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  1. #51

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    Mike, thanks for your input! I'll throw the diff and steering rack on tonight and mock some bracing up.

  2. #52
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    Very cool build, maybe you can get Doug demuro to test it on YouTube and compare it to some of his exotics he gets to drive. I’d love to see the Doug score on this One!

  3. #53

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    Great build! I too dreamed of building an AWD mustang. Spent a few afternoons at you-pull-its looking at potential donors. I'll never get around to it. Guess I'll have to live vicariously through you. Lol.

    Subscribing for more cool pictures and updates.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  4. #54

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    Here are shots from the side with the diff and steering rack installed:
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    And here is where I've started on bracing the back mounts:
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    I'm building them up like the towers that the explorer had.
    After some gussets on the motor mounts I think I'll go ahead and call it, I'm eager to drive this.

    Next is brakes! My brackets to use the cobra calipers should be done sometime this week.

  5. #55
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    Brakes have preoccupied my time for the past week or so.

    After some discussion I decided to go with 94-98 cobra front calipers with the matching 13" rotors up front.
    I now have cobra brakes all around, kinda.

    Attachment 117584

    Here is where I'm at right now. I've got the caliper bolted to the spindle with a bracket I designed and 3d printed.

    Attachment 117585

    The game here is providing mounting points that fall on two concentric circles that have about 6mil difference in radius.
    I'm using Fusion 360 to do the cad work and I have a Maker Select V2 3d printer with a fair amount of mods.

    Attachment 117586
    Attachment 117587
    This is how the bracket and pad sits on the rotor.

    The pad has clean and clear contact with the rotor and the caliper bracket has 4 mm of clearance between the inside and edge of the rotor, about 2mm is the target gap between both faces and the bracket but that still need some tweaking with my part.

    I would like to use socket cap screws between the bracket and the caliper but I need to find some m12 1.75 x 30mm screws to test fit it.
    This is the problem RaceFab had with the four pot brakes on the 1998 Saleen Explorer XP8.

    https://insight.adsrvr.org/track/evn...:ngtk7da&fmt=3


    from https://jalopnik.com/for-11-000-coul...lor-1794594199

    The key thing is even the 4.0 SOHC V6 was faster and quicker than the V8, unless it had the optional 286 hp Supercharged engine.


    The 13in vented disc four piston calipers were a withdrawn option, std on the 286 hp.
    These front disc brakes were eventually recalled and replaced with stock Explorer calipers, due to an unforeseen lack of structural integrity.
    The brakes were retrofitted back down to the 11.8"'s due to that caliper mounting. Steve Saleen doesn't under engineer anything, but on a 50% split system, the front hubs need very strong caliper clamping.

    I had a 98 Exploder, 16.6 second 1/4 mile, auto, 205 hp V6, and 4200 pounds all up. When the power was split 33% front, 67% rear like the 1986 XR4X4i and European Saphire and Escort Cosworth (all Merkur based), they downgraded the front IFS weight, and fittings to make is easier to engineer.


    I think you should five or even six point mount it, with three extra bolts in shear at the front (leading) end, as if you were doing front or leading mount the calipers, then drop the close to the caliper lower bolt.

    Re-casting uprights isn't an option, but reworking the calmping to be realiable is 100% fine. The ultimate goal is getting the caliper to transfer is on and off claping force to the whole updright without it ever breaking or spinning or cracking. Whatever gets the job done.

    Making a 360 degree mount with three extra bolt holes that still allows the tie rod ends to be accessed is fine, even if the weight and complications go up.

    The Explorer is just an awesome device, it was just the invasive Sensatrak and the lack of IRS with a high roller over angle that made it bait. The engineering is good everywhere, except the torsion bars....never liked torsion bars on any exotic. 901 series Porsche 911's, Alfa Romeo GTV's, Mopar A's and B bodies with proper Elephant engines, the system always is an unpredicatle porpice movement reported in every version of it. Your front coil overs faithfully follow the pushrod coil action of the 1997 in carnation of the Summit Racing QuadraDeuce 32.

    Some others will chip in a give you some additional clues. The 13" disks really work out the caliper mounts. Just pretend your Steve S, and don't stop until you find something that answers the problem.

  6. #56

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    That's very interesting! You first link doesn't work but do you have pictures of these brackets?

