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  1. #76
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    What an awesome boss! You should do something nice for him. Don't want to get on his bad side and maybe you can use the lift or something at the shop sometimes! Don't beat yourself up. The only way we learn is thru our mistakes. If you are going to crimp it has to be right. Otherwise get a cheap soldering iron and solder your connections and get the good heat shrink with adhesive inside to completely seal the connection.

    But it's back up and running so don't sweat it! How about more pics or maybe a video of it running. I'd like to hear the spintech mufflers!
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  2. #77

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    What an awesome boss! You should do something nice for him. Don't want to get on his bad side and maybe you can use the lift or something at the shop sometimes! Don't beat yourself up. The only way we learn is thru our mistakes. If you are going to crimp it has to be right. Otherwise get a cheap soldering iron and solder your connections and get the good heat shrink with adhesive inside to completely seal the connection.

    But it's back up and running so don't sweat it! How about more pics or maybe a video of it running. I'd like to hear the spintech mufflers!
    You are right. There was no need to beat myself up about it and there's nothing wrong with making mistakes. I've learned a lot through mistakes. It's just something I have to work on. I always get down on myself when such a thing happens, but I always come back and fix it better. I'll try to get some videos up this weekend. Seems like each day I love the way these spintechs sound more and more.

  3. #78

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    Well next upgrade is definitely going to be suspension. This car is so much worse than with the 4 cylinder. My heavy foot doesn't help at all with that. It gets wheel hop pretty bad. My trunk pops open haha. Both brackets on the front sway bar are all bent outta shape. Somehow both sides are missing a bolt. Car never had a rear sway bar. Te passenger side is really weak. Pushing down on it, it is a lot easier to move than on the driver side. Even with a light person it leans over. It hits pretty hard on bumps if I don't go slow. Loud thud that hurts my soul each time I hear it. I plan on doing the SVE coilover kit from LMR. New rear control arms, I'm thinking either BBK or UPR. Front and rear sway bars, I'm liking the Eibach on LMR. Any thoughts on that stuff? My struts are only 3 years old. I did go with the lower end Monroes though. My rear shocks are some Monroe air shocks. Those have always been pretty hard riding. There's no way I can afford the upgrades I want any time soon so I may just settle for doing a warranty replacement on the front struts for now. I believe the passenger side is bad.
    Last edited by chevelle21; 07-03-2018 at 02:46 PM.

  4. #79
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you are getting things sorted out and able to enjoy the car as much as possible.

    Don't beat yourself up on the repairs and mistakes. I doubt you have or will make a mistake on a Mustang that I haven't over the years. Live and learn and as long as you don't repeat then you are making progress.

    I am a big proponent of a well handling vehicle and especially my Foxes so I will give my .02 for what it is worth.

    First and foremost go here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ take the time and read everything you can and get educated on what works, what doesn't and why for a Fox Body ride. There are cheaper and other options out there for suspension parts, but I guarantee you won't find any better parts at any price. If MM doesn't offer a specific part for a Fox, there's a reason it either doesn't work or isn't worth the costs.

    IMHO the SVE Coil over kit is not the best option, especially with your Monroes. They are most likely not designed to support the entire weight of the vehicle and probably are not valved properly to provide the improved handling and ride quality you will want. Nothing wrong with a coil over setup, but I recommend looking at MM's options. Yes more expensive, but you only have to do it right once.

    I also don't recommend virtually any of the aftermarket rear control arms and definitely NON of the upper arms except for the OEM style rubber bushing setups. I recommend reading MM's site for why and look at their control arms.

    Unless you are planning on really pushing the envelope the OEM sway bars are just fine and will save you $$ in most cases. I personally like a rear sway bar, but some feel differently. In most cases, the 1 1/8" front bar and the 7/8" rear bar work well without causing ride quality issues.

    I would recommend doing a rebuild of most of the suspension first if funds are tight as that alone can make a huge improvement over old bushings, ball joints, bearings, etc. If you want to upgrade to poly bushings up front that is good and the same for the sway bar bushings and end links. I recommend the MM rear lower control arms and stock uppers with new rubber bushings for best handling and ride quality. I also recommend ditching the rear air shocks and buying at least a decent set of Monroe's or upgrade to Koni/Tokico/Bilsteins.

    If you want a lower ride height and improved handling the either Eibach or H&R springs will fit the bill without breaking the bank and definitely save you some $$ over a coil over setup. Hope this helps and feel free to PM me if you want more information. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  5. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Glad to hear you are getting things sorted out and able to enjoy the car as much as possible.

    Don't beat yourself up on the repairs and mistakes. I doubt you have or will make a mistake on a Mustang that I haven't over the years. Live and learn and as long as you don't repeat then you are making progress.

    I am a big proponent of a well handling vehicle and especially my Foxes so I will give my .02 for what it is worth.

    First and foremost go here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ take the time and read everything you can and get educated on what works, what doesn't and why for a Fox Body ride. There are cheaper and other options out there for suspension parts, but I guarantee you won't find any better parts at any price. If MM doesn't offer a specific part for a Fox, there's a reason it either doesn't work or isn't worth the costs.

    IMHO the SVE Coil over kit is not the best option, especially with your Monroes. They are most likely not designed to support the entire weight of the vehicle and probably are not valved properly to provide the improved handling and ride quality you will want. Nothing wrong with a coil over setup, but I recommend looking at MM's options. Yes more expensive, but you only have to do it right once.

    I also don't recommend virtually any of the aftermarket rear control arms and definitely NON of the upper arms except for the OEM style rubber bushing setups. I recommend reading MM's site for why and look at their control arms.

    Unless you are planning on really pushing the envelope the OEM sway bars are just fine and will save you $$ in most cases. I personally like a rear sway bar, but some feel differently. In most cases, the 1 1/8" front bar and the 7/8" rear bar work well without causing ride quality issues.

    I would recommend doing a rebuild of most of the suspension first if funds are tight as that alone can make a huge improvement over old bushings, ball joints, bearings, etc. If you want to upgrade to poly bushings up front that is good and the same for the sway bar bushings and end links. I recommend the MM rear lower control arms and stock uppers with new rubber bushings for best handling and ride quality. I also recommend ditching the rear air shocks and buying at least a decent set of Monroe's or upgrade to Koni/Tokico/Bilsteins.

    If you want a lower ride height and improved handling the either Eibach or H&R springs will fit the bill without breaking the bank and definitely save you some $$ over a coil over setup. Hope this helps and feel free to PM me if you want more information. Good Luck!
    Thank you for all of that! I'll read everything on that website. Suspension is where I'm really lacking knowledge. I've never had to do anything related to it other than shocks and basic strut replacements. So I'll definitely have more questions to PM you after I do some reading.

  6. #81
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Even though your car was a 4 cylinder, I still recommend when you are working on the rear suspension to check the upper torque boxes (where the upper control arms mount to the body) and lower torque boxes for cracks. Look all along the stamped steel brackets and where it spot welds to the body. The factory rear suspension binds up because of the design and just overloading it can crack the upper torque boxes. Also check for the standard Fox Body crack under the drivers seat in the floor pan.

    With the V-8 you'll want to add a good set of full length subframe connectors. Maximum Motorsports makes a great set. They really stiffen the chassis right up and support the front seats.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  7. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Even though your car was a 4 cylinder, I still recommend when you are working on the rear suspension to check the upper torque boxes (where the upper control arms mount to the body) and lower torque boxes for cracks. Look all along the stamped steel brackets and where it spot welds to the body. The factory rear suspension binds up because of the design and just overloading it can crack the upper torque boxes. Also check for the standard Fox Body crack under the drivers seat in the floor pan.

    With the V-8 you'll want to add a good set of full length subframe connectors. Maximum Motorsports makes a great set. They really stiffen the chassis right up and support the front seats.
    Will do man. Thanks for the advice. Looks like I have tons of work to do on the chassis and suspension.

  8. #83

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    I knew this day would come.... I knew some time after I got this swapped to a V8 my dad would eventually stop giving me compliments. Yesterday when I went over for the 4th of July cookout he finally brought up what I knew was coming. He owns a 1971 Chevelle.... I'm sure you all reading this know where this is going now. I've noticed since I finally started doing the swap he started talking a little bit more about his car and doing some more work to it. He wants to race for a $100. I don't know many specifics about his car. It's a rebuilt 350. Edelbrock 600 cfm. Edelbrock intake. Stock heads. No idea what cam. TH350 tranny. Not sure what rear gears, whatever came stock in that particular rear end. Street car. Has never seen the track. That's all I know about it. I don't have enough experience to even guess what's gonna happen. His car is also where I got my username from when I was younger. Sorry guys lol It's just easier to remember since it's been my username for nearly everything for years.
    Last edited by chevelle21; 07-05-2018 at 04:48 PM.

  9. #84
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevelle21 View Post
    He wants to race for a $100.
    This is easy... Hit up the test-n-tune night at the track for a few weeks to figure out your deal, drag his azzzzz and then snatch his $100!

    If it was me, I'd make him a side bet that his car won't even run mid 14's!
    '85 GT

  10. #85

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    Welp... another thing added to the broken list. My 6AL is giving out on me. Died on the way home from work again. Wasn’t wiring this time. All of that checks out ok. When I slap the box it turns on. I died about 7 or 8 times trying my hardest to get home. The last time it died I wedged two wrenches behind it to keep it angled hoping to keep whatever is wrong inside to hold up. That did the trick. Got me home without dying again. I also noticed my engine is tilted pretty bad towards the passenger side. So tomorrow I’ll warranty the box at Oreilly and I’ll hoist up the engine to see if I can set it down straight again. There’s another show next month. Trying so hard to make it. These setbacks are killing me.

  11. #86
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Maybe you should look at this info to be sure you did't get a knock off 6AL. It seems to be a bit flaky if it was new.

    https://thecounterfeitreport.com/product/244/

  12. #87
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Look on Ebay for the MSD store. They sell factory refurbished and warrantied boxes a lot cheaper than brand new. I got a Digital 6A for like $159 or $179. Because I have am using Holley EFI I didn't the AL with the rev limiter. You could also get a MSD Streetfire. It's not as powerful, but I had one and it worked fine when I was carburetor.
    Last edited by droopie85gt; 07-07-2018 at 11:02 AM.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  13. #88

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    Thank you guys for advice, Droopie and BMW. I have another new 6AL in my possession. I have not been able to install it. I went camping this weekend. Was much a needed break from work and the car. It's been raining since I got back. This time of year always sets me back. Always stressing out trying to make the car show. Thinking maybe once I get the car straight again on the MSD and engine lean I'll save up for some type of carport instead of more upgrades. It'll be more beneficial in the long run since the mustang isn't the only thing I turn wrenches on. I have a 79 F-100 that's also a project. And also a little beater 87 tercel hatchback that needs another engine.

  14. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    This is easy... Hit up the test-n-tune night at the track for a few weeks to figure out your deal, drag his azzzzz and then snatch his $100!

    If it was me, I'd make him a side bet that his car won't even run mid 14's!
    I forgot to mention that he also said "When" he wins that the next race will be for pink slips. The beer was flowing so I'm sure he didn't mean that part.. Even if he did I would never take his car from him. We still haven't talked about when the race will be. I'm still having troubles and his car isn't safe to drive yet. Needs front end work he says. If I were to win I'm sure it'll be mixed emotions on his side. Mad and bummed cuz he lost, but yet I know he'd be happy because he knows he taught me right. Nearly everything I know is because of him. If I were to lose I'll be upset, but that won't mean me giving up.

  15. #90

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    Small update... got in new sway bar bushings and end links. One of the guys in the shop let me use his bench vise. I used one of the new bushings as a guide to bend the bracket I messed up back into shape. I hooked up the new msd box. Car fired up right away. I just hooked it up real quick to try it out. Rain was on the way. If the weather is good tomorrow I'll trim wires and do it properly. I also have a new motor mount in case the one on the car is bad. IF all that works out fine then I can move on to the rest of my list for car show prep. Which consists of restoring the clear coat that has gotten pretty bad, Touching up the interior, and replacing the front right strut. I have a month to get it ready. Sounds like plenty of time but with monsoon season and only being able to do things on weekends it becomes hard to do.

  16. #91

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    Show us some more pictures of your work, I'm one of those simpletons that needs a visual confirmation of what you are saying.

  17. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Show us some more pictures of your work, I'm one of those simpletons that needs a visual confirmation of what you are saying.
    Will do my man. Just haven’t really done anything yet that makes it look any different than previous pictures. I should’ve taken pics of the bent bracket. My passenger side is bent as well. I just noticed. I’ll take some pictures of how bad my engine is leaning in a while when I head outside.

  18. #93

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    Ok here’s how bad the engine lean was. This must be why I thought my tranny was shifted to the right.

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    Here’s the old mount compared to the new mount. Was a little worse off than I was expecting.

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    This is how we sit now with the new mount. Much better. Sorry for the lighting. Now to clean up from being soaked in this sweat and head to the hardware store for some supplies to properly mount my MSD box.

  19. #94

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    Man! I know about the gangster lean with fox bodies, first time I've seen the engine with it too.

    Good fix brother.

  20. #95
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're making great progress, and learning a lot, as well.

    Remember to take a LOT of photos at the car show for us.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
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  21. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Man! I know about the gangster lean with fox bodies, first time I've seen the engine with it too.

    Good fix brother.
    Thanks man! Ya the gangster lean on the engine was pretty bad. My shifter is in a much more comfortable place now. I used to not like it at all because how far away it was. I didn't really think that the engine leaning would effect the shifter that much. I still wanna put a short throw on though. The stock SN T5 shifter is too long. Feels like I take forever to shift now compared to the old tranny and to my little hatchback tercel. Man I miss my hoopty (the tercel) there was just something so fun about banging gears in that little car lol

  22. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by IDMooseMan View Post
    Sounds like you're making great progress, and learning a lot, as well.

    Remember to take a LOT of photos at the car show for us.
    Thank you. I am learning a lot. I'm seeing that a lot of my problems could've been prevented. Like my MSD box. I didn't know the little black things in the hardware bag were for the vibrations so I didn't use them. Maybe I should've read the directions. But hey like previously stated, we all make mistakes and that's how we learn. I used them this time so I'm hoping the box lasts much longer than a month or so. I'll take plenty of pictures. I was horrible at that the last few shows I've done. I didn't take a single picture of any vehicle other than my own.

  23. #98

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    I'm also gonna FINALLY take a short video of the car running later this evening for those of you wanting to hear the Spintechs. People in town keep asking me what mufflers they are. I'm going to start telling them I'm not willing to say. I can almost guarantee nobody is running these where I'm from. I'd rather keep it that way. I like being unique.

  24. #99

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    Sorry guys no video. Was raining when I got back home. I’ll try again tonight.

  25. #100

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    Sorry guys no video. Was raining when I got back home. I’ll try again tonight.

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