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  1. #1026

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post

    As for the rivets First and foremost make sure you are using an aluminum rivet. Steel Rivets are too strong and destroy the panel. Second if you can get the aluminum mandrel that helps too. Either way, good luck!
    This is the trick. When I did the cover swap on mine, I was smart enough to try out the rivets on the 2 piece panel and I’m glad I did as the steel ones destroyed it. It took me another 2 days to find aluminum rivets here in Omaha, but it was the ticket. Yes... I tried them on the junk panel first also, just in case.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #1027

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    Quote Originally Posted by Basin Motorsports View Post
    Are you saying this isn't subtle? Maier is building new 1.5" and 3" molds for the Fox flares. They have seen a surge in requests and purchases in the last few months.

    Attachment 120614

    Attachment 120615
    new molds you say? You're telling me I could have that phat look without weeks worth of fiber-glassing? If Maier is seeing this, HMU.

  3. #1028
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    new molds you say? You're telling me I could have that phat look without weeks worth of fiber-glassing? If Maier is seeing this, HMU.
    The question here is what are the new molds made from. If from the same original fenders and quarters than the fit will not be any different than the originals poor quality that required hours of body work. If they actually pull molds off finished parts that have been massaged and worked to fit well, then the new parts may actually fit well.

    Don't get me wrong, I still like the flares, just wish they overall fit and finish was more like Cervini's products is what I am saying.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  4. #1029

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The question here is what are the new molds made from. If from the same original fenders and quarters than the fit will not be any different than the originals poor quality that required hours of body work. If they actually pull molds off finished parts that have been massaged and worked to fit well, then the new parts may actually fit well.

    Don't get me wrong, I still like the flares, just wish they overall fit and finish was more like Cervini's products is what I am saying.
    Well, they didn't ask for mine to pull molds from, so they are probably remaking the molds off parts they had. I have just seen a teaser picture on their Facebook page. As they said on their page, "Being Human means saying your were wrong and making an effort to make good. For some reason our 3" FOX BODY front fenders have been off in the fit, form & function and I am sorry we took as long as we did to test fit it. I knew we had issues with the 1.5" fender and we made NEW MOLDS for those. I thought the 3" fenders were reasonably close and this last week we looked and they were NOT great. So, we have NEW molds coming NOW!! Please email me directly if you have some of the 3" fenders, and you are unhappy with the end result. Let me evaluate your challenges and try to do something to help."

    Until someone gets parts from their new molds, the world won't know how they fit. If they fit better, then they have at least made a better product. If someone gets a set and needs to modify them heavily like I did, they at least have a road map of what to do to get them close. I didn't have that, so I spent a lot of time trying different things whittling down the possibilities of fixes before starting to cut them up. I would expect to have to do some work, but hopefully not to the extent that I did.

  5. #1030
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basin Motorsports View Post
    Well, they didn't ask for mine to pull molds from, so they are probably remaking the molds off parts they had. I have just seen a teaser picture on their Facebook page. As they said on their page, "Being Human means saying your were wrong and making an effort to make good. For some reason our 3" FOX BODY front fenders have been off in the fit, form & function and I am sorry we took as long as we did to test fit it. I knew we had issues with the 1.5" fender and we made NEW MOLDS for those. I thought the 3" fenders were reasonably close and this last week we looked and they were NOT great. So, we have NEW molds coming NOW!! Please email me directly if you have some of the 3" fenders, and you are unhappy with the end result. Let me evaluate your challenges and try to do something to help."

    Until someone gets parts from their new molds, the world won't know how they fit. If they fit better, then they have at least made a better product. If someone gets a set and needs to modify them heavily like I did, they at least have a road map of what to do to get them close. I didn't have that, so I spent a lot of time trying different things whittling down the possibilities of fixes before starting to cut them up. I would expect to have to do some work, but hopefully not to the extent that I did.
    Sounds like they are making an effort which is appreciated. I actually like many of Maier's parts, but the overall fit and finish has always been an issue for me, especially at the current prices.

    Unfortunately due to the nature of fiberglass and the factory tolerances of the Fox bodies, I fully expect to do some massaging and tweaking to make things fit well and look "Right" but having to completely reshape a part is a bit much IMHO. Almost makes me want to order a set of the 1.5" quarters to match my front fenders, but that just isn't in the budget right now. Maybe by the time I get home to CO I might be able to afford them.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  6. #1031

    Default New Things

    So I've shown y'all the new stuff I've already got.Here's the latest, Scott Rod engine bay panelsName:  IMG_4073.jpg
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Size:  76.6 KBI also bought a nice set of body shaping hammers and a good leather bag to start shaping my quarters.Name:  IMG_4072.jpg
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Size:  107.2 KBI really wanted an english wheel, a bead roller and a planishing hammer........Uhm.......no. I want a Bugatti as well, oh well......

    I'm still waiting on a Team Z tubular lower radiator support as the last piece of this summers work. I dropped off the replacement radiator support and my headlight buckets with the sandblaster. I'll pick them up on monday. I need to smooth the top of the radiator support here this week.

    I've been playing with my plasma cutter. I had an extra '83 convertible door that was wasted with rot in the lower jamb area. I cut off the outer panel to use in the making of my extended quarters. I saved the smalls off the door, glass, mirror, mirror trim and so forth to put in my 'just in case' stash.Name:  IMG_0831.jpg
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    BTW, I ordered a complete front light set for a 4i from LMR. It's a very nice set. There are sets of complete pads and adjusters and springs for each light. Two things I wish they would add. The screws for the light rings and the housings for the side marker lamps.

  7. #1032
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Side Marker lamp brackets:

    https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...9573-6242.html

    Headlight Retainer Rings:

    https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...5858-6239.html

    Headlight Retainer Ring Screws:

    OEM Type: https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...5861-6239.html

    Reproduction Type: https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...5688-6239.html

    Hope that helps! Looks like you have lots of cool toys for the Mustang.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  8. #1033

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    I know you decided to not use the 3.8 SC motor, but check this one out.



    Jess
    Currently own;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    Previously owned;
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  9. #1034

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang-junky View Post
    I know you decided to not use the 3.8 SC motor, but check this one out.



    Jess
    Wow! That is pretty amazing!

    Ironically for me though, i'm seeing that video today. The sc engine is in the back of my pick up right now and I'm driving to Dallas to get rid of it.

  10. #1035

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    Sorry I haven't been updating regularly. This is my first weekend off in three weeks.

    Side note, last weekend I finally got that '62 Impala painted. Woohoo, got that 800lb gorilla off my back.Name:  IMG_4177.jpg
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    I've done a couple small things. I got all the parts for my header panel in and put on. The LMR light kit is very nice though. It had everything for the headlights including new rings with screws.

    Then I put the bumper cover on and riveted it on. Turned out nice to me.Name:  IMG_4181.jpg
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    I also finally jammed my hood, next week I'll get the top shot.Name:  IMG_4184.jpg
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    This coming week I'm going to bring my new floor pan to work to etch primer and seal it to make life easier with the clean up after install.

    Hopefully by next weekend Booger will be in my garage. I'll probably start with the engine bay, install the new frame rail, radiator support, etc... I will smooth the engine bay at that time. Then on to the floorpan. SFC's last.

    I got a question for y'all. I would like to take out the t-top frame and have it sent off for powder coating. Beyond the 10 million rivets and welding in a couple braces for while it is out, is there anything to worry about? It would be good to have it out to be sure ALL of the rust is gone from the roof panel.

  11. #1036

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    Oooooo fresh paint; so nice! I'd love to have that someday.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #1037

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    I LOVE that color!! Looks great!!
    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide
    '83 GT hatch, currently under the knife

  13. #1038
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    I got a question for y'all. I would like to take out the t-top frame and have it sent off for powder coating. Beyond the 10 million rivets and welding in a couple braces for while it is out, is there anything to worry about? It would be good to have it out to be sure ALL of the rust is gone from the roof panel.
    Just my .02 for what it's worth. My plan with my 82 RS and my 82 GT is to remove all the trim pieces from the T-tops and have them powder coated in a matte/satin black. The actual T-roof structure itself I plan on spraying with a 2K Epoxy matte/satin black. This gives me the look and durability without the headaches and labor of removing the structure itself.

    I admit I like the new color, especially with the black trim it really helps the color "POP"!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  14. #1039

    Default

    Thanks for the positive vote on the color guys.

    i just spent the day in Dallas with Jonathan, he’s a member here, just not sure of his screen name. He has an ‘84 t-top coupe with an original 5.0 in it. He bought my sc engine for another project he has. Kenny’s Burgers is the place to go in Dallas, btw.

    he said there were a couple threads here that had guys removing the t-top brace. I’m going to have to look them up. I really want to do this. The roof rust goes up and underneath the bracing. I got to remove that rust.

    Hopefully next weekend you guys will see me having my car in my garage.

  15. #1040
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thanks for the positive vote on the color guys.

    i just spent the day in Dallas with Jonathan, heís a member here, just not sure of his screen name. He has an Ď84 t-top coupe with an original 5.0 in it. He bought my sc engine for another project he has. Kennyís Burgers is the place to go in Dallas, btw.

    he said there were a couple threads here that had guys removing the t-top brace. Iím going to have to look them up. I really want to do this. The roof rust goes up and underneath the bracing. I got to remove that rust.

    Hopefully next weekend you guys will see me having my car in my garage.
    WTH!? You should have come down to Round Rock! Oh well, I was working all weekend anyway!

