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  1. #1

    Default champion radiator overheating

    install champion three row radiator in 82 gt , refilled coolant ,took out for test drive , temperature shot up to hot ,top radiator hose fills like it is going to burst? i cycled the heat when refilling coolant, looking for a little help,thanks

  2. #2
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    No problems before? I know it is pretty easy to air lock these cars when draining the coolant. I tend to leave a heater hose off while filling it back up, until coolant starts to come out of it. It seems to help with burping the system. Also, did you do anything to the thermostat while you were in there?
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  3. #3

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    problems before , no i didnt do anything to theromstat, could it be the thermostat is stuck?

  4. #4
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    It could be stuck, it could be in backwards. Have the heads been off recently? New water pump? Changed belts/pullys? Anything like that?
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  5. #5

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    changed pulleys, checked them with engine running seams to be turning the belt fine,?,thanks

  6. #6
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Do you have the stock belt routing still, or did you change it? Underdrive pulleys, or stock? Do you have an automatic belt tensioner, or a manually adjusted one? Last, serpentine belt or v belts.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  7. #7

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    underdrive pulleys, ac is gone, automatic belt tensioner, serpentine belt,thanks

  8. #8
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    My first thought would be to see how much wrap you have on the water pump. If the problem only started once you changed the pulleys, I'd think about putting the stock pulley back on. Is the belt routing still the same, or did you run the belt differently to bypass the ac? A picture of your engine bay would be great. Also, do you have a clutch fan on it? Pretty good possibility the clutch could be gone if that is the case. Same with a shroud - if that is gone, that can cause problems.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  9. #9

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    car has electric fan ,belt routing is the same ,car had underdrive pulleys before ,just replaced with same size new set.

  10. #10
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Well, you're not making this easy. Lol. When did the overheating start? Just kind of started one day, or did you do ANYTHING to the car, and then it started? The fan is kicking on, but it's overheating anyway, right? I saw a thread earlier where you were looking for info on an intake install - was it already overheating before that, or did it start after.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82g View Post
    install champion three row radiator in 82 gt , refilled coolant ,took out for test drive , temperature shot up to hot ,top radiator hose fills like it is going to burst? i cycled the heat when refilling coolant, looking for a little help,thanks
    Refilled. Please describe exactly how you refilled before taking it for a test drive.

    Hot. Factory temperature gauge hot? A picture of the temperature sending unit and plug and wire would be nice. What was the car doing before the new radiator? The top radiator hose is supposed to become firm after a time of the engine running and pressure building up in the cooling system. Did the coolant overflow tank also overfill?

    The temperature sending unit should have resistances between it's (wire disconnected) top wire stud and ground of ~73Ω to register "Cold" on the factory gauge, and ~10Ω to register "Hot" on the factory gauge.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 06-26-2016 at 02:10 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
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    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  12. #12

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    lol, havent done intake yet, replaced radiator today ,pulleys, refilled coolant , took car for a short drive and temperature gauges is in the hot zone ,top radiator hose you cant even squeeze it ,it so tight, the pulleys and belt routing is the same, didnt h ave any overheating before radiator swap does this help?,lol

  13. #13

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    Let it cool and start it up and open the rad cap, and see if there's fluid movement in there.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
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  14. #14

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    Are you certain the belt routing is correct? I am wondering with all the changes if the belt got routed differently and the water pump is turning the wrong way.
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Are you certain the belt routing is correct? I am wondering with all the changes if the belt got routed differently and the water pump is turning the wrong way.
    here a picture of belt routing, not very good though, i can start car at idle with cap off fluid level drops, when i refilled turn heat on for awhile at idle speed for awhile and add more fluid? stock factory temperature gauge,
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  16. #16

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    Original engine (water pump)?

    As mentioned above, let it cool. Remove the radiator cap. See that it's about 3/4 full. Start the engine, maintain that 3/4 full in radiator. When thermostat opens, coolant level in radiator may go down. Add coolant back to 3/4 full. By your gauge (after checking it's function as outlined above) or by your eyes, allow the thermostat to open and close (you should see movement in radiator) a few times. When the engine's warmed up then, top up the radiator and put the cap back on, add or subtract coolant from the overflow tank so it's at Full Hot, THEN take it for a spin, and have a look at whether the level of coolant in the overflow tank has gone up or down, add or subtract as necessary.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 06-26-2016 at 04:37 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  17. #17

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    thanks, forgot to mention on short distance that i did drive it ,the heater blow hot air?

  18. #18
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    I have a similar problem on my 85. Everything was fine before the new radiator. I think mine was a Champion as well. I gave up on it for a bit but need to get back on it shortly. I ran it for quite a while without the cap on.
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  19. #19

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    Could you have a bad radiator cap? Just a thought.

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by 8550capri View Post
    Could you have a bad radiator cap? Just a thought.
    thanks, the cap is bran new came with the radiator.

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