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Thread: 1983 GL project

  1. #101

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    Well, it's in:



    At least it's somewhat fit to the car.

    The cut off wheels were disintegrating at a foolish pace, the welder was giving me fits with blowing through perfectly good metal no matter what I did and the tiny little hole (ie: single car garage) I'm working in was frustrating me to no end (I think I've actually invented a few new swear words).

    I frigged up a couple cuts and it has a bit too much space in some of the butt joints and it's a little off here and there due to the pan being a "universal" fox mustang pan.

    So I have some shaping and beating to do yet, but it's getting there...

  2. #102

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    Well, after 20 years of using an old Canadian tire cheapo welder, I've finally had enough.

    Blowing holes in my new floor pan was the final straw.

    I just ordered a Lincoln 180.

    220v mig welder that can take a spool gun. Its a step voltage tap instead of the rheostat style, but my cheapo 110v wire feed only has high and low and wire speed. Neither setting ever seems to do well for anything. Seems it's either making blobs or blowing holes.

    Garage is all set up to use it, I had a 220 welding plug installed when we moved in.

    I bought it at homedepot.ca as it was the lowest price I could find at $700 CAD. Only thing is I have to wait up to 5 days for thier free home delivery. But to save 120 bucks over the closest competitor, I was willing to wait a couple days. That $110 will cover my gas bottle.

    I considered Hobart and Miller, but they couldn't beat the price point on similar models I could get the Lincoln for. I had to drop to a 140 in Miller and Hobart to even get close to the Lincoln 180 and I wanted a 220 box.The 180 gets good reviews from both pro's and amateurs and Lincoln is common enough in Canada that I can get parts and supplies for it just about anywhere. Everyone seems to say it's great for hobbiests use without breaking the bank.

    220 limits portability somewhat, but that's not a big deal for me as it will never leave the garage. Being able to take a spool gun will be a plus and will possibly let me do some aluminum work at home, something I've been lacking in my home shop.


  3. #103

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    Last pieces of the T-Top puzzle:




    They are in "reasonable" shape and I could just bolt them on a repaint them, but they have that little bit of rust starting in the pinch welds and there are several coats of paint on them, the last being some gawd awful kind of rattle can flat black. Someone has tried to tidy up the rust before and didn't do a very good job, It would only be a matter of time before they bust out again. One of the frames actually has a crusty hole in it already.

    My 83 doors are factory fresh and it just makes more sense to me to cut the window frames off and transfer over the internals.

    As a side bonus they are working power windows and even have power mirrors. I was already swapping to power windows since my car is non-A/C (and will stay that way), but I may look at doing the power mirrors also. They sure can be handy.

    The reinforcing plates are "pop riveted" on the doors on these ones so they will be easy to transfer over to my 83 hardtop doors.
    Last edited by great white; 11-28-2016 at 07:59 PM.

  4. #104

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    Wow, lotsa progress!

    Say, those doors don't happen to be '85 or '86, do they?...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Wow, lotsa progress!

    Say, those doors don't happen to be '85 or '86, do they?...
    Supposedly 88, but the white inside one I'm not so sure. It has the later wiring and was fit with an 88 door panel. The black one is 88 for sure.

    Honestly haven't looked too close at them. The power windows worked and the glass is good which is all I really cared about.

    They would work on an 85/86, you would just have to add things like the door pull attaching clips and a few other small things.

    I toyed with keeping them as spares, but I just don't have the room. Nor do I want to lug them around when we move next.

    Once I've swapped over what I need, the rest is either getting sold or scrapped.

    Or maybe even sold as scrap....I'm getting quite a heavy pile in the bed of my truck....
    Last edited by great white; 11-28-2016 at 09:02 PM.

  6. #106

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    My doors aren't great, but they're fixable some day, and I was fishing for a '85-'86 driver's side molding, lol
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #107
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    1987 was the last full year of production for the T-tops. There are early 1988 models with T-tops, but are the same setup as the 87 models. The convertible used the same doors in 1987 and then mid production 1988 they went to the full length windows that did away with the mirror mount.

    If all of the parts are from an 87 or 88 model, make sure to purchase the weatherstripping for those years as there are some differences between the year models. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #108

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    1987 was the last full year of production for the T-tops. There are early 1988 models with T-tops, but are the same setup as the 87 models. The convertible used the same doors in 1987 and then mid production 1988 they went to the full length windows that did away with the mirror mount.

    If all of the parts are from an 87 or 88 model, make sure to purchase the weatherstripping for those years as there are some differences between the year models. Good Luck!
    Nope, all 83 parts except the door glass itself.

    Entire roof and tops were cut off an 83 gt at the base of the pillars.

    The door drip rails and cross roof trim is all 83. Same with all the weatherstrip retainers.

    Weather stripping is already ordered. All for the 83.

    Supposed to show up 05 Dec along with my full MM torque arm suspension kit....
    Last edited by great white; 11-28-2016 at 10:08 PM.

