-tops I could have angled it in there through the door opening. The first idea worked so I stopped thinking at that stage, lol.

  19. #1294
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looking Good!

    I might be catching up with work at the shop, so hoping maybe have some spare time to work on the RS to do the same floor work. But WAIT you have just done it, so you could do it much faster than I could, so how about gas $$ and a case of Samuel Adams! Keep up the good work!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #1295

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Looking Good!

    I might be catching up with work at the shop, so hoping maybe have some spare time to work on the RS to do the same floor work. But WAIT you have just done it, so you could do it much faster than I could, so how about gas $$ and a case of Samuel Adams! Keep up the good work!
    Thanks Trey, it'll take much better beer than SA to get me there. lol

  21. #1296

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    IDK, I assume with the t-tops I could have angled it in there through the door opening. The first idea worked so I stopped thinking at that stage, lol



    It was in the last place I looked.... or I found it right away, but then I kept looking.- that one cracks me up. Just like ; a horse walks into a bar...

  22. #1297
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thanks Trey, it'll take much better beer than SA to get me there. lol
    Wow I offer the man what he's drinking and that's not good enough.

    I thought we were friends! I see where I rate . . . . That's fine I will do it myself! And now its ON! I will finish my RS and have it on the road before Booger!!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  23. #1298
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Wow I offer the man what he's drinking and that's not good enough.

    I thought we were friends! I see where I rate . . . . That's fine I will do it myself! And now its ON! I will finish my RS and have it on the road before Booger!!
    HA! We'll believe that when we see it.

  24. #1299

    Default You Know.....Sometimes......

    I started the evening off welding in the eb handle "modification".Name:  IMG_4660.jpg
Views: 156
Size:  48.8 KB I know, it's a couple nuts welded in at a little different location.......but I "modified" the floorpan.....that makes me WAY cooler now, lol. Notice the cool new color for my etch primer, it's green........coincidence?........or was it ALIENS!!!!!

    Just to prove it worked, here it is with the eb handle mounted, notice how nicely my spot weld holes line up.Name:  IMG_4661.jpg
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    I also need to consider the seat braces provided to me by Maximum Motorsports, and that beer too I suppose.Name:  IMG_4662.jpg
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    I got them welded in after being sure my floorpan was where I wanted it.Name:  IMG_4663.jpg
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    It's just too late for a work night to do more. So tomorrow night I need to mark the weld areas through all of those little holes I've created and lift up the floorpan a little to grind off the weld spots (now that I have that nifty handle in the middle of the pan). THEN, by Grypthors Hammer! I shall spotweld far into the night!

    I really want to get after the ladder bar system this week too.

  25. #1300

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