Close



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 56
  1. #26
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    San Diego, Ca.
    Posts
    2,477

    Default

    Awesome!!!!!
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    4,660

    Default

    Congrats on the buy, that's definatly a unique Capri..
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  3. #28
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Thank you, I'm sure I will have plenty of questions in the near future. For now the car does run, drive and stop but needs a thorough top to bottom, front to back going over. I'll post some updated pictures this weekend.

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    China Grove, North Carolina
    Posts
    5,267

    Default

    Awesome that it was bought and we get to follow along with it here. You'll find this site to be very helpful.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    Congrats!!!! awesome buy wish it was closer!!! cant wait to see more

  6. #31
    FEP Power Member 83gtstang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Shreveport LA
    Posts
    2,095

    Default

    I love it. Michigan, no wonder it's rusting. Glad you saved it.

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lexington, MA
    Posts
    2,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WideRS View Post
    Thank you, I'm sure I will have plenty of questions in the near future. For now the car does run, drive and stop but needs a thorough top to bottom, front to back going over. I'll post some updated pictures this weekend.
    Whatever you do, don't rip it apart then try to sell. You'll thank us later

  8. #33
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Whatever you do, don't rip it apart then try to sell. You'll thank us later

    LOL, No worries on that.
    Cleaned it up a little bit today to see what I'm starting with. The worst rust on this car is the rear hatch and the surface rust where the fiberglass flares were joined to the quarter panels. Under the hood, floor pans and doors are in excellent condition.
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  9. #34
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Couple moreName:  IMG_3361.jpg
Views: 301
Size:  92.5 KBName:  IMG_3362.jpg
Views: 304
Size:  92.4 KBName:  IMG_3363.jpg
Views: 303
Size:  103.6 KB

  10. #35
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Last ones for now.Name:  IMG_3373.jpg
Views: 303
Size:  83.0 KBName:  IMG_3374.jpg
Views: 309
Size:  88.5 KBName:  IMG_3375.jpg
Views: 302
Size:  85.7 KB

  11. #36

    Default

    Very nice i was interested also let me know if you sell it.

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    Wow!! Cleaned up amazing!!!
    Can u post pic of door tag and buck tag?????

  13. #38
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor MI
    Posts
    1,591

    Default

    very Cool looking car with lots of ASC parts to finish the look. Hoping to see it this summer sometime.
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  14. #39
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quick update, the as bought tires dated 1986, were severely dry rotted with flat spots and were hard as cement were replaced with BFG G-Force Sport Comp-2's, front 225/55ZR/16 rear 245/50ZR/16, the wheels are made in England 8JX16 Compomotive 3-piece, Changed engine oil and filter, replaced coolant, ordered all new rotors/drums hardware and pads/shoes, rear end gear oil/friction modifier and gasket, 50wt oil for the NWC T5 and complete tune up parts which will be installed throughout this week, The front end is tight.

    Since it is plated and insured I couldn't resist the urge to take it for a short blast yesterday, and it is a blast to drive :-) when I returned I found 1 of the freeze plugs is seeping coolant so I will replace all of those as well.

    The current plan for the car is to address the rust/paint issues, this is not going to turn into a resto or project as I want to drive this car this summer.
    Going to use body filler to re fair the rear flares since the bonding seams are cracked and address the rust on the top edge of them, repair small dent in hood and roof, cut and weld new metal lip on the hatch then...............................friend with a paint booth is going to plastip the car in black with an added glossifier.

    I know it's not the proper way to do this car, but for now it will stabilize the body issues and I think it would look sinister in a satin black....unless you guys talk me out of it and convince me to drive it this summer with the body in it's current condition which is not too bad, at dusk from 20ft away..
    Last edited by WideRS; 04-02-2016 at 02:46 PM.

  15. #40
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Also there is no door sticker and I was unable to locate the buck tag.

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    I would drive as is!!!

  17. #42
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    I would drive as is!!!
    With rust and all? thankfully the windows are tinted...LOL

    I also need a fuel filler door if anyone out there has one for sale.

  18. #43

    Default

    VERY COOL

  19. #44

    Default

    Great looking car. That will be fun to drive this summer. Where are you located in Michigan? I live in the Hillsdale area.

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  20. #45
    New User
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    New Baltimore, MI
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Woody86vertible View Post
    Great looking car. That will be fun to drive this summer. Where are you located in Michigan? I live in the Hillsdale area.

    Thanks,
    Jeff
    I'm in New Baltimore.

  21. #46

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WideRS View Post
    Quick update, the as bought tires dated 1986, were severely dry rotted with flat spots and were hard as cement were replaced with BFG G-Force Sport Comp-2's, front 225/55ZR/16 rear 245/50ZR/16, the wheels are made in England 8JX16 Compomotive 3-piece, Changed engine oil and filter, replaced coolant, ordered all new rotors/drums hardware and pads/shoes, rear end gear oil/friction modifier and gasket, 50wt oil for the NWC T5 and complete tune up parts which will be installed throughout this week, The front end is tight.

    Since it is plated and insured I couldn't resist the urge to take it for a short blast yesterday, and it is a blast to drive :-) when I returned I found 1 of the freeze plugs is seeping coolant so I will replace all of those as well.

    The current plan for the car is to address the rust/paint issues, this is not going to turn into a resto or project as I want to drive this car this summer.
    Going to use body filler to re fair the rear flares since the bonding seams are cracked and address the rust on the top edge of them, repair small dent in hood and roof, cut and weld new metal lip on the hatch then...............................friend with a paint booth is going to plastip the car in black with an added glossifier.

    I know it's not the proper way to do this car, but for now it will stabilize the body issues and I think it would look sinister in a satin black....unless you guys talk me out of it and convince me to drive it this summer with the body in it's current condition which is not too bad, at dusk from 20ft away..
    Sounds like a good plan. You might as well make it presentable to drive for the summer then tear it down and fix it better over the winter. I bought a Plastidip kit, the sprayer, dip, accessories, and so on a few years ago. Never used it though.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  22. #47
    FEP Power Member 83gtstang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Shreveport LA
    Posts
    2,095

    Default

    You need to kill the rust. Use a rust converter then maybe skip the dipping. Will continue to rust even if coated unless it's stopped. Then drive the wheels off it. Enjoy and leave as is. It's ready to drive I can see that it's happy! This one is a time capsule... don't touch it...will lose it's soul. LOL


    http://m.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-R...-202960538-_-N
    Last edited by 83gtstang; 04-03-2016 at 08:47 AM.

  23. #48
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,210

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WideRS View Post
    The current plan for the car is to address the rust/paint issues, this is not going to turn into a resto or project as I want to drive this car this summer.
    Going to use body filler to re fair the rear flares since the bonding seams are cracked and address the rust on the top edge of them, repair small dent in hood and roof, cut and weld new metal lip on the hatch then...............................friend with a paint booth is going to plastip the car in black with an added glossifier.

    I know it's not the proper way to do this car, but for now it will stabilize the body issues and I think it would look sinister in a satin black....unless you guys talk me out of it and convince me to drive it this summer with the body in it's current condition which is not too bad, at dusk from 20ft away..
    Great to hear you are getting this back on the road and as quickly as possible. As stated above you need to address the rust ASAP. I recommend Eastwood Rust Encapsulator as it is an excellent product, inexpensive, and easy to use. Once the rust has been neutralized I would turn my attention to the body flair cosmetics. Personally I would make sure that any cracks or separation of the flares from the body are addressed. I would do this with a quality Structural Urethane Adhesive. 3m, Duramix, Lord Fusor, and others all make this type of product. No it's not cheap but this is the type of stuff that bonds the Corvette bodies from the factory these days and it works really well. You can do most of your finish detail work with the product before it cures and then only use body filler as needed for the final touches. Bottom line is body filler has little to no structural strength and your cracks will just reappear. Better to fix it right now and not have to deal with it later. Feel free to PM me if you want/need more information.

    As for the plastic dip . . . I think they can be cool and I have considered it for a couple of my Foxes while I get them finished, but are not ready for paint just yet. I personally am not a Red car fan, well at least not a bright red kind of guy. Personally the blacked out plastic dip is over done for me, but I am sure the car would look fine in black. Personally since it doesn't really cost much more if any in some cases, why not go with a color to jazz it up. If you aren't familiar with this site then you should check it out. https://www.dipyourcar.com/?gclid=Cj...kY7RoCXzTw_wcB

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    Last edited by wraithracing; 05-23-2016 at 07:56 AM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #49

    Default

    I am now the proud owner of this widebody
    Thank you Lee

  25. #50
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    San Diego, Ca.
    Posts
    2,477

    Default

    Congratulations. Pics are needed. ..
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •