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Thread: Mach1 wheels

  1. #51

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Size:  99.8 KB hope this helps here is my setup fox lower control arms, 94-95 spindles 93 cobra rear (redrilled for 5lug ) stock 03- 04 mach 1 wheels and tire setup. 245/45/17 no spacers no issues with clearance. ... pat
    Last edited by hockelly14; 02-21-2016 at 06:53 PM. Reason: spelling

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by hockelly14 View Post
    Name:  DSCN0523.jpg
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Size:  99.8 KB hope this helps here is my setup fox lower control arms, 94-95 spindles 93 cobra rear (redrilled for 5lug ) stock 03- 04 mach 1 wheels and tire setup. 245/45/17 no spacers no issues with clearance. ... pat
    thx, yes it does help. what kmember are are using?

  3. #53

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    Original 83 v8. with stock ford 93 cobra springs struts shocks and sway bars. i initially used 87-93 spindles with svo calipers, needed 1 in spacers to get the look right. .

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I will have to respectfully disagree with your advise on the SN95 LCA. Adding the SN95 spindles to a Fox with the stock Fox LCA immediately causes your camber to become more positive by 1.7 Degrees with the 94/95 units and 1.3 Degrees with the 96-04 units. This is caused by the Fox LCA being shorter and pulling the bottom of the spindle in more than it normally would be with the SN95 LCA. You can correct for this with a set of CC Plates and I highly recommend them, especially the MM units.

    The SN95 LCA add all of these benefits as mentioned here on MM Website: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te..._arm_swap.aspx


    • Increase front track width, which will increase front grip.
    • Reduce understeer because of the increase in front grip.
    • Increase cornering speed because of the increase in front grip.
    • Reduce binding in the suspension because of the inherent lower friction of the 1994-04 ball joints. This improves both handling and ride quality.
    • Will increase the amount of negative camber that can be achieved because the ball joint is moved outboard.




    Another benefit or effect of installing the longer arms is that ride height will be slight lower too. The disadvantage of the longer arms is it will limit the front wheel width generally 8", maybe an 8.5" if you are willing to modify the front fenders for additional clearance.

    Hope that helps!


    Trey


    I saw the exact opposite of what you say I should have. I don't know what my alignment specs were before the conversion but after I was if I remember correctly 2.5 degrees negative and just barely within specs for the chassis without CC plates. If what you're saying is true I should have been almost where I needed to be alignment wise and not wearing the inside of my tires. I wanted a more positive camber so I bought CC plates.


    Now I'm a simple man and if the Strut Mounting point Stays the same and the Point where the Control arm mounts to the K-Member stays the same and your Camber is say 0 degrees and you change only the length of the control arm from the Pivot of the control arm where it mounts to the K-Member and the center of the lower ball joint then you are going to have a more negative Camber reading. How much I don't know exactly because i am talking theoreticals and triangulation. I know there may be a difference where the wheel mounting surface and the center of the ball joint between the Fox and the SN-95 spindle but i don't know what that is and in an effort to keep things simple i wont go there because I don't really have the desire to.

    I only know what I've done and what I've seen first hand. I put cobra 4 wheel disk brakes on my 86 gt and I have an excess of Negative front camber with stock fox LCA's. Is it too much, in my opinion it was but only after I saw the wear on the front tires. They wore like my 93 SHO and it was way too negative but unfix-able from the factory and actually out of spec according to the specs from the alignment shop.


    Additionally I know having worked on friends dirt track race cars that I raced against that had mustangs, that the Tcoupe and the SN-95 front LCA was a way of helping get more negative camber in the right front tire by simply swapping it out with the longer non fox part. The classes that ran at the track (except 4Cyl Modified) had to run stock stamped factory style front and rear lower control arms. So that's what they did. I didn't have to because I ran a Pinto.


    I have read your post like 40 times and I don't see it but I'm not purporting to be the expert. I'm simply telling what I've done and what I've seen and giving my opinion.

