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  1. #1001

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Griggs makes several good points. The caveat being that he is really addressing most of this from a competition angle and not a street car angle. This is especially true in regards to a Fox with the IRS since the IRS was an add on by Ford to a chassis that was originally designed in the late 70's and was never intended to have an IRS much less be a real road course handling car by any means. What Griggs, Maximum Motorsports, Agent 47, Kenny Brown, and others have been able to do with the Fox chassis over the years is really pretty amazing when consider the humble beginnings of the design.

    With all that said, I think the big question for you is what do you plan to do with the Mustang. Is this a street car or a track car or a hybrid of both? If this is a street car, then full on race tuning is neither needed or desirable in most cases. If this is a hybrid, then you will want to consider many upgrades to the IRS, if this is a full on race car, then you might want to reconsider the "Perfect Paint" if going Wheel to Wheel.

    Maximum Motorsports and Full Tilt Boogie Racing both offer several upgrades to the IRS that will improve the whole rear suspension even for the street car. Not necessarily cheap options, but definitely make improvements over the compromised OEM design. Everyone here knows I am a big proponent of Maximum Motorsports and their products, but I do have to admit that FTBR has done a ton of hands on work with the IRS and makes some very nice products. I have a few of them on my 79 PC and as the budget allows there will be more.

    I do have to agree with the statements above that doing a 1.5" flare kit to your Mustang may be the better option for what you want to accomplish with this Mustang. I would recommend the Maier Racing flares as IMHO the 1.5" kit is subtle but does give that added width that allows much wider wheels and tires at all four corners. YES, the kit will require some extensive body work to be perfect, but you have shown that is an area you are highly skilled in and shouldn't be an issue. I currently have their 1.5" fenders on my 85 Road Racer GT and I love the look, most people don't realize their are wider than stock and they look great. I still need to do the rear quarters, but not being home in CO and budget have not allowed that to happen just yet. I will say that with my experience with my PC and the IRS, adding the rear quarter flares should allow you to easily run a 10-10.5" rear wheel and possibly even an 11-11.5" if you go to the hard mount on the rear cradle with no clearance issues. That will be plenty of wheel for 315 tires and give you a subtle wide body that just looks killer.

    That would allow you to install the IRS as is without any need to modify the control arms, shock mounts or even Mini Tub the Mustang unless you just want the additional work. The flares will work with your stock front and rear bumper covers and all the stock side moldings, etc can still be attached to look like an original Mustang if you choose. I highly recommend checking into a Maier Racing's Website. https://www.maierracing.com/product-...79-93-mustang/

    Here is a picture of the Maier Racing 1.5 fenders I have.

    Attachment 120422

    Here they are on the car with stock rear quarters at this time.

    Attachment 120423
    Hummmmm.......are those metal or fiberglass?
    Last edited by Davedacarpainter; 04-24-2018 at 12:21 PM.

  2. #1002

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    Quote Originally Posted by T-O-N-Y View Post
    Haha personalized vanity plates??
    Eventually

  3. #1003

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Thanks Tony, i'm calling the car Booger now based on the color.

    You should call the car Kermit instead.

    That green is soooo......green.

  4. #1004
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Hummmmm.......are those metal or fiberglass?
    Fiberglass. They will need to be massaged to fit the body just as Basin Motorsports http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...pe-Build/page4 did to his 3" flares on his 80 coupe. Just nature of the beast unfortunately. Love the idea of an extra 3" of wheel coverage, but I personally like the look of the 1.5" flares better as they are subtle enough that many will not even notice if they aren't familiar with a Fox body.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  5. #1005

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Fiberglass. They will need to be massaged to fit the body just as Basin Motorsports http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...pe-Build/page4 did to his 3" flares on his 80 coupe. Just nature of the beast unfortunately. Love the idea of an extra 3" of wheel coverage, but I personally like the look of the 1.5" flares better as they are subtle enough that many will not even notice if they aren't familiar with a Fox body.
    I agree with 1.5.