  9. #109

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    My doors aren't great, but they're fixable some day, and I was fishing for a '85-'86 driver's side molding, lol
    Nope, Don't have one.

    Would have been easier if you just came out and asked.

    I like "directness"..... not rudeness, but directness.....

  10. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by great white View Post
    Nope, Don't have one.

    Would have been easier if you just came out and asked.

    I like "directness"..... not rudeness, but directness.....
    Why on earth Ford decided to use a different (central groove) molding for '85/'86, is, like all sorts of other things I guess, beyond me.

    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  11. #111

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Why on earth Ford decided to use a different (central groove) molding for '85/'86, is, like all sorts of other things I guess, beyond me.

    You mean like 3 different versions of the side window glass for hardtop, t roof and convertible?


  12. #112

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    1987 was the last full year of production for the T-tops. There are early 1988 models with T-tops, but are the same setup as the 87 models. The convertible used the same doors in 1987 and then mid production 1988 they went to the full length windows that did away with the mirror mount.

    If all of the parts are from an 87 or 88 model, make sure to purchase the weatherstripping for those years as there are some differences between the year models. Good Luck!

    You sir, just made me have a WTF panic moment.

    All the talk of model years got my curiosity up so I jumped out of bed and went to look at the sticker on the driver's door.

    I realized it was the replacement door (white inside) but figured I'd look anyways since I was up.

    The wanker had sprayed over the sticker with the flat black. Grabbed a red scotch pad and started scraping.

    Eventually, the date code popped out: manuf 04/91.

    WTF!?!?!


    It's gotta be a g-d convertible door! No way it's (at least not originally) a t-top door with a 1991 vin!

    Now I'm panicked. Did they swap the glass? Did bubba lie to me? Can I even get him to give my money back? Ive already told my other guy I don't need the door glass he had! I'm so screwed!

    Charlie Brown:


    Aaaaaauuuuuggggghhhhh!!!!!

    OK, OK, OK.

    Calm down here man.

    Let's figure this out before I drop a brick right where I'm standing.

    I grab a large sheet of paper and the passenger glass i know came from a t top car (I took it out). I trace the profile of the glass and cut it out since a direct comparison between drivers and passenger glass is going to be very hard with one glass still in its door (didn't want to take door apart in case I had to return it) and the opposite direction curves.

    I tape it onto the convertible door glass and: its a match.

    At least enough of a match for my shaky tracing and scissoring to say for sure it's not the heavily sloped back convertible glass.

    It's also thick like t-tops glass.

    So, calmed again i run the power window glass back down into the door for its protection and I trudge back off to bed.

    I think I'm going to need a valium or trazodone to get back to sleep tonight though....
    Last edited by great white; 11-29-2016 at 10:18 AM.

  13. #113
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Sorry! Didn't mean to cause any panic, was just trying to help you avoid issues others have had due to the different T-top weatherstripping possibilities.

    I know even with my 82 being an OEM T-top there are some screwy stuff going on. My weatherstripping matches the later 84-86 length rather than the 81-83 which doesn't make sense.

    Hope you were able to get back to sleep. Best of luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #114

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Sorry! Didn't mean to cause any panic, was just trying to help you avoid issues others have had due to the different T-top weatherstripping possibilities.

    I know even with my 82 being an OEM T-top there are some screwy stuff going on. My weatherstripping matches the later 84-86 length rather than the 81-83 which doesn't make sense.

    Hope you were able to get back to sleep. Best of luck!
    No worries. Parts are either here or already on the way.

    One way or another, I'll make it work....

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    1987 was the last full year of production for the T-tops. There are early 1988 models with T-tops, but are the same setup as the 87 models. The convertible used the same doors in 1987 and then mid production 1988 they went to the full length windows that did away with the mirror mount.

    If all of the parts are from an 87 or 88 model, make sure to purchase the weatherstripping for those years as there are some differences between the year models. Good Luck!
    1988 T-roof had door mount mirrors around the same time that the convertible doors switched over
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  16. #116
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    1988 T-roof had door mount mirrors around the same time that the convertible doors switched over
    I should have been more clear in my post. I was trying to say that if the doors were '88 models with the standard mirror mount then the weatherstripping, etc. is the same as the '87 models.

    Sorry for the confusion.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #117

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I should have been more clear in my post. I was trying to say that if the doors were '88 models with the standard mirror mount then the weatherstripping, etc. is the same as the '87 models.

    Sorry for the confusion.
    No worries brother.

    My parts are a mix and match T-roof package. All factory (IE: CC) parts, but well worth the time to discuss and make sure it all works together.