    If you have to remove the brace for rust repair, I completely understand that. It's not too bad a job, just a bunch of rivets to drill out. I personally like to support the roof and keep everything in relative position, so I would recommend either fabbing a brace that runs from the top seat belt bolt to the floor or tranny tunnel. I have used both depending on the car and condition. If the floor is bad as I think you have mentioned, then you could use either the bolt holes for the transmission seal or just use a decent size bolt/screw and attach anywhere along the tunnel. Just helps keep anything from shifting after you remove the T-top structure. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  16. #1041

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    WTH!? You should have come down to Round Rock! Oh well, I was working all weekend anyway!

    If you have to remove the brace for rust repair, I completely understand that. It's not too bad a job, just a bunch of rivets to drill out. I personally like to support the roof and keep everything in relative position, so I would recommend either fabbing a brace that runs from the top seat belt bolt to the floor or tranny tunnel. I have used both depending on the car and condition. If the floor is bad as I think you have mentioned, then you could use either the bolt holes for the transmission seal or just use a decent size bolt/screw and attach anywhere along the tunnel. Just helps keep anything from shifting after you remove the T-top structure. Good Luck!
    Thanks Trey. Iíll take care of the t-top brace after I replace the floorpan an install a set of sfcís. Iím not sure of how much flex iíll
    need to worry about with no engine in the front and the rear out. Iíll still tack in some sort of bracing though. Iím thinking Iíll need to stretch between the front and back to get the brace off, doesnít it tuck the roof panel section into it?

    BTW, where is Round Rock?

  17. #1042

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thanks Trey. I’ll take care of the t-top brace after I replace the floorpan an install a set of sfc’s. I’m not sure of how much flex i’ll
    need to worry about with no engine in the front and the rear out. I’ll still tack in some sort of bracing though. I’m thinking I’ll need to stretch between the front and back to get the brace off, doesn’t it tuck the roof panel section into it?

    BTW, where is Round Rock?
    Yes, the car will have to be "opened" up a bit to get the brace out then back in. I was very nervous doing this when I installed the t-tops to my mustang. I had full length frame connectors, and it was surprising easy to get enough flex to fit the frame in place.

    Jess
    Currently own;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    Previously owned;
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  18. #1043

    Default

    Thanks Jess.

  19. #1044

    Default

    They were often called flexible flyers by the chassis shops for a reason

    Also beer can on wheels

    Flexible tire fryer

    unibendy

    cracked floor can

    etc

    but that’s part of what made them so quick compared to other cars back when they were new.


    Of course I saw some idiot out in a newer Camaro tonight. Drove like a complete moron. Tires up in smoke and fish tailing all over the place. Pretty sure there are 4 banger cars on here that would have completely embarrassed that thing.

  20. #1045
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thanks Trey. I’ll take care of the t-top brace after I replace the floorpan an install a set of sfc’s. I’m not sure of how much flex i’ll
    need to worry about with no engine in the front and the rear out. I’ll still tack in some sort of bracing though. I’m thinking I’ll need to stretch between the front and back to get the brace off, doesn’t it tuck the roof panel section into it?

    BTW, where is Round Rock?
    The other option is to make sure you have a several good locating holes to match up. Use those to bolt the T-top structure back in using 1/4" bolts or so. That will align everything back up and allow you to tweak and adjust if needed. Once everything matches up then you can start riveting away.

    Round Rock is north of Austin in Central TX. That is where my parents live and I am staying. My shop is out in Hutto which is east of Round Rock where we are rebuilding/restoring/modifying Erracti50's Saleen Clone. It's just another 2.5hrs south of Dallas that's all!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  21. #1046

    Default

    Not far from Waco then?

    I shot the hood. In a couple days I’ll redo the semi-gloss on the grey.Name:  599CAB52-7E7B-4554-80FE-8E111444B610.jpg
Views: 126
Size:  72.1 KBName:  9AE30A54-A137-49C2-B6B0-BF06071937CF.jpg
Views: 127
Size:  81.0 KB

    Im really liking it.

  22. #1047
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Duncannon PA
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    758

    Default

    Love the GLX in the black!

  23. #1048

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Love the GLX in the black!
    Thanks man, the black is actually a dark gray with quite a bit of pearl in it. I'll try to get a picture in the sun (assuming it shows it's face tomorrow) so you can see it's sparkle.

  24. #1049
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    721

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    I was not too sure on the green at first (I've never been much of a green fan), but the hood looks great.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 06-05-2018 at 05:26 PM.

  25. #1050

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    Thanks Ed.

    I got the floorpan down to the shop to etch it and put a coat of sealer on it. Turns out the Taiwanese manufacturers put a coat of weld through primer! Saves me a little material there.Name:  277D2126-9647-48F6-AD29-3AB16D7BA6EC.jpg
Views: 85
Size:  70.9 KB

    I’m getting a new reciprocating saw today, woohoo! God Bless America and the Snap-on corporation.

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