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Thread: Oil Seperator

  1. #1

    Default Oil Seperator

    Ok folks, oil seperators. Do we need em? I have read on other forums people arguing back and forth. Yes you need em for such and such reasons, no you dont need em for yada yada yada reasons. Here is why i ask: (Im well aware that engineers are more intelligent than i am) My 88 TC runs fine. But every once in a while, it will start pushing blue smoke out the exhaust. If i turn the car off, then start it back up a minute later, no smoke. If im at a stop light and i notice the smoke, i can start driving away and at the next stop it isnt smoking anymore. So what i have read in a limited capacity, is that if clogged, the seperator can cause a pressure backup and push oil past the rings. Does anyone have any experience with this and/or deleting this part? The auto parts stores dont carry it, so i assume its only available at the dealers. Thanks for the insight!

  2. #2

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    Oh yeah, just FYI, i have already replaced the head gasket, valve guide seals, valve cover gasket, and the top side pcv is now a breather, rather than running into the intake.

  3. #3
    FEP Member BDASPNY's Avatar
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    are you using the correct pcv valve? cant hurt to add a air/oil separator. my setup is completely different but i added one to my pcv system because w/o it my systemax intake was drawing oil past the pcv system. i used one from lowes and added steel wool as a filter to trap the oil.

    old picture and have since simplified it but you get the idea.


  4. #4

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    I think all Fords need them personally. If I had a 2.3 Tempo I would put one on. I guess to me, it's so cheap so....let's say it's a waste of money and does nothing. So what? It's so easy to install and so cheap to buy what have you really lost? Let's say it keeps all your valves cleaner and keeps oil out of the intake and heads and keeps you from having to have a valve job done for another 50,000 miles. What have you saved? a LOT. So why not I guess is my answer.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  5. #5

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    Yeah i get the idea and why they are used. I suppose i should reframe my question. What i asking is, should i try to replace the oil seperator with a stock system, should i slap a couple breathers on there (creating a mess from what i understand), or should i go with an aftermarket catch can system?

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    The other option is to plum the pipe from the top of the valve cover down into the exhaust.
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
    Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
    1985 SVO 2A & leather. Stolen & Destroyed 2022
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    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

  7. #7

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    Would it get burned off if i route to the exhaust? Or just slowly build up and drip out?

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    If you plumb it into the down pipe I'm sure it would burn off but you will probably want to make the pipe at least 1/2 inch with check valve incase of a backfire. This means you need to make the hole in the valve cover bigger. Your other option would be a normal catch can routed back into the intake track.

    Oil separator that works with stock valve cover port... http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85496

    Separator for 1/2" http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mor-...FUZcfgodoWAI8g

  9. #9

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    Hmmmm cool. Thanks for the info!

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    Did anything ever come of this?
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
    Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
    1985 SVO 2A & leather. Stolen & Destroyed 2022
    Motor Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=63505
    Dyno stats and exhaust install http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Dyno-d-finally
    My FMIC build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-amp-D-project
    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

  11. #11

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    In 1983 the turbo cars didn't come with them. Ford quickly learned that they had a bad blow-by problem, from the extra pressure turbocharging puts on the crankcase, and also a pinging problem from the hot oil vapors coming out of the valve cover and going back into the intake. My 1983 Capri was one of them. I had them do the TSB update to add an oil separator as soon as it came out to fix this problem. And it did. Worked well.
    JK
    1983 Capri RS Turbo (since new)
    1970 Boss 302 (since 1980)
    1965 Mustang Coupe (since 1976)

  12. #12

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    In my opinion, it's all down to condition and power level ....

    Without doubt, the factory ones fill with crap over time and become restrictive. They can be cleaned well with solvent and blown out.

    As you increase power, the level of crank pressure increases, and there isn't enough capacity in the system to vent the crank case properly.

    Think about how the stock system works .... You have a vent on the valve cover tied to turbo inlet and one on the block tied to intake. Under vacuum both are open paths .... under boost, the PCV valve is closed, and the only vent path is the valve cover. As power increases, that's a lot of piston displacement (pistons going up and down acting like a pump) and blow by to exhaust via a single 3/8" line from the valve cover.

    People view that the valve cover line to turbo inlet is under vacuum. That is really only true with a stock, restrictive air box. Once you go to a free flowing air cleaner, the POTENTIAL draw on that line is gone.

    Some years ago I switched to a catch can and ran a 3/8" line from the block and the valve cover eliminating the PVC. This system worked really well to 400 hp, and I didn't blow any oil out of anything. I stepped up my program and stated to push oil out of everywhere. I now have a 5/8 line from the block and the valve cover to a catch can and get a lot more fluid to the can. The separators was a restriction along with the line size.

    To the original point of smoking ... I doubt this is really the source of that. Valve seals on these things needs replaced often in my opinion. Those are classic sign of smoking after start up and while idling (oil sitting in head before draining). The other source is without doubt the turbine seal. A good way to see if it's more an issue is if the smoke comes after decel in a gear. Hard to separate those, but I have had both be a source, and the sitting at a red light and start smoking has been turbine seal in several cases. If the situation happens with different oil temperatures that is also diagnostic.
    Bob Myers ©

    84 Capri RS Turbo - Only a 4 banger - 1/8th 6.29@110, 1/4 9.87@137

  13. #13
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    I know it's apples to oranges, but I am running an air/oil separator on my 85 GT. I have it ran in line to the PCV vacuum port in the carburetor base plate. I use a JLT separator that I sourced from my 4.6L Thunderbird when I sold it to a friend of mine.

    For the PCV system in a fuel injected, forced induction setup, I would want manifold vacuum on the PCV valve, like factory. I would also want a vent tube going from the valve cover to a tube that will connect in between the turbo inlet and the air flow sensor. Under boost, incoming air will draw the blow-by gasses back into the intake tract, preventing the crankcase from over pressurizing.

    In the case of the separator, I'd put one inline of the manifold PCV connection and one inline of the PCV vent connection. Having the PCV vent between the air flow sensor and the turbine inlet will help not only keep the crankcase clean and ventilated, but also not screw up the air flow readings seen by the sensor. Under vacuum, filtered air comes into the crankcase and blow by gasses get drawn into the intake manifold. Under boost, blow by gets drawn in by the compressor inlet from the valve cover vent, but only as much is needed since the PCV valve is closed.

    All this would assume that there are two air connections to the valve cover. Easy to do on a V8. For what it's worth, food for thought.
    Last edited by Mgino757; 01-24-2017 at 08:49 AM.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

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