Close



Page 48 of 48 FirstFirst ... 38464748
Results 1,176 to 1,199 of 1199
  1. #1176
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Western MA
    Posts
    5,788

    Default

    That full floor looks like a big project. I’ve done halves but never a full pan. Good luck.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  2. #1177

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    That full floor looks like a big project. I’ve done halves but never a full pan. Good luck.
    Thanks Joe. It feels pretty straight forward and fairly easy.

    I’m going to start working on it in a few minutes here, if there’s anything to know about that I didn’t foresee I’ll let y’all know.

  3. #1178

    Default

    What a day......I got the old floorpan completely removed. Would you believe I cut all of those spot welds out with one HF spot weld cutter bit?Name:  IMG_4535.jpg
Views: 73
Size:  119.7 KB

    There are a couple areas I'll need to patch on the rear floorpan. First the driver's side passenger foot area, it's a bit rotted outName:  IMG_4528.jpg
Views: 74
Size:  112.3 KB

    Then a little side ways from that, the vertical area that the eb bracket welds to. Name:  IMG_4529.jpg
Views: 72
Size:  83.6 KB

    I'll use pieces of the old floorpan to fix these areas.Name:  IMG_4534.jpg
Views: 73
Size:  86.1 KB

    Whilst the old floorpan is out I might as well straighten out the pinch welds along the rockers. The passenger side is a bit ugly!Name:  IMG_0850.jpg
Views: 72
Size:  90.0 KB
    Last edited by Davedacarpainter; 07-14-2018 at 08:38 PM.

  4. #1179

    Default

    You're a better man than me, the last few days up here it's been so hot you could cook a turkey in your pants. I cleaned out a grain bin (even hotter in there). I haven't had the energy for extra work, especially not rusty dirty work

  5. #1180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    You're a better man than me, the last few days up here it's been so hot you could cook a turkey in your pants. I cleaned out a grain bin (even hotter in there). I haven't had the energy for extra work, especially not rusty dirty work
    I've never tried the turkey in the pants thing Shane.

    We had some pop up storms today. It was supposed to be over 100, not even close in the end.

  6. #1181
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Western Canada
    Posts
    4,266
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    You're a better man than me, the last few days up here it's been so hot you could cook a turkey in your pants. I cleaned out a grain bin (even hotter in there). I haven't had the energy for extra work, especially not rusty dirty work
    While not a common occurrence I have cleaned bins before to help an uncle...years ago...on a somewhat hot summer day. I have not tried the turkey in the pants thing before Or heard that expression before

    BTW Dave, I am amazed at what you are doing. From afar you make it all seem so easy! Bing, bang boom, floor out!

    In your garage!

  7. #1182
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    2,840

    Default

    Wilma, the Floors dropped out of the Fred Flintstone car.

    Now its perfect Dave!

  8. #1183
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    780

    Default

    Dave, do the new floorpan lips fold up like the original ones or down along the rockers? I know the first gen mustang repro floors used to be bent the wrong way. I think they finally got it right over there in China eventually and now they fold up like they are supposed to.

    I apparently have done enough rust repair in the last 30 years, because I look at what you have done and keep thinking I probably would have walked away from that car the first day I saw it. Though I have to admit I am a bit jealous of you having a super nice ttop coupe in the end. I'm working on a 68 mustang coupe right now that is down to the shell that I did a bunch of metal work on. I finally am to the block sand and filler primer stage. Would like to have it in paint by end of summer or early fall. So I know what all of this is about. Huge huge job not for the faint of heart.
    Last edited by dagenham; Yesterday at 07:24 AM.

  9. #1184

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Dave, do the new floorpan lips fold up like the original ones or down along the rockers? I know the first gen mustang repro floors used to be bent the wrong way. I think they finally got it right over there in China eventually and now they fold up like they are supposed to.

    I apparently have done enough rust repair in the last 30 years, because I look at what you have done and keep thinking I probably would have walked away from that car the first day I saw it. Though I have to admit I am a bit jealous of you having a super nice ttop coupe in the end. I'm working on a 68 mustang coupe right now that is down to the shell that I did a bunch of metal work on. I finally am to the block sand and filler primer stage. Would like to have it in paint by end of summer or early fall. So I know what all of this is about. Huge huge job not for the faint of heart.
    The bend on the rocker edges goes upwards like the old one. What a pita it would be if they went down!

    This is one of those times that I'll live with a chinese product. I'm very much a Buy American kind of guy.

    Funny you mention walking away, I wouldn't do this for anyone else's car unless they paid me a whole lot of money. But I really like doing this stuff in this situation. It's my hobby that I enjoy. Not just the end product, the process is every bit as much fun for me too.

    The yard owner from where I found Booger recently got a '69 fastback that he's trying to sweet talk me into helping him on. I may, he's a really good guy.

    I can't wait to be at the final stages of primering and blocking, that's a long way off for me. I still have it in my head I'll have the eb/front end painted the first week of September.

    I hope your project turns out well.

  10. #1185

    Default Sub Frame Connectors

    I'm not sure what I'll do here.

    The type of sfc's isn't the question. It's when I should put them in.

    The few sets I've installed have been on cars that had their drivetrain in them and the weight of the car on the wheels.

