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  1. #101

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    I decided to switch up my release schedule based on Instagram. I had a couple people ask about the process to remove the quarter window trim and resealing the windows. I finished up that video and released it this morning.



    I tossed on the OEM replacement hood I pcked up a while ago. It definitely needs some help to fit side to side and vertically, but nothing that can't be overcome. For once the fit to the fenders is pretty good. I still need to get the bumper fit better, and plan to do that today.

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  2. #102

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    I spent hours fitting panels again today. Fenders to bumper, hood to fenders, hood to bumper, etc. One thing fit, another didn't. The bumper came off probably 3 or 4 times. In the end, I just have a little more sanding to do by hand tomorrow for the fender to bumper fit and I'll be done. FINALLY. The hood needs finishing work, and the bumper needs fixed still. But... I can drive it in this condition all year if I want to. The hood fits pretty darn good considering how many different cars donated parts to this build.

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    I seriously need to get the wiring done now.

  3. #103

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    This has been my big accomplishment for this week. My Maier Racing 3" widebody kit is on and finished. I stopped keeping accurate time to get it to this point, but I'd say 80+ hours of labor for the whole kit. I'm happy with how it fits, and I can confidently move to the next piece of the puzzle which is the wiring. I'm sure once I hear it make some noise, I won't stop until it's ready to go!

    Attachment 120323

    Attachment 120322

  4. #104
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Have you thought about bonding and blending in the rear quarters? With all the work you did to get the front looking good, the rears with the visible fasteners look out of place now.

  5. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Have you thought about bonding and blending in the rear quarters? With all the work you did to get the front looking good, the rears with the visible fasteners look out of place now.
    Yes, I've thought about it. The original plan was to graft a 2000 Cobra-R lower bumper on with the same fasteners to tie the style in. I haven't gotten that far yet. I am going to fix the worse bumper (the black one), so that if I don't want to move to the Cobra-R piece with the white bumper I can sell off both. They are in good shape and intact. Then I'll probably bond them on and fill the holes for a smooth look. I'm still pondering the long-term finish for the car.

  6. #106

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    This week was the release of the end of the video. The 3" widebody kit is done (for now).



    I needed to get everything cleaned off, so I rolled the WideFox out of the garage for a real car wash with actual car wash soap. First wash ever.

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  7. #107
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks killer.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  8. #108

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    One of the worst things I see all the time on show and magazine cars are ill-fit panels. I think making parts fit has started to become a lost art. When I started mixing parts from different cars, it was apparent to me that my new to me hood wasn't going to fit well enough. Here's how I made it fit.


  9. #109

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    For this week's release, it's a "where are they now?" edition. Here's an update on where the car is headed in the next few weeks as I get it wrapped up.


  10. #110
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Your project is coming along nicely. Watched the last 2 videos, good stuff....
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  11. #111

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    The wrap I have planned for later this year won't stick to the fiberglass and filler very well. It needs a painted surface to bond to. I bought a few cans of simple paint to cover the widebody pieces and turn the front half of the car black to match. I think it came out pretty well, but I won't know until I get it all put back together and stand back and look at it.


  12. #112

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    With the car back together, the panels fit well. I don't really like the flat black paint though. Not to worry, it's only temporary.


  13. #113

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    One thing I have been holding off on was putting gear oil in the rear axle. I had swapped to 5-lug axles a while ago, but never filled it with fluid. I wanted to check on a Pan Hard Bar and then possibly spacer to adjust the wheels to the edge of widebody fenders. I decided to just put on longer axle studs in case I needed them later on, or I'd have to take everything apart if that came about. Better safe then sorry.



    With that done, I've put the car back on the ground with some new Gorilla open ended lug nuts.

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    This past weekend I went up to Portland and attended a two day seminar on vinyl wrapping. I learned all that I need to do for prep on this car, and it was great to learn how to do it in general. I have some material from the seminar to experiment with this week as practice. I ordered my real material and it should be headed my way shortly. I chose a slightly different color than planned, but it will really set this car a part (because the widebody didn't do it enough...)

  14. #114

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    I have previously mentioned that I want to eventually add a panhard bar to the rear of the coupe, and possibly adjust the wheels outboard to the edge of the fender with spacers. They should be roughly 3/8" based on some simple measurements, and that is right on the edge of needing longer wheel studs. Rather than having to do it later, I chose to remove the axles again before sealing up the differential and adding the oil.




    With that done, I've just been working on the car for wiring and little things. One of the long-term ideas is to change the color of the car (and actually have it one color) by vinyl wrapping it. I'm not ready to paint it yet, and don't know if I'll ever get there. Vinyl can be changed pretty easy and will be durable enough for my use if applied properly. I looked into having someone do it, and it was about $2k or more and the closest shop was about 2 hours from me. That means I'd have to drop it off for a couple of days and the drive back to get it. The material is about $800 - $1,000 of the cost, which means the rest is labor. Rather than pay for labor, I decided to take an actual 2-day seminar on the subject and do it myself. Here's my review of the class.



    After I got back from the class, I've been sanding the car down to get the best finish ready for the wrap. It needs to be 1500 grit level everywhere and I need some extra adhesion primer for the edges on the fiberglass. I ordered all the materials I need to do it when the vinyl gets in 2-4 weeks from now. Until then I'll just work on buttoning the car up. I'm getting pretty close on wiring enough to fire the car up. I'll still need to make the wiring prettier long-term before carpet goes in.

    This is what I'm going to do with the hood. Most people love it. Only one person said to cover the car in diesel and burn it to the ground. That's a win in my book!

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  15. #115
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I am not a wrap expert by any means, so I might be incorrect in this statement, but I will add it here just as an FYI. My understanding is that primer is not a good base for most wraps. The reason being that regular primer is porous and can still soak up moisture, glues, adhesive, etc. The issue with putting a wrap over the primer will be in removal at a later date. Most likely the wrap will stick just fine, but you may have issues getting it to release later because the porous nature of the primer will allow the adhesive to seep into the nooks and crannies of the 1500 grit sand scratches and make removal much more difficult. That is the information I was given and taught when I was considering wrapping my 82 GT rather than paint it. I ended up choosing to at least paint it with a single stage urethane black as a base to prevent that and may still wrap it until I ultimately decide what I like about my Lime Green accents etc.

    Although I am sure you are trying to keep costs down, I would highly recommend considering at least a single stage urethane paint to protect yourself from issues down the road. In my experience the single stage paints from Eastwood and Summit Racing are reasonably priced and actually work fairly well for the $$. You can paint your entire car with a single gallon kit as long as you are doing all the jambs, edges, engine bay, etc. That will cost you @$100-$150 depending on color, etc.

    As for the graphic wrap, it's not my cup of tea, but it will definitely get you noticed on top of the wide body. Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  16. #116

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    Trey,

    The flat black isn't primer. It's paint over a filler primer. The whole car is covered in paint right now. One thing that I need to do is sand the whole car down to 1,500 grit which I am going to do as time allows before I start wrapping. My material won't be here for a couple weeks and I'll sand it all in that time as well as get the car ready to start up (finishing the wiring).

    Most of the car is paint over metal, so it only needs an edge seal tape on the back side, but the fiberglass needs a little specialized vinyl primer to adhere well. All is on order after this weekend.

    As for the graphic, I know most will hate it or think "why in the world would that be on there?" The widebody isn't as noticeable unless you know what you're looking at, especially when it will all be a consistent color and finish. The graphic is going to stop people in their tracks and give them something to talk about. If I end up not liking it, I will remove it and replace it with another print (which I may do anyway) or just put it to the same vinyl as the rest of the car. I'm working on a side business, and this will be an attention getter in my local area (as well as the internet in general).

    As I read in an article this morning... Sometimes to build a legend you have to break the rules.

  17. #117

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    All of my wrap mterial is on order, and I received some of the tools this past week. The main roll of vinyl is still on the way. There doesn't appear to be a good series on YouTube for wrapping a Fox, so I'll take care of that missing content when I do mine.


  18. #118
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basin Motorsports View Post
    Trey,

    The flat black isn't primer. It's paint over a filler primer. The whole car is covered in paint right now. One thing that I need to do is sand the whole car down to 1,500 grit which I am going to do as time allows before I start wrapping. My material won't be here for a couple weeks and I'll sand it all in that time as well as get the car ready to start up (finishing the wiring).

    Most of the car is paint over metal, so it only needs an edge seal tape on the back side, but the fiberglass needs a little specialized vinyl primer to adhere well. All is on order after this weekend.

    As for the graphic, I know most will hate it or think "why in the world would that be on there?" The widebody isn't as noticeable unless you know what you're looking at, especially when it will all be a consistent color and finish. The graphic is going to stop people in their tracks and give them something to talk about. If I end up not liking it, I will remove it and replace it with another print (which I may do anyway) or just put it to the same vinyl as the rest of the car. I'm working on a side business, and this will be an attention getter in my local area (as well as the internet in general).

    As I read in an article this morning... Sometimes to build a legend you have to break the rules.
    Sorry for the confusion on my behalf. I personally still have concerns with a flat non catalyzed paint under the wrap, but I might be wrong. Best of luck and looking forward to see how it all comes together. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  19. #119
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I just watched your last video, looking forward to seeing the final outcome of the wrap project. Me personally, I'd never try it myself (I still have nightmares from trying to tint windows back in the day). I'd rather repaint an entire car than attempt a wrap. But with that being said, I did just watch this video.....
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV0rq8uccUc

    Good luck! JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  20. #120

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    Trey, I can't say 100% you're right or wrong on the wrap. The metal itself has multiple layers of paint. The factory OEM Ford paint, plus this black that someone did over it. I don't forsee it rusting or having any negative effects from the wrap as I'm not doing much by sanding other than strippng off the black. The fiberglass obviousuly won't rust, nor will the urethane bumpers. The best thing about doing this is that when I don't like it I'll take it back off. If it bubbles and looks terrible, it peels off easier than it went on. I know that paint can last 20 years if done properly and taken care of. Wrap is rated for 3-5 years usually. Given my car is stored in a garage, that could be pushed out to 7 or more years, and it's likely that my tastes will change before the wrap is technically done and needs a refresh. This car is a billboard for a business I'm working on (which will hopefully include vinyl work), so wrapping it makes perfect sense. I have 4+ body shops in my area now, so offering a paint service out of my own garage isn't going to net me much. There are zero vinyl shops in my area with training. That is my focus, to get in the market with little to no competition and take control.

    JT, CK Wraps has their own channel and it's really good. I've watched a few videos for little tips. I had done stickers in the past (never window tinting) and still struggled a bit. After taking the vinyl class, I have a lot more confidence. I did some simple work last weekend for a local guy that follows my YouTube adventure and met me at a car show. It took about an hour to do to where I thought it was done to my satisfaction, and the guy is very happy with the work. He had done vinyl in the past and had terrible results. He would rather pay me to do the work because I have some training and the proper tools. He just got to sit back and watch, then pay a few bucks to leave a happy camper. Paint and vinyl take skill to do well. You just have to get more experience to get more comfortable with doing it. I'm not really that good at anything, but I'm stubborn enough to work through the issues and not give up on the end goal.

  21. #121
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have no issues with the wrap and the actual adhesion. My concern is two fold, the first being that if the surface underneath is not sealed, then there is always the chance of trapped moisture causing rust in metal areas. Probably not a major concern, but still something that I think about. The second has to do with remove. My concern again with a non sealed surface, you might have an issue with the adhesive from the wrap really getting down into the substrate and having a bond that is difficult to remove at a later date. Again, I am not the expert, but I was considering doing a very similar wrap job on my 82 GT. Doing my research, etc. the information I received was that you really wanted a good painted surface for the wrap to stick to, but be sealed well enough that you don't any issues with the adhesive sinking in. At that point, I decided it was easier to just paint my 82 GT since it was going to be black anyway.

    I wish you the best of luck and hope that my concerns are all wrong, just felt the need to inject my .02 based upon my research.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  22. #122

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    I think he already got a suggestion on removing it. Douse in diesel and light! LOL. Having been in the business (but not actually doing the wrapping myself) I'd say they are valid concerns. But the fact it's paint and not primer, it's probably ok.

    Plus, depending on the quality of the vinyl, even on a new car, once it has been on too long...again it's the quality of the vinyl, it aint coming off without a fight. I helped the guy who did our wraps removed a 4 year old wrap from a food truck last year. It pretty much came off in confetti sized chunks. It was no fun
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  23. #123

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    droopie: It's all an experiment at this point. The roll of vinyl was delivered yesterday, and I'll say it's not going to be a color that initially is what I wanted. The widebody is attention grabbing, but the color isn't. The hood will break it up and I have a couple extra things to do that will make a little difference with subtle branding. The whole point to wrapping it was to learn the techniques to do it. I already have 4 cars lined up (the widebody, the '86 restoration, and our 2 Suburbans) for vinyl work. I expect that to grow. I won't be the guy that wraps it every year in something different, but I can always keep it fresh year after year as I get better. I was at a large show yesterday (about 300 cars) and had a number of people stop to ask me about doing vinyl and when they can see my car in public. The business will be there, and I just need to start getting the experience to make a business of it.

    I have the next two weeks pretty open at home because work will be slow. I am drawing a line in the sand and going to buckle down to get the car done for driving in two weeks. It's a lot of little things to get there.


  24. #124

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    I started two weeks ago to make a list of all that was needed to get the WideFox running. As I marked things off, of course other things were found that were needed. It has been a steady evolving list over the last couple of weeks, but every thing off the list gets it one step closer.


  25. #125

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    This weekend was my next goal of getting the car to fire up. I didn't make it again. The holiday on Wednesday delayed my fuel line clips a little for delivery and no one in my little town had them in stock. I ordered them from RockAuto instead. The wrap samples for the new colors also were delayed, so that will be something for next week.

    My starter solenoid from the '92 also decided it didn't want to work anymore. I used it for mock-up in the truck, but it wouldn't make the starter turn without jumping the terminals. I picked up a cheap one from AutoZone just to try a new one and see if that was indeed the problem. It was, and the car will now start with the turn of the key. When I bought the '80 two years ago it had a push button switch to bypass (or jump) the solenoid. I assume it was dead for a previous owner and they rigged it up to work rather than change the solenoid out. Either way, it functions as it should now.

    The HVAC box has been cleaned inside and out, a new blower motor installed with a cleaned OEM wheel, and a new heater core installed with the inlet restrictor in the hose to prvent too much pressure. Piece by piece it's coming together. I even got the ECM to turn on late yesterday which also primes the fuel pump. That is a huge accomplishment for me. I just have a few more things to lengthen and maybe I'll get the car to start next week.


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