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  1. #1

    Default 80 AWD Coupe Build

    This was a car of firsts, it was my first car, the car I learned to drive stick in and the first car I would pull a part and (often try) and put back together. It isn't the prettiest but somewhere between sentimental value and its surprisingly decent shape its where we begin. This car started its life as a 2.3 na 4 cylinder, after the timing belt snapped, I got my hands on a 302 apparantly out of a 80's van. After some time got the car driving, kinda ugly but it worked until the t-5 gave up the ghost and turned some of its innards into soup. Thats where the car was until about a month ago. I hauled the car from my parents house and started gutting it. When I wasn't gutting it I was researching for what I could do with it. I found a low mileage '03 cobra IRS for 800 bucks on craigslist and a 1996 Ford explorer for another 800 (P/O said it was running bad which they could have solved if they traced the plug wires and saw cylinder 7 plug wire had exited it's boot). When I first put the 302 in the car I had amassed parts to put in the car but never got around to installing (seriously, thank you college!) and now I've started to resell for actual profit.

    And thats a bunch of text so I'll keep it short. I've gutted the car, removed the tar on the floor and welded in 2" square tube (.125") from front to back, dropped the rear end and removed some unused brackets as well as patching a large hole in the trunk floor.

    Things I intend to do:
    ~350 hp from the motor then add turbo(s) to hit 500
    Super t10 transmission
    Build K member to use explorer's SLA front suspension (It should work, I've made many measurements)


    Now here are some pictures:
    http://i.imgur.com/YAGX6kw.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/gLri7b2.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/xf5wl0i.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/Bdflzbl.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/hujZWG1.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/E2ejqha.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/BltyG1r.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/wG27BrS.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/1CHtnMq.jpg
    Last edited by jeremyp; 05-12-2017 at 08:41 AM.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Great start. I know how rewarding it is to finally get working on a neglected project.

  3. #3

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    Its been a busy month or so but that hasn't really stopped me from getting some work. Aside from getting the IRS installed into the car I've pulled the dash, HVAC and every last bit of wiring from the car.

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    I wire brushed the area under the fenders and sprayed some VHT satin black epoxy paint and then sand blasted the rest of the front end, replaced some rotted out metal where the hood hinges mount and sprayed it satin black too. Yes my garage is like a desert, yes I wore a respirator, and no I didn't cover the windshield (It's got a large crack across it, it'll be replaced soon)
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    Took this shot of the the front end today before I left for work, looks pretty good. A couple runs but I can touch that up later. I know a couple things under the hood will get holes cut out and I might have to tweak the shock towers for my new suspension but it's much nicer to work on something that isn't covered in rust and 30 years of gunk.

    With the front end cleaned up I should be starting to work on the new suspension. I'm going to try and strip the explorer's front suspension this weekend and then make some jigs to recreate it.

  4. #4

    Default

    Excellent work! Are you using the Exploder's front suspension on the Mustang?
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  5. #5

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    Yes. This is quite the experiment of adapting an existing SLA setup, a super common one at that, to fit on another vehicle. Track width of the explorer IS wider than the mustang but really only by an inch or so, which is still less than that of the Cobra IRS.

    I don't anticipate it to be a 100% reproduction of the explorer's mounting points.
    I know I'm going to have to compensate for the increased camber from effectively lowering the front end.
    I might have to adjust the caster to something more friendly.
    Auckermann geometry will be fun as I shorten the wheel base by about 1ish (100.5 vs 111.5) inches but I believe there is a decent margin of error that is generally accepted.

    Aside from not wanting to modify the subframe/front frame rails, I would like to use stock explorer control arms as much as possible but I'm considering building adjustable upper control arms, which would help with adjusting camber and will absolutely be necessary if I'm pressed for space against the frame rails.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
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    That's a great start! I just picked up a similar 1980 coupe also for rebuild. Are you going with EFI or carb for the V8?

  7. #7

    Default

    EFI hand down. I have all the wiring from the 96 explorer if i want to use it but I think I'll be using a megasquirt to run it.

    In other news I've stripped the entire front suspension off the explorer and ordered many parts. I've got new ball joints and bushings for the lower control arms and new upper control arms (good price and the passenger side upper came from factory with caster adjustment I intend to do another way). After much research I bought a pair of QA1 12" coil-overs.

    I am picking up two more 03/04 cobra wheels this weekend and then I get to dive right into lots of fabricating.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    EFI hand down. I have all the wiring from the 96 explorer if i want to use it but I think I'll be using a megasquirt to run it.
    I think I am going to do the same with my '92 drivetrain going to the '80 coupe. I just got a quote from DIY Auto Tune after discussing what I need.

    "The Microsquirt is a very compact and ruggedized version of MS2. It doesn't really offer any advanced functionality, but it will handle (with excellence) the items you are asking for: control of fuel, TFI ignition, idle valve, and cooling fan.

    $369.00 MicroSqrt8: Assembled ECU (includes 8' flying lead harness)
    $64.00 GM3bar-map: MAP sensor
    $11.50 GM3bar_piggy: Pigtail connector for MAP sensor
    $17.75 CLTIATwPiggy: Coolant / Oil temperature sensor
    $22.25 IATwPiggy: Intake Air Temperature Sensor
    $9.00 38NPT-Bung_A: Aluminum bung for IAT sensor (Also available in stainless steel)
    $22.50 USB-2920: (Only needed if your laptop doesn’t have a true DB9 port)
    $516.00 Subtotal without wideband

    The wideband oxygen sensor system is optional, but a very useful tuning tool. We carry the Innovate line.
    Wideband Options
    $189.00 LC-2 without gauge (you can still view real-time AFR and datalog AFR through your laptop)
    $209.00 MTX-L digital gauge system
    $219.00 LC-2 with DB digital gauge (available in red, green, or blue)
    $259.00 LC-2 with G series analog gauge
    $349.00 LM-2 basic data logger with one sensor
    $479.00 LM-2 deluxe kit with one O2 sensor
    $669.00 LM-2 deluxe kit with two O2 sensors"

    Just info if you haven't looked this far into it. I'll subscribe to this just to see how you're coming.

  9. #9

    Default

    I'm about done making my negative suspension jig.

    Really, I am. The last thing to do it bolt the top and bottom half together and make two strips that go up to the rack and pinion's mounting points.

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    So here is what I've got. It might not look like much but it is solid and hits all the points I need to rebuild this, aside from the fact I'm going to have to move the upper arms to who knows where (I do know I'm shooting for 7 degrees of caster, about 3-4 degrees of negative camber).

    To help the process along, I went and bought a digital protractor from lowes. That thing has made the fabricating a breeze. With the ability to zero out the readout while sitting on the frame, I'm was able keep things square and level.

    I did get to work on cleaning up front end parts, I shaved off most of the cast lines on the calipers, caliper bracket, and spindle. I wanted it smoother for the probable application of powder coat and to spruce up the parts a bit. I only now realized the photos I took were awful, I'll take some later and post em.

    After I finish off the last couple bits and get metal, the real fun begins. Well, I probably will spend hours measuring for how this will sit...

  10. #10

    Default

    I haven't given up yet! Lots of life and other projects going on not to mention the planning this car required.

    At some point along the way I built a k member based off my explorer jig, and then i rebuilt it, and then realized i would need to shorten it some more.
    version 1:
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    version 2: more beefy, less weird shapes.
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    So after staring at the car on jack stands for so long I decided to take a long weekend get it back on all four wheels.
    I needed to shorten my k-member by two inches to move the lower control arm into a better location, make power steering rack mounting points, build the cantilevers for my suspension, more brackets for suspension stuff and lots and lots of welding.

    And it worked out, well I did order the wrong springs but I've sorted that out.

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    I get my new springs Thursday and will start fitting the motor and transmission Saturday. The k-member needs some clean up, welding and bracing still but that will come after I've added motor mounts to the mix.

    In case you haven't yet noticed, its going to be AWD.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member
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    Wow, that 's a lot of good work. It's a fascinating setup for suspension. Can't wait to see it on the road and how the AWD handles.
    Join The Conversation
    http://www.youtube.com/basinmotorsports

    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  12. #12

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    I anticipate some tweaking will be involved in setting up the suspensions. luckily the upper control arms are adjustable for camber and caster.

    Last night i got the car turned around in the garage (front by the garage door) so i have space to use my cherry picker.

  13. #13

    Default

    The next step in this process was to mount my motor into the k-member. I tacked some stuff together making heavy use of measuring tape and angle finders to get this thing square. I didn't (yet).

    One of the critical parts of this process was getting the motor as low as possible over the differential and steering rack. Not shown is my chopped all to bits oil pan. I believe its the stock oil pan for an early 80's k-member. I cut out between the pump and the pickup.

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    And here is how that fit into the car:
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    I believe it sits a little higher than normal but by how much I couldn't say (if someone want's to get me some measurements that would be cool...). I do want to reuse a stock hood so it looks like I might be building an intake.

    *Warning, foxbody gore ahead!*

    I did my due diligence of trying to fit the motor and transmission in the car without chopping the firewall up.