    The roof is cut off an 83, the passenger door and glass is off the same 83. The tops I don't think are 83 as the guy said he bought them as replacements, but they fit the top just fine. One has provisions for the lock, one does not. I've got two lockable ones on the way from Ontario that are in better shape cosmetically. All they can say for sure for those is they are early 80's glass since the guy has a bunch of them. 9 piece rubber kit is coming from LMR for the 83 parts roof. The parts roof will also give up it skin in the front in order to replace the current front roof skin on my car (rusted out corners). I've got 250 1/4 steel rivets on the way to do the roof structure and the door braces. Roof trim is from the 83 and the seal retainers will also come from the 83 roof. I'll be swapping in the power window motors, regulators and tracks from the (supposedly) 88 doors. I'll scab the door lock actuators from the 88 doors since I have them. The 88 doors will also contribute the drivers door glass. I'll be using my own 83 doors and cutting the frames off, using the rusty doors I have here as templates/samples. My doors are rust free, donors are in various stages of rust so will contribute glass and mechanical bits only and then end up on the scrap pile.

    I did a fair bit of reading on this (and other) forums before searching out parts. I think I've got it nailed down except for the the cutting and swapping.

    Last edited by great white; 11-29-2016 at 03:41 PM.

  18. #118
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I think you will be alright with your mix/match T-top setup. Most of the parts are interchangeable and didn't change alot over the years. The weatherstripping differences seem to often be the biggest issue.

    I personally have not used the LMR weatherstripping kit, but others have not been too happy with it. Everything seems to fit, but getting the T-top glass in can be difficult and getting everything aligned and sealing properly with the LMR kit seems to be extremely difficult. The weatherstripping also seems to be extremely hard with little to no give or compliance. Hopefully your install doesn't have the same issues, but just wanted to give you a heads up.

    After reading most of the reviews and issues, I hope to avoid those by using the Soff Seal weatherstripping. I know Summit Racing sells it, but not sure if any others do. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #119

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I think you will be alright with your mix/match T-top setup. Most of the parts are interchangeable and didn't change alot over the years. The weatherstripping differences seem to often be the biggest issue.

    I personally have not used the LMR weatherstripping kit, but others have not been too happy with it. Everything seems to fit, but getting the T-top glass in can be difficult and getting everything aligned and sealing properly with the LMR kit seems to be extremely difficult. The weatherstripping also seems to be extremely hard with little to no give or compliance. Hopefully your install doesn't have the same issues, but just wanted to give you a heads up.

    After reading most of the reviews and issues, I hope to avoid those by using the Soff Seal weatherstripping. I know Summit Racing sells it, but not sure if any others do. Good Luck!
    We'll see about the LMR stuff I guess.

    I'm committed at this point.

    I do have all the old stuff. but, well.....it's the old stuff. Flat, crushed old and even torn here and there.....

    I'm kind of stalled on the car for the next while anyways. The Lincoln 180 I ordered isn't going to be delivered until this coming monday now. Without it, I can't do anything with the floor and I refuse to use my crappy little 11o flux core wire feed. I'm going to try and salvage some of the weekend by pulling the 8.8 back out and doing the 3.73 gear setup.
    Last edited by great white; 11-29-2016 at 09:26 PM.

  20. #120

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    Not pretty, but getting there slowly:



    My new lincoln 180 is making it much easier, although skip welding sucks no matter how you look at it.

    More goodies showed up:







    The wheel is from a mercury, but i dont really care as i'm going to cover it in leather.
    Last edited by great white; 12-03-2016 at 10:52 AM.

  21. #121
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Welds look fine. They'll be under the carpet. And there are always grinder wheels to smooth out welds if necessary.

  22. #122

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    I said it before and I'll say it again: skip welding sucks!



    Lol!

  23. #123

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    Al-rightly.

    Up early on a Sunday so lets get this damned floor finished today!

    All I really have left is a little rust repair around the firewall and get the floor burned in at the rocker panels.

    Then I can move on to the cowl repair or do the subframe connectors.

    Probably the subframe connectors as my torque arm rear suspension is scheduled to be UPS delivered tomorrow.

    That way I can get it out of the boxes and on the car to minimize how much space its going to take up in the house. I'm already spilling out in to the basement rooms with piles of parts......

  24. #124

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    Well, it's done:



    Pretty?

    Not really.

    I got tired of grinding out the welds at some point and started not worrying about how it looks. You can see that in the seat mount welds and a few small patches added to the firewall after I discovered a few localized rust pocks. It's already altered so it's never going to be a "concours" car. I wouldn't want that anyways: booooooorrrriiiiiinnnnnggggg! That's fine for some guys, but I want to drive the wheels off it!

    Functional?

    Yep.



    Still have to hit it with seam sealer.

    I've got a small section to weld from under the car where the cross brace is but that's not a big deal as it's going up in the air soon in order to do the subframe connectors and the rear suspension.

    It will be sitting on it's suspension to do the subframe connectors (jackstands under the rear axle and ramps under the front wheels) and on it's frame rails in order to do the rear end.
    Last edited by great white; 12-04-2016 at 04:53 PM.

  25. #125

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    Tried out some super-duper glass polish we use at work on aircraft canopy's:



    Daummn! It's so clear you can't even tell there's glass in there!

    Last edited by great white; 12-04-2016 at 08:48 PM.

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