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  1. #76

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    Quote Originally Posted by eddo617 View Post
    I get that, just thought you'd take the top part of the tunnel and part of the firewall and blend it into the mustang firewall and floorpan with pieces of scrap metal
    It'd be more trouble than its worth. Used as sheet metal it'd have to have the paint and undercoating removed not to mention any unneeded brackets. Fresh steel was much nicer to work with and a lot less stinky.

  2. #77

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    And I'm back. Bought a new house and didn't realize it'd take so long to get all my junk moved and put away!

    Since starting back on the car I've been focusing on the turbo hotside. I spent some time yesterday evening working on the crossover and adding the wastegate (which i conveniently forgot to snap a pic of).

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    I'm still getting the hang of tig welding. Welds aren't very pretty but they're stuck together for sure. The bellow flex joint is stainless and the rest is mild steel (used 309L filler for that transition). Not pictured is the wastegate added in on the inside of the Y.

  3. #78

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    Jeremy,

    I just found your thread am I am following with great interest. Prior to finding this thread, I had only seen one AWD Fox, which was a supplanted Audi driveline. While that was interesting, I plan to build mine using mainly Ford parts.
    I am in the planning stages to build an AWD setup in my 86 Coupe. I was curious as to what year Explorer you chose for your donor.
    Everything you're doing looks great!

    Brian

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  4. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadrazer1 View Post
    Jeremy,

    I just found your thread am I am following with great interest. Prior to finding this thread, I had only seen one AWD Fox, which was a supplanted Audi driveline. While that was interesting, I plan to build mine using mainly Ford parts.
    I am in the planning stages to build an AWD setup in my 86 Coupe. I was curious as to what year Explorer you chose for your donor.
    Everything you're doing looks great!

    Brian

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Be prepared to chop up the majority of you floorpan. I used 2nd gen explorer(in my case a 1996 donor) as I picked up a running one for about 800 bucks. In the end I really just used the steering rack, front diff, LCA's and transfer case (motor too as i wanted an efi 5.0). The rest was months of fabrication in my garage and i'm still not running yet lol.

    A video was circulating last week of another awd coupe, it is a trailblazer ss swap. Those have got to be an easy swap as the front diff bolts right to the oil pan and should help with clearance issues. you might consider modding a tubular kmember and using say focus st spindles and keeping the car macphereson strut front. Then the issue is the fact you gotta sit the motor right on top of a big ol differential. maybe look for the smallest diff that can handle the power?

  5. #80

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    In other news, I've made some progress since I last posted. The exhaust is ran from front to back, only a WG recirc. is needed and maybe a reroute on the crossover TBD when the accessories are in place.

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    Here's my progress on the accessory bracket I've been working on. I've got room for an AC compressor so it's being planned for. A manual tensioner is in the mail. I think I have room for a belt driven PS pump, otherwise I'm going with an electric one.

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    Got the car rolled out a week or so ago as I was helping my brother paint a car. Exhaust is 3" stainless from the turbo, a combo of pie cuts and mandrel bends all v-banded together. I decided to go ahead and put in glasspack muffler to try and keep it quiet(er).

  6. #81

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    Thats an amazing job your doing fabricating all those parts.

  7. #82
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I flat out love the black Notch. Its got everything sorted the way it should be. Hope things are working well. All I've been seeing is dark Green and Black 79-80 Notches with pumped out wheels and an amazing stance. Again and again and again.
    Mustang Marty, Basin Motorsports, Firebolt and yours. Such tough looking machines with a load of ace Engineering work.


    Hang in there!

  8. #83

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    Cant wait to see this done. I'm no way complaining or judging, and its far too late for this advice. Since you mentioned the ss front end let me throw this out there. The old s10 or better yet, since it has no disconnect, the astro front end. Remember the syclone had over 300hp. And the astro/bravada transfer case. I believe the t case to be much smaller. Also came behind a 4 wheel drive t5 from the s10. I have asked tremec a couple times about switching the stronger guts from a camaro into the 4x4 case. No one had a good answer. But there you go.
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 11-29-2018 at 04:30 PM.

  9. #84
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yes, but eversomuch more so. He's Homer Priced it.




    Jeremy's Stang takes all the lessons of the QuadraDuece

    https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...ld-at-auction/

    and

    the 1932 Ford Roaster Fuller 'Double Down' Hotrod

    http://rxspeed.com/thelab/all-wheel-...oadster-hotrod


    And does it all better,
    with Ford parts,
    and still uses the race style pushrod IFS spring/damper units.

    A Fox Coupe or Hatch becomes a new 3 or 5 window 32 Ford Tudoor.


    The Chevy S-10 ideas, but he takes it, and moves it on another 50%. To use a Shakespearean cliché, in one fell swoop!


    He 's made a new All paw Chicken Coupe'.One in which everything pacakges!

  10. #85

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    That's the exact car I had in my mind. I think I still have the hot rod or car craft magazine that was in. I have plans to use that driveline in my 53 curve window chevy pickip

  11. #86

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yes, but eversomuch more so. He's Homer Priced it.




    Jeremy's Stang takes all the lessons of the QuadraDuece

    https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...ld-at-auction/

    and

    the 1932 Ford Roaster Fuller 'Double Down' Hotrod

    http://rxspeed.com/thelab/all-wheel-...oadster-hotrod


    And does it all better,
    with Ford parts,
    and still uses the race style pushrod IFS spring/damper units.

    A Fox Coupe or Hatch becomes a new 3 or 5 window 32 Ford Tudoor.


    The Chevy S-10 ideas, but he takes it, and moves it on another 50%. To use a Shakespearean cliché, in one fell swoop!


    He 's made a new All paw Chicken Coupe'.One in which everything pacakges!
    Albeit a little slowly haha.

    I've been chipping away at a fuel system as well as taking some time to get on board the cnc game. Hopefully I can knockout a wooden intake mockup in a couple weeks. I did want to stick as much to ford parts as I could. I think I'll end up getting a bw 4406e before I get it all running for the rwd option.

  12. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    Be prepared to chop up the majority of you floorpan. I used 2nd gen explorer(in my case a 1996 donor) as I picked up a running one for about 800 bucks. In the end I really just used the steering rack, front diff, LCA's and transfer case (motor too as i wanted an efi 5.0). The rest was months of fabrication in my garage and i'm still not running yet lol.

    A video was circulating last week of another awd coupe, it is a trailblazer ss swap. Those have got to be an easy swap as the front diff bolts right to the oil pan and should help with clearance issues. you might consider modding a tubular kmember and using say focus st spindles and keeping the car macphereson strut front. Then the issue is the fact you gotta sit the motor right on top of a big ol differential. maybe look for the smallest diff that can handle the power?
    I'm going to use a 2002-2005 Explorer IFS front differential for mine.
    I wanted to ask, did you use the stock front CV axles from your Explorer donor? If so, how was the track width?
    I love how you did your custom K-member, allowing for bolt in placement on the car with the engine/differential already mounted.
    I assume you had to move the engine up and towards the passenger side (versus the stock engine mounting location) to clear the differential? If so, how much do you figure you had to move them?
    Excellent work, my friend! Very motivational!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  13. #88

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    This thing is crazy!! Following.

  14. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by quadrazer1 View Post
    I'm going to use a 2002-2005 Explorer IFS front differential for mine.
    I wanted to ask, did you use the stock front CV axles from your Explorer donor? If so, how was the track width?
    I love how you did your custom K-member, allowing for bolt in placement on the car with the engine/differential already mounted.
    I assume you had to move the engine up and towards the passenger side (versus the stock engine mounting location) to clear the differential? If so, how much do you figure you had to move them?
    Excellent work, my friend! Very motivational!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Track width is wider for sure, I don't remember off the top of my head right now but the 03-04 cobra wheel's i've swapped still fit within the fender (if just barely haha). I'm going to be lengthening the opening in my front fenders for sure. The bit with the k-member became a thing of necessity, the engine is back a couple of inches as well as offset to the passenger side about an inch and a half i think, even if i could swing the motor in from the top I'd be spending more time than lifting the car off of it. I would suggest you look into making use of some newer focus front spindles and keeping a McPherson strut front, you would save a good bit of time in fabrication going that route. you should be able to use the lower arm. Either way is a good bit of fabbing and I am not fully sure how the handling will be (I've taken some educated guesses and made some shameless angle copying from other people's projects).

    Again on the engine, it's both back, to the side and up a couple inches. Right now I'm working out an upper intake that doesn't make me use a cowl hood. I'll either be welding aluminum for the first time or casting aluminum for the first time. We'll see which it is after I mock up something in wood.

  15. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    I would suggest you look into making use of some newer focus front spindles and keeping a McPherson strut front, you would save a good bit of time in fabrication going that route. you should be able to use the lower arm.
    I've been looking into this, specifically. The drawback is with keeping the factory LCA, it kind of forces you to maintain the angle of the factory strut....which lays back and inwards. Most late model front suspensions don't have those kinds of angles, so in keeping the factory LCA, it seems to really limit the options for upper strut choices (as I'm sure you know).
    I believe I may need to use the older Explorer IFS as you did, only to be able to get one with a factory 4.10 gear ratio (to match my current rear gear). I've had no luck in locating the 2002/newer IFS in that ratio, and I wonder if it was even an option for the 2002-2005 Explorers.
    Can't wait to see more of your progress pics! I'm currently working on my 1990 drag Fox (pictured). But definitely looking ahead to my 86 AWD Fox build!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  16. #91

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    @Quadrazer1 I swapped the ring and pinion on the front diff to match the 03-04 cobra rear I've got. That will most likely be your experience too.