    i think I would rather fabricate them out of the existing panel. I’m not much of a fan of trying to blend fg and metal. It always seems to end up cracking. Here’s a picture of one I really likeName:  74C873C8-4E94-472E-997D-91EC7E1A7726.jpeg
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  6. #1006
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    I agree with 1.5.

    i think I would rather fabricate them out of the existing panel. I’m not much of a fan of trying to blend fg and metal. It always seems to end up cracking. Here’s a picture of one I really like
    The only blending would be on the rear quarters, the front fenders are complete replacements. The rear quarters could be done out of all metal with a pair of donor quarters and some metal work if so inclined. I have considered the same for my Road Racer since I just don't feel like spending the $$$ on the Maier rear quarters and I already have the front fenders. But once again that Mustang is in CO and I am down here in TX! Oh well, guess I need to get to work on my RS and get all the rust fixed on that one and finish it. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  7. #1007
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I would love to do a fox with metal full fender flares. The squarish design of the fenders make it look like an "easy" job.

  8. #1008
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    I would love to do a fox with metal full fender flares. The squarish design of the fenders make it look like an "easy" job.
    BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! "Easy" suuure.

  9. #1009
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    DaytIMSA time!

    A mixture of 1979 Daytona Mustang "smootening" with pre M81 Mclaren "IMSA GT" flares with French Gotti 10 slot three piece 75 BA wheels on 345 Pirelli P7 35 15 inch tires section and those F-A-R out flares.

    I'm on the record at a personal level of sayin' I don't really like flares, but Ford did it with grace in 1980. It was the birth of the Aero Stang in 1987, but it happened 7 years earlier with a 4 eye.


    Ford wanted to know how cars like this would "clinic", and if wide body flares were an option. Mike Kranfeus from ZakSpeed and laterly of Ford SVO fought the battle to integrate Cologne Capri RS2600, RS 3100 and RS 3400 flares into the Fox body, and boy they do some work with the same 15" Gotti centers in many different widths.

    I love the JPS colored Jalapa Lamborghini,



    The Countach S,

    and the flared Group C 1980 XD Falcon, which was aero tested at Lockheed in Georgia at the same time the Austrlian XD program, was wid tunnel tested.




    and 1982 XE Falcons especially in arrest me red with flares....




    The notchback Dick Johnson Falcon Grand Prix Turbo is my all time fave flared Ford...








    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    I'm looking at making a copy of the 1979 Ford Mustang Daytona showcar smoked polycarbonate headlamp, grille and lamp aero body kit combined with the 1980 IMSA plexiglass kit.

    It's so I can drop the Cd from the 0.44 it is now to well below the SVO's 0.32 if I can.

    For example, in instances where an engines automatic transmission spec and gearing wasn't changed, the same 135 hp, such as in Europe, for example, the Audi 5000 got a near 40% reduction in drag, and it saved 11 % fuel on the highway cycle, 2.1 US mpg at 56 mph, and 2.6 mpg at 75 mph, and it got an extra 5 mph top speed.

    If you can look past the ultrawide 12 x 15" Compomotive / Ronal Turbo wheels AND P7's, these shots show the IMSA has 90 degree tangs that hook into the trims.







    They said of it on http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1979-1...d-mustang9.htm



    Anyone got more IMSA window photos. I'm hoping to add glasshouse kit without spoiling the existing car, so its gotta be a bolt on bolt off deal, not a flush bonded 87 on set up.

    Threads are http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...g-IMSA-concept

    And http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ord-collection

    I'm pretty sure that with these two mods, and perhaps a brianj style low body kit and an undercar belly pan, I'll get total body protection, and better mpg's, but I goota know how those IMSA window covers were fastened.

  10. #1010
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, and if you do it right, even a Le Car has swank....





  11. #1011

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    Those Renault R5s caused me to have a love affair with these little bastards...
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    Jim DeAngelis
    Cornucopia of Useless Knowledge
    Connoisseur of Dearborn Ferrous Oxide
    '83 GT hatch, currently under the knife

  12. #1012

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    Back to what’s really happening right now, I’ve ordered the new floor pan, seat cross brace, right front subframe, and a lower torque box reinforcement kit. I was going to get Wild Rides torque box replacement if I would have stayed SRA. But it’ll be IRS for Booger.

    I’m planning to bring the car to the garage in June to begin cutting and welding.

  13. #1013

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Iím thinking the front mounts wonít need modifying. The rear cradle mounts without a doubt will need modification.

    i want to bring them in enough to hardtail mount them below the frame. Iíve got an idea on that one.

    I would have to get coilovers since the area where the springs mount on the frame rail will have to go.

    The reason for the custom sway sway bar is the coilover clearance when I move the upper shock mount inboard. This will be the area I need to modify the frame rail a little. A little slicing and dicing for an area for the coilover to be leaned in. The lower mount wonít be affected.

    i believe I will need a set of Kenny Brown lower control arms too. Maybe not need, more of a want. Iíve read about their problems but I believe i could rectify those issues. Do you know anyone else making an aftermarket lower?
    Sweet coupe and color!

    I'm going to keep an eye on this! I've been thinking of doing almost the same exact thing you are to my IRS when it goes under my '96. I'd like to mini-tub it as well. So far the problem area really seems to be the shock / coil-over area. It would be nice if someone made a cantilevered coil-over setup for this. That might help with tire clearance more.

  14. #1014

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTwilight View Post
    Sweet coupe and color!

    I'm going to keep an eye on this! I've been thinking of doing almost the same exact thing you are to my IRS when it goes under my '96. I'd like to mini-tub it as well. So far the problem area really seems to be the shock / coil-over area. It would be nice if someone made a cantilevered coil-over setup for this. That might help with tire clearance more.
    I have given up on the overall narrowing of the IRS. The CV joints turn out to be the nail in the coffin for me. I will minitub sort of, except the widening will be on the outer section of the tub itself. Of course that means I'll have to flare the 1/4. I want to make it similar to the Maier 1.5" flares. This ough to test out my artistic abilities!

  15. #1015

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    I ordered an Eastwood Versa 20 plasma cutter last night.

    I know it's the smaller model, but it's supposed to cut very clean thin metal like sheet metal. That's one of the key uses I'll have for it.

    Im so excited about this. I can't wait to use it.

    I also ordered a set of Scott Rod panels for smoothing my engine bay.

    So, everything is ordered and on its way. Now I need to organize my garage to get ready to start working on Booger. Woohoo!

    I'm going to tell the wife I need to have the garage for three months to work on the car. Then it's back to storage for it. Busy times coming.

  16. #1016
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Congrats you should be pretty happy with the Eastwood. I like the Versa Cut 40 that I ordered. It runs 120 and 240, so I would suspect on 120 it cuts the same as the Versa Cut 20 and then has a bit more power when running the 240 volts.

    I will probably grab a pair of quarter panels here in TX and take them home to CO to do my rear quarter flares sometime in the future. I will definitely see how things go for you.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  17. #1017

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    Got new parts! Pretty floor panName:  IMG_4033.jpg
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    A complete headlight kit from LMR. They have a new kit that includes new chrome rings and adjusters, that's what this isName:  IMG_4034.jpg
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    Top box is the new right front subframe, the bottom is the seat crossbrace.Name:  IMG_4035.jpg
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    So, still waiting on my Team Z lower radiator support. My Scott Rod Fab inner fenders for the engine bay smoothing, and of course my spiffy new plasma cutter.

  18. #1018

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    I have given up on the overall narrowing of the IRS. The CV joints turn out to be the nail in the coffin for me. I will minitub sort of, except the widening will be on the outer section of the tub itself. Of course that means I'll have to flare the 1/4. I want to make it similar to the Maier 1.5" flares. This ough to test out my artistic abilities!
    Do you still plan to move the rear mounting points underneath the frame rail? That is what I have been thinking of doing to mine. I don't plan to narrow the entire IRS. Just to move the rear mounting point under the frame and maybe figure out something with the coil overs to gain a little more tire clearance.

