Its Official I now own a 1982 Mercury Capri RS

[Eagle_Eddie]

I posted a little while ago about potentially buying a Capri and can happily say I got it. Surprisingly I fit inside comfortably with the exception of the steering wheel being a little low, but once I get those bucket seats in Ill be fine. The car needs a little loving but I have a vision to work towards. I look forward to getting extremely valuable advice from all you amazing people and hopefully getting to a point where I can be just as helpful for others .

My first question is what are the plus/minuses between wrapping the dashboard versus replacing it all together? It definitely needs to be cleaned up.

[STANGMAN116]

Amazing!!! Post some pics!!!

[mustangxtreme]

Congrats on your acquisition. Post up some pics so we can also enjoy your success. When you are talking about wrapping the dashboard are you referring to the dash pad, the dash hull or the instrument panel bezel? Some pics of what you mean would be helpful as well.

[75coug]

Congrats!

[9D83]

Nice! Looking forward to seeing. No tilt I take it or is it the whole column that you find low?

[Eagle_Eddie]

Thats my "new" 1982 capri RS. I meant to get the pics up earlier but i have been spending too much time either working, or working on the car. Which brings me to my next area of concern but ill post that in another reply.

[Eagle_Eddie]

I have been having problems with the electrical and cooling system in the car. I recently had them both overhauled professionally which didnt seem to solve much but honestly I cannot be 100% sure because the temp gauge doesnt seem to be working properly. I bought the car off of a really young guy that took the engine out to do some work then seemingly bastardized the thing back in. The serpentine belt eventually snapped so I had that replaced and also got the cooling system overhauled at the same time ( new thermostat, water pump, and radiator ). This past weekend the electric fan i had on there burnt out as it was for a V6 as opposed to my V8... I booked it to the nearest auto wrecker and took a clutch driven fan off a v8 thunderbird and threw it on which seems to do the job well during the day. Here is where things get weird, the temp gauge typically seems to work fine so long as nothing is asked of the electrical system. Once I hit the brakes and the brake lights come on the temp gauge literally goes off the scale. Only after having my foot off of the brake for about five- 10 min does it start to come back down. At night when headlights are used the gauge just stays off the charts. When I do drive home at night it is usually only a five-fifteen minute drive and the engibe does seem to be considerably hotter vs the same drive without the electrics being used. As you will see in the pictures, the coolant tube ( bear with me, im mechanically inclined but not a mechanic ) runs directly over the alternator and I am curious as to whether it is possible that when the alternator heats up it is cooking the coolant that flows through the system. The alternator gets absolutely scolding hot within said fifteen minute drives. I also have a brand new battery. Any help or insight you can give me will be much appreciated. Also, does anyone know the ideal operating temperature for this engine? For all I know I am just being paranoid.

[Eagle_Eddie]

[Eagle_Eddie]

There is no tilt :/ I can deal with it for now as I have been driving it about a month now without real issue with the steering wheel other than not being able to see my gauges.

[9D83]

No it sounds like electrical gremlins. Does the needle bounce right over suddenly? Great Capri btw. My sis had an 82 GLX that colour.

[Quicksilver]

Welcome, nice car.

Here are a few thoughts...
192 F is the operating temperature with the thermostat open. Use a thermostat with a small bleed hole which allows some coolant to pass through, helping to fight off air pockets.
I can't remember if the T bird fan is the same as the 5.0 HO motor. The HO motor has a reverse flow water pump, so verify that the blades turn in the correct direction...maybe someone can jump in and verify this.
Also, is the fan working properly? I have had them wear out and cause overheating.
Perhaps look for a fan schroud so that the air from the fan is directed at the rad.
How is your voltage regulator?
Alternators can get warm or hot but shouldn't get schooling hot. Maybe the voltage is too high?
What is the voltage reading on the battery when the car is running?
Hope this helps.

[Eagle_Eddie]

Welcome, nice car.

Here are a few thoughts...
192 F is the operating temperature with the thermostat open. Use a thermostat with a small bleed hole which allows some coolant to pass through, helping to fight off air pockets.
I can't remember if the T bird fan is the same as the 5.0 HO motor. The HO motor has a reverse flow water pump, so verify that the blades turn in the correct direction...maybe someone can jump in and verify this.
Also, is the fan working properly? I have had them wear out and cause overheating.
Perhaps look for a fan schroud so that the air from the fan is directed at the rad.
How is your voltage regulator?
Alternators can get warm or hot but shouldn't get schooling hot. Maybe the voltage is too high?
What is the voltage reading on the battery when the car is running?
Hope this helps.

I had the altinator checked out by a proffesional so based on his work I have to say that that checks out. I will have to give him a call to check if the water pump was done correctly as I dont recall him saying it was reverse flow. The fan is working, very well in fact but is it supposed to blow air at the radiator? Mine is directed to pull air that passes through the radiator towards the engine. The voltage reads right in the middle on gauge though I wouldnt trust the gauge. I do however have a brand new battery as before I had the car in the shop it was boiling the battery but that has since been resolved.

[Eagle_Eddie]

No it sounds like electrical gremlins. Does the needle bounce right over suddenly? Great Capri btw. My sis had an 82 GLX that colour.

It gradually makes its way over, it is not a sudden jump.

[Walking-Tall]

Nice car. Sounds like some gremlins indeed. Gremlins aside, I think more important is knowing actual running engine temperature. The factory gauge in my '86 was, besides not indicating a useful temperature number to anybody, was wonky and getting wonkier, so at the least even a temporary mechanical gauge added wouldn't hurt for peace of mind.

I see a counter-clockwise fan to draw air through the radiator, and the back of the belt running the water pump counter-clockwise. These two aspects are what's known as reverse rotation, because prior to them everything up front spun clockwise. Here's hoping the water pump is "reverse" too.

I don't see an alternator's operating temperature affecting cooling system temperature.

The ideal operating temperature is where opinions will vary, and the factory gauge that tells us nothing on the best of days, makes for paranoia. IMHO, a 180-degree Fahrenheit thermostat for the warmer weather keeps 'em smiling, and if driven during the colder months too, a 195-degree Fahrenheit thermostat helps with creature comfort winter warmth.

Observations from the pictures: I don't see a vacuum line connected to your distributor's vacuum advance canister. I see one heater hose attached to the heater core. Has it been bypassed? Bypassed with one length of heater core tubing in a loop from the intake manifold to the lower water pump fitting?

[Eagle_Eddie]

Nice car. Sounds like some gremlins indeed. Gremlins aside, I think more important is knowing actual running engine temperature. The factory gauge in my '86 was, besides not indicating a useful temperature number to anybody, was wonky and getting wonkier, so at the least even a temporary mechanical gauge added wouldn't hurt for peace of mind.

I see a counter-clockwise fan to draw air through the radiator, and the back of the belt running the water pump counter-clockwise. These two aspects are what's known as reverse rotation, because prior to them everything up front spun clockwise. Here's hoping the water pump is "reverse" too.

I don't see an alternator's operating temperature affecting cooling system temperature.

The ideal operating temperature is where opinions will vary, and the factory gauge that tells us nothing on the best of days, makes for paranoia. IMHO, a 180-degree Fahrenheit thermostat for the warmer weather keeps 'em smiling, and if driven during the colder months too, a 195-degree Fahrenheit thermostat helps with creature comfort winter warmth.

Observations from the pictures: I don't see a vacuum line connected to your distributor's vacuum advance canister. I see one heater hose attached to the heater core. Has it been bypassed? Bypassed with one length of heater core tubing in a loop from the intake manifold to the lower water pump fitting?

The heater core has been bypassed. I plan to attach a "custom" temp gauge this weekend for said peace of mind. However there is a new development and that is that as I was driving along my oil cap ( not the one you use to refill the oil but the one on the left side of the engine popped off. Took it to the shop where it was worked on and they put a new cap on there. After this new cap was installed white smoke shortly ensued and my car is now back in the shop being looked at for oil pressure problems . When I mentioned the reverse flow water pump the guy who worked on my car seemed confused and got all defensive :S. Is there somewhere I can refer him too for proof? He also doubts my engine is the HO version, I also am unsure as the kid I got the car from has done some weird stuff...

[wraithracing]

First and foremost you need to install a fan shroud in order to have any chance of the fan cooling properly. A factory shroud will work just fine and should be a simple bolt in.

Second it doesn't matter if your engine is an HO or not the OEM 82 engine would use a reverse ROTATION water pump just like any of the later model HO do. It is called a reverse ROTATION pump because the drive belt wraps around the pump pulley and actually spins the pump the opposite or reverse direction that the engine is rotating.

When you say left side of the motor are you referring to the left side as sitting in the car or looking at the engine? Either way it appears that both of your caps are breather caps and one has the PCV valve in it. If the cap blew off that can indicate over pressurizing of the crankcase. There can be a coupe of reasons for that. If White smoke is blowing out of the engine that can signify a blown head gasket possibly due to the cooling issues. I would check your coolant and your oil to see if you have blown a head gasket and the two are mixing now. Hopefully NOT!

Good Luck and let us know what you find out.

Trey

[9D83]

Trey does it not look like a reverse rotation pump from the pics? Lower rad hose is on the drivers side. OP stupid question but did you notice any overheating/gauge issues before the new rad, stat and wp?

[grabbergreen84]

The temp gauge rising when the lights are on might be a grounding issue. Is there a ground strap between your engine and firewall?

[Walking-Tall]

The heater core has been bypassed. I plan to attach a "custom" temp gauge this weekend for said peace of mind. However there is a new development and that is that as I was driving along my oil cap ( not the one you use to refill the oil but the one on the left side of the engine popped off. Took it to the shop where it was worked on and they put a new cap on there. After this new cap was installed white smoke shortly ensued and my car is now back in the shop being looked at for oil pressure problems . When I mentioned the reverse flow water pump the guy who worked on my car seemed confused and got all defensive :S. Is there somewhere I can refer him too for proof? He also doubts my engine is the HO version, I also am unsure as the kid I got the car from has done some weird stuff...

Confused and defensive? All it takes is a look at your belt that spins the water pump (and fan and tension pulley) counter-clockwise, the opposite direction of everything else being turned clockwise. Confused and defensive does not sound like a competent fellow. Refer him to the fact that your belt turns the water pump and cooling fan backward. There's nothing else to know, besides to order and install a reverse rotation water pump if a replacement is necessary.

Regardless of whatever the kid did previously, this fellow that has done work on your car to install a new water pump and other cooling system items, so IF it is a standard clockwise rotation water pump on there, with your engine having the belt setup to run a reverse pump, and you've got head gasket/s blown, it is THEIR problem. Don't let them convince you it isn't their problem to resolve, or remove the focus off the fact that this sounds like a cooling system problem with white smoke happening. Oil pressure problems would present nothing like any of this at all. It takes a good amount of crankcase pressure, even if your pcv valve were to become blocked or inoperative in some way, to blow even a push-in breather cap off of a valve cover like that. It is/was a breather cap, yes?

Regardless 2.0: I'd be checking the water pump's part number on the receipt/paperwork, and searching online to see what it is...

Here's some info regarding standard/reverse pumps: http://www.waterpumpu.com/%2fPortals...seRotation.pdf

[9D83]

Gonna go out on a limb here and say it but I don't have any cred to loose anyways. That is a reverse flow pump-uness they put the wrong impeller in the housing. Lower rad hose comes in at the drivers side-a spotters point as I recall. OP again- was there a problem with the gauge before or was this preventative work? My logic for asking: if no problem before-problem now then it's likely there is a hardware prob somewhere-inc the new wp and stat. If it was a problem before and this hasn't fixed it I would think electrical. The white smoke thing as a concern and a confounder. It certainly suggests that the engine is actually overheating as opposed to a bad reading.

[Eagle_Eddie]

After doing some digging I have found that it is in fact a reverse rotation pump. The issue with the oil cap blowing off was that the engine simply wasnt " breathing properly". The guys at the shop cleaned some tubing and told me about some pcv etc they cleaned and just charged me for an hours work. Everything is running fine now. Drove it through stop and go traffic today and the engine didnt overheat though I think it did get noticeably hotter. I will be putting on a new temp guage this weekend because the paranoia and stress is killing me on my drives to and from work. The grounding cable is likely the issue then as that is another thing on my list of things to do. Thanks so much for all your guys's help it has been very reassuring. Ill continue to update you guys moving forward.

[Eagle_Eddie]

Trey does it not look like a reverse rotation pump from the pics? Lower rad hose is on the drivers side. OP stupid question but did you notice any overheating/gauge issues before the new rad, stat and wp?

Yea, the engine would actually overheat with the old electric fan the guy put on it before. Boiled over once or twice, once because the fan was too small for the engine, and once because the fan actually burnt out... Since I have put on the clutch driven fan things have been much better. Im not 100% if the cooling problem is solved yet due to the crazy guage but i should know this weekend. I'll definitely keep my eyes open for a shroud but if the fan works as is I may forgo it all together as I plan to put a new electric fan on it eventually.

[Eagle_Eddie]

First and foremost you need to install a fan shroud in order to have any chance of the fan cooling properly. A factory shroud will work just fine and should be a simple bolt in.

Second it doesn't matter if your engine is an HO or not the OEM 82 engine would use a reverse ROTATION water pump just like any of the later model HO do. It is called a reverse ROTATION pump because the drive belt wraps around the pump pulley and actually spins the pump the opposite or reverse direction that the engine is rotating.

When you say left side of the motor are you referring to the left side as sitting in the car or looking at the engine? Either way it appears that both of your caps are breather caps and one has the PCV valve in it. If the cap blew off that can indicate over pressurizing of the crankcase. There can be a coupe of reasons for that. If White smoke is blowing out of the engine that can signify a blown head gasket possibly due to the cooling issues. I would check your coolant and your oil to see if you have blown a head gasket and the two are mixing now. Hopefully NOT!

Good Luck and let us know what you find out.

Trey

When I said left side I was referring to the left side when you stand in front of the engine. From this point of view the driver side is on the right, and passenger on the left.

[Eagle_Eddie]

So about that fan shroud, any idea where I can find one? Today the stop and go traffic was simply too much for the car and it died in traffic only to come to life about 30 min later. The shroud would likely make the difference and will be much cheaper than getting a new electric fan.

[Walking-Tall]

"Stop and go" is a situation where no shroud can get ya. Are there auto wreckers around you that have older stuff? I'd look into that.
So, it overheated on you in traffic? Did you get another temperature gauge in there over the weekend?