  17. #92

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    A wild intake appears!

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    I finally got my lower flange and throttle body flange cnc'd and got to work making the rest of the box. The top has a large panel to get inside to unbolt from the lower. It looks like I'll be redoing my accessory brackets but I can live with that, I'll probably drop down to just an alternator for the time being as I'd rather get this moving first and then worry about AC. MS3X just arrived today and I am excited to build the kit and start wiring. What stands to be done before that is dropping everything out once again, finishing the tunnel, baffling the oil pan and double checking my welds, running fuel lines all before I start bolting it all back together.

  18. #93

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    Incredible build !

  19. #94
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    See posts 16-18 http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...3-6-speed-swap

    re making the CD009 work. Great progress, JP!

  20. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    See posts 16-18 http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...3-6-speed-swap

    re making the CD009 work. Great progress, JP!
    This feels like my best backup plan if the m5od-r2 dies

  21. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyp View Post
    This feels like my best backup plan if the m5od-r2 dies
    The poor m5r2 is most likely going to live a short life behind a turbo 5.0. Not very strong to begin with, very little support, and built for truck duty. Not any way performance oriented, the one in my truck shifts good but only if you’re not in a hurry.


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  22. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by wdanison43103 View Post
    The poor m5r2 is most likely going to live a short life behind a turbo 5.0. Not very strong to begin with, very little support, and built for truck duty. Not any way performance oriented, the one in my truck shifts good but only if you’re not in a hurry.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Good thing they're cheap

  23. #98
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Cool

    Nice work JP.

    Using stock parts its what makes it all fun, especially if they are cheap.

    A few examples.

    Gearboxes:-

    The old Lotus idea of under engineered finite element analysis applies.
    Find the least cost part, use it, and fix it up or re-engineer if it breaks.

    Ford made the T5 out of Borg Warner SR-4 parts, a real light weight gearbox not well thought of.

    Ford persisted with it, and got the volume it needed to get it beefed up to the T4 and T5 design by allowing AMC, Chev and Nissan (it was the 280ZX Turbo gearbox for a few years).

    Buying another companies stuff allows Ford to benfit form Mazda, who are allowed to on sell it, and get the mass production improving the breed.

    That busted ar$3 Borg Warner SR-4 1974 Mustang II and Jeep gearbox now allows 2WD 500 hp strokers to wheel stand and make sub 10 second passes without breakage. Its a tiny 2.95 center split bellhousing ALUMINUM gearbox that shouldn't take the stuff delt to it.

    Front axles:-

    The Fergussan Formula wheel drive used in Sierra's/Scoripio's, the Xtrac Four wheel drive in the Escort Cosworth Turbo's, even with a 50/50 front/rear torque split , requires a much smaller crown wheel. They used a tiny 6-3/4" 1963 Ford Cortina crown wheel to take 650 hp and 450 lb-ft of torque.

    My old Nissan AWD Skyline based system, rear axle 7.875, front axle was, IIRC, 7.25" form a Pathfinder. That will take 1000 hp and 750 lb-ft of a single or dual turbo 3 liter in line engine. The gearbox, auto or manual, just as strong.

    Total Package Tearout specs:-

    The gearbox in even a turbo charged Fox Mustang is under considerably less stress than a 4500 plus weight unloaded SUV or truck. The tear out loads are way down.

    front axle and gearbox strength will most likely be 1.5 times that of whats required.

    I've seen and used the ToyoKogo single case alloy gearboxes, they are truck designs with one piece cases, made for Ford. Internal center hole punch throwout bearings, Ford got the Japanese to build them what the trucks needed at a price Ford Dearborn wanted to pay. The European MT75 2.95 replacement for the 2.77 T9 Sierra/Merkur XR4Ti gearbox was as tough as the ToyoKogoy gearbox, but Ford US used the Japanese gearbox.

    Fords old iron 3.03 TopLoader with Liberty cut gears, stronger again.

    Ford decided to put the excess mid 1970's production capacity to use for making engines, and others then made Fords gearboxes under contract. The days of buying over engineered Ford made nodular iron center press formed 9" axles and TopLoaders that held 500 hp and lb-ft are long gone . Too many Chevy guys were using the parts.

    The T5 gearbox strength is based on the crank on the accelerator. One can't take 320 lb-ft in a 3850 pound Australian 5 Liter Falcon if the driver is unsympathetic. Other guys do indeed drag race them behind 351's and 408 strokers, and with periodic checks and the right set-up, they hold up under 500 passes.

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