Where do I start trying to get rid of the rattles in my 86 vert?

[86 GT Vert Dude]

The obvious to me is hinge pins and bushings, but my doors have no sag to them. Next is the plastic on the strikers, but these are intact also. I'm assuming it's the windows (manual) because with them partially down I got a hell of a lot of noise today. What will make them more secure? What else should I be looking at?

[brianj]

Do you have welded in subframe connectors in the car? Probably the best start, especially in a convertible.

[smitty54]

The windows are a big part of it. Check the guide rod bushings.

[86 GT Vert Dude]

The windows are a big part of it. Check the guide rod bushings.

Will do, thanks.

[wraithracing]

The windows and tracks are generally a source of a lot of rattles and noise in all the foxes, especially convertibles and T-top cars. New bushings, door channel run weatherstripping, proper adjustments, etc. will help to alleviate many of the issues.

Installing a set of weld in full length subframe connectors is the best option to help prevent the noises due to the wet noodle structure of the OEM unibody. I also highly recommend a strut tower brace for the convertible and T-top cars as that will help get rid of the dreaded cowl shake when going over big speed bumps, rail road tracks, etc. A 4 point K member brace is another great addition to any of the foxes.

I personally only recommend Maximum Motorsports as they make the best quality parts for the price out there. Don't waste your time on bolt in subframe connectors as they will elongate the holes over time and loosen up. Don't waste your time on STB that just bolt to the upper cowl sheet metal as that provides no structural support for the brace. The brace needs to bolt to the holes in the pinch weld where the upper cowl, lower cowl, and firewall all come together its the strongest point available for support and structure.

Best of Luck!

Trey

[TenHoleMafia]

A combination of a loud exhaust and loud rock music..works for me.

[86 GT Vert Dude]

The windows and tracks are generally a source of a lot of rattles and noise in all the foxes, especially convertibles and T-top cars. New bushings, door channel run weatherstripping, proper adjustments, etc. will help to alleviate many of the issues.

Installing a set of weld in full length subframe connectors is the best option to help prevent the noises due to the wet noodle structure of the OEM unibody. I also highly recommend a strut tower brace for the convertible and T-top cars as that will help get rid of the dreaded cowl shake when going over big speed bumps, rail road tracks, etc. A 4 point K member brace is another great addition to any of the foxes.

I personally only recommend Maximum Motorsports as they make the best quality parts for the price out there. Don't waste your time on bolt in subframe connectors as they will elongate the holes over time and loosen up. Don't waste your time on STB that just bolt to the upper cowl sheet metal as that provides no structural support for the brace. The brace needs to bolt to the holes in the pinch weld where the upper cowl, lower cowl, and firewall all come together its the strongest point available for support and structure.

Best of Luck!

Trey

Wow, a wealth of info there, thanks Trey. I have a friend with a 220 volt commercial welder, but he doesn't have a lift. I have 5 ton jackstands for trucks, and that gets the car pretty high, but what's underneath that I need to be concerned with? Is it near the gas tank? Does it have to come out? Does the carpet need to come out? He's a talented welder, so he can do the job, but I'll need to make sure I have everything properly prepped for him. Thanks

[GliDeThuNDeR]

As another '86 Vert daily driver.... I recommend these: http://www.autozone.com/sandpaper-an...eVehicle=false

[84StangSVT]

As another '86 Vert daily driver.... I recommend these: http://www.autozone.com/sandpaper-an...eVehicle=false

I thought the same thing when I had my 84 vert.

Seriously though, making sure the guide rod bushings, window to frame bushings, window mechanisms, door window run channel and even the dew wipes are in good shape will help tremendously. While a vert is notorious for having extremely noisy doors as compared to a coupe/hatch, they can be made tolerable with putting a little time and money in them to put them back to "like new" specs.

[wraithracing]

Wow, a wealth of info there, thanks Trey. I have a friend with a 220 volt commercial welder, but he doesn't have a lift. I have 5 ton jackstands for trucks, and that gets the car pretty high, but what's underneath that I need to be concerned with? Is it near the gas tank? Does it have to come out? Does the carpet need to come out? He's a talented welder, so he can do the job, but I'll need to make sure I have everything properly prepped for him. Thanks

Sorry! I missed your reply and I am late to the party at this point.

Installing SFC without a lift can be done, but it's a major PITA! You will want to get the car as high as possible to give as much room to work as you can. I have found that 2x4/2x6 wood cribbing placed under each wheel is the best option for overal height, support, and ease of use.

I won't say it's absolutely necessary to remove the carpet, but it's not a bad idea to be safe. All the welding should be on the frame rails that don't contact the carpet, but very often there are rips or tears in the floor pan that should be repaired at the same time as the SFC are installed. I personally remove my carpet to be safe.

You will not be near the gas tank so there are no concerns there.

If you look here in my thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...s-begun!/page4 starting at post #98 you will see how the MM SFC install. Obviously much easier when the car is on it's side, but this will give you a visual of how everything goes. Good Luck!

[erratic50]

Hearing protection indeed. Lol.

Fuel lines are something to be aware of with SFC and weld in K member bracing, etc. I wrapped mine in beer cans metal protecting wet shop rags - used tie wire to hold it. I did that when I welded up my K member's oblonged A arm bolt holes. Worked like a champ. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I would get the braces with seat mounts as they take a lot of shake out of the floor pan. It doesn't do much structurally but it does inspire driver confidence as there is about a 5x reduction in in-the-car seat movement.

Pay attention to what they are made of. Mild steel vs cold vs moly, etc. huge differences in overall strength. Remember not to go too hot on the welder too - the "frame" is just a little thicker sheet metal really.

Ive had HPM SFCs welded into my car for many years. Paul made a quality product. May he RIP.

As far as I'm concerned they should have had them some form of weld in SFC and bolt in STB from the factory.

Happy welding and good luck!