Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1

    Default The First, a Second Time: 1983 GT T-top Build

    Hey Folks, Just want to start up a thread to share my project. It's a 1983 GT T-top in Polar White and Black sport Interior. Manual Windows, No-AC.



    Probably should have started this in 1999 when I bought the car, but im not sure if I knew there was a thing called the world-wide-web.

    As the title might have alluded, this was/is my first car. Bought back when I was 15 years old. Car came mostly stock with a C4 and Dynomax mufflers. I did a lot of work to it on low funds, but saved every bit I could and propelled the car into the 12's.



    What has already been done:

    DSS Pro Bullet 306 Long Rod Short Block with Main support
    GT40 3 bar heads shaved a little bit, valve work
    Isky Springs
    1.7 crane Roller Rockers
    B303 Cam
    Weiand Stealth Intake
    Holley 750
    MAC Short headers
    MAC H-Pipe w/ Gutted Cats
    Flowmasters
    C4 Trans with Shift Kit and Hammer Shifter
    3 Core Radiator and Black Magic Fan
    MSD 6 Iginition w/ Blaster 2 Coil
    Ford Racing Wires
    8.8 3.73 and Moser Replacement Axles, Trick Flow Support Cover
    Ford Racing Aluminum Drive Shaft
    Summit Racing Tubular upper and Lowers
    Eibach Pro Kit Springs
    16" Cobra Reps with 255/55/16 BFG Drag Radials
    Front Sway Bar Removed
    Rear Mounted Battery with Kill stitch
    One Wire Alternator
    Auto Gauge Monster tach
    A-pillar Oil and Water gauges


    Fast forward to 2007, I moved to Vegas, left the car behind were it sat in storage for 8 years. Eventually, I sold off my other projects and transported the car across the country last year.

    Getting out of Storage and to my parent house.



    On the truck across country.



    Home




    Took a little time to gather steam, but finally started to pull it apart to start and bring it back it's past glory.

    Even though I got it running to come out here. Everything needs to be touch, refreshed, changed, replaced or upgraded.

    Hatch is crusty so I got a replacment from an Aero GT. Also got hood, front and rear bumper from a 84 1/2. I still need to deside if I will use them.



    Floor Boards. I only need to replace the driver rear.





    First course of action to get it on the road is the brakes. The largest concern which I never cared about was the stopping. They're horrible. So, Ill be doing the suspension and brakes at the same time. They will be manual with 1" Cobra Master cylinder. Rear will be NRC Brackets and Turbo coupe parts, front with be 87-93 V8 parts. Suspension will be Team Z's finest.

    So, i really want to drive the car, it's been a long time. So, I hope to keep her running on its current bullet and collect parts to get it in to the low 10's.....oh yeah and "restore" it a little as I go.

    Idea for the car is to be stock appearing in most aspects with stock body panels and stockish interior Will have serious go-fast goodies within reason to keep it streetable to some degree. It's a t-top car and Im against putting a cage in it. I dont like to public annoucement my "plans" as things sometime change. Talk is cheap they say! I'm more of a do-er then a talker.

    Shall we begin!?

    New Bigger M/T 275/60/15 S/S Drag Radials



    Now with Wheels, 15 x 8 5.5 BS Weld Draglites. Need some to make some room!



    Night shot of the shop, had just installed (13) 48" LED Shop lights. My work time is after the kids go to bed.... my wife thinks I must be doing surgery!



    I had an old Grant GT wheel that I hated, so refinished the stock wheel and threw it in.





    Did some work to the fenders and was comfortable getting on the ground.






  2. #2

    Default

    Very nice. What a cool story too. I can't believe you paid storage on it for 8 years. That far exceeded the value of the car but there is no replacement for sentimental value. Believe me I get that. I have a car I didn't want but I am scared to get rid of it because I inherited it and it has memories of a lot more then the car itself.
    Good luck on your build. It is in such nice shape I don't believe you will have much trouble getting it going at least to where you can enjoy it. Based on the garage, you are extremely well organized so I imagine you have a good plan in place.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  3. #3

    Default

    Promptly started purchasing Brake parts and rear end stuff. Decided to swap in some 3.55's for future plans... 28" tire... Maybe some of you are catching on.

