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  1. #1
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default 1979 Pace Car Tail light Refinish

    I finally decided I needed to refinish the tail lights for my Pace Car. This was brought on because I sold the set that were installed to a fellow member here and need to fill the holes!

    I forgot to take pictures of the pair before I started but the both essentially looked like this. Yes! I know the housing and the lens are from opposite sides of the car.

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    Fairly typical tail lights in most cases. Not too bad, but definitely can use some improvements.

    So I carefully sanded the housings, the lamp socket areas, and the lenses themselves with 400 grit sand paper and grey Scotchbrite pads. This is what they looked like after that.

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    You want to make sure that all areas are well scuffed up so that the paint and clear will stick to the surface and you wont have peeling paint later on. I had a couple of areas that needed a little more attention so I did that before cleaning off all the sanding residue and got them ready to paint.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Here are the lenses ready to be taped up so I can repaint the black trim around the actual lens.

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    This is the lenses after taping off all the red and clear of the actual lens and read to be repainted black.

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    I first sprayed everything with BullDog Adhesion Promoter to help make sure that everything sticks. Then I sprayed the lenses and the housing with black base coat. I ended up spraying 3 coats to make sure I got everything covered and I had a nice base to clear over. I allowed the base to flash off for about 20 minutes and then I removed all the masking tape on the lenses for the next step which would be the clear coat. I then spray 3 coats of clear coat over the lenses and the housings. This is what they look like right now.

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    As you can see the lenses look virtually brand new with a much better shine and gloss than what I started with. I will allow the housings and lenses to cure over night and then the next step starts tomorrow.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    I approve! HaHa. They look great. Huge improvement
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I approve! HaHa. They look great. Huge improvement
    Thanks! Not sure if I will get them wrapped up tomorrow or not, but I hope so. Have the new butyl tape waiting to seal them up, but still have some additional work first!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5

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    I use the 3M strip caulking for that and it works great. I try to not pull them apart because they never go back together as good as they were from the factory. There is always a gap between the lens and housing. But, sometimes you can't avoid it I know or a previous owner already has.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I prefer the Butyl tape over the strip caulking just because it is actually what Ford used originally and it's a bit "stickier" so I feel more confident that I won't lose a lens when Hot Rodding around town!

    I personally have had good luck with getting the lens and housing to seat fully. It takes a bit of persuasion and can be a bit nerve racking thinking you are going to break or crack something, but I generally get them to seal up nice and tight. I have found that pulling the metal clips out and cleaning them individually seems to help make sure the lip on the lens can snap back into the clips for a nice seal and a flush seal.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

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    I would love to see how to do this. In fact, this should be turned into a HOW TO tail light restoration thread. Here is what I did and you can tell mine have never been apart by the gap. And they are WAY bright still too. Hope you don't mind. I will delete this post if it's muddying up your thread.










    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Tail lights look good!

    No problems here. I am going to refinish the tail lights for my SVO in the near future. Since I don't have the originals, I will have to paint the stripping on anyways and I had planned on doing a thread for that too.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    If the housings are black inside, would not the overall lighting look dim with no reflective surfaces in the bulb socket area?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    If the housings are black inside, would not the overall lighting look dim with no reflective surfaces in the bulb socket area?
    I believe that is part of the "more to come" he is talking about. And I don't believe LED bulbs need reflectors. Not that he said anything about LED. I am just prospecting here, LOL.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Good job, Trey!

    I like the clear coat trick to smooth out the scratches.

  12. #12
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    If the housings are black inside, would not the overall lighting look dim with no reflective surfaces in the bulb socket area?
    I was wondering when someone would mention that!

    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I believe that is part of the "more to come" he is talking about. And I don't believe LED bulbs need reflectors. Not that he said anything about LED. I am just prospecting here, LOL.
    You GOT IT! I will be working on that today. The surfaces will be reflective even though eventually I hope to run a LED setup (well different than just the replacement LEDS I have right now).

    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Good job, Trey!

    I like the clear coat trick to smooth out the scratches.
    Thanks! I have been doing this for years! It started out when I had my Resto Shop and we were doing A Lot of SVO tail lights because of the stripping fading and wearing off. The polishing of the lenses just never seemed to really bring back the "NEW" look and I wanted a way to bury the stripes to protect them, so I started clear coating them. Works really well and much easier than trying to polish them IMHO.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #13
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    No problems here. I am going to refinish the tail lights for my SVO in the near future. Since I don't have the originals, I will have to paint the stripping on anyways and I had planned on doing a thread for that too.
    Great work Trey! Just wondering why you used an adhesion promoter? It seems for some products it isn't necessarily required these days. I suppose it is just for piece of mind as well as practicality?

    I'm in the middle of redoing all of the trim on my SVO right now and I'm looking at the tail lights thinking...hmm...should I go and do the tail lights too (they weren't in my original plan)? The hard part will be polishing between the lines before repainting.

    I have a pair of re-pop lenses but I think I want to try to restore the originals before I try to put them on. They have the tape stripes and they would need them redone with paint anyways.

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I personally like adhesion promoters like BullDog. I have used it for years and never had any issues with it. I don't use it on everything, but I do use it on plastics, urethane, and in areas such as jambs, edges, etc. that are hard to scuff completely and fully. Did I have to use it on the tail lights . . . . probably not, but it only took a couple of ounces of BullDog and about an extra 30 minutes of my time and I have no worries about everything sticking well.

    As for the SVO lights, the way I used to do them was wet sand them 400 grit paper until you have a nice scuffed sheen across the entire lens. Sometimes that would remove all of the stripes, sometimes just parts of the stripes. Then I would mask off to respray the stripes. Spray them with a basecoat, then remove the masking and clear everything. Now the lights look brand new. If I really wanted to go overboard. I would then color sand the clear and put another couple of coats on to completely bury the stripes so you couldn't even feel them. That is the plan for my SVO once I get my GT done.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    So to wrap up the refinish. Here are the tail light housings all masked off for the application of Killer Chrome. This is by Alsa Corp, they make some really cool products, but they price them extremely high IMHO. http://alsacorp.com/killer-chrome/ If you sign up for their newsletter they will send you emails when stuff is on sale which is fairly regularly. I only buy when they are on sale as the retail pricing is more than I can or want to pay.

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    The application of the Killer Chrome is very technical, not that it is hard, but you don't spray it like every other paint you have ever used. So it takes some getting used to. Honestly I got in a bit of hurry and the final product was as good as it could be if I had taken a bit more time and done it exactly like the instructions tell you. Oh! Also check with the website for the instructions as they are much more detailed and specific than the can. I forgot about the humidity issue too so running my swamp cooler to cool the shop probably wasn't the best idea either. Either way the housings came out good, but they could have been even better with more attention to detail on my behalf, but I was trying to wrap this up and get to other projects needing my attention.

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    You can see the reflection is a bit duller than it should be. Not bad, but again it could have been better. The fact that I haven't sprayed this stuff in about 9 months doesn't help either.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    That should be plenty "chrome" to create a nice glow

  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the housing unmasked and ready for reassembly.

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    Now it's time to install the metal clips that help hold the lenses in place as well as the butyl tape to seal it up. If you look closely on the housings you will see there are four spots where the groove is just a bit wider to accept the clips.

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    I make sure and clean all the clips to remove any old sealant, etc. so nothing will preven them from snapping onto the housings. I install the clips first to make sure they are fully seated in the groove using a flat blade screwdriver or paint can opener to push them all the way down. Then I install the butyl tape between the clips top and bottom. Remember this stuff is sticky and will stick to your tools, your fingers, the housings, etc. so take your time and be careful. You can get it to move and come off, but it does have a heck of an initial grab. Now I run the butyl tape from the top to bottom around the corners of the housings. I do that so there aren't any openings that might allow water or dirt inside the lens. Here is everything done and ready for the lens.

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    Last edited by wraithracing; 07-10-2016 at 08:15 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  18. #18
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Now it's time to install the lens onto the housing. This is not difficult, but you do want to take your time and be careful where and how you push on the lens so as to not break or crack it.

    I place the lens on top of the housing, then I position the inner edge of the housing (part closest to the license plate) at the proper spot and begin to press down. I work my way towards the outer edge of the lens making sure that the lens lines up properly with the curved section of the housing. Once the whole lens is set into the buytl tape, I begin to squeeze the pair together making sure that I use my hands only on the area directly above the butyl tape. DO NOT push onto the face of lens with your hands as you might crack it. As you squeeze you will hear an audible snap or pop when the lens snaps into the clips. Make sure that you hear and get all 4 clips to snap. Then I usually will put the lens face up against my body under my arm and gentle squeeze the entire housing tightly together. Remember though that the lens will not actually sit flush with the housing itself there is a gap. This is normal and to be expected.

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    You can see the gap in the pictures above and notice the small vents or drain holes on the bottom of the lens in the last photo. Once your gap is fairly even and your clips have all snapped then you are ready to install the new looking lights into your Four Eye!

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    So there you have them installed. I am sorry those are the best pictures I have for now. I will get some very soon at night with the lights on so you can see the difference. Hope everyone enjoyed the little write up. Thanks!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #19

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    Great job ! Now I really need to do mine.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otracing121 View Post
    Great job ! Now I really need to do mine.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Thanks!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  21. #21
    FEP Senior Member Quicksilver's Avatar
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    Trey,
    Looking good. The spray chrome looks really good, neat product.
    Can't wait to see a picture at night with bulbs installed.
    You mentioned LEDs. Is a different flasher required due to lower resistance?
    Rob

  22. #22

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    Outstanding work. I didn't realize the '79-82 lights assemble completely different from the later ones. They are obviously a much different shape, I just didn't realize the lens mounts to the housing like that. Learn something every day.
    Looks terrific.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quicksilver View Post
    Trey,
    Looking good. The spray chrome looks really good, neat product.
    Can't wait to see a picture at night with bulbs installed.
    You mentioned LEDs. Is a different flasher required due to lower resistance?
    I currently have some @ 10 year old LED bulbs in the PC. Generally an electronic flasher will do the trick with any LED lights due to the lower resistance. I plan on swapping out the current LEDs for some better ones that are brighter. These are narrow focus units that only direct the light straight back. Old design, but that was what was available and affordable at the time. I would like to upgrade to an LED panel/board to really light the back up, but I haven't gotten too far into that yet. There are a couple of options out there that might work, but will require some customizing to fit properly. Right now my 82 GT is the focus to get back on the road.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #24
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Outstanding work. I didn't realize the '79-82 lights assemble completely different from the later ones. They are obviously a much different shape, I just didn't realize the lens mounts to the housing like that. Learn something every day.
    Looks terrific.
    Yeah the early housings are much different than the later ones and aren't interchangeable. I wish Ford had matched up the housing areas to the rear taillight rectangles as that would look much better, but since the same housing is used for the Capri lights and maybe even other Foxes it makes since.

    Thanks!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  25. #25
    FEP Member BDASPNY's Avatar
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    awesome job and write up!

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