  19. #1019

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedTwilight View Post
    Do you still plan to move the rear mounting points underneath the frame rail? That is what I have been thinking of doing to mine. I don't plan to narrow the entire IRS. Just to move the rear mounting point under the frame and maybe figure out something with the coil overs to gain a little more tire clearance.
    I’m thinking about just doing a hardtail attachment for the rear mount, that alone will open up space. With the 1.5” flare I will be doing I’ll have more than enough room for 315’s on the rear.

    the largest I want to run up front will be 275’s. Not quite balanced for road racing, but that’s ok. I’m not going to road race it.

    If you want to move the upper mount slightly for the shock/coilovers you can buy an upper mount from Maximum Motorsports. I might still do that. With a little fabrication you could pull the upper side of the shock in a little.

    That rear mount is the key thing to change. Making it into a hardtail frees up a bit of room.

  20. #1020

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    So, I got the new headlight kit from LMR. Today I figured I would pull all of the old crap out of my 'good' header panel. (You don't want to see the bad one).

    I got all the old wasted lights and adjusters and pads out and discovered this.Name:  IMG_4041.jpg
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    While better than the original one on Booger, it obviously still needs help.

    I started fixing it, YAY fiberglass!!! The little bit of grinding I did on it I figured I wouldn't need a long sleeve shirt How easy it is to forget the joys of working fiberglass. My arms are fine until I set them down on anything to rest. Then I'm thinking, Oh Boy, Fiberglass!

    I copped out and used panel bonding adhesive. It's my wonder drug.Name:  IMG_4043.jpg
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    Due to the multiple facets of this panel, it took three different applications of PBA to get it where it is. Plus due to the fact I have access to a paint booth that has a bake cycle, I actually got through all three applications of the PBA today.

    I took the headlight buckets to the sandblaster with the new(ish) radiator support.

    Now, my problem. Mine and mine alone.......alone in a corner where a little devil speaks in my ear........I'm thinking about smoothing the repairs and painting the headlight mounting panel the accent grey.........I may need help........

  21. #1021

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    I think I almost built a new header for my car out if pba. I made tape dams to keep it where it needs to be. Also, don't forget to NOT rivet the cover and header back together without extreme care or you will be back here again ( I have 3 holes to fix on mine). That's how I know

  22. #1022

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I think I almost built a new header for my car out if pba. I made tape dams to keep it where it needs to be. Also, don't forget to NOT rivet the cover and header back together without extreme care or you will be back here again ( I have 3 holes to fix on mine). That's how I know
    Lol, yeah Shane, i'm with you on this one.

  23. #1023
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I think I almost built a new header for my car out if pba. I made tape dams to keep it where it needs to be. Also, don't forget to NOT rivet the cover and header back together without extreme care or you will be back here again ( I have 3 holes to fix on mine). That's how I know
    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Lol, yeah Shane, i'm with you on this one.
    It doesn't work in all cases as some of the rivet holes are blind holes that can only be riveted together. For some of the holes you can use an allen button head 1/4" bolt with a nylon lock nut. That allows you to tighten everything up, but not too tight. Not a "Factory" setup but it does work especially if you need to fit the cover for painting and then take back off.

    As for the rivets First and foremost make sure you are using an aluminum rivet. Steel Rivets are too strong and destroy the panel. Second if you can get the aluminum mandrel that helps too. Either way, good luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  24. #1024

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Fiberglass. They will need to be massaged to fit the body just as Basin Motorsports did to his 3" flares on his 80 coupe. I personally like the look of the 1.5" flares better as they are subtle enough...
    Are you saying this isn't subtle? Maier is building new 1.5" and 3" molds for the Fox flares. They have seen a surge in requests and purchases in the last few months.

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  25. #1025

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    I got this today!Name:  IMG_4046.jpg
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    Tomorrow I shall become a plasma cutting fool

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