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  1. #1

    Default So.... mods for the Predator

    I have a few planned. Such as a top end and some motorsport "B" springs. maybe Bilsteins? Nothing radical. I will carefully store all the take offs.

    My question is subframe connectors. My Predator has T-Tops and with any kind of power this seems like a must. But that's not easily reversible. They would need to be painstakingly ground off to go back to stock.

    What are the thoughts on this one? Yes or no on connectors in terms of value?

    The car is completely stock at the moment.
    65 Fastback 302/T5
    82 Mustang GT
    84 Mustang Predator GT302H 4S-119

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    If you plan on driving it a lot, I would do the subframe connectors to keep the car solid.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member 02Z06's Avatar
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    My personal opinion, is that if you're not going to be driving the car hard (IE: slicks at a racetrack), don't do the connectors. The car is pretty flexible without them, but once added, everyone assumes the car was driven like it was stolen. And, they aren't easy to take off especially without leaving evidence behind. With those BFGs on it, you'll blow the tires off before you torque the body anyway - so I'd leave that part alone. You wouldn't put battle boxes or reinforced subframes on a '68 GT500 - I wouldn't do it on the Predator.
    Chris Lott
    '81 Cobra T-Top - Black
    '85 Dominator GT - Black, 24k miles
    '85 Predator GT302R #150R - Light Regatta Blue
    '85 Predator GT302 Convertible #119 - White w/blue stripes For Sale
    '86 Texas DPS Mustang (Unit # unknown) - undergoing resto

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I'd have to do it if it was driven a lot. My 84 has 260k on it and there are cracks in the floor and quarters and it ran most of its life with 205/70/14 tires and was not abused. This is a sunroof car too which is probably one of the strongest bodies these cars came with.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member
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    Man. If your going to do any actual other than a fun run drag/road racing do the subs. Bolt in at least. If only a once every now and then don't do it.
    1986 Saleen #26 - Saugus Pace Car
    1988 Range Rover Classic - The Shop Truck

  6. #6
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Unless you are going to drive more than 5k miles a year or so, every year, I wouldn't do subframes. Do they make a huge difference in the car? Yep! I recommend them as the first upgrade to any fox, be it a 4 cyl auto or a 5.0- except on very rare collector cars. I just wouldn't do it to yours- it's only unmodified once. Realistically, you will never drive it enough as a weekend, occasionally driven collector car to do any damage to the body at this point.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  7. #7

    Default

    All my foxes to date have gotten the battle box reinforcements and subframe connectors. The originality of the Predator rules out the battle box reinforcements in my mind. I'm certainly aware of the benefits of subframe connectors. I couldn't easily close the doors on my 82 when it was jacked up without them! I haven't checked for cracked floors but it wouldn't surprise me. My 82 had cracks near the seat mounts I had to weld from flex. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll probably do them. Although it alters the car and potentially diminishes value it also protects it and is the right thing to do for longevity. Realistically if anyone wants to concour the car they are going to have to "do" the underside anyway. Its solid and rust free but has 74K miles of wear and tear.
    65 Fastback 302/T5
    82 Mustang GT
    84 Mustang Predator GT302H 4S-119

  8. #8

    Default

    I had weld in subframe connectors on my 93 convertible. It helps a bunch in a vert. I would have to agree with 02Z06 that it will blow the tires loose far sooner than it will tweak the body. I had 425 to the wheels in my vert and hooked well I really had no choice. FWIW I vote to keep it stock underneath.
    1984 Predator GT302 #4S0102 - Complete rotisserie and put back to stock
    1979 Pace Car - 306, H/C/I, T5, 8.8, 3.73 - 288 RWHP
    1993 GT Vert - PROCHARGER P1SC, H/C/I, Built AODE, 3.73 - 421RWHP / 405 RWTQ - SOLD

  9. #9

    Default

    Does anyone have any advice on how to store the heads? They are coming off for a top end. I'm also assuming I should hit the OEM Cam with assembly lube & wrap it in plastic to store it.
    65 Fastback 302/T5
    82 Mustang GT
    84 Mustang Predator GT302H 4S-119

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