    So sorry I think we'll not be seeing eye to eye on this one, but thanks for the help.

    Shag
    Last edited by shagmail; 02-22-2016 at 04:27 PM.

  5. #55

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    I received my cobra front calipers a few days ago. I opened the boxes today and one is a raw aluminum the other has a coating on it and is a PBR. I assume they are the same. Just figured I better ask than assume tho.
    Last edited by jazdill; 02-27-2016 at 12:46 PM.

  6. #56
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shagmail View Post
    I saw the exact opposite of what you say I should have. I don't know what my alignment specs were before the conversion but after I was if I remember correctly 2.5 degrees negative and just barely within specs for the chassis without CC plates. If what you're saying is true I should have been almost where I needed to be alignment wise and not wearing the inside of my tires. I wanted a more positive camber so I bought CC plates.


    Now I'm a simple man and if the Strut Mounting point Stays the same and the Point where the Control arm mounts to the K-Member stays the same and your Camber is say 0 degrees and you change only the length of the control arm from the Pivot of the control arm where it mounts to the K-Member and the center of the lower ball joint then you are going to have a more negative Camber reading. How much I don't know exactly because i am talking theoreticals and triangulation. I know there may be a difference where the wheel mounting surface and the center of the ball joint between the Fox and the SN-95 spindle but i don't know what that is and in an effort to keep things simple i wont go there because I don't really have the desire to.

    I only know what I've done and what I've seen first hand. I put cobra 4 wheel disk brakes on my 86 gt and I have an excess of Negative front camber with stock fox LCA's. Is it too much, in my opinion it was but only after I saw the wear on the front tires. They wore like my 93 SHO and it was way too negative but unfix-able from the factory and actually out of spec according to the specs from the alignment shop.


    Additionally I know having worked on friends dirt track race cars that I raced against that had mustangs, that the Tcoupe and the SN-95 front LCA was a way of helping get more negative camber in the right front tire by simply swapping it out with the longer non fox part. The classes that ran at the track (except 4Cyl Modified) had to run stock stamped factory style front and rear lower control arms. So that's what they did. I didn't have to because I ran a Pinto.


    I have read your post like 40 times and I don't see it but I'm not purporting to be the expert. I'm simply telling what I've done and what I've seen and giving my opinion.

    So sorry I think we'll not be seeing eye to eye on this one, but thanks for the help.

    Shag
    I think where we are off is that I was arguing that just adding the SN95 spindles causes the camber to go more positive than the original setup and the addition of the SN95 longer control arms helps to correct that.

    You are arguing against going with the longer SN95 control arms because of them causing your camber to go negative. I honestly have never installed the longer SN95 control arms without the SN95 spindles so I can't comment on that alone. I probably missed that on the original post.

    Other than that I think we are in agreement overall, but it's been a long day for me and I have already started the libations so I could be wrong!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #57
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazdill View Post
    I received my cobra front calipers a few days ago. I opened the boxes today and one is a raw aluminum the other has a coating on it and is a PBR. I assume they are the same. Just figured I better ask than assume tho.

    They probably are, but you can always measure the pistons to be sure they are the same calipers.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #58

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    A little different perspective since the wheel arches are different - I am running Mach 1 wheels on my Fairmont with 245/45-17 tires all around. I used sn95 spindles up front with 87-93 control arms and a 94 rear end. My car is lowered with Motorsport B Springs.



    I do not have any issues with rubbing front or rear. I am running Maximum Motorsport CC plates up front and I did roll the fenders in the rear just because I was worried about sideways motion on turns. I have plenty of room now that I rolled the fenders not sure how easy it is to see in this photo.



    I do have MM adjustable rear lower control arms waiting to go in once the weather warms up - hoping this helps with some wheel hop issues and also will allow me to raise the rear slightly to even out the rake.

