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  1. #126

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    Between the heat and stuff I managed to mostly finish the bodywork. Fixing dents is an art form if you ask me, and I'm most definitely not an artist. But I think my hack bondo work won't be noticeable. I have to block off and bondo the antenna hole on the fender still. I screwed shut and bondoed over the fuel filler, so I'll have to pop the trunk every time I get gas. I plan on getting a shark fin antenna for the roof. I haven't researched it yet, but hopefully they make one that has a CB antenna along with FM/AM. I'd like to go old school and have a CB radio just for fun. I didn't spray the hood because it needs more attention, and I'm not sure exactly what I'll do with it.

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    I have some hood louvers to put on to help get the heat out, but the main problem is the intake and throttle body are too tall. Even if I get the thicker k member spacers it won't fit. I guess I'll have to get a hood scoop. Boo.

  2. #127

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boxtop78 View Post
    It's coming along nicely, can wait to it on the road do you plan on putting it on the road or is it more of a track Car? As you know California smog laws is tough as it is and I have read some articles on hot rod magazine that pre-'80 vehicles to be exempt from smog in 2018.if that's the case then I might want make mine fmont a daily driver instead of a track car. I could be wrong on this smog stuff.
    Its going to be a street car. Maybe a track day here and there, but we shall see. Thats what I said about my motorcycle, and it has never seen the track. I think I have a way around smog, but I'll have to research it some more. The smog laws are so lame and archaic. The mod (both modern and modular Ford) motor will be so much cleaner than the old I6, but CA requires everything from the donor car to be stock. As in the stock engine computer. I have to run the FRPP control pack, so its gonna be interesting when it comes time to register and smog it. The car will pass the sniffer test because I will have catalytic converters on it, but it will fail the visual test because it'll have the FRPP computer, not the factory one from a 2007 Mustang.

    There was a bill going through the CA legislature that would have made cars 81 and older smog exempt, but it didn't get out of committee. So for now in Kalifornia we are pretty limited as far as engine swaps are concerned.

  3. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    I'm doing a 3v swap in my 83 gt. I bought a set of Mac 2v headers with a set of kooks 3v flanges welded on. I'm going with the tr3650 as well, but I'm using a 01-04 cable clutch model.

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    Thats good to hear, I was thinking of doing the same thing. I'm just being cheap and waiting to find some used headers to cut up.

  4. #129

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    Wow I've been reading up on this thread. Very cool!

  5. #130
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Been pretty quiet in this thread for the past few months. Any progress to report?
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  6. #131

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    Been pretty quiet in this thread for the past few months. Any progress to report?
    Your psychic abilities are impressive... Back from the dead!!! When we last left off I was searching for cheap headers, and I FINALLY got some. I searched ebay and CL every day since August, and kept getting outbid on everything. I didn't want to buy good headers because I would have to cut them up and hit them to make them fit. I did not think it would take 4 months to find a set of SN95 2 valve longtubes, but whatever. That is only one excuse for not working on the car, I also went on a few vacations, which requires time and money. I bought a non-running truck and had to replace the engine. And of course I couldn't put a stock engine back in, so I upgraded a bit. Which took time and money. Once I got the truck running and driving I noticed that the rear axle was bent, so I replaced it. And of course I couldn't just swap out the axle itself, I had to swap in an 8.8 out of an Explorer with rear discs and limited slip. Which took time and money. It was also the holidays, which took time and money. And I had more house projects to do, which takes time and money. And the last excuse is that its winter. You people who live in the northern states don't know the about the harsh winters here in CA. I was working on the Fairmont today in sunny 60 degree weather. I had to put on a long sleeve shirt.

    Enough of the excuses, I'm back to being excited about working on the car. The engine and tranny are in for good (hopefully). I've got some modifying to the trans tunnel to fit the shifter to do, but that shouldn't be too much trouble. I bought a random clutch master cylinder that I've got to try and modify and make work as well. But the primary task is to get the headers to fit the engine and the chassis. The SN95 headers fit the chassis, but not the engine. So I bought a set of 4.6 3 valve flanges to weld on. I was hoping to get lucky and just weld the 3v flanges on the headers, but that made more fitment problems. And, if I cut off a bit extra of the tubes then it would suck the headers in towards the block a bit more, which is a good thing as there isn't much clearance between the frame rails and the headers. I made this high quality cutting jig with only the finest materials and cut the headers today.
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    Then I spent a few hours beating the tubes with a hammer to try and get a better fit, the 2v ports are circular whereas the 3v ports are d shaped. The passenger side is tacked together and in the car, and it seems to fit well. I have to clearance it a small amount where the k member bolts are. The drivers side is being stubborn and I'll need a friend to help hold the flange and pipes in place while it gets welded. And, I don't trust my welding skills on this at all. Gonna have to wait for my friend to help me out again, hopefully this coming weekend.

  7. #132
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Hey, I recognize that HF sawzall - I have one just like it. Haven't used it as a table saw, though. Pretty clever!

  8. #133
    FEP Member endub's Avatar
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    I like that sawzall trick too! I'll have to try that on something.

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  9. #134

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    The shifter is proving to be a bit more troublesome that I thought it would be. First the shifter base was too wide for the tunnel, but that was easily rectified by simply trimming the base to fit. The second problem is that when the shifter base is bolted to the trans, and then the trans is lifted back into position the arm for the shifter comes in contact with this nub sticking off the transmission as shown in the picture below.
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    Basically what is happening is that the shifter base on the left is in contact with the top of the tunnel already, and the trans in not in the crossmember. I have to raise it about an inch to get the bolts in. However, when I raise the tail of the trans up that nub comes in contact with the shifter arm. It seems like the only two options are to bend the shifter arm, which will probably be difficult to do, and will cause issues with the shifter linkage being not the correct length. Or, cut the nub off. I can't imagine that it actually does anything, but I am by no means a transmission expert. It certainly doesn't seem like there is anything internal going on in the nub.

    Stupid remote shifters... I'm assuming that the transmission tunnels for the S197 Mustangs are much more roomier than the Fox's, hence why I'm having issues.

  10. #135

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    Well, another few months have passed and not much progress on the Fairmont. The interior of my house looks nice though. But my pool is in poor condition and needs to be completely redone. Which will take lots of time and money. Such is life.

    Anyway, I finally was able to get the headers done and fit in the car. Mostly. I had to get a longer steering shaft and move the knuckle as close to the firewall as possible. I had to beat on tube #7 a bit as well. The biggest worry I have is the flanges have a bow in them and I'm concerned that they won't seal properly. Maybe once I crank down on the bolts and have a gasket in place it'll be fine.Name:  20180625_162544.jpg
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    If not I guess my two options are to get them decked at a machine shop, or buy a belt sander and take my time and try to improve them. Any advice?

  11. #136
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    How thick is that flange? How much gap do you have between the straight edge and the flanges on the ends? One method you may use is to clamp the flange down to something flat (assuming you can get it to clamp down flat to something), heat it, and let it cool in the clamped position.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  12. #137
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    It's hard to tell from the pic, but that looks like a pretty big gap on each end. I'm thinkin' that would be a bear to get to seal properly. Kevin's suggestion might work, but I've never tried such a thing, so I dunno.

  13. #138
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Agree with Kevin heat will probably be best bet, but you may need to heat up then clamp into position while heating.

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  14. #139

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    I never would have thought about the heat thing either. The flanges are 9.5mm thick. The worst gap is a hair under 2mm. I'm skeptical about heating and clamping them down, because wouldn't the non heated tubes still hold their shape and prevent the flanges from warping in the right direction? I've never tried anything like that so there is a good chance that I am not experienced enough to know better.

  15. #140
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    Those are pretty thick flanges, but that is a lot of material to remove to make them flat. My other concern with just machining them flat is how well the bolt holes will line up with the head. Can you mock them up against a head right now to see how far off they are?

    Do you know anybody that is good with metal working or a shop you can trust to have them try to straighten them with heat for you? I think the pipes will move enough to get that flange flat/straight.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '95 Saturn SW2
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  16. #141

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    I can get the headers bolted to the head no problem, and at first I thought it was a clearance issue with the headers fitting in the chassis. I ran down the bolts on #5 which increased the gap on #8, and I thought the gap was from fitment issues such as the tube for #7 hitting the motor mount. So I made some precision modifications with a hammer and the gap was still there, that is what lead me to lay a straight edge on the flange to see if they were warped. Maybe they are just cheap flanges, or maybe they got warped in the welding process. Either way, I'll look into a metal shop and see if they can help. Or go back to my friends who welded them and use his metal table and C clamps.

    Or buy a sander and start grinding away. I'm still open to that avenue. Don't think I can get to it for a few weeks tho, got lots of other stuff to take care of this weekend.

  17. #142

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    Myself....Id bolt them to a spare head on a bench, start bolts from center out, cut the outer tubes to allow the flange to be pulled flat, then weld tubes back up.
    Brian R. of Michigan
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  18. #143

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    Thanks to those who recommended the heat method, I got it to work and the flanges are much straighter and in acceptable limits. I also test fit everything and after a little more precision work with a hammer it all looks good. The steering shaft and the headers should play nice with each other, unless the brand new motor mounts let the engine flop around excessively, which I don't think will happen.

    Sunday I spent 6 hours working on the car! And when I say working on the car I mean cleaning the garage as it was a disaster and I couldn't find anything. Now that it is clean I rolled the car forward so I can work on the gas tank and getting that mounted and start to plumb the fuel system. I had originally envisioned building a cage out of square tubing to cradle the tank, but I think that will be overkill and will create lots of unnecessary work. So I'm now thinking of just using universal straps, like Dorman fuel tank mounting straps 03120. Its basically the rolled metal strips with holes in them so I can make them as long as I need. Since I have cut out the spare tire well in the trunk my plan is to just cover the hole with some sheet metal and have the tank supported from the bottom with the straps and seal it up as best I can. I'll still have to have access to the fuel filler which will be in the middle of the trunk area, plus the hoses and such will stick out a bit. I think it'll work.Name:  IMG_2130.jpg
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  19. #144

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrath of kyle View Post
    when I say working on the car I mean cleaning the garage as it was a disaster and I couldn't find anything.
    I can relate to that! I usually spend a good hour straightening things or digging through boxes and shelves on any given day of car work. SO frustrating!

    Your fuel system is looking good! If I were you though, I'd keep access to the top of that tank though. Maybe just make a smaller access panel or something.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #145

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    I will definitely leave an access hole to the gas tank, as that is the only way to fill it up since I blocked off the fuel door on the fender... And, the tank is in and most of the fuel system is plumbed. I'm still dealing with the headers, I had them all set and ready to go, but I went to put on the plug for the egr tube and it didn't fit due to the small amount of space to get the cap on. So I bent the egr tube a bit for some clearance, and ripped a hole where it attaches to the header pipe. So, back to my friends so he can weld it up.

    In the meantime, I got the last fuel fitting I need, and I am getting a driveshaft made. Or at least trying to. The driveline shop showed a different flange for the TR3650, so as soon as we figure out what I have then it'll get made. My goal is to try and buy one big ticket item a month. I started with the driveshaft because I don't know if it'll fit with the remote shifter, and the Mustang handbrake I retrofitted. There isn't much space in the tunnel and I might have to modify both those things to fit. Lets hope not. Next month I plan on buying a wiring harness.

    As far as the headers go, I went by a local shop to ask about ceramic coating, and they said $310. That would only be for the outside as well. I think I may skip spending the money to get them coated. Maybe later, but since I have done the fabrication on the headers and have beat on them with a hammer to get them to fit, I'd rather not spend the money for a fancy ceramic coating only to have the headers fail because of something I did. Header wrap doesn't seem like a good option either. Guess I'll just deal with a little more heat under the hood.

  21. #146

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    Well looky there, there are some headers, a steering shaft, and a fuel system. I've been slowly working on the car over the last month, but haven't been updating the build thread. Because laziness. Anyway, Headers are painted and in. Steering shaft is installed and loctited hopefully to never come loose. And the fuel system is plumbed. Hopefully it doesn't leak once I tighten the hoses down. I also got the driveshaft with the proper flange and it fits.
    The shifter seems like it'll be OK. I have to tighten everything down to see if anything interferes with each other. It'll be close. I'll have to modify the ebrake a bit, but I have an idea. I was browsing ebay for ebrake brackets for various cars and it looks like a bracket for a mid 2000's Honda will work, as long as the diameter of the holes is the same as the diameter of the brake cables I have. Slowly but surely getting there...Name:  IMG_2139.jpg
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  22. #147
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    I did some searching around on Ebay, looks like the wheels you ended up with are '13/14 V6 Premium wheels, 17x7" +40mm. (That size/offset appears to be common for the '10-14 V6s, but the style you've got appears to have only been available in '13/14.) I realize the car is still a work in progress, but can you comment on how much space you've got to the inside and outside with those wheels? And what size tire do you have on there now?

    Thanks!
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  23. #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    I did some searching around on Ebay, looks like the wheels you ended up with are '13/14 V6 Premium wheels, 17x7" +40mm. (That size/offset appears to be common for the '10-14 V6s, but the style you've got appears to have only been available in '13/14.) I realize the car is still a work in progress, but can you comment on how much space you've got to the inside and outside with those wheels? And what size tire do you have on there now?

    Thanks!

    My apologies for a very late reply, I started a new job this month and I've been occupied with that and working OT on the weekends. I haven't checked here in about a month.
    The front wheels barely clear the lip of the fender. I'll probably get the fenders rolled to give me some more clearance just in case. And my setup is an AJE K member, AJE tubular SN95 control arms, and 94/95 spindles. The rear suspension is the Cobra IRS which is supposed to be a bit wider than the stick axle, and the rear tires have about an inch of space before hitting the lip of the fender.
    And these rough measurements are with 225/50/17 tires on there. Once just about everything is done I plan on getting some spacers to make the width look even front and rear.

  24. #149
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    No worries on the delayed response, I'm in no rush on my car. Good to hear you've got decent room to work with the in the rear with the wider IRS. (It's supposed to be 1.5" per side wider than a Fox-length stick axle.) That's my main concern about going with IRS.

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