    You can't expect to just wish a perfect fit but you can get a fit with a sawzall and some death wheels.

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    With the transmission, transfer case and front drive shaft in place I went back and squared up the motor.
    I've got some sheet metal work ahead of me but I'm not too concerned. It feels very good to actually see the drive-train sitting in place.

  14. #14
    FEP Member dk5_cobra's Avatar
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    this is nuts. in for progress updates
    Devin

    1979 Mustang Cobra - IRS, MM Suspension, 302/t5
    Check out my build thread for tons of IRS info, and general restoration help. There's a little bit of everything -->goo.gl/krmqNz
    Pm's welcome if you have any questions

  15. #15

    Default

    Wow! I can't imagine how much fab work you'll have in this by the time you're done.

    Really interesting thread, thanks for posting your build.

  16. #16

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    Thanks for the interest in this guys! It is quite a task but it's something I really enjoy.

    Fab work can be very enjoyable, but when you have to deal with sub par tools(looking at you step drill bit that is dull in the middle...) or running out of cut off wheels in the middle of cutting out pieces, that can be frustrating.

    In other news, I got my trans cross member welded together last night. I would have included pictures but my phone decided to not save the pics I took.

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member
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    Have you tried to fit a driver's seat in with the transfer case in place?
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    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Basin Motorsports View Post
    Have you tried to fit a driver's seat in with the transfer case in place?
    Not yet. Here is the clearance:
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    Worst case is moving that post left or up to use the stock position.

    But I'll throw a seat in later and check it out.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Holy Crap!

    This is a wild build! You definitely have some mad fab skills. I will be following this one as it is intriguing and I can't wait to see how this plays out.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #20

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    Always wondered if an AWD mustang could be done. Pretty ingenious use of explorer parts. Will be interesting to see how this plays out.

    Maybe you haven't got this far, but have a few questions:

    - Was the explorer a full-time AWD in that it has some kind of differential in the T-case for on-road use?

    - How are you planning to address the steering shaft with the near vertical R&P input shaft and connecting it to the steering column?

    - What about drivers side exhaust routing with the front driveline? Doesn't look like there will be much room.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    Always wondered if an AWD mustang could be done. Pretty ingenious use of explorer parts. Will be interesting to see how this plays out.

    Maybe you haven't got this far, but have a few questions:

    - Was the explorer a full-time AWD in that it has some kind of differential in the T-case for on-road use?

    - How are you planning to address the steering shaft with the near vertical R&P input shaft and connecting it to the steering column?

    - What about drivers side exhaust routing with the front driveline? Doesn't look like there will be much room.
    It is the Borg Warner 4404 transfercase. Its fully time awd, i think front/rear torque is 30/70 and with spin it locks up to 50/50. I could switch to the BW4406 which can be made manually switchable with some wiring added. I may switch to that one but as it is approximately the same size I'll worry about that after I get it moving.

    Ah the steering shaft! The steering rack end is lower than the steering wheel end, I think a couple of double u joints will take care of it; I think I can shorten the steering wheel's shaft too.

    I think the easiest option really is running a single turbo and route the exhaust on the passenger side. I've seen good results with low(er) priced turbos. I should be able to get the power I want as well as only having to run a single (albeit bit) exhaust pipe to the back.

  22. #22

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    Excellent. Sounds like you've got the worst of it figured out. Look forward to seeing more progress.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Wow. Just wow. jeremyp!


    Your solution is unique in all the world, Jeremy, and its a credit to you.

    My posts on this

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...wd-Fox-Mustang

    show the links to the European FF layout used in the rear drive Sierra/Merkur/Scorpio/Escort RS platform

    The Mazdog AWD 5.0 trans swap right there is actually epic. You made it look so easy.

    Just like you did the pushrod spring damper units.


    Wow x3, dude!


    I'm ex 90's Explorer awd owner.


    I love those machines, Fords best SUV, underrated, and hated, and a cited always of an example of coroprate greet, but it was , for a small fee, a gift to society like the Model T was. Treat 'em with respect, and they are just a delight. Be rough with a torsion bar, live axle, seperate chassis AWD without ESP, and it'll take you to hades.


    Due to the basic use of Mustang hardpoints and the old torsion bar IFS, Ford decided not to 5 speed manual its 5.0 Mountanieers and Explorers. We got RHD M5OD-R2 manual transmissions 4.0's down here like the US did.


    (I am from NZ, so I did the scoping to 5 speed manual 5.0 back in 2011 when I got my XLT 4.0 SOHC 5R55)


    7 months ago, 95scort basically sumarizes what I got in the Serious Explorations/ Ranger Station back in '11.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPcSbZ8u2Ko

    For the auto AWD XLT 5.0 to 5.0 AWD manual 5 speed swap, he used



    1. a M5OD-R2 manual transmission from a 1997-2003 F150 with the 4.2 V6

    It had to be the 4.2Liter V6 engine because it shares the same bell housing (bolt pattern) as the 5.0 V8 in our Foxes.

    2. You have to install an input shaft bearing/sleeve into the engine.

    3. Keep the starter from the 4.2 V6 F150

    4. Keep the alignment dowels from between the F150 and the manual transmission (they literally go into the transmission where a bolt would go and they help keep the transmission aligned.)

    5. You will also need to drill the bolt holes slightly on the manual transmission bell housing (the V8 5.0 ones are too wide).

    6. Buy a flywheel with a 50oz counter-balance because the OHV 5.0's are externally balanced by either the flywheel (on a manual transmission) or a flexplate (on an automatic).

    Due to the V6 having a 28 or other oddball oz unbalance, the 4.2 V6 F150 won't work.

    7. Also, make sure you buy not just a flywheel for a 5.0 V8 F150, make sure you buy a clutch disk AND pressure plate too.

    8. The input shaft sleeve is delicate, and has to be greased right to allow the whole shooting match to regroup.


    9. The the slip yoke from the F150 maets to whatever shorterned drive shaft you have on your Cobra IFS.



    I have had a whole sucession of AWD drive cars due to snow, ice and flood events, cant do my engineering work without them.

    The Ghia Vignale 4x4 Mustang in 1985 was just a rehashed 2.3 SVO with a Fergusan Formula T5 conversion, different from the US Merkur Scorpio "Ford Sierra XR4X4 2.8/2.9 V6 conversion.

    Your solution is unique in all the world, Jeremy, and its a credit to you.

    My posts on this

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...wd-Fox-Mustang

    show the links to the European FF layout used in the rear drive Sierra/Merkur/Scorpio/Escort RS platform.


    I worked on a kit back in 2012, but after seeing that

    Vintage Performance Developments
    http://www.v-performance.com
    in 527 Buckingham Avenue
    Syracuse, New York 13210

    Had used the old ET 78 Mustang gearbox in 5 speed T9 form, I then found out they go up to with 250, 375 flywheel hp and even 300 lb-ft custom 6 speed gearboxes based on the old German made Mustang 2.3 4 speed based gearbox.

    I've also got a raft of Skyline GTR/ Stagea Turbo RS4 and the 260RS based 5 speed manual or the Subaru/Nissan co op Jatco 4 speed auto drive train parts.

    The Nissan went to huge expense to change to a multiple link SALS M12 style T bird IFS, where the stock cars have just MacPherson Strut Nissan IFS.


    For 1986 to 1997 or so, the Ford of Europe FF layout used in the rear drive MacPherson Strut Ford Sierra/Merkur/Scorpio/Escort RS platform.


    So your two steps are quantum leaps

  24. #24

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    Xctasy, I am happy for multiple reasons! I so much appreciate the interest of others in what I am working on. You also gave the answers to the balancing issue I haven't yet gotten around to researching. The transmission I have was pulled out of a 5.0 truck or bronco so it bolted right up (My mockup block is a mid 80's 5.0 and it already had the input shaft bearing).
    The IFS mainly due to the ease of getting so much of the front suspension from the donor car. In the end I did switch to custom uppers, I needed them shorter for packaging as well as a shorter upper would help with camber in corners. What really helped to figure things out was to look at other people who had built awd cars from what once wasn't. Ken Block's awd mustang named the hoonicorn, as well as a guy named Steve Pierce who build an AWD deuce. Lots of build pics for both.



    Currently I've been busy working on the firewall and transmission tunnel. I've got the firewall almost all taken care of, I have to make a small piece around the front drive shaft. I took some time away from that to deal with the portion behind the transmission where I kept cutting my leg on the sharp metal...

  25. #25
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Very Cool Build!

    I had considered trying to build my SVO with AWD, but decided that might not be the right vehicle to cut up and modify. Although I thought the 2.3 Turbo would be able to provide enough power and allow more room to fit all the front drive pieces. Thought that would be an awesome vehicle for the winters here in CO. We don't have to worry about salt on the roads, just Mag Chloride!

    I believe you are still in the early stages of mockup and fitting of parts and pieces, but I did have a question about your bellcrank/pivots . . . Are you planning on mounting the upper pivot that connects to the lower control arm in double shear? I would highly recommend it over what appears to be a single shear mount. This will improve your overall structural integrity and improve the long term durability. Good Luck with the project and keep the updates coming!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

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    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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