  9. #59

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    Fastmont, that looks awesome!! I want to put 9's in the back.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  10. #60

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    Fairmont looks killer with the Mach's!!!!!!

    I finally had some time to work on my 86'. So far I have the cobra rear bolted in, the spindles and brakes mounted up front. I have the wheels on and down on all fours. Still lots of work left though. Very happy with the look and wheel placement seems to be great in the wheel wells. Was able to find the correct spindles and front cobra brake assembly on Craigslist, even landed some of the calipers that say cobra on them.

    Now on for all the time consuming stuff brake lines, EB cable, master cylinder. going to go ahead and replace struts, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends.
    Thinking about installing a coil over set up on front. I have an extra strange set up from the race car. I also have a complete eibach spring and sway bar kit I may use.

  11. #61

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    work looks to be finally slowing down enough that will get to finish my Mach1/Cobra brakes upgrade. I think I have decided to purchase kit MMBK7P http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...ear-P1438.aspx for the rear. From what I understand I will need to move my main feed line since my car is originally a 4cyl 86'. I would assume that's as simple as running a new line from proportioning valve up front to the rear distribution block. Does anyone know of a pre bent available?

    For the front MMBK8F http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...ont-P1341.aspx I assume from reading these thread directly into calipers and the stock fitting present on my 86' ? I also believe I will need a pair of these brackets https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9998916K/mu...kit-front-8704.

    Have not decided which route I will be going with master cylinder and proportioning valve yet. Was thinking I would to just prefer to eliminate stock valve and install adj. one for cleaner look. Will more than likely install a line lock at this time also just incase down the road I decide to make a pass or two. I am thinking I will use 94-95 cobra master cylinder http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...ang-P1221.aspx..... wish I understood why there is three diff cobra ones?

    As far as emergency brake cables go I would assume this kit even though LMR states fits 87-92 would work for my 86'? https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2635D-K/mus...c-brakes-87-92

    I will also be replacing struts and shocks at this time along with rebuilding front end suspension parts. I refuse to use junk Chinese parts from such places as Autozone. What is a good brand to use for ball joints, lower control arm bushings, outer tie rods ect.? I have used many diff brands of struts over the years koni, kyb and Tokico to name a few. I have a set of Strange SA 10way on my drag car. http://www.strangeengineering.net/mu...e-drag-shocks/ Has anyone used them on a street car? They seem to be way more affordable than other adjustable struts for our mustangs.

    Still debating on using small diameter coil over setups front and rear. Leaning towards staying with stock style, but do like the ease adjustability.
    Last edited by jazdill; 08-07-2016 at 05:06 PM.

  12. #62
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you wan to buy a pre bent line for the rear, this is what you need. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-MU1021B/mus...ate-line-87-93

    That is actually the line from the prop valve to the union on the passenger side hood hinge and then the line from the union back to the body mounted bracket for the rear flex line. You will also need the correct body mounted bracket as the way the hard line and flex line attach are different than your current piece. You don't really need the line from the prop valve to the union by the hood hinge, but I don't know if you can order just the single line either.

    I thought the MM front SS hose kit required an adapter for the 86 4 cyl cars as the passenger side brake line was different, but I don't see that on MM site, so I may be mistaken. You can buy the brackets if you want, although it's a simple modification to make your originals work if you want to save the money.

    I just had the M/C and Booster discussion with Jack Hidley from MM and on my 82 GT which will have the 03/04 Cobra brakes on all 4 corners, I am going with the stock 86-93 V8 booster and the 94/95 Cobra M/C. I have the same brakes on my PC, but I am running the 93 Cobra booster and M/C and the brake pedal feel is very firm with very little pedal modulation. The brakes work great, but I am looking for a bit more pedal feel and travel to make it easier to modulate the brakes when needed.

    As for prop valve, etc. I remove the stock unit completely and re-plumb the lines using a T union for the front lines and I install the adjustable prop valve under the M/C where the original valve was located. Looks very clean and makes adjustments easy IMHO.

