Close



Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 168
  1. #76
    FEP Super Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Roseburg Oregon
    Posts
    3,308

    Default

    The roof supports to roof skin gap , can be fixed with spray foam .
    Look at the bottom of the supports, and you will usually find several holes ..

    I used those holes to spray the foam into the void .

    I cut the excess from the area the next day for a clean job.
    I then used Styrofoam sheets in the b pillars , and the foil backed Styrofoam for the roof , to insulate and cut sound .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  2. #77

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    The roof supports to roof skin gap , can be fixed with spray foam .
    Look at the bottom of the supports, and you will usually find several holes ..

    I used those holes to spray the foam into the void .

    I cut the excess from the area the next day for a clean job.
    I then used Styrofoam sheets in the b pillars , and the foil backed Styrofoam for the roof , to insulate and cut sound .
    The spray foam is a great idea. When the time comes I think that will be the best option. Thanks for the tip!

  3. #78

    Default

    So I got around to putting the rear brakes on, and its nice how easy things go when you have the right parts. I first bought the cheap organic pads from Oreilly, and they didn't fit. As in the pads were too thick and I couldn't fit the caliper over the rotor. I ended up breaking the backing plate off of one of the pads, so I when I went to get a new set I opted for the ceramic pads. And when I compared them to the organic they were about 1mm thinner. So maybe I got a defective set of pads that were too thick. I don't really care because the brakes are on.Name:  IMG_1912.jpg
Views: 491
Size:  110.0 KB
    I also picked up some e-brake cables(hopefully those are the right ones) so I can try and figure out how to get those to play nice with the factory e-brake setup.

    Before that, its time to weld in the subframe connectors and POR 15 the rest of the underside. I mocked up the drivers side connector with the front in the proper position, and this is where the back ended up. I knew that they would be too short, but I didn't think that they would be off center so much.
    Name:  IMG_1915.jpg
Views: 491
Size:  77.5 KB

    I'm not sure how best to proceed. My plan was to cut the connectors and simply add in the appropriate length of similar tubing, then weld the connectors back together, then install them on the car. Should I try and address the curve when I weld the connectors back together? Or when its time to weld them to the car should I weld the front in place and then bend the connectors to fit onto the frame rail?

    And I'm waiting to get a second set of car ramps from my brother so I can have the weight of the car on the suspension when its finally go time.

  4. #79
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,953

    Default

    How I modded e-brake cables in my Fairmont: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...95#post1763795

    YMMV

    Mike

  5. #80

    Default

    Interesting about the old pads. That's pretty lame.

    I don't recall Eric The Car Guy necessarily running into the off-center problem with the MM full-length SFCs from his youtube video. I'm sure my car is like yours though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #81
    FEP Power Member uglybox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Well, I wish I would have trolled around some more before picking my username... sorry.
    Awesome build. Love it!

  7. #82

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by uglybox View Post
    Well, I wish I would have trolled around some more before picking my username... sorry.
    Awesome build. Love it!
    THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE UGLY BOX!!! Anybody remember the Highlander? They were awful...

    Anyway, after 2 weeks I finally made some progress. The MM subframe connectors were too short, and they didn't align with the frame rails as they should. They are for a Mustang, and the early Fox's are a little goofy as I have found out. So my solution was to get the same size rectangle tubing as the connectors, chop saw the connectors, and weld in about 5 inches to make them the correct length. In addition, I angled the extension pieces a bit inboard so that they lined up with the frame rails and didn't obstruct the channel for the rear control arms, or in my case the IRS chassis.
    Name:  IMG_1918.jpg
Views: 461
Size:  74.1 KB
    Name:  IMG_1926.jpg
Views: 455
Size:  58.7 KB

    The other problem I ran into was actually welding them together, and then onto the car. i have no experience welding, and I was just blowing holes through things. Which isn't a good thing if you were unaware. So I waited till my friend, who has quite a bit of experience welding, could come over and help/do most of it for me. He showed me how to adjust the settings based on what the metal was doing and taught me some of the techniques on how to weld. I did improve greatly, but we ran out of his time and welding wire. The passenger side is on the car, and I spent today painting the underbody with POR 15. Hopefully my friend can come back soon and we can finish up the subframe connectors, and the sway bar brackets. Once I get some free time I plan on making a separate post and detailing what I did to make Mustang subframe connectors work on a Fairmont. There were a few little things that I had to do in order to make them fit acceptably. Hopefully the chassis is done soon, because I got something else that will occupy my time...

  8. #83

    Default

    Engine stuff!!!

    I really love inline sixes, but the American ones are not very good, BMW's were too complicated/expensive, and the Jaguar was too rare and expensive. The Australian Barra I-6 would be perfect, but hard to find in the states, and probably impossible for me to make work with the absurd extortion smog laws in CA.

    I looked at getting a 5.3 LS engine, because there is something to be said for how cheap they are and how easy it is to modify them. They only need one camshaft. But, the only manual transmission offered with a LS is the 6 speed Tremec. Which is super expensive. I know you can get a bellhousing to mate whatever tranny to the LS, but then the price of the whole package gets to be quite a bit. And I don't like pushrods, those are for common folk. Sorry SBF....

    I would have been happy with either the 2.0 or just released 2.3 ecoboost 4 cylinder, because they make my target power level (250-300hp), are lighter than a V8, and should get pretty good gas mileage. But, the total cost of everything made me look elsewhere. $5000 for the engine and controls pack (for the 2.0 at least) is not terrible, but then I would still need a Miata tranny, clutch, AC compressor, and other bits. And I would have to deal with intercooler plumbing and things like that. I prefer naturally aspirated anyway.

    I would have liked the Coyote for sure, but those command a premium price for used engines still. In a few years when there are more in the junkyards those prices will come down obviously, but that doesn't do much good for me now.

    Ideally, the best engine for me would be the 3.7 out of the newer Mustangs, or Transit vans, or F-150's... Those things are everywhere, and they are cheap. The V6 Mustangs actually weigh less than the turbo 4, so they are lightweight. They are basically a 3/4 size Coyote, and they are narrower. 60 degrees vs 90. However, Ford doesn't make a controls pack for it, and I talked to a few tuner guys and both said don't try it.

    So that left one option, and it is a good option.
    Name:  IMG_1919.jpg
Views: 460
Size:  127.2 KB

    That is the red headed stepchild of the modular family, the 3 valve. Everyone is in love with the Coyote (for good reasons I might add) and the poor 3v is now overlooked. Which is great for me, because they are cheap. I got this one out of a wrecked 2007 Mustang with around 50k miles on it. It is absolutely complete. Intake to oil pan, all the accessories on the front of the motor are there, starter is there, 5 speed tranny with clutch is still attached, yoke on the tranny is there, engine wiring harness is there, pretty much everything that I need. $2340 total including shipping. So after I get the Ford controls pack for another $1500 or so, this should run no problems.

    Now the many questions are, do I throw performance parts at the motor? I'll get some headers for sure, but should I try and get a hotter set of cams? The Ford Racing intake and throttle body? Or keep the stock intake and get the charge motion plate delete kit? Underdrive pulleys?

    Decisions, decisions... But at least my engine has cam covers and not valve covers like the simpletons. If you'll excuse me I have a very expensive and trendy micro brew to drink out of a goblet now.

  9. #84

    Default

    Onto a more serious question, since I cannot fit a vacuum booster for the power brakes I am left with 2 choices, manual brakes or hydraboost. I was originally planning on manual brakes because I was leaning towards the 4 cylinder turbo and the car would have been stripped down and as light as possible. That is why I have a manual steering rack. The engine has a PS pump on it, and a quick search of a PS delete kit for the 3v yielded no results. So I'm wondering if I should either keep the manual steering rack and go manual brakes and try and find a way to run the belt without the PS pump, or should I abandon the manual steering rack for a power steering one and a hydraboost power brake setup. Or, should I keep the manual rack and just run the hydraboost power brakes?

    I'm not worried about steering effort in parking lots, or having to use a little more effort for the brakes, those things don't bother me. But I have read many many threads about manual brakes and veteran members here have not spoke glowingly of them. It would be nice to not have to modify the engine accessories and belt length as well. What says the community?

  10. #85

    Default

    Hydroboost and power steering. This is 2016, no reason not to build a civilized hot rod that doesn't put up a fight in steering or stopping, both of which are kind of important.

  11. #86
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    I agree with hydroboost, which is easy enough to snag out of a 96-04 GT with pedal box.
    However, if you decide to delete the power steering, look at the P/S delete for the Focuses, I'm *reasonably* sure that the pump body is the same size and you'll just have to figure out a different belt length (because the pulley is different; I don't recall by how much).

  12. #87

    Default

    After doing a few hours of reading and researching it seems like hydraboost is kinda a pain in the butt. You either need to get the SN-95 pedals and mate them with the Fox pedals, or cut off the end of the SN-95 pushrod (the piece that attaches to the brake pedal and goes into the booster) and weld it to the Fox pedal. Others have said that they used hydroboost without modification of the pedals or anything like that, but the angles are off so the pushrod for the brakes isn't quite right. Then there is the issue of all the plumbing for the booster and the power steering. And I'm not sure if the PS pump for the 3v will be sufficient for a hydroboost setup. It seems like its too much trouble.

    I also recall, on my 67 Mustang, the power steering was ridiculous. I couldn't feel a thing it was so overpowered. Plus I kept burning PS hoses on my headers. I'm assuming that Ford figured out how to make power steering better once they went to rack and pinion, because I ditched the PS on my 67 and went with a manual setup. It was much better.

    Plus, it looks like all I need to do in order to eliminate the PS pump on the 3v motor is to get a shorter belt. It needs a new belt anyway, might as well get a shorter one. Plus, I already have a Flaming River manual rack with the good steering shaft, I'd have to sell those and figure out which power rack to get, get a hydroboost setup, figure out the fittings (metric vs standard), figure out the hoses, and do the stuff with the pedals and such. I'm a big time cyclist, so a little extra leg effort doesn't bother me. Eventually I plan on putting on a tow hitch so I can mount a bike rack. Plus, like my old Mustang's power steering, sometimes power brakes leave you with no feeling of the car and what it is doing. Manual things usually feel better, but at the cost of comfort. I'm still young enough to not care. For now at least...

  13. #88

    Default

    Congrats on the engine purchase!

    Didn't 3V powered Mustangs have hydroboost? Reasonably sure they did. Also no comparison between '67 and '07 power steering feel, I'm sure. Ford is known for it's good steering these days.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #89
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    I'd again suggest getting the steering rack, pump, reservoir, lines, hydroboost and pedal box from a 96-04 GT parts car.

  15. #90

    Default

    Its been an entire month since I've been here... Lazy... Sort of. Not much progress in a sense. I think I figured out why the car was taken off the road back in 86. The car belonged to a grandpa, and I'm pretty sure that he lost his license after running into everything with every panel on the car. There were dents all over, and thats what I have been trying to get done in the last month. I'm also not all that good at bodywork, so its taking more time than it should. But its getting there, and I need to go buy some real primer and not the rattle can stuff. I actually tried to order some from Summit last night, but since I live in the land of Hippies in CA it can't be shipped here. Is there that big of a difference between CA compliant paints/primers and the regular stuff? As in, is it worth a 3 hour drive to Reno to buy it or just get the CA legal stuff.

  16. #91

    Default 4 months and one remodeled kitchen later

    I now FINALLY have the time to get back to the car. I discovered a big water leak in my kitchen and ended up having to tear just about everything out. Which took lots of time and money. But its mostly all done, and I can now spend some time on the car again. I think I have just about everything to finish up the brakes now. Lets hope everything fits.Name:  IMG_1958.jpg
Views: 361
Size:  95.8 KB

  17. #92

    Default

    Bummer about your kitchen. Sometimes home ownership is the worst. We have a big wet spot under our siding on one side of the house we get to deal with. That can't be good...

    Good luck on your brakes!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #93
    FEP Super Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Roseburg Oregon
    Posts
    3,308

    Default

    The hydro boost system is a snap to retrofit, as long as you are the guy, that removes the parts you need from a donor car.
    When I swapped the 32 valve into my 91 , I used it and the abs.
    With the IRS and Cobra front brakes , that car handles amazingly , and stops on a dime .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  19. #94
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    House. Ugh.
    Been working on mine extensively for years now. Haven't lifted a wrench to the Zephyr since I moved. Don't even have a spot for it in my yard yet.
    Glad you got it sorted, so I can watch you build your car again!

  20. #95
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Congrats on the engine purchase!

    Didn't 3V powered Mustangs have hydroboost? Reasonably sure they did. Also no comparison between '67 and '07 power steering feel, I'm sure. Ford is known for it's good steering these days.


    Yep, but its s197 frame, not Fox 4/SN95, so a little bit of work is needed to fit the Fox .


    Typical of Fords

    J code 302 Windsor 4V 230 hp of 1968
    M code 351 Windsor 4V of 1969
    the 350hp 1971 and 380 hp 1972 M code 351 4V Cleveland engines


    Ford Australia used the US engines before the Americans did.

    Although they say the 3-valve SOHC 4.6 L with variable camshaft timing (VCT) first appeared in the redesigned 2005 Ford Mustang, it actually was a late 2003 Australian addition to the BA Falcon as a completely new electrnic throttle V8 power plant, displacing 5.4L, and based on the US modular V8 engine series as a 3-valve SOHC 5.4 L with variable camshaft timing (VCT).



    It was rated down to 295 hp, similar to the much later 2009 F150/250 truck engine.


    Same issues, fitting eveything in to the firewall and hydrobost.


    I'd suggest a whole swap over. Electroninc throttle has similar issues. If you go 100% factory, then the CA engine swap over will be a cinch.




    Its easier becasue you can get the parts easily, and Modular swappers just use the SN 95 parts anyway.


    Going to unassisted brakes or steering won't help you, since the whole system already has the parts for it. You just have to network to get 'em cheap.


    Do a deal somehow. Some wreck somewhere, or a board post , you'll get the parts nailed for almost zero.

  21. #96

    Default

    I want this car to be budget and simple. In the sense that I don't want power locks, power windows, power seats, power steering , or power brakes. Even tho I went through the hassle of putting the more complicated IRS in, I'm a big believer in the KISS method, keep it simple stupid. The car will be light enough that not having power steering or brakes won't matter. The huge Cobra brakes stopping a less than 3000lbs car shouldn't be an issue at all. I know I can get all the required parts for hydraboost and power steering for not much, but I already have the manual rack and pinion, and now I have the manual brake conversion kit. So its gonna stay that way.

    I went to start bending brake lines over the weekend and I checked the fittings that came in the kit I bought, and I don't have any that fit the master cylinder. They fit the proportioning valve, but not the master. Then I remembered that I saved the original brake lines and hopefully those fittings are salvageable, or at least it will make getting new ones easier because I can bring them into a store and match them up. The only problem is the old brake lines are buried underneath all the debris from the kitchen. Looks like I have to make a dump run soon.

  22. #97

    Default Hopefully someone from the rust belt can chime in

    The kit I bought for the brake lines was for 1/4" brake lines, and since it was $30 cheaper than the 3/16" brake line kit I thought bigger was better and obviously got the 1/4". But it proved to be more of a pain in the butt, so I sent that back to Summit and got some 3/16" stuff. While I was waiting for the new brake stuff to arrive I thought I would be useful and paint the engine because I'd like to try and see if that fits. I'm assuming the K member I have is for a 302, not a modular. So I'm also assuming that I will have to get some K member spacers because the motor will be sitting pretty high. Anyway, I labeled the wiring harness and took that off, and it was easier to remove the starter than disconnect the wires. Once I got the starter out, this is what I found behind it.
    Name:  IMG_1960.jpg
Views: 282
Size:  147.7 KB

    That is one rusty flywheel. The engine came from Michigan, and I'm really hoping that is "normal." In the sense that untreated steel will rust in the snow and salt and such. Not that the motor I bought came from a flood damaged car and the inside of the motor looks similar. The auction I bought it from had a picture of a wrecked Mustang, so I'm pretty sure that I'm just being paranoid. But if anyone else has seen something like this let me know and put my fears to rest. So I separated the motor and tranny, and now I'm looking to get a new clutch and aluminium flywheel just because. I did paint the engine Ford blue of course, and the paint took to pretty much everything just fine. Except the valve covers. They orange peeled like crazy, and it looks awful. Not sure why, but I guess I'll have to sand it down and try again.

  23. #98

    Default

    Good to hear you're making progress. I'd love to see a pic of the engine.

    What k-member do you have again? Maybe you could hunt down a '96-04 one for a 4.6.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  24. #99

    Default

    double post

  25. #100

    Default One step forward, three steps back

    Well, I finally got around to bending my brake lines and everything was going smoothly. I got everything bent and mocked up and fitted from the master to the proportioning valve, then out to the front wheels and the line for the rear wheels. Then I took one of the front and rear stainless lines to the calipers to the parts store to get the proper fittings. The rear lines I have came with the calipers from Ebay, and they use some goofy bubble flare that I can't make with my lame summit tool. Which sucks, but its not a big deal. I was looking forward to completely finishing the front brake lines today, but the brand new brake lines from Summit are wrong. Unless Ford decided that between the driver and passenger side they would use 2 different sizes of fittings. So now I have to return those. At this point in time, I think I'm just going to have the guy I've been working with make me some lines. At least I'll know that they will fit.

    So with my extra free time I thought I would throw the motor in.

    Name:  IMG_1962.jpg
Views: 254
Size:  122.3 KB

    And it doesn't fit. It looks like it fits, but the oil pan is sitting on the k-member. Its a Griggs Racing k-member and its most likely for a 302. I'd like to avoid having to get another k-member as I have put new delrin bushings and ball joints in the control arms for this one. I may be in luck, because I found some spacers that go between the motor mount plates and the motor mounts.

    http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...unt-shims.html

    I'll give Griggs Racing a call and see if they have any advice as well. One step forward, 3 steps back. Such is life sometimes.

Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst ... 23456 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •