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  1. #76
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    I removed everything from the engine bay for what I hope to be the last time (for a while). I've started working on the HVAC weld panel and then the drain at the bottom. These are traced out on a simple leftover piece of 16ga steel I bought a couple years ago. It does work well enough though.

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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  2. #77
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    I finished up the welding, filler, and painting on the bay. I still have a couple small spots of pitting in the filler, but for now I'm going to leave it be and get the motor back in the car to start the reassembly. I'm still considering a 2018 Coyote crate engine next Winter, so I may shave the whole bay at that point. For now, I'm just going to work on assembly for a start up in a couple months and show the crap out of it all year while beating it relentlessly in autocross.

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    After that was done, I put the new Exedy clutch kit on the 5.0L. I bought the kit about a year ago and finally have it all together behind the bellhousing and ready to toss back in the car.

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    Now that the engine is put back in the car I can start final assembly. I have new brake parts on the way for the Master Cylinder, brake lines for the rear discs, and adaptors for the front. I am close to having everything for the brakes here to complete the system.

    Here is the wire harness work I'm doing to tuck the harness and then covering in DEI wire loom.



    Last edited by Basin Motorsports; 01-15-2018 at 10:52 AM.
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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  3. #78
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Great update. You'll have that running in no time.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  4. #79
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    It's been a whirlwind trying to get this car together and the last two weeks have gone by fast. First, here's the video for the engine bay shaving.



    Since I shot that section, I put in a new Exedy clutch kit with the engine, and then got the engine back in the car. I then put the front suspension on the car with the new 5-lug spindles, brakes, etc. I haven't done the M/C swap to the 94/95 Cobra booster yet, but that will probably be in the next week. The boxes with all those came over the weekend.

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    I was contacted by Evapo-Rust about using some of their solution with parts on the build. I did a video about doing the spindles (a set of 94/95 and a second set of 96-04 spindles) previously, and then I did another one on the brake rotors. I painted the center hub area of the rotors with etch primer and then a simple black. Here's the rotors:



    With the front suspension all done, next it was getting back to the front fenders. I still didn't like how they fit to the metal cowl area and then against the door line. I ended up putting two screws from the inside of the cowl to pull the fenders in place, then split the upper surface away from the vertical surface. I can now independently move each and get them placed as needed to fit the door line. I need to buy some "Kitty Hair" from Evercoat to fix the door gaps and gap to the windshield trim. The trim has a 2 millimeter gap (up/down direction), and the door is set to 3/8" (10mm). I can use the Kitty Hair to build up the surfaces and then sand it to the gap level i want.

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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  5. #80
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    Now, with the body headed in the right direction, I just had to stand back and admire what the car is finally turning into after 21-months of work so far. I put up new new DEI banner (next to the older one), so I have my 12' ladder out. I climbed to the top to snap this picture. I must have stood there a couple more minutes just staring. It's really starting to come together.

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  6. #81
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    Since I took the overhead picture, work hasn't stopped. It's actually picked up a bit. I next went on to measure for wheels. I hadn't done it before, but found a recent magazine that had an article on what to do. Here's me dangling a string and using a tape measure to figure it out.

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    With these measurements down on paper, I started a thread in the wheels forum about what new wheels I needed. Did I want staggered fitment, or square? I want to run a 315 tire at all corners. Thankfully smarter people than me chimed in and convinced me to go with a square set-up and change fitment with spacers (if needed). Sadly, the Eibach springs I am running this year to get the car togethre aren't going to like the amount of new grip on the front tires. They'll get me by for 2018, but will need to be upgraded over next Winter. I also was recommended to change to SN95 lower control arms on the front, and I need to get that done too as well as a new SN95 sway bar to match. Little things, but it will take a little more time and money to make it right.

    Here is the video for the front suspension work. I bought the MM front spring install tool, and it worked fantastically. Well worth the price.



    Next I started back on the wiring for the engine harness and reall the front half of the car. I decided to put the Ford ECM under the passenger seat since it won't go under the dash. I made a simple bracket that the ECM will attach to, then that bracket will sit on top of the carpet and be sandwiched between the seat mounts and carpet. It's low enough that the seat won't touch it, it shouldn't overheat where it is, and I am not worried about it being kicked or stepped on.

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    Once that was done, I went back to wiring on the engine. I started by getting all the branches organized. Design Engineering sent me some of their split loom to try out on the harness, and I've used three different sizes to cover it all. I just finished up the main engine harness back into the firewall junction on the passenger side last night. I still need to extend the MAF harness and the O2 sensors main connector. Then on to the driver side which has all the front lights. I did also put the braking system back together with the new 94/95 cobra master cylinder and MM conversion lines, then the PS system and Alternator.

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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  7. #82
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Well done!

    Thats a good place to mount it, like what Ford did with the 1983 to 1984 EECIII equiped 150 hp California CFi in Cougar XR7's and Thunderbirds. They mounted both the PCM and the brown ingtion box under the seat from what I've read.

  8. #83
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    I've been doing a lot of wiring as you can imagine. The ECM going under the seat makes the harness circuits / wires need to be 20+ inches longer depending on each wire. I'm going wire by wire and making each the correct length, but the engine bay is at least done concerning the ECM. I still need to finish the headlight harness.

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    I had a couple people ask about taking the connectors apart and how I know which wires I'm taking out / don't need. I made this video to explain each.



    Here's the video on cutting up the front fenders to make them fit. I have some Evercoat Kitty Hair coming this week, and then I'll get them repaired and set the fit to the front bumper and door gaps.

    Last edited by Basin Motorsports; 02-12-2018 at 12:20 PM.
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  9. #84
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    For the ECM bracket, of course I made a video on how I did it.



    With that done, it was just a matter of time to extend each wire to make it the right length to reach the ECM location under the passenger seat. I worked every night a little bit on it wire by wire until it was done.

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    I have also worked on the engine bay to add the extras not there yet. Clutch cable, throttle cable, and the cooling. I bought a radiator hold down from LMR and just need to make some adjustments on the core support to make it work with the Be Cool radiator that I have. It's a little thicker than the OEM radiator, so the hold down doesn't fit great yet. I will remedy that.

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    Next will be on to the fiberglass work on the fenders. I have the Kitty Hair in the garage and just wanted to get the wiring finished up before I jumped to another section of the car. I'll probably work on the suspension this coming weekend. My new wheels should be here at the end of the week, and I can fit them on and make the package work.
    Last edited by Basin Motorsports; 02-26-2018 at 12:20 PM.
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  10. #85
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    Here is the video on finishing the ECM wiring. I will wait to fire the car up before I do a little more work on it around the ECM to clean up that bundle.



    Once I was done with that I changed out the front suspension (again) for a set of 99-04 lower control arms and new tie-rods (inner and outer). That pushes the wheels out a little more. I then tried out the new wheels just to see how they will fit. I went with a set of Rovos Pretoria in 18"x10.5".

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    It was cold a snowy this week, so I am now working on the front fenders. I bought some Evercoat Kitty Hair to fill in some holes and then extend the fender edges out to close the gap to the door (and build the surface up to flush). I did the first coat, then some sanding. I grabbed a really old electric sander i had in my tool drawer and it lasted about 20 miutes. I had glued the pad on years ago, and it finally died again. I ordered a new one, and put on a second coat of Kitty Hair last night.

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  11. #86
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks good. I don't envy you on those fenders as I hate to work with fiberglass.

    Seems like those fibers get everywhere (no matter how well you cover up) and itch for days.....
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  12. #87
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    Looks good. I don't envy you on those fenders as I hate to work with fiberglass.

    Seems like those fibers get everywhere (no matter how well you cover up) and itch for days.....
    I have to agree!

    Long sleeve shirt and long pants are a must. Pat on some baby powder on any exposed skin and from the elbows down before starting. Helps to fill your pores so the fiberglass fibers can't get a ahold. If you sweat a bunch or wash, then reapply baby powder as you continue to work.

    When done, the hard part is to take as cold a shower as you can stand to start out with. The cold water keeps your pores from opening up like they do with a warm or hot shower. Allow the water to flow over all skin areas exposed to the fiberglass. Once you have flushed all the exposed skin you can resume a regular warm/hot shower to finish cleaning up.

    If you do all that your itching issues will be reduced significantly! Fiberglass bothers some more than others. Had a guy that used to work for us that either didn't have any nerve endings in his skin or was just totally immune to fiberglass. I watched him literally roll around in the crap and it never bothered him in the least.

    OH! Car is looking good! I don't envy you on working the fenders and quarters! I know exactly what you are going thru! I still need to work on mine, but that car is 1100 miles away right now.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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  13. #88
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    Saturday I released out the video for the front suspension changes adding the 99-04 LCA and putting everything back on. I also officially debuted the Rovos wheels (of course you guys on here saw them ahead of time). I'm still trying to get one wheel and cap replaced from Rovos or American Muscle that are not what I ordered. I should get that squared away this week, and then look to buy the 315 tires soon and set the car on the ground.



    Beyond that, I spent the last week working on the passenger fender with molding and shaping the Kitty Hair. I finished it up Saturday, and honestly not being trained in any sort of bodywork, I am pretty happy with the results. The flush (in/out) is even and I set the gap to 6mm (1/4") to match the rear of the door fit to the quarter panel. I have a little more to finish up with a top layer of filler (since the Kitty Hair is a base filler), then some reinforcing layer on the backside. I will need to do the same process to the front of the fender to the bumper.

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  14. #89
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    Saturday I released how I completed the passenger side fender work. Still happy with the results, and did something similar with the driver side. They both ame out nice.



    I moved on to the front of the fenders where they connect to the bumper / fascia. They are gapped between 1.5mm and 6.5mm depending on where they are, so I'm building up the front edge with Kitty Hair and will then hand sand ti to fit correctly and close up the gap to the bumper.

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    I also rewired the trunk, which removed out the taillight circuits from the 1992 harness, and the fuel level sender wiring from the 1980 harness. I wired the 1992 harness back into the 1980 connector as they have the same pin configuration. The resistance between the 1980 and 1992 fuel senders is close, so we'll see how close when I can get power in the car and put fuel in it. I imagine it will require some fine tuning to make it fully functional and accurate enough to not run out of gas.

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    One sad thing to note is that while I was hooking up the transmission to the '92 harness, I noticed a small drop of trans fluid on the bottom of the main case. It doesn't have fluid in it, so it was weird to find just one drop hanging there. That's when I noticed that my main case is cracked about 4" from the bellhousing backward along the bottom ridge. So now I get the joy of removing the transmission out and having it welded if that is just the problem. I am guessing it had a stress fracture from the '92 being rearended and it never showed up until I torqued it back down to the belhousing in the '80 chassis.

    This is how it sits as of last night. A work in progress...

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  15. #90
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    I love it! Keep posting, this thing is amazing!

  16. #91
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    Today I released out the video for the driver fender work. Pretty close to what I had done on the passenger side and similar results. Still happy with the results so far.



    I was perusing Facebook last night and saw that Maier Racing has taken notice of my widebody build. They are offering free shipping in the USA if you mention my build during ordering. They shared out a couple of the video links to YouTube. They said they hadn't been tracking orders and if my build had any influence, but this shipping offer is because someone did order a set and tell them that they have been watching my build and wanted a set for their Mustang. Definitely an interesting turn of events. When I wanted to buy a set and sent them a proposal to work together they wouldn't give me the time of day, wouldn't return an email or phone call, etc. It does put a little pep in my step getting some recognition either way.
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  17. #92
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basin Motorsports View Post
    Today I released out the video for the driver fender work. Pretty close to what I had done on the passenger side and similar results. Still happy with the results so far.



    I was perusing Facebook last night and saw that Maier Racing has taken notice of my widebody build. They are offering free shipping in the USA if you mention my build during ordering. They shared out a couple of the video links to YouTube. They said they hadn't been tracking orders and if my build had any influence, but this shipping offer is because someone did order a set and tell them that they have been watching my build and wanted a set for their Mustang. Definitely an interesting turn of events. When I wanted to buy a set and sent them a proposal to work together they wouldn't give me the time of day, wouldn't return an email or phone call, etc. It does put a little pep in my step getting some recognition either way.
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  18. #93
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    Another week, and more bodywork. I did get some wiring done that I showed in the video. And the transmission that needs to be welded.



    From the end of that video, I took a week off. I hit rock bottom with energy. I have been working steadily on this car for two years. That was around video #70 of the build, and I think the 80th straight week that I had 1-5 videos on YouTube. I was tired, more mentally than anything.

    I did get back to it last Thursday night. I took the front end off and added filler to support the back of the fenders where I cut everything.

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    Friday I had the new 315 BFGs mounted on the Rovos wheels and then hit a local salvage yard to pick through what they had for Foxes. They still have the same cars there that they did 2 years ago. Amazing. They have added a couple more. They had a pristine '79 Capri that I got a few things off of.

    Yesterday was Easter, and I rolled the widebody out in the sun to spray it off. It was still dusty from all the sanding. And of course I took a couple pictures and some video!

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  19. #94
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Oregon Energy!

    Its a fat fendered beast out in the wild.

  20. #95
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Love the wide body look with those rims / tires. What's next on "the list"???
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    Love the wide body look with those rims / tires. What's next on "the list"???
    The list for this year:
    - Finish the front fenders
    - Repair and blend the front bumper with the fenders (flush and gap)
    - Finish the wiring
    - Reinstall the interior
    - Reseal the quarter windows
    - Make fender liners (front and back)
    - Have transmission welded
    - Fire engine up and fill all fluids (not in that order)
    - Vinyl wrap the entire car
    - Drive it and show it!!!

    Optional:
    - Add spacers and longer studs to move the wheels outboard (nothing rubs now, but I don't like how they look compared to the fender edges)

    2018 Winter:
    - Suspension updates (thinking coilovers) -> must lower the car. It looks like a 4x4.
    - Maybe an engine change. Still undecided.
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  22. #97
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Healthy list.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  23. #98
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    A hint on front fender liners, try a set from a 94-95 Mustang. They'll mount to the fox chassis the same and fit a wider larger wheel opening. I used them on my 79 after stretching the fender openings. I put them up in place and traced the fender line on them then trimmed them to fit.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    A hint on front fender liners, try a set from a 94-95 Mustang.
    I'll see if I can find a set. I have a '92 set, and the original '80 set. I need to make a wider set for the fronts, and then a small set for the rears to go between the widebody fender and the cut metal OEM quarter panel. It will just keep rocks and mud from collecting in the rear flares.
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  25. #100
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    This week's release is of the car as a roller. I pushed it out of the garage to do a little cleaning and to mention a couple other things I have planned for the future. Once I get to a point that the car is able to be driven, I plan to start tinkering with composites.



    I've been back working on the bodywork for the front fenders and I think they are close to finished for the cowl area. I switched from Kitty Hair to GlassTite which is more filler than structural foundation. I'm on my 2nd round of filler and should be about done with it. I just need to finish up the fit to the bumper and the fenders will be done. Then to fix the bumper.

    I started resealing the quarter windows also.
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