    As for the rear parking brake cables, you don't need that kit as it includes the equalizer that is not used with the 79-86 E brake handle. Just buy two cables like this and you will be fine. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2635D/1987-...ar-Disc-Brakes That will also save you a little bit of money on unneeded parts.

    Balljoints are a PITA because in my experience only the true Ford units are any good these days. Unfortunately the Motorcraft units are not the same, so don't try that route. Since you are going SN95 use the SN95 joints and MM has the best price I have found on original Ford ball joints.

    Bushings will depend on what you want to do. Good replacement rubber bushings are fine, just go with a name brand such as MOOG, TRW, Raybestos, etc. If you want to improve the handling and performance than Prothane or Energy Suspension poly front bushings are the way to go. I recommend the full bushing with shells as the bushing only is a PITA IMHO.

    KYB struts for a Mustang are CRAP IMHO! Well at least the standard units. The AGX versions are supposed to be better, but I have no experience and honestly have no desire to test them either. Bilstein are great for handling and a firm ride, Koni's are great if they are adjustable as you can soften the ride and then crank them up for handling if you wish, Tokico are good all around struts that improve handling without sacrificing ride quality. I am not a drag racer, so I can't comment on the Strange setup.

    If you are considering going Coil Over, then I highly recommend you read MM website in regards to matching your spring rates to your struts and also looking at their C/O kits. There are different kits depending on your struts since different manufacturers use different diameter housings. Most aftermarket (UPR ) make one kit that fits all, but fits none of them well. This can cause movement of the actual C/O threaded sleeve on the strut which can lead to damage and noise when driving. MM also doesn't recommend C/O conversions for the Tokico Premium (Blue) struts or any of the Tokico rear shocks because the housings are not strong enough to handle the additional loads transmitted by the C/O conversion.

    Oh! I wanted to also mention that if you are considering going C/O in the rear that can allow you to save some money on rear control arms (at least the MM units) as you can go with a standard (non adjustable) rear arm and delete the spring mount if you want to clean things up. Otherwise I highly recommend the adjustable units. I have both the Extreme and the Heavy Duty units on two of my Foxes. Good Luck!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 08-07-2016 at 07:24 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #63

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    thx Trey, you are always very helpful!!!! I will send an email to Jack Hidley about the passenger side brake line question. I also was thinking I had read same as you sometime back. I do agree about Tokico blue struts being a very good compromise. The only reasons I ask about the Strange struts are the fact the are a quality piece for a lot cheaper. I have just never drove any on the street. My guess is with 10 adjustments they could be made to perform great. My intended purpose for this car is a driver with a trip every once in a while to NeOkla SCCA coarse, maybe a trip down the drag strip but for the most part just some good ol' spirited street driving. In short just a well rounded street car.

  14. #64
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    No problem.

    My generally advice to most is to set the car up for what it does the majority of the time. If the car spends 90% of it's life on the street and just 10% on a road course or drag strip, then IMHO you are better setting the car up for the street and then either adjust or just accept the limitations when at the track. I am a huge road course fan and love a great handling car, but I don't necessarily want to drive that every day or every time I take me car out for a cruise. If the car is a dedicated track car that is one thing, but for me right now my cars generally only see street duty, so that is what I set them up for. Yes, I lean more towards a good handling car, but not completely at the expense of ride quality.

    My issue with the Strange Struts is that they are a strip strut that can live on the street, but they are primarily designed for the track. The same is true for a set of road racing struts. Yes, they can be driven on the street, but they are designed for optimum performance at the track and that often requires sacrifices to ride quality that you can tolerate when racing at full speed, but might be a bit much to take on a daily basis.

    I would recommend discussing your goals with Jack and get his input. It sounds like a set of Koni struts and shocks (adjustable) might be the best option for your desires. Allows you to tune the suspension for the street and then make some adjustments for either track. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #65

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    Trey I was looking at struts on LMR site and noticed the Bilsteins https://lmr.com/item/BIL-35041382/bi...8704-35-041382 show 87-04. I was always told the 94-up were longer. Just wondering if you knew why they are the only brand that covers 87-04 instead of 87-93 and 94-04 like the others.

  16. #66
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Bilstein uses the same strut for the 87-04 cars. The do have two different rear shocks, the 87-93 and the 94-04.

    There are benefits to using the SN95 rear shocks on a Fox. Straight from MM website:

    Choosing Bilsteins for your 1979-93 Fox chassis Mustang? We recommend the more optimal design of the shocks for the 1994-04 Mustang. Advantages to using SN95 solid axle Bilstein shocks instead of Fox chassis shocks:

    • Increase in bump travel
    • Reduction of excessive droop travel
    • Cellular foam external bump stops
    • Suitable for coil-over conversion

    When installing SN95 shocks on a Fox chassis Mustang, remove the original rubber bump stops from the frame rails. 1994-04 rear shock Bilstein part numbers

    • BE5-6418-H0
    • GBE5-6418-H0

    Hope that answers your question.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #67

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    glad to hear that. I believe a have a set of factory bilstein struts from a 03' cobra in my garage!!!

  18. #68
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazdill View Post
    glad to hear that. I believe a have a set of factory bilstein struts from a 03' cobra in my garage!!!
    Those will work just fine. I have run that type on a couple of Foxes myself. In fact that is what is on my 79 PC right now.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #69

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    Name:  _DSC4589.jpg
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    Here's mine. Just got her on the road finally! I have a set of Bullitts I swap with just to mix things up, But I've always loved the Mach's.
    The fronts are Ford Racing 17x8's with 245/45x17's. The rears are AFS 17x9's with 275/40x17's.
    '70 Mach I, Sold and Regret Every Second of it!!!
    '78 King Cobra, Sold
    '84-1/2 GT350 Vert. (My Latest Toy)

  20. #70

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    -nice vert and looks different with the wheels....
    '87 Turbo Coupe - 660 mile original
    '86 Turbo Coupe - 74k mile stripper

  21. #71

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    Trey, I was doing a search learning about 03 04 Mach1 struts. I noticed you run them on your 82' I believe it said. Was thinking they maybe a better option than the Bilsteins for my intended purpose. What is your opinion?

  22. #72

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    Trey, I was doing a search learning about 03 04 Mach1 struts. I noticed you run them on your 82' I believe it said. Was thinking they maybe a better option than the Bilsteins for my intended purpose. What is your opinion?

  23. #73

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    WOW!!!! 8/16/2016 was my last post while doing my cobra brake swap/ Mach1 wheel install that is 15 months!!! lol time to finish it up I do miss driving it. Been busy working on my 86' drag car but just purchased a 90' back halved car about a month ago. Been working on 90' as much as possible just redoing some things I do not like and getting it ready for SBC engine and mid plates. I have gave my 86' drag car project to my 15yr old son. Hopefully it will keep him and his friends busy. Taking a few weeks vacation from Christmas till January 8th and I WILL have my 86' back on the road again....and I need the room in shop for race cars. I had to reread this thread just to remember what i had left to do on the cobra conversion. One good afternoon and I could be finished with it. Crazy how the importance of one project can change to another in a blink of an eye.

  24. #74

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    Got to drive my 86' !!! I still have some brake work to do on the rear and address the lack of n ebrake. Felt great to drive it to the car wash with the mach1 wheels rolling with the cobra brakes though. My biggest concern was the front end alignment. I just done a poor boy string job to get it going before a trip to the alignment shop. My concern is that i had to shove the adj caster/camber plates i installed all the way towards the engine to get the best results using the string method. Had same results on both driver and passenger side. Is this a result of using the fox lowers? I would guess yes since the sn95 lowers are wider. Without reading back through the thread I believe i recall both Jack and Trey urging me to go with the sn95 lowers.

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