    Do y'all think I would have a problem with installing them even if I have Booger on all four wheels and yet not have the weight of the drivetrain in the car?

  11. #1186
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Western MA
    Posts
    5,788

    Default

    I wouldn’t think it would be a problem. You’re working with a shell. Everything will be properly aligned during the balance of the build including the doors.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  12. #1187

    Default

    I’m really at the point to choose the style of SFC’s I want. I still like the idea of through the floor SFC’s. I just hate the idea of cutting up a new floorpan!

  13. #1188

    Default

    Just go with MM full length. Through the floor is totally unnecessary! The SFC are not the lowest point with the MM connectors anyway.

  14. #1189
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,391

    Default

    What erratic50 said. Besides, it would make it hard for the next guy to return it back to stock.

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  15. #1190

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    What erratic50 said. Besides, it would make it hard for the next guy to return it back to stock.

    Mike
    The next guy will occur upon my death. I won't worry too much about it then, lol.

  16. #1191

    Default

    So, today. I did a couple things.

    First I cut out the rotted sections in the front of the rear floorpan.Name:  IMG_4538.jpg
Views: 33
Size:  95.9 KB

    I used the trimmed sections to make cardboard templates to transfer to some of the old floorpan. I trimmed out those pieces and welded them in.Name:  IMG_4540.jpg
Views: 31
Size:  85.2 KB

    I welded in the eb cable bracket and coated the bare metal with some etch paint for now.Name:  IMG_4541.jpg
Views: 32
Size:  103.4 KB

    I put the new floorpan in to see what I have to trim. It needs about an inch taken of the front (still need to put the new holes for the eb handle too.Name:  IMG_4545.jpg
Views: 31
Size:  95.5 KBName:  IMG_4544.jpg
Views: 32
Size:  93.6 KB

    Next move is the subframe connectors, I'll be doing a ladder system with a jacking bar along the pinch weld. I'm out of spending money, sooooooo.....

    I'll make my own. We'll be covering that this week.

  17. #1192

    Default

    Hey Trey, is there any good way to smooth the rocker pinch weld?

    Right now I'm thinking of hammering it as flat as I can and filling it somehow, wether bondo or some other way.

  18. #1193
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,502

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Hey Trey, is there any good way to smooth the rocker pinch weld?

    Right now I'm thinking of hammering it as flat as I can and filling it somehow, wether bondo or some other way.
    That's about the only way that works for me. Sometimes some additional welding will for fill in helps to limit the filler. I personally like Evercoats All Metall filler for something like that, but even the Rage or Rage Ultra will probably work fine.

    The Floor looks good, now that you have it all figured out, when are you going to make the trip down to Round Rock and fix the RS for me!

    Hint of advice on subframe connectors, You want to support the car at three point as it sits right now. The best is usually a pair under the rear axle and then one center up front under the K member. I know your K member is out, but you may want to consider at least temporarily bolting it in or at least use a piece of square tubing and support that with a jack stand. That will allow the car to sit as level and square as possible while you install the SFC. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  19. #1194

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    That's about the only way that works for me. Sometimes some additional welding will for fill in helps to limit the filler. I personally like Evercoats All Metall filler for something like that, but even the Rage or Rage Ultra will probably work fine.

    The Floor looks good, now that you have it all figured out, when are you going to make the trip down to Round Rock and fix the RS for me!

    Hint of advice on subframe connectors, You want to support the car at three point as it sits right now. The best is usually a pair under the rear axle and then one center up front under the K member. I know your K member is out, but you may want to consider at least temporarily bolting it in or at least use a piece of square tubing and support that with a jack stand. That will allow the car to sit as level and square as possible while you install the SFC. Good Luck!
    Thanks Trey. I'll probably throw the crossmember back in there for this stage.

    Yeah, maybe some filling with the welder and all metal for the rocker. I like to have that smooth.

    BTW, the floorpan fit easily through the windshield for those wondering how the hell to fit it in your car.

  20. #1195
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    780

    Default

    It always seemed to me that the perfect way to put sfc on would be to put the car on a frame machine to make sure the car is square and straight and weld on the connectors while mounted on the machine. It wouldn't matter what weight is on the car then would it?

  21. #1196

    Default

    That's a favor I've been waiting on... asking my buddy to strap my car to a frame machine at his shop on a Saturday so I can put sfc's on mine.

  22. #1197
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Fond du Lac,Wisconsin
    Posts
    530

    Default

    I did the SFC's in my car the without the drivetrain in it also. Do it like a cage install. Make sure you have the tub level and very well supported. I used 4 jack stands and 4 RV leveling jacks to support it. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry. Good luck, looks good so far!

  23. #1198

    Default

    Dave, where did you source that complete floor pan from?
    1984 Mustang LX
    302, Holley 4bbl 600 vac sec
    B&M C4 R servo
    Shorty Headers
    MSD Box and Coil
    Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6
    Crower Cam 472 112 seperation
    Chetah Shifter
    Performer RPM Intake
    Carter Electronic Fuel Pump
    Accel Eletronic Dizzy

  24. #1199

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by flyboy60 View Post
    Dave, where did you source that complete floor pan from?
    Late Model Restoration.

Page 48 of 48 FirstFirst ... 38464748

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •