84 LX 5.0 HO engine and engine compartment restoration

[fgross2006]

Today I took the first step in engine and engine compartment restoration of my 84 Convertible LX.

Crated engine arrived a few days ago and today I went to my mechanics shop and masked it off and painted it Old Ford Blue.

The engine came pre painted gloss black but I want it Ford colors. There were 3 shades of Ford engine blue and I had to order the darkest as its not readily available in local auto parts stores. The darkness of the paint with the glare of the heavy sun make it hard to tell the difference between the gloss black and Old Ford Blue but its on there. You can see the over spray on the paper.

I'm gonna post all my pics of the project in this thread. I plan to clean, prime and re paint the engine compartment Oxford White and black on the frame where needed.

Right out of the crate,
Attachment 102959

Gloss black from the rebuilder
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Masked and ready for re painting
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Back in the crate after painting.
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[fgross2006]

Heres pics of my intake before and after as well as valve covers and pulleys I painted gloss black.

Heres my intake right after I pulled it. It was grimey with a coat of road grime a 1/4 inch thick.
Attachment 102964

Heres the intake and valve covers after having them cleaned a blasted by the machine shop. They look new again.
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Heres the valve covers and intake after 3 coats of hi temp clear coat.
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Heres the intake and valve covers being heat cured in my oven. Wifey was not happy that night. Stank up the house and neighborhood.
Attachment 102967

Here I replaced the worn water bypass nipple with a brass fitting. Not stock but the ridges will grip the hose nicely Im sure.
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[fgross2006]

Here I had the fitting for the heater hose and coolant temp sensor repaired with a new nipple.
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Heres my air cleaner and pulleys painted gloss black
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Heres my timing cover, water pump and distributor painted with aluminum paint and hi temp clear coat on top. I like this alum paint. Im gonna do up my A/C compressor, alternator and a few other things with this stuff.
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[fgross2006]

As I said, I plan to re paint the engine compartment as well as the underside of my hood Oxford white. Any suggestions on how many rattle cans of Color match Ill need?

And color match cans are a few ounces less than other brands. its annoying and Oxford white isn't the easiest color to find. I been running around grabbing a can here and there.

[grabbergreen84]

Awesome thread! That blue does look nice and dark. If you didn't get a lot on there, you might want to hit it again, although you'd want to know the recoat window stuff. I think the motors were black in '84, but the Ford blue really compliments some exterior/engine bay colors, like white. I'd still probably paint the oil pan black, but blue wouldn't bother me there.
When I see (late '60s-'70s) dark Ford Engine Blue on the block and heads in a fox, against all of the correct bare (or refinished) aluminum, and a complimentary engine bay color, I realize that it's incorrect, but still think that that's the way Henry should have done it. Although I think straight 6s might've been blue.

As I said, I plan to re paint the engine compartment as well as the underside of my hood Oxford white. Any suggestions on how many rattle cans of Color match Ill need?

A serious crap-load of the little cans, but if you can get it in the larger spray cans, then I'd still want at least three. Although I'm sure others could use less and still get a good result, my opinion is that you want a good thick coat on the engine and engine bay. Look at the Truck and Van Paint, and see if there's an Oxford white. That always came in the large cans, I think it was made by the same company which makes the smaller cans. Duplicolor?

And mask everything which isn't painted white from the factory. Everything. If your decals are good, and the paint around them is good, you can mask the decals and surrounding paint with 'fade-tape.' Dunno what it's really called, but it's basically for masking without leaving a seam.

[vxr500]

Looks good. Just curious, why the 2bbl intake?

[vxr500]

Never mind, it's a CFI. Sorry, I'm not fully awake yet.

[fgross2006]

Awesome thread! That blue does look nice and dark. If you didn't get a lot on there, you might want to hit it again, although you'd want to know the recoat window stuff. I think the motors were black in '84, but the Ford blue really compliments some exterior/engine bay colors, like white. I'd still probably paint the oil pan black, but blue wouldn't bother me there.
When I see (late '60s-'70s) dark Ford Engine Blue on the block and heads in a fox, against all of the correct bare (or refinished) aluminum, and a complimentary engine bay color, I realize that it's incorrect, but still think that that's the way Henry should have done it. Although I think straight 6s might've been blue.


A serious crap-load of the little cans, but if you can get it in the larger spray cans, then I'd still want at least three. Although I'm sure others could use less and still get a good result, my opinion is that you want a good thick coat on the engine and engine bay. Look at the Truck and Van Paint, and see if there's an Oxford white. That always came in the large cans, I think it was made by the same company which makes the smaller cans. Duplicolor?

And mask everything which isn't painted white from the factory. Everything. If your decals are good, and the paint around them is good, you can mask the decals and surrounding paint with 'fade-tape.' Dunno what it's really called, but it's basically for masking without leaving a seam.

I gave the engine 4 coats. Its plenty thick. Im gonna need a lot of rattle cans to finish the engine bay and the underside of the hood.

I bought all new decals from LMR. I had put new decals on when I got the car but some came off and others look grimey. This way Im putting them on a clean engine bay should look great.

[deathbypsi]

Do you have a automotive paint shop near you? In my build thread for my 83 Tbird you can see how I did mine. I went and had a quart of single stage paint premixed and use his http://www.preval.com/ to spray it. I paid $28 for the paint and the Preval stuff was about $12 at my hardware store. The end result is a factory looking finish that is much more durable than rattle cans.

[homer302]

I think the motors were black in '84, but the Ford blue really compliments some exterior/engine bay colors, like white.

5.0 engines were unpainted. They were bare cast iron. Oil Pan was a medium gray. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with taking some liberties when doing a project like this. Who cares? Most of our cars will only ever see the parking lot of a museum, if that, let alone ever be in one. I think it's going to look nice and I can't wait to see the finished project. I also like aluminum cast coat paint.

[fgross2006]

So I spent all day in my garage today working on all my parts to get them prepped. Heat was too blistering to be in the sun here in NY and last week I got a bad 3rd degree sun burn in Montauk so the garage was a good place to be today.

hard to believe I spent all day on this but heres pics of what I did.

I wire wheeled my steel fuel lines that run along the intake to the CFI and I decided to paint them in aluminum paint and clear coat them. Hopefully they will hold up.
Attachment 102986

I also cleaned an painted my EGR cooler and Throttle cable bracket in alum paint and clear coat.
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I had done my water neck in glossy black but changed it to the Old Ford Blue. I also took my time repainting my EGR. the base is gloss black, the body is alum paint.

I also took time to set up the gaskets on the waterneck, water pump and timing cover
Attachment 102989

[fgross2006]

I cleaned my harmonic balancer and polished the timing scale. I marked it at zero, at 10 and at 14. the three important marks Ill need.
Attachment 102990

This vacuum switch is now no longer needed on my car. I had the lines plugged but Im thinking of plugging the hole and the vacuum line from the intake.
Attachment 102991

Does anyone know if this bolt hole right below the vacuum tee has a purpose? theres another one on the opposite side of the intake. I just cant remember if they are used or not.
Attachment 102992

Got most things on the intake just to get it ready to drop on the engine. Nothing tightened yet. Just seeing how it looks.
Attachment 102993Attachment 102994

One minor mishap I seem to have misplaced the water neck bolts. Does anyone know what sizes they are? Will a couple of stainless from the hardware store be OK?

[grabbergreen84]

Dunno if I'd do stainless there, near coolant and potential corrosion, but see what others say. I know the lower bolt is shorter than the upper one.

[JTurbo]

Looks great so far! Keep up the great work.....

[fgross2006]

Heres more pics taken today. it was a loooong day. I was at the shop at 9 AM when they opened, stayed till 7:30 when he closed and I didn't take a lunch break the entire day. Heat exhaustion when I got home from being in the sun all day but I did get a lot done today.

have to post a few times to get all the pics in since a pic max per post.

First the hood.
This is it with the insulation still on after removing it
Attachment 103140
This one is before doing any work to it
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This is it after wire wheeling it
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This is it after priming it
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This is it after about 3 heavy coats of color match Oxford white and the latches done glossy black. Im gonna put the same insulation back on since it is in good shape. Hopefully the edges hold out a long time as I sprayed a bit heavier there.
Attachment 103141

[Gemini1999]

I think that these photos must be in he wrong order.

But, the one photo with the very bright, white underside must be he finished product...nice work!

[fgross2006]

I think that these photos must be in he wrong order.

But, the one photo with the very bright, white underside must be he finished product...nice work!

I just fixed the order, Apparently the uploader doesn't sort the same order as I upload.

[fgross2006]

So here's an assortment of brackets I cleaned a painted

The air pump done in alum paint with glossy black pulley and the hood latches
Attachment 103145
The dip stick painted Ford Blue and dipstick bracket glossy black. The pull ring didn't show up in this pic. I have to retake it. I did the pull ring in Ford Blue. It was yellow, why I don't know but Yellow don't fit my motif.
Attachment 103146
Headers and header bolts painted high temp black.
Attachment 103147
Headers before I wheeled and painted them. I had them blasted last summer and loved the natural steel look. I had clear coated then in hi temp clear but this is how they looked after a year so now its black.
Attachment 103148
even painted the oil pan bolts Ford Blue. My mechanic thinks I'm nut handling every nut and bolt but that's what I'm doing because I get one chance to do this right. I wire wheel every nut and bolt, clean them with thinner then paint them according to where they will be bolting to,
Attachment 103149

[fgross2006]

A few different angles of my intake assembled and ready to be dropped and torqued. This was done boiled, blasted and clear coated. Heat treated in my oven :-)
I also wire brushed the throttle body and sprayed it with clear, no alum paint.
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[fgross2006]

My SVE radiator I got from LMR almost two years ago was looking worn and beat up. A quick coat of hi temp black to make it look mean again.
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Tensioner bracket done in alum paint
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Before and after pics of the thermatic air tubes in alum paint.
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[fgross2006]

Tranny kickdown in alum paint
Attachment 103162
here's an assortment of odd things I found today.
Found this debris in my oil pan after dropping it. not sure exactly what this stuff is from but I assume my oil pump imploded. That would explain the beat cam.
Attachment 103158
Last summer I had a thread concerning my O2 set up and rich conditions. After posting pics of my set up (which was butchered by someone prior) Jeff had explained to me that my O2 is supposed to ground to the back of the heads. I had been unable to get my hand behind the engine far enough to find the bolt he told me to use so I had simply moved my ground to the bolt that holds the thermatic air tube in place and it worked OK. Well surprise, surprise I actually found the original ring terminal broke off from its original ground line, still hanging from the bolt Jeff told me it was supposed to be on. Jeffs, the man. He knows all.
Attachment 103159
Found my thermatic air port 100% clogged on the driver side. Never would have found this had I not pulled the engine.
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The thermatic tube was also 100% clogged on the driver side. Took a lot of poking with wire and flushing with parts cleaner to get it flowing correct. Now the system will work as its supposed to.
Attachment 103161

[Walking-Tall]

Great work! Everything's going to look better than new!

If the seal groove in the balancer is sufficiently deep (looks like it might be), one of those repair sleeves so it seals well wouldn't hurt to get and install while things are apart. I saw you got a Melling oil pump, but did you get an oil pump drive shaft and steel retainer clip? I ask that because the one picture of the oil pan debris, the one part is the oil pump drive shaft, and that one is bent and the retainer clip isn't in the picture.

[fgross2006]

Great work! Everything's going to look better than new!

If the seal groove in the balancer is sufficiently deep (looks like it might be), one of those repair sleeves so it seals well wouldn't hurt to get and install while things are apart. I saw you got a Melling oil pump, but did you get an oil pump drive shaft and steel retainer clip? I ask that because the one picture of the oil pan debris, the one part is the oil pump drive shaft, and that one is bent and the retainer clip isn't in the picture.

So the new oil pump and new oil pump pickup don't come with a pump drive shaft and retainer clip? Really? More stuff I gotta buy?

[Walking-Tall]

So the new oil pump and new oil pump pickup don't come with a pump drive shaft and retainer clip? Really? More stuff I gotta buy?

Being that your oil pump drive shaft is bent, and the clip's missing, and that stuff doesn't normally come in the box with a new oil pump, yes. Check your Melling box, but I don't think so. Parts like that are assumed to be reused, like with a rebuild, because normally those parts are not consumables like rings/bearings/gaskets... and there's a certain way the oil pump drive shaft's gotta go in, from the bottom, with the clip so the distributor can be removed later and the oil pump drive shaft doesn't come up/out with it. Be sure that that's assembled correctly.

[fgross2006]

More pics from today. Another 10 hours in boiling heat to the point of heat exhaustion. this engine swap will be the death of me yet.

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