    Refinished my Trick flow cover





    Por15 the rear housing




    ... and the V8 spindles.



    3" studs on all 4 corners with open lugs. Keeping with 4 lug, because Im a purist at heart. Plus I can now get some TRX style wheels if I want a sleeper. The car i believe was a TRX car.



    Used V8 spring from an 86. I will cut a coil off. I hope it raises the car up a hair or so.



    Rear End came back dry with 3.55's. I then started mounting everything up.

    NRC Brackets
    Turbo Coupe Calipers (they came coated like that!)
    Classic tube stainless lines
    Trick Flow Cover
    Moser Replacement Axles
    Moroso 3" studs
    Had to find some lower shock brackets as I didnt realize the 7.5" shock mounted differently. Ran it incorrectly for several years.



    Complete



    Currently, I just paid off my student loan debt in full. So waiting to replenish some funds before I get my suspension parts. I wiill start with some Wild Rides battle boxes and contact Team Z shortly after for their rear goodies. Then, I'll get it on the ground before I start up front. September my brother and dad will be out and I hope to get some chassis work done. Currently, I have been flying solo, the 100* heat doesnt help.
    Last edited by ev5oh; 06-30-2016 at 05:43 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Been collecting parts as I find them in the yard. Truly lucky to have one just down the road from work. I stop in every so often to see what is new. Is some of the last pictures you can see some interior panels from an 86. The previous own cut holes in the ones in the car next to the rear seat for speaker. It always bugged me. Even though my car never had speakers in the hatch, these panels will have to do. At least they are stock appearing.

    I also was luck to find a 84 1/2- 85 rear spoiler intact. Ill use it with the 84 1/2 nose if I choose to use it.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Very nice. What a cool story too. I can't believe you paid storage on it for 8 years. That far exceeded the value of the car but there is no replacement for sentimental value. Believe me I get that. I have a car I didn't want but I am scared to get rid of it because I inherited it and it has memories of a lot more then the car itself.
    Good luck on your build. It is in such nice shape I don't believe you will have much trouble getting it going at least to where you can enjoy it. Based on the garage, you are extremely well organized so I imagine you have a good plan in place.
    Thanks for the comments. The pictures hide a little rust issues on the body. Hatch is shot, there is a small hole under the hatch at the top where that rubber patch material is. Then there is a little on the 1/4 window ledge and back side of the driver door jam. Stuff I will later share and ask for expertise. Car has been sprayed before, the color is not a white as I would expect. Hopefully, I can get more pictures of the car itself for you.

    I was lucky to store the car for free at my grandmothers garage for several years. It was a perfect dry setup. I later had to move it out and pay for warehouse storage. I wasnt happy with the conditions which helped me make my mind up to bring it to the desert.

    My garage is my other vise. Need to fill it with some equipment though!

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member 83gtstang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Shreveport LA
    Posts
    2,095

    Default

    Wow that cat kicks butt. Love the big wheels and tires tucked right in the wheel wells.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    Amazing story, and great to see the work progressing! !

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member 83GTRAG's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    York, PA
    Posts
    3,658

    Default

    Nice car looks great, perfect color.
    Rob

    current cars:
    83 GT Convertible
    83 Project GT T-Top Coupe
    84 GT T-Top Hatch
    86 GT Hatch low mile car
    00 V-6 Convertible

    all white cars!

  9. #9

    Default

    I guess you can consider this a big update if you base it on the pure magnitude of the project. After much debate, I decided to clean the bottom of the car before I get things bolted-up. I originally considered pulling it back apart once I get it road worthy, but I didnt want to put nice new parts on a cruddy undercarriage. Also, who likes to work on dirty cars?

    I probably have 20-25hrs into it. Cleaning with Xylene, rags, brushes, wood sticks, and plastic scrapers. I have 95% complete with the exception of under the fuel tank and ahead of the firewall.

    It's alot of work, but look how nice it gets!.

    The beginning



    Finishing up







    You can see the only rot at the rear driver pan where it was cracked. I dont think it would have been so bad if a previous owner didnt rivet and bolted in a piece of un-protected sheet metal. I peeked at it under the carpet and the sheet metal is basically a sheet of surface rust. That will be for another day.




    Last week I did get in my Wild Rides Battle boxes and messed with them a little bit, but didnt do any work. I also finally have a working fold-down rear set. The hinges that had been in the car didnt have the rivet at the pivot point. Not sure if they were drilled out for a reason, but for the ownership of the car just had the arms flopping around. I was able to locate a set from the yard out of an 85. There were some updates from 83. The 83 had two large washers at the seat pivot, but the 85's have a boss the same thickness included on the hinge. Seems like a better design.

  10. #10

    Default

    Build sheet will say if it came with TRXs. Someone might be able to figure it out from the spring codes on the door sticker, but that's a long shot. Nice car! I can't believe how clean it is underneath.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  11. #11

    Default

    I might be able to correlate the spring codes on the door tag to the type of suspension. No need to do that with the build sheet as the wheel and tires codes will tell you if it was TRX or not.
    Axle Tag Decoder
    Buck Tag Decoder
    Door Tag Decoder
    Owner Card Decoder
    Transmission Tag Decoder
    VIN Decoder

    FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II

    Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags

  12. #12

    Default

    Thanks for the offer. Here is the door tag.


  13. #13

    Default

    Fox Chassis was nice enough to decode the bucktag, door sticker and owner card.

    VIN
    1FA = Ford vehicle manufactured in USA by Ford Motor Company by Ford Motor Company
    B = active belts, no airbags
    P = passenger car
    28 = Mustang 3-dr hatchback
    F = H.O. 5.0L V8 engine
    X = VIN check digit
    D = 1983 model year
    F = Dearborn Assembly
    138338 = 38,338th 1983 Ford scheduled for production at Dearborn Assembly

    Door Tag
    Date - 12/82 = December 1982 scheduled build
    GVWR - 3950 lb/1791 kg = gross vehicle weight rating
    Front GAWR - 2014 lb/954 kg = front gross axle weight rating
    Rear GAWR - 1905 lb/864 kg = rear gross axle weight rating
    F0135 = 135 lbs front accessory reserve load
    R0075 = 75 lbs rear accessory reserve load
    Exterior Paint Colors - 9D = Polar White
    DSO - 12 = Buffalo district sales office
    Body - 61B = Mustang 3-dr hatchback
    Int Trim - HA = cloth Sport Performance seating (H), Black interior trim color (A)
    A/C - [blank] = no air conditioning
    R - 2 = AM radio
    S - D = T-roof
    Ax - Z = 3.08:1 rear axle ratio w/ Traction-Lok differential
    Tr - 4 = Tremec "SROD" 4-speed manual overdrive transmission
    KK = front springs
    HH = rear springs

    Buck Tag
    MUSTANG = Mustang model line
    138338 = 38,338th 1983 Ford scheduled for production at Dearborn Assembly
    61B = Mustang 3-dr hatchback
    F = H.O. 5.0L V8 engine
    TR = T-roof
    9D = Polar White exterior paint color
    DF
    ST
    04 = rear glass with defrost; hatchback liftgate with single-wing, without louvers or rear wiper
    HB = heated backlite (rear defrost)
    GT = GT model/trim level
    BR = black rocker panel
    MOD = manual overdrive transmission (Tremec 4-speed 'SROD')
    03 = non-functional rear facing hood scoop
    -A = Black interior trim color
    NLR

    Owner Card
    12 = Buffalo district sales office
    9D = Polar White exterior paint color
    HA = cloth Sport Performance seating (H), Black interior trim color (A)
    07M = December 7th scheduled build
    Z4 = 3.08:1 rear axle ratio w/ Traction-Lok differential (Z), Tremec "SROD" 4-speed manual overdrive transmission (4)
    2D = AM radio (2), T-roof (D)

  14. #14

    Default

    Not too much to update. Finally at the point where the under side is clean enough to bolt things back on it. Out of pure determination, I found a spray paint that is nearly the exaclty the same color as my factory e-coating. So I can touch-up some parts underneath like where my subframe connectors were installed and a few brackets. Im sure some of you are wondering what this magical paint could be...



    Hold your reply, the cap color looks much better in person. Like a green/gray color. I dont have a good shot to compare, but I did my Battle Boxes in this with a Satin Clear finish and it provides the correct sheen for what is under the car. I was pretty amazed. The interior factory finish, eventhough same, looks to be lighter/thinner. Hopefully Im not missing the mark under the car. I tried to verify best as possible with a florescent work light. im sure it will be fine for touchups. Ill try to get a shot to show the comparison and post.

    Here is a shot from inside the car and under side of the lower battle boxes. I still need to pull the seat back and do the uppers.








    Still getting part together, leaving town so I dont want stuff sitting at my step. Will finish getting the stuff for the rear soon. One hurdle is relocating the stock fuel and ent line form the inside of the pass. frame rail to elsewhere so I can install my Anti-roll bar in that location. Ill take any opinions on this.

    Last edited by ev5oh; 08-09-2016 at 11:48 AM.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Cordova, TN
    Posts
    994

    Default

    I just read the whole post. Great back story and an awesome looking car. As much as I like your car, I am drooling over the garage. My 85 in my garage is NOT in storage...it IS the storage. There's crap packed inside and on top of it. The hatch area is pretty empty only because I would have to get the crap off of the hatch to open it! But that's what happens when your adult step=son moves in for 6 months and the week after he moves out the mother in law with dimentia moves in. I am slowly but surely getting what I can into the attic.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  16. #16

    Default

    Thanks man. Still going on the garage as well. For some reason, it's the dumping spot for "thrown away toys" when my daughter refuses to put them away. Got that remedied this weekend though. I added some slat wall above the bench for easy grab items and a wheel rack on the right side to get them off the floor. Just have strollers and bikes to get up off the floor.

    I have a few carpenters at my disposal and know my way around our shop. So acquiring what I need is relatively simple. We made the cabinets, counters and tire rack. I really need another cabinet to get the lawn care items away and go through and organize and adjust the shelve in the others.

  17. #17

    Default

    Upper Battle boxes installed Finger-tight. Will need to have the wife help me tighten them up.



    Overall Shot.



    Team Z ARB for tail pipes. I plan on running dumps, but I have never had them before. So for a welded in piece, im keeping my options open for the future. This piece has run 7sec in the quarter miles. So, eventhough it is smaller diameter, it is pretty stout.



    Here are some shots of how well the touch up paint I shared above matched my factory E-coating. Did the inner frame rail here to clean up where the subframe connectors were welded in years ago. I didnt mask the body, just let the overspray blend itself in. Finished with a Satin clear coat.





    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z130/TourEnvy/1983%20Ford%20Mustang%20GT/C1B2A4F2-BAC1-486F-96BA-
    2B36FFFE40FF_zpsseqqshkf.jpg[/IMG]

    Did the outter frame rails over the axle in entirety as it had a lot of little spots and visible with the tire off. I have a feeling it will be this way for a while.... At least it looks mint! You can also see the bend liner inner wheel wells that I did a ways back.



    UPS lost my Team Z Double Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms for about a week. Finally they were found and delivery last night. My relocated uppers are on back order with LMR. Apparently, the truck carrying the orders from TZ got in accident. So, alot of the parts are being resupplied. Ill be ready to rock once I get them.

    Next on the list is grabbing a MIG for my brother to use while he is out in Sept. Hoping he can put in my ARB and at least weld up the holes in my hatch. There will be more that needs to be done, but I found out my newer neighbor builds trophy trucks for a living and he offered to lend a hand.

    Got to keep moving on this thing!

  18. #18

    Default

    It's been a while since my last update, but I promise I'm still moving forward. A lot of things happen last month. Even though I'm a big planner, I got caught with very little time to make my final purchases and get everything setup for when my brother came out. I was working late nights and all of the last weekend before he arrived. Monetary budget exceed for the month!! It's all good, but just dont do my best work like that and a grumpy-Gil to be around.

    First, I had to finish up my battle boxes. There wasn't enough time to wait to have my brother burn them in and then get the rear end in the car in order to do the other work. Bolt-in will have to do for now. Better then nothing!





    Team Z Double Adjustable Lower Control Arms and Relocated Upper Control Arms









    I decided why not go all the way with the bolts-on. Was happy to find this CHE 8.8 Axle Brace. Theres not alot of picture documentation on the piece, so I took several.













    Skip ahead a little! I wrestled the rear end into the car myself. Very awkward with the extra weight of the brace and the calipers on there. It just wanted to roll backward. Made for a sore next morning. At one point my neighbor wanted to stop by and chat. The member was up on the pump-jack, my hand balancing an axle tube and the other smashed between the diff cover and the spare wheel well. I promptly said politely that I was not in the position to talk at the moment, pun intended! I later told her the circumstances.

    Everything in and squared up. Luckily, it was spot on with all my measurements and baseline set points. Next I set the wheels in the wheel wells using the DA Lowers. Easy. Lastly, the pinion-angle was way off. Got it to -1.5° but the wheels moved to much. Had to do it all over again to make it perfect! I set it up to -1.5° based on Racecraft's site, but seeing more suggestions of 2° from the Team Z camp. I'll have to decide where I want to start at later point down the road.

    Once the member was in, it was ready for the ARB install. Went fairly smooth. I purchase an Eastwood 135 MIG, Gas and all the supplies for my brother to use. He said it was a super nice unit. I look forward to doing my own work in the not so far future. I just have to get to practicing.

    Everything was painted up to match.

















    My Brother was not able to get to weld up the holes in my hatch. I had all intentions of doing it myself. 2 weeks ago I started by drilling all the new ones. Was going well, but had a hard time with doing the access holes on the underside. Drilled two completely wrong! Leaving me these odd shape holes spanning the ribs. Crap! Had no reference, finally found a poor picture on the web, It was wrong as I knew it would be. It would have worked for the cars purpose, but not up to my expectations. With my luck I found one at the yard the next day, 91 LX, defrost glass. Had a few blips in the lower edge, but nothing crazy. Tore it off and took it home for $85. Resolved the issue in 24hrs. I stripped the tint off and cleaned up the glass. Massage a few bends in the lip.



    Car is back on the ground for the time being! I happy with the stance.




    Right now, saving up some funds and purchasing little-by-little. I have almost all my brake parts, Still need to buy a adjustable proportioning valve and a MM manual brake kit. As for the front suspension, I will be going with:

    Team Z Metal Matrix tubular K member, A-Arms,
    12" Coilovers
    Strange 10-way Adjustable Struts
    Caster-Camber Plates.
    Flaming River Manual Rack & Low profile steering shaft
    Bump steer kit
    .... Im sure Im forgetting things.

    Im trying to decide If I want fixed Caster plates and adjustable A-ams. They would add more $ to project, but would eliminate some repurchasing in the future. Also need to research a spring rate for the front. Im inbetween 150lb springs and 170lb springs.

    On order at the moment is G2 Caliper paint in Gold to match the back. Also, a pair of M/T Sportmans S/R 26/6/15's for the front wheels. The tires on there now are old Kuhmo tires 165/80/15. They are not only too old to run, just not tire I feel comfortable being on.

    I also sold off my Flowmaster 40 series Catback. The plan is to get some MAC Pro-dumps. I also would like to get rid of this ugly, heavy catted H-pipe for an O/R Pipe.

    Stay tuned!
    Last edited by ev5oh; 10-26-2016 at 12:05 PM.

  19. #19

    Default

    Great progress as usual. That thing is clean, clean, clean. Sounds like you have your plan already on the exhaust but I can just tell on the type and brands of parts you are purchasing that you like to do things high-quality. I think Magnaflow exhaust parts are practically a work of art compared to most other brands. Am i saying they make more power? No. absolutely not. Just that they are almost too nice to hide under a car. I can tell no matter what you use, it will turn out nice I am sure. Just thought I would mention it if you haven't seen their products before.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  20. #20

    Default

    Yes, Magnaflow makes some nice exhausts. A nice polished piece will look nicely under there, but Im not a huge fan of their sound. Im trying to not overthink the exhaust or spend much time on it. There's a chance it might not be on very long. I confident that I going to need something to shake down the suspension and brakes. It might stick around longer then that, but if the motor is going to come out, Im going to change things up.

    I appreciate nice stuff I guess. I want to know that it will work and last. I can settle on some things, but If Im going to second guess my choices, its going to slow me down or cost me even more money. I think the ways stuff looks really gets me. Im a visual person that likes to go fast.

  21. #21

    Default

    Update Time! Im alive, still working diligently, just not posting...sorry.

    I realized the PO never put in the plate between the transmission and the motor. I might have been fine, but I wanted to make it happen. I ended up pulling the trans out of the car. I cleaned it up, then paint . There was some other things I needed to do to it as well. Including a new pan gasket, bulk head fitting for the dipstick tube ( was cross threaded) and band adjuster nuts (leaking). Its not perfect but will get me through. Also had to put a new cooler line in as well. I have a leak from the rear tail and also the shift linkage. I noticed this once I got fresh fluid in it. Oh well!

    I then decided to do the upgrade to the cross member and mount while including a driveshaft safety loop. These are really nice pieces from Stifflers.

    After I was able to get the Off-road H-pipe in and Mac Pro dumps in. FYI you can not use the transmission exhaust hanger, Stiffers C4 mount together. I tried everything and went without. Also the dumps and CHE axle brace are not compatible. I had to "D" shape the turn down on the driver side.

    Polished my existing aluminum driveshaft...why not?!




















    If you are one like me and work on your car alone, consider these wheel cribs. They are super nice, safe and make great room under the car to work. When I called Race Ramps and asked if there was any difference between the wheel cribs and "flat stoppers", they said NO! So, if you have a car that is going to sit alot and has new/newer tires like me. This is a good way to keep them from flat spotting, too. Two birds, one stone. These are 10" H. They come in 8" and 12" as well.



    Got everything together and was able to get the car on the ground, change the oil, add some T-fluid and start the sucker. Of course I realized I had to charge the battery!!! Runs really well, no leaks and the exhaust is very nice.



    This is my G2 Gold Brake Paint applied to front 87-93 brake calipers. I did this to come close to the rears that are gold zinc coated. I think the G2 kit is the best out there. However the Gold is really thin. I took several coats to cover.



    So on to current dealings. New adventure for me. Front Suspension, brakes and steering. Step one complete: Rip everything out. SOme might hate me for saying this. For a northeast (Upstate New York) car, the K-member came right out. I broke all the nuts loose with a 15 inch breaker and grunt. Dropped it down with my jack and a 2x4 brace I made.





    Last edited by ev5oh; 06-09-2017 at 02:52 PM.
    1983 Ford Mustang GT | T- Roof | Polar White | Black Sport Interior

  22. #22

    Default

    I dont have any current pictures. However, I pulled the wheel well liners and all the brake lines. I will be running the rest of my Classic Tube stainless lines. I cleaned up the body from grease, over spray and dirt. It is also down to the factory E-coating. I have a few rust patches and will be hitting with a wire brush and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I'll di some touchup with by trusty drab green paint and should be ready to accept parts.

    Here is my hoard. This isnt all of it. I also got a lot of preassembly done that I need to take pictures of.



    Last edited by ev5oh; 06-09-2017 at 03:08 PM.
    1983 Ford Mustang GT | T- Roof | Polar White | Black Sport Interior

  23. #23

    Default

    Great thread with great progress keep up the good work. I am curious where in upstate NY this car was located?
    2015 Ford Fiesta ST
    2015 Jeep Renegade Latitude
    1997 Ford Explorer 5.0L
    1985 Ford Mustang GT
    1983 VW Rabbit GTi 16v
    1983 Mercury Capri CC

  24. #24

    Default

    This car was originally sold from Koener Ford in Geneva, NY. I guess it went through multiple hands before me. I purchased it in 1999 out of Webster, Ny. I lived my parents in Ontario, Ny at the time. I raced with MOMs (Mustang on Mustang) several years at NYIRP, Empire now in Street and Dot limited classes and did fairly well. I have some nice plastic trophies!
    1983 Ford Mustang GT | T- Roof | Polar White | Black Sport Interior

  25. #25

    Default

    Here is some more pictures of my pre assembly. I going to work on it today and get some picture of the body too.





    1983 Ford Mustang GT | T- Roof | Polar White | Black Sport Interior

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •