intake manifold sealant

[82g]

I went to Lowes and bought four 5/16x18 bolts that were 4 inches long, cut the heads off and rounded the ends a bit with a grinder. I didn't bother to cut screwdriver slots in them as I only put them in finger tight and they are easy to back out after the intake is in place.

thanks

[gr79]

Pilot studs are a great idea
We used similar on the DEP line
FE/FT has a manifold with dist hole
So they had a tool that looked like a tapered metal trans plug.
It inserted in the dist hole.
We had 2 workers on that station that took turns dropping.
One dropped, one worked the pilot tool
Stuck it in, drop intake, remove and install in next engine.
The engines were traveling backwards from right to left.
The only way there could be a misdrop is when they did not use the tool.
Which was done every now and then. They were good and missed very very few.
It was ok as long as the next station could tighten the intake bolts without the manifold moving.

[banzaibullitt]

I used the good Explorer/Cobra Felpro gaskets and installed them dry except for the corners where the "china rails" and heads meet. I also made alignment studs from bolts to make the installation much easier.

[82g]

I used the good Explorer/Cobra Felpro gaskets and installed them dry except for the corners where the "china rails" and heads meet. I also made alignment studs from bolts to make the installation much easier.

i dont know if it makes a difference, just got off phone with edelbrock, they told to never use a steel core gasket with any aluminum intake?

[Walking-Tall]

i dont know if it makes a difference, just got off phone with edelbrock, they told to never use a steel core gasket with any aluminum intake?

You question Edelbrock? The rest of what they didn't tell you is why. Galvanic corrosion, between dissimilar steel and aluminum, is why.

[JACook]

So, ask yourself why so many automobile manufacturers have done exactly that for decades? And how is
it any worse than having that cast iron cylinder head another .020" away? And btw, the steel core in a good
quality gasket is stainless.

Edelbrock told me to use the Felpro 1250s, with a liberal coat of Gasgacinch on 'em. That was the last time
I ever listened to them.

Now, if they had told you to never use a steel-faced gasket with an aluminum intake, they would have made
a few points back.

[854vragtop]

Permatex Ultra series is the best RTV that I've used. Ultra Blue for most everything and Ultra Copper for high heat areas. On my last rebuild of my '85 5.0L with GT-40P heads, I used the Explorer gaskets with the silicone end seals. They worked and still work great. On prior 302/5.0L builds, I ditched the cork end gaskets after watching them slide into the lifter valley a bunch of times. The solution was to run two beads of Ultra Blue stacked on each other like a figure 8 and to let them "skin over" for 15 minutes or so before setting the intake down. Squeeze out was even, but very minimal.

[85stanggt]

I just bought a set of MS95952 Explorer intake gaskets for my 85. Haven't done the job yet, but the difference in gasket quality is very noticeable. I had used Felpro 1250 last time I did this 10 years ago with sealer, but this last winter must have broken a seal with the cold weather and the front coolant passage is leaking. The $10 premium is absolutely 100% worth it for the side gaskets and rubber end gaskets.

Cork gaskets suck. Spend the extra money for the Explorer set and use the nice rubber gaskets. The side gaskets are steel core with a sticky-ish composite material on either side. I don't see how that could cause any corrosion, as the steel is not in contact with aluminum intake.

In terms of install, everyone seems to have their way. With these Explorer gaskets, I will not use anything on the side gaskets. For the end gaskets I'll use a thin coat of RTV on each side. From my experience with BMW rubber gaskets, I clean both surfaces exceptionally well with Simple Green and then brake cleaner. I coat either side of the gasket with Permatex black (maybe gray?), just a very thin, uniform, continuous coat -- no breaks in the coating. Tighten the piece down until you see the RTV just squeeze out. Leave for 1-2 hours according to Permatex instructions and then torque down. I believe they recommend waiting 24 hours before putting back into service. I stopped getting leaks on BMWs when I started this method. If you don't use a lot of it, it won't be super messy. It acts like a glue to adhere the gasket to the metal surface and fills in small imperfections.

[JACook]

For the end gaskets I'll use a thin coat of RTV on each side.

Don't do it. Follow the instructions FelPro gave you on the paper that's in the box with your gaskets. Those
end seals are designed to be installed dry, and they work very well. A small dab of sensor-safe silicone at the
corners is all you want.

[dynodon64]

Any gasket is designed to be a seal, therefore using RTV on one or both sides is stupid. The gasket is the seal, it doesn't need RTV to seal. You either use the gasket or the RTV, not both. This goes for any gasket. Never use RTV on head gaskets or the intake side gaskets. As already mentioned, only a small amount in the corners to seal the two gasket together.

For the regular paper gasket used for the water pump and timing cover, I would use grease on both sides , just enough to wet it out, will seal just fine, and will allow easy removal in the future. Something I learned from my dad 40 years ago.

[82g]

Any gasket is designed to be a seal, therefore using RTV on one or both sides is stupid. The gasket is the seal, it doesn't need RTV to seal. You either use the gasket or the RTV, not both. This goes for any gasket. Never use RTV on head gaskets or the intake side gaskets. As already mentioned, only a small amount in the corners to seal the two gasket together.

For the regular paper gasket used for the water pump and timing cover, I would use grease on both sides , just enough to wet it out, will seal just fine, and will allow easy removal in the future. Something I learned from my dad 40 years ago.

i got a set of felpro 1250 with my edelbrock intake ,plan on using them since i already have them ,instead of buying another set, anyone know where i can get a set of rubber end seals only ?,thanks

[grabbergreen84]

Junkyard is the best place to get just the seals. You'll have to do some serious digging, but the yard might just give them to you.

My only experience with them was when I pulled my heads off of a Mercury Moutaineer, and I was so impressed with them, that I'm pretty sure I used them when I put my engine back together with those heads... I definitely brought them home!

I wonder if you can just scrape the RTV, or whatever that is, off of the old OEM Exploder/Mountaineer intake port gasket 'plates,' apply a new bead, and reuse them as well!

[JACook]

i got a set of felpro 1250 with my edelbrock intake...

I strongly advise you do not use those, unless you really want to do the job twice. Seriously. The 1250s
are the absolute worst choice for a small-block Ford. They are not designed for engines that are expected
to stay together for long periods of time. The 1250 S-3 version has a stainless steel core, and those hold
up better, but the Explorer gaskets are still a better choice.

IMO, everyone that has ever used FelPro 1250s are in one or more of the following groups:

• Those who have had them leak coolant
• Those that will have them leak coolant
• Those that don't realize that theirs are already leaking coolant

[82g]

I strongly advise you do not use those, unless you really want to do the job twice. Seriously. The 1250s
are the absolute worst choice for a small-block Ford. They are not designed for engines that are expected
to stay together for long periods of time. The 1250 S-3 version has a stainless steel core, and those hold
up better, but the Explorer gaskets are still a better choice.

IMO, everyone that has ever used FelPro 1250s are in one or more of the following groups:

• Those who have had them leak coolant
• Those that will have them leak coolant
• Those that don't realize that theirs are already leaking coolant

ok sir u talked ne into it, what is the # for the explorer gaskets ,thanks

[82g]

any lastly these will work on a 82 ,5.0? thanks

[JACook]

There's a couple choices. You can get the side gaskets bare, under Ford Racing part number M-9349-G50,
about $11 at Summit. Or the FelPro set, MS95952, which should set you back about $22 or so. The Ford
Racing ones are the way to go if you're going to use silicone in place of the end seals. If you want some
really nice end seals, the FelPros are the way to go.

Yes, these will fit everywhere those 1250s would. If you buy the FelPro set, you'll get a few extra pieces
is all.

[78futura]

Ultra black on the ends. Cork gaskets are junc never had any luck with any cork gasket ever!

[81coupe]

Ultra black on the ends. Cork gaskets are junc never had any luck with any cork gasket ever!

In my case, this also holds true. The Cork end Gaskets move about sometimes and never seal. I just use a bead of RTV on the end rails and have never had a problem.

[82gt50]

You question Edelbrock? The rest of what they didn't tell you is why. Galvanic corrosion, between dissimilar steel and aluminum, is why.

OMG! What am I going to do about these steel bolts holding the aluminum intake down? What about the steel heater hose outlet screwed into the intake? LoL just being a smart ass.

Sometimes we overthink things. Ask 10 engineers what the best design is and you'll get 10 different answers, and their arguments on why each one is right. Millions of 302s were built with cork end gaskets and they sealed just fine. Are newer materials better? Someday if my cork ones start leaking I'll try them.

Guys driving 2016 Mustangs might argue that everything on our 35 year old cars is an "inferior outdated design" and intake ends gaskets are the least of it!

[JACook]

The end seals in the Explorer manifold gasket set are nothing like cork, nor are they anything like the older
composite seals that never wanted to stay in place.

Debating against cork intake manifold end seals really is beating a dead horse, because like most everything
else, automotive engine sealing technology has advanced quite a lot over the years. I've seen great success,
and problems with all of the proposed solutions over the years, and I have no axe to grind with any of them,
even cork. But time marches on. (Anyone that -hasn't- used the one-piece molded oil pan gaskets yet? Really?)

Use whatever you like, just be aware there may be newer choices available that don't come out of a tube.

[Walking-Tall]

OMG! What am I going to do about these steel bolts holding the aluminum intake down? What about the steel heater hose outlet screwed into the intake? LoL just being a smart ass.

Sometimes we overthink things. Ask 10 engineers what the best design is and you'll get 10 different answers, and their arguments on why each one is right. Millions of 302s were built with cork end gaskets and they sealed just fine. Are newer materials better? Someday if my cork ones start leaking I'll try them.

Guys driving 2016 Mustangs might argue that everything on our 35 year old cars is an "inferior outdated design" and intake ends gaskets are the least of it!

I was being a smartass too, and where you'll get my vote for cork is for transmission pan gaskets. That, and a skin of RTV on the pan side. Why? Because I've done it oodles of times, and all is well. Edelbrock's head has been in it's a$$ for a very long time, going the way of McD's wanting to corner the market on everything besides it's poison burger and fries. I was just telling you why Edelbrock probably told you what they did, as to steel and aluminum. Concern gets lost in details, wrapped up in the bottom line, and reality goes out the window.

I'll probably get flack for the following too, but guys driving 2016 Mustangs who might dare to give advice to do-it-yourself-ers working on 30 year old vehicles wouldn't know their a$$e$ from a hole in the ground either.

[81coupe]

Even though some may use RTV as a Gasket for the end Seals and some don't, doesn't really matter IMO. What works is what works, and whats best to use, ect. It all comes down to Money, and what you have to work with at that time. I for one only use this trick because it works. Now on the other hand I would never do this to other gaskets. To me each gasket and Seal has a certain requirement to Seal. Like JACOOK mentioned, the One piece gasket. I've never seen it, but however I'm sure a one piece gasket would seal better then any other method. For instant, when I went with a one piece oil pan Gasket, It was the greatest thing, lol. No more freaking leaks and it's held for years now. Some things I'm old school with, But with others I'm always looking for a new way or better ways to do things. But, However. Time, Money, Resources......Becomes every Man and woman's journey into the Love of working on their own Cars. Give and take, and learn from mistakes. I'm drunk now, let hug, lol.

[82gt50]

I'll probably get flack for the following too, but guys driving 2016 Mustangs who might dare to give advice to do-it-yourself-ers working on 30 year old vehicles wouldn't know their a$$e$ from a hole in the ground either.

Roger that. Back in the 1970's there was very little support from the aftermarket for Ford performance parts and Ford itself had been out of the game for years. Oh sure there were intakes, cams and headers available but the main problem on small blocks were the small port big chamber factory heads. Even the rare 289 HiPo heads had small valves and ports and were worth too much for restorations to modify. So we had to rework used stock heads as best we could, today we have a large selection of excellent bolt-on heads from various companies to choose from.

Today these kids only talk about what they call cold air intakes (noise makers) cat back exhaust and a "tune" for their ECU...and they pay other people to do that!

[JACook]

...where you'll get my vote for cork is for transmission pan gaskets. That, and a skin of RTV on the pan side.

Bingo. The only thing better are the reusable molded seals like what the 4R70W uses. The worst are the
flat neoprene gaskets.

But I'm not down with the silicone. Transmission fluid and RTV don't get along so well, and I don't want
any bits of the stuff coming adrift inside and going where they shouldn't be. The silicone/cork matrix gaskets
really don't need any sealer at all, but you do want to get all traces of ATF off the pan and case rails before
installing the pan.

[Walking-Tall]

Bingo. The only thing better are the reusable molded seals like what the 4R70W uses. The worst are the
flat neoprene gaskets.

But I'm not down with the silicone. Transmission fluid and RTV don't get along so well, and I don't want
any bits of the stuff coming adrift inside and going where they shouldn't be. The silicone/cork matrix gaskets
really don't need any sealer at all, but you do want to get all traces of ATF off the pan and case rails before
installing the pan.

I took the bait and installed (dry) the flat neoprene gasket that came with my new transmission filter, and was rewarded days later with a few drops of transmission fluid on the driveway and damp looking bolt heads. For now, tightening all the bolts a wee tad tighter has shut it up. Never again.