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Thread: 1983 GL project

  1. #126

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    Took the plunge and cut off the top panel.

    F'N G-D MICE!!



    GRRRRRR!!!!!!!

    Made his bloody home in the recess under the wiper cowl! With jute from the interior and shredding the once pristine hood pad no less!

    There's a drain right there for water, so guess where all his toxic corrosive pile of p!ss went?



    That's daylight you see through that lower plenum floor.

    What I though was just rust from debris pile up was because of one friggin mouse!

    Which also took out the drivers side floor......


    GRRRRRRR!!!!!!



    Well, at least it's fixable and not as bad as I though it was.

    I'll pop out the spot welds on the air horn, a quick clean up with a wire wheel, a few patch pieces, paint and back together it goes.

    Then I can move on to the subframe connectors. While I'm down there, I'm going to seam weld the existing subframe stampings to the floor for added strength, just in case my plug welds aren't as good as I think they are.
    Last edited by great white; 12-09-2016 at 07:53 PM.

  2. #127

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    Brown truck just left.

    I have no space left in the garage now!

    Will have to take over a room in the basement for storage.....

  3. #128

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    Ugh, I despise rust repair.

    Took the cowl off:



    Then cut out the rusted piece around the air horn:



    What a mess:



    Oh well, at least I will be able to de-rust, paint and seal the entire plenum floor so I should never have to open it up ever again...

  4. #129
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    That doesn't look like any fun at all!

    I have done a couple of cowl replacement and repairs over the years. One of my more disliked areas to have to work. It's amazing how many spot welds hold the darn thing together.

    You're making great progress, keep up the good work.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #130

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    Used the original rotted out piece as a template:



    Start of the new piece:



    It's not perfect, but its also the first cut so it's not bad either. Further work will get it to where it needs to be.

    I'm just going to seam weld a new air horn to the opening rather than spot weld. Will make it easier for me in the long run.

    There's a reinforcement piece that welds underneath to hold and position the vent duct. It has to be positioned just right to line up properly with the dash vent opening. I'll use the rotted piece to locate the spot welds (drilled out holes in pic above), drill the same size hole in the new piece and the old spot weld on the reinforcement piece will line right up. Should be at least close enough to locate the vent properly.
    Last edited by great white; 12-08-2016 at 08:50 PM.

  6. #131

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    Great progress, Sir
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #132

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    Coming along nicely:



    First burn in. Grinding it down and decided to end the day on a high note with the panel solidly in place. My grinder disc needs replacing anyways. I'll run out tomorrow morning and grab another.

    I also drilled the spot weld locations and fit the vent duct retaining ring:





    Doesn't get much better than that! The ducting will be in the same location as when Ford first put it together as I transferred the spot weld holes off old rotted panel by laying over the new once it was burned in. If nothing else, it will sure be close enough to fit up to the dash vent. Ford production tolerances were "liberal" enough that even a slight out of position should work just fine.

    Tomorrow I'll finish grinding, mig up any pin holes, finish shaping the vent opening, strip the rest of the plenum floor and give it a coat of DOM 16.

    With any luck, the upper cowl will be back in place by Sunday night and that will wrap up the big rust repairs.

    Then I can get back to installing new bits on the car like the MM rear torque arm suspension kit!

    Last edited by great white; 12-09-2016 at 05:41 PM.

  8. #133

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    Vent horn built, welded in and corrosion converter/sealed:







    After it cures up I'm going to hit all the welds with body seam sealer for good measure and top coat it all with Tremclad (like Rustoleum for those in the 'states reading this).

    Tomorrow, hopefully, I should be able to weld the top cowl back on.

    Last edited by great white; 12-10-2016 at 03:36 PM.

  9. #134

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    Won't ever be a problem again
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #135

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    Is Dom 16 Canadian por 15?

  11. #136

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Is Dom 16 Canadian por 15?
    Sort of, and at the same time; not really.

    http://dominionsureseal.com/index.ph...rts-and-pints-

    Dom 16 is half the price of por 15 and supposed to be just as good (or better) at killing rust.

    Time will tell.....
    Last edited by great white; 12-11-2016 at 06:35 AM.

  12. #137

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    Got a couple things done lately.

    Built connectors:



    Built the 31 spline, trac lock, 3.73, 8.8 axle and installed complete torque arm rear suspension:



    Got most of the t-roof installed;



    "Solved" hood clearance issue:





    Installed "new" dash, sn95 booster/master, clutch/brake pedals and the tilt column:



    Sn95 booster was a major pita. Had to slot the holes pretty severely and reshape the rear corner of the tower a lot.

    Also, got rid of the GMC K2500 that's been a source of a lot of heartache (financially and mentally) for me and bought a new truck:



    Great rig. Light years ahead of the old gm crap I had.

    Last edited by great white; 04-22-2017 at 09:41 AM.

  13. #138

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    Last edited by great white; 08-13-2017 at 04:36 PM.

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