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  1. #1

    Default Need help with wheel hop.

    81 Capri with 5.0, t5, and posi out of a mustang around the
    Same era. Always had wheel hop, so I got some tubular upper and lower control arms with new bushings and I can't tell if it even helped at all. The shocks are probably
    Worn, and I'm unsure of the conditin of the coils but I was under the impression that the control arms would pretry much eliminate the hop.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    It all depends on which control arms you purchased. The wheel hop on the old fox body cars is mostly from worn out parts and questionable geometry. The "fix" for the 84 and earlier fox body's was the factory slapper bars on the GT / RS cars which didn't really work after a few 1000 miles because they would bend and lose tension after you put some miles on them. The late 84 SVO was the start of the quad shocks system which helped a little but there was still a noticeable amount of wheel hop after some miles and you can forget about any big tires with this setup.

    You can't go wrong with a set of high quality rear control arms! If you bought cheap ones, this is the reason you still have wheel hop. I would recommend a set of the Maximum Motorsports adjustable rear control arms. They are one of the best on the market and I have heard they alleviate a lot of the wheel hop issues.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/He...1998-P523.aspx

    You could also go with a set of Lakewood Mustang Traction Bars. They are great if you're just looking to alleviate the hop problem but you will sacrifice ride quality with a set of these bad boys. They were kind of the last resort thing I went to when chasing down the bad wheel hop problems I had on my RS. I tried changing the bushings first and then went to Ford Racing "C" springs and added coil-over rear shocks as well to try to fix the problem. None of those things fixed the problem. They reduced it but didn't eliminate it. I added the Lakewood bars and the hop is completely gone! Of coarse my car rides like a stagecoach now LOL but I can burn the tires off the rims with no hop!

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/la...FVBbfgod8vcPPw

    I also bought a set of the MM lower control arms I listed up above but my hop was gone by that time so I have no idea if they would have fixed the problem by themselves alone but I have heard others say that they alone fixed other peoples wheel hop issues. I will find out soon enough when I pull the Lakewood bars off my car when I get my rear end narrowed.

    Hope this helps,
    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  3. #3

    Default

    The control arms I bought were SVE Control arms from late model restoration. I had heard some good things about them. However, recently I noticed that when the car has 3 or more people in it, it'll spin the tires with very little or no hop. So im thinking adjustable control arms would probably solve my problem so I can adjust the angle of the axle and driveshaft.

  4. #4

    Default

    Try some new shocks first.
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  5. #5
    FEP Member
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    Re-installing the quad shocks solved my wheel hop.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80s5.0 View Post
    The control arms I bought were SVE Control arms from late model restoration. I had heard some good things about them. However, recently I noticed that when the car has 3 or more people in it, it'll spin the tires with very little or no hop. So im thinking adjustable control arms would probably solve my problem so I can adjust the angle of the axle and driveshaft.
    The issue is most likely your new control arms. The SVE units use poly bushings at both ends with just standard style bushings which is one of the main issues. The other issue can be that you installed the SVE upper control arms too. Unfortunately poly bushings in the uppers is not a good thing, although many of the aftermarket vendors will lead you to believe otherwise.

    I would recommend educating yourself on the Mustang's rear suspension and the issues with modifying it by reading the links here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...susp_rlca.aspx and here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/faq_rlca.aspx

    I would do that before you throw any additional parts or money at the car. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Another basic thing to not overlook is tire pressure.

    Wheel hop is what happens when one wheel pushes forward so violently that it causes the tire to distort and tire on the opposite side to lose traction. You will bear less weight on the left rear than the right rear during.a hard launch. You can adjust tire pressure to end up with the exact right forward force on both sides so the axle doesn't shake as one side tries to pass the other. Weight inside the car influences what is right

    I broke the limited slip in my Mustang a long time ago due to wear. That caused me to experiment with tire pressure. I found that 2 PSI difference was the ticket and I could still lay down two solid strips of rubber even with an open rearend, and no shake. If memory serves me correctly, RR was at 27, LR was at 29.

    these days I am back to having aworking limited slip again, but tune by tire pressure if I ever feel any shake. It works for me.

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