    I wouldn't be opposed to a 360 bracket, but I don't think there is the space for it. I will ponder it though.

    I don't know if I mentioned it but currently I'm getting these brackets made up at a shop in 3/8 steel and with spacers to get the thickness right. A large part of this decision was mimicking what I'd seen in other kits (rock crawlers, old datsun hard bodies, even kits for fox bodies).

    That being said I am concerned about safety so I will keep your suggestion in mind.

  7. #57
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    That's very interesting! You first link doesn't work but do you have pictures of these brackets?

    I wouldn't be opposed to a 360 bracket, but I don't think there is the space for it. I will ponder it though.

    I don't know if I mentioned it but currently I'm getting these brackets made up at a shop in 3/8 steel and with spacers to get the thickness right. A large part of this decision was mimicking what I'd seen in other kits (rock crawlers, old datsun hard bodies, even kits for fox bodies).

    That being said I am concerned about safety so I will keep your suggestion in mind.

    I would just read through some of this, and ask a few simple questions.

    https://streetwiseparts.com/products...s-xp8-explorer



    For the Saleen Alcon 13" Brake Rotors XP8 Explorer, the reported problem seams to be caliper to wheel running clearance and flexure of the caliper, probably not the rotors.

    AFAIK, they didn't use an adaptor, but a new kind of AP Racing four pot caliper that used the existing mounting points, and hence the difference between the early and late SN 95's and the early and late XR8. The two wheel offsets for the 17" wheels exist, but in addition, Saleen had different caliper bolt spacings so no intermediate adaptor was used



    http://www.saleenclubofamerica.com/S.../1994-2004.htm

    The two bolt mounting could be updated by making a 3D scan of both sides of the upright, and you could make a sandwitch adaptor in two 3/8" halves, and grout (hardfill) the two parts together as iron, cast iron and cement grout have the same expansion co-efficent.

    Using a combination stitch and butt weld the outer surfaces, you could seal the two parts together without heating the uprights. This is similar to Chemset Dyna bolting to a cement beam. The bracket you've made could then be buttressed onto the whole upright.

  8. #58

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    just plain awesome.

  9. #59

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    Thanks tiretread!

    I've got the k-member to a point I'm very happy with. I've got confidence in its strength so it's good to go.
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    I'm working on getting the trans tunnel to a better state. I had to do some more welding on it to fill some gaps. It's a big pain in the butt. I figure I'll spray a bedliner on the floor or fit carpet so as long as it's sealed I'm happy.

  10. #60

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    Wow man, this is rad! Amazing stuff. Should be fun to drive.....more fun i mean..

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  11. #61

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    I've been a little busy the last month or so but have kept up some progress.

    I've got the rear brake lines sorted out and front's just need some shortlines inside the wheel wells.

    I rebuilt the front diff with gears to match the rear.

    I got the oil pan welded up as seen here:
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    It isn't the prettiest but it doesnt leak (well not that I know of yet) and it clears the diff. I added back some volume to make up for what I cut out too.

    Next came assembling everything on the kmember and some dollies. I was much easier for me to build it up and slide it under the car. I got an ebay 6 puck clutch, I've seen lots of online build use something like this and have good results.
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  12. #62

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    And here it is bolted in.
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    I got a good laugh out of this. I bolted on the shifter that came out of the truck and actually don't hate where it puts the shifter. It'll probably hit the dash and i want to shorten the throw but for now it's a cool look.
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    I need to make longer pushrods, at the right height I want the push rods were almost at the max length. I think I'll add an inch or so on em and finish them up. Right now they're at the middle of their adjustment and it's pretty low. I wouldn't mind tracking that but I gotta get this in and out of a driveway lol.

    Up next is finishing the tunnel and then turbo time!

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Very impressive. Ken Block Hoonigan Mustang shifter location!


    asastang on my Fordsix forum used a link rod set up to relocate the T5 shifter for a 67 Stanf further back. I've been unable to login since late 2017, but its easy to relocate it back with shorter throws.

  14. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Very impressive. Ken Block Hoonigan Mustang shifter location!


    asastang on my Fordsix forum used a link rod set up to relocate the T5 shifter for a 67 Stanf further back. I've been unable to login since late 2017, but its easy to relocate it back with shorter throws.
    Thats the plan. I grabbed the old shifter so that I could reuse the nub that attaches to the transmission top.

  15. #65
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Your ideas are great. As stated, its a Ken Block trans tunnel in a Fox,



    and everything maps out far better than I thought it would.


    I'm sure you've gotten the brakes sorted.

    Everything fits with joyfull precision. As a New Zealand Snow Belt guy, props to you!

  16. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Your ideas are great. As stated, its a Ken Block trans tunnel in a Fox,



    and everything maps out far better than I thought it would.


    I'm sure you've gotten the brakes sorted.

    Everything fits with joyfull precision. As a New Zealand Snow Belt guy, props to you!
    Thanks! I'm a big Ken Block fan myself. The e-brake comes when I can figure out a quick way to decouple the front and rear lol

  17. #67
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Great progress! Keep up the good work. If there would be a 6-speed kit available for a four eyed fox that costs under $8500 I would own one.

  18. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Great progress! Keep up the good work. If there would be a 6-speed kit available for a four eyed fox that costs under $8500 I would own one.
    The hard part would be finding a suitable 6 speed that doesn't take up half that budget though.

    *edit*

    some of the new mustang transmission might work, adapters can add up though (trans to engine and 4x4 tailhousing)
    Last edited by jeremyp; 04-03-2018 at 02:18 PM.

  19. #69

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    I've been working for the past week or so on cleaning up the transmission tunnel. I found I couldn't reuse the old ebrake spot so I decided to redo the whole top of the tunnel. If you look back you'll see i had a seam running along the top of it. I hated it! So I made a new top and some side for a cleaner look.
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    And as you can see I've built a remote shifter. It's got some slop in it I'd like to take care of but it does work.

    I've also been working on the steering shaft. I found that the new mustang's use the same connection on the steering rack, I was able to get a complete steering shaft on ebay for very cheap and modify it to work. The short shaft isn't the prettiest but it's study, the longer shaft is collapsible . I welded the old joint on that connects to the steering column (beveled the ends of the two shafts then welded then slipped a collar over and welded). I've got a support bearing in the mail and this should be good to go.
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    And I got some go fast bits.
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    I got a 67mm turbo from CXRacing and some (I believe) mild steel headers to chop up to spin a turbo. I should be starting on the hot side piping this weekend. The plan is 3" into a t4 flange with a 2" crossover using vbands.
    Last edited by jeremyp; 04-27-2018 at 08:39 AM.

  20. #70

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    Good progress. You are wise to keep that crossover small with a 302. Should help spool the turbo up faster.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  21. #71
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yummi !




    Fox foot park brake time. If you got room. Nice changes.



    My 4 wd Nissan Stagea still runs one. The thing is its not fly-off, and my car is automatic, but there is room for some kind of parking or E brake Honigan Style.

  22. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yummi !




    Fox foot park brake time. If you got room. Nice changes.



    My 4 wd Nissan Stagea still runs one. The thing is its not fly-off, and my car is automatic, but there is room for some kind of parking or E brake Honigan Style.
    I've got an ebrake out of an sn95 mustang. I figured it'd be easiest to match up all the parts from the same kind of car for it. I'm a little short on space above the drive shaft so I'm gonna bring the cables in and have a good bit visible. Race cars amiright?

    I got a good start on the hot side piping. I chopped the flange off of the passenger side header and welded some fresh 16ga 3" pipe pointing forward then up.
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    I should have good clearance from the coilover and the valve cover on the downpipe. DS header's got a 2" v band fitting welded on (not pictured). Hopefully Tuesday evening I can get most of the crossover done!

  23. #73
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    Very cool interesting build, @jeremyp just curious but why didn't you use parts of the explorer trans tunnel?
    Last edited by eddo617; 04-30-2018 at 12:39 PM.

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by eddo617 View Post
    Very cool interesting build, @jeremyp just curious but why didn't you use parts of the explorer trans tunnel?
    I've got the motor sitting much higher than it would have been in the explorer so I could get a decent ground clearance for the front diff and not have the car sit like a truck.

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    Explorer tunnel is lower than the stock mustang tunnel it seems.

  25. #75
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    I get that, just thought you'd take the top part of the tunnel and part of the firewall and blend it into the mustang firewall and floorpan with pieces of scrap metal

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