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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Got to some much-needed cleaning of the console before it went back in, and the front seats and door panels.









    The door panels aren't great, with some moisture distortion of the bottoms, but they cleaned up okay for now. The grime on the door pