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Thread: Sagging door

  1. #1

    Default Sagging door

    I have the dreaded "sagging door" issue.
    wont close right. actually have to lift up on door to get it to shut correct & flush.
    door hinges look fine. door has never been off car or repaired.
    anyone repaired this issue or know best way of fixing?
    thanks
    1985 Mercury Motorsport Capri Registry
    Official Pace Car of the Mercury Motor City 100 - Grand Prix IV

    www.Motorsportcapri.com

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Open the door up, then reach under the end of the door and lift up. Does it have slop in the hinges?

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to change your pins and bushings.
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-BP7-K/79-93...hings-Set-Of-4

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
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    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  4. #4

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    It's probably the hinge pins. I've replaced them on both of the foxes I've owned. It's a fairly easy task to replace them, but I will say that if you use a dremel to cut the old pins out, you will definitely want the flex shaft, it makes it 1000x easier.

  5. #5

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    I have no idea what car ^^^ this guy changed them out on but this job is a HUGE PITA. Plan for 3-4 hours total start to finish if you do all 4. Maybe you will get lucky and yours have already been replaced and you can just replace them again. If not, prepare for a dirty, sweaty, loud several hours of sparks flying and grinding until your hand is numb. I had access to a pneumatic die grinder thankfully. That factory pin is a huge rivet and the metal is (understandably) extremely hard metal. You won't just "knock" it out of there. And heaven forbid if you have nice paint. You will have to remove the wheel and fender liner and unbolt the door from the A pillar to make room. If you don't care about your paint, you can beat the snot out of your door jamb and door while trying to knock them out.
    This is similar to a heater core project. $20 in parts and 5 hours labor.
    And as stated above, open the door and shine a flashlight at the lower hinge. Then have someone else just grab the whole door and pick it up and let it down a few times. You will see all the movement. Man it is sweet though when you get done and do the same and there is ZERO movement and the door makes a nice sound when it shuts. T Top cars are hard to get to close good and both of mine are BETTER than new now.
    Last edited by homer302; 06-30-2016 at 05:48 PM.
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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I always pick up older hinge pins and just buy new bushings. 79s had the clips on the pins, you don't have to cut them and the pins usually don't wear out. If you have to pick up on the door to close it, you need bushings.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I have no idea what car ^^^ this guy changed them out on but this job is a HUGE PITA. Plan for 3-4 hours total start to finish if you do all 4. Maybe you will get lucky and yours have already been replaced and you can just replace them again. If not, prepare for a dirty, sweaty, loud several hours of sparks flying and grinding until your hand is numb. I had access to a pneumatic die grinder thankfully. That factory pin is a huge rivet and the metal is (understandably) extremely hard metal. You won't just "knock" it out of there. And heaven forbid if you have nice paint. You will have to remove the wheel and fender liner and unbolt the door from the A pillar to make room. If you don't care about your paint, you can beat the snot out of your door jamb and door while trying to knock them out.
    This is similar to a heater core project. $20 in parts and 5 hours labor.
    And as stated above, open the door and shine a flashlight at the lower hinge. Then have someone else just grab the whole door and pick it up and let it down a few times. You will see all the movement. Man it is sweet though when you get done and do the same and there is ZERO movement and the door makes a nice sound when it shuts. T Top cars are hard to get to close good and both of mine are BETTER than new now.
    When I said easy, I really meant simple, it is a pita, but very straight forward. Also with knocking the old pins out, I found it easiest to get a large C clamp, and basically press the old riveted pin out. I've done this on a '93 that had factory hinges that sagged about 2 inches, and on my current '86 that have very minimal sag. I will say the '86 was much easier to remove the old pins and align the new ones.

    Another thing to note, is if the bushing has worn all the way through, it might be a good idea to go with an oversized bushing if the metal the bushing presses into has been deformed.

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