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  1. #1

    Default Looking at GT350, What do I offer the seller for this one???

    Long story short, I'm known as the Mustang guy in town and have had some real nice ponies. I have not done much in a few years, but Tuesday a guy knocks on my door and wants me to buy this car because #1) he doesn't drive it #2) it cost him a lot because he doesn't know how to work on cars. Excited, I go look at it thinking I am going to pick up an Anny to go with my Early 84 SVO. At first, it looks good, but gettig closer and looking it over, it has rust issues. Interior is very nice, but needs a dash pad and one piping seat issue.....thats it. Exhaust it cobble job, nose has been repainted, engine bay needs cleaning and detailing. He has put on new tires and shocks, new clutch, radiator and hoses. I think also a new started. Then there is the rust. NO 64/84 horseshoe badge on the dash, but has a "limited production" badge on there. I'm not looking for a car or even a project, but would buy it for the right price.......then dig into the rust issue and that leads to a repaint. Here are pics I snapped.

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    Last edited by Mad Adder; 04-10-2016 at 08:46 PM.
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  2. #2

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    And the T-tops have been glued shut!
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  3. #3

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    The car was hard to get started and idling. I think it needs a tune or just to be run more often.
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  4. #4

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    A quick search shows that I can buy a 20th Anny car with no cosmetic issues and with the special badges for $5K to $7K, so I really can't see even offering anything close to that and then dealing with the issues. So the question is, what do I offer to start and how high before I walk away? I have my ideas, but want your opinions.
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  5. #5

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    Id say start at 3 -3.5 grand and see what he says. If everything is working and the car is reasonably mechanically sound, I'd say it's worth between 4-5. That is of course if the rust isn't too severe. Although that t top situation is weird.
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  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member 4eyes's Avatar
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    I'm closer to $2k because of the laundry list of issues. If it was a car you really wanted then I'd say vxr500 is about right. But as you said, this guy approached you and you don't need the car. I'd walk above $2800. The Anny cars aren't appreciating any faster than properly cared for GTs and SVOs. Last thing you want is to be upside down in a car you didn't even go looking to buy. "Buyer Beware!"

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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Fearnot's Avatar
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    The rust I see appears to be mainly surface rust. Although it will take some time and effort to fix, it doesn't appear to be that bad. I would be more concerned with underside rust and floor rust associated with that T-top. If there's rust in the front frame rails and battery box area I'd pass on it since you're not looking for a major restoration project. If there's only surface rust to deal with, I'd be all in at $2500. Good luck!
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  8. #8
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    All valid points, gents. Seeing the pics with rust here and there, the guy came to you, list of items needed....... start low and work up. When selling, one needs to start out high and meet somewhere in the middle, maybe. When buying, you want to do the opposite. Personally, I'd look in the $2,000 - $2,500ish range....... Best of luck.
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  9. #9

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    T-tops glued shut can be anything from someone not liking a "squeek" to leaking.

    More investigation required before an offer.

    I'd buy it for 2-3000, but I'd have to be looking for one. Truthfully, I'd have a hard time bringing myself to pay much over 3 grand for any fox though. Just the way I look at 'em, but they were also just throw away cars when I was coming up so that's what's stuck in my head. Heck, I almost just gave away my 83 this spring for 300 or so bucks.

    The rust issues shown don't appear to be deal breakers, but negotiation points for sure.

    Paint jobs are pretty pricey too, if you can't spray it yourself.

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    That looks almost like mine and since they sold on for auction at 50K+ it must be worth that much at least.

    Really 2-3K sounds good but a GOOD deal is where the seller and the buyer both are satisfied with the price.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
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    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    ...GOOD deal is where the seller and the buyer both are satisfied with the price.
    Lol! I've always said a "fair deal" is where both the seller and the buyer come away equally po'd at the selling price!


  12. #12
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    2k don't like that rust....

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Big difference between what I'd pay, and what it's worth (what I'd pay is almost always less than what it's worth). IMO, that car is worth $3000-3500.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by vascj View Post
    2k don't like that rust....
    I agree with this. The rust is only going to get worse as you dig in.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  15. #15
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Sorry, this car is fair, not rough.

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    It seems a bit odd to me to ask for a consensus on what one would pay for a car, when everyone has differing incomes and thresholds when considering a project car. Everyone here has different skill levels where auto repair is concerned. I've seen people attempt things on cars that I would never do, but that doesn't seem to stop them from getting satisfying results.

    What the OP really should be doing is asking themselves how much can they afford to spend? How much money, time and effort will it take to fix what needs fixing? Are you in this for the long haul, or are you looking for an inexpensive project car? Is this car a "must have", or do the flaws give you leverage o get he car on the cheap?

    In the end, the only question that matters is what is the price the seller will sell it to you at? If you go too low, will he take it as an insult and walk away? Whenever any one of us sells a car, we obviously want the best price we can get for it. Conversely, the buyer doesn't want to overpay either. If you've bought used cars more than once from a private party, then you've already got something to go by. If the seller already has a price in mind, then that's helpful too.

    My thoughts... If the rust is confined to the doors and the hatch area, that's not very difficult. The glued down t-tops can be taken car of once you get them loose. If that's the worst of it and the pics are pretty comprehensive, it looks like a 3-3500 dollar car. I've seen people ask for more on cars that looked much worse.
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  17. #17
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Go buy a NICE GT350 DONE for $7K-$10K if a 84 GT350 is what you want.

    You can't afford to restore/redo the car pictured above for when you NOW can buy really nice 84 GT350 running, driving and enjoyable this summer for the prices quoted above.

    These cars are still not worth the cost of restoration versus buying a NICE DONE CAR NOW.

    And that includes the $77K 100 mile 84 GT350 Converible!
    Mike
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  18. #18
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by great white View Post
    Lol! I've always said a "fair deal" is where both the seller and the buyer come away equally po'd at the selling price!

    AGREED!

    That's why my definition of "Fair" is "I get it all and you get none"!

    That's "Fair" from my perspective!
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

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  19. #19

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    Thanks for the information, opinions and views. I'm really glad I asked and them took time for replies. I have been pondering this, as well as real house goals for the year. I don't NEED this car and I wasn't looking. It wouldn't bother to not have it, but it would be nice for a good price, but I don't think he will take the offer. I will talk to him, make an offer and then tell him to take the time to think about it. He doesn't want someone to run it into the ground, he wants me to take it and restore it. I didn't plan on a car project, so I won't feel bad if he holds on to it.
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  20. #20

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    Well, I think all really worked out in the end. I am finishing up a remodel on the kitchen and want to put up a 20 x 21 garage. I maxed my offer out at $2500, he wants $6K or a minimum of $5k if I really wanted it. We agreed this wasn't a deal for either of us. For $5-6K, I would buy an 85-86 model in clean condition, but that's me and my preference.
    84 SVO
    85 SVO (no driveline)
    86 GT 10.30 @ 129
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  21. #21
    New User Stas427's Avatar
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Ford-M...Jalda3&vxp=mtr $4K for one up now.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Ford-M...VadOXo&vxp=mtr This bid up to almost $8,000.00

    T-top is no common and if bottom of car and frame has no rust, $4500.00. Put $10K in it and it is still a far cry from a new Mustang with high insurance/reg/depreciation.

    Around here people pay $2K for a rotted old Honda Civic with a big muffler on it.

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  23. #23
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    The white shows off all the rust unfortunately. I would pass unless you plan on using it for parts. You will be chasing rust forever.
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  25. #25
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Gentlemen, do us all a favor. Please do not stack other ads under previously posted FYI sales posts. Start another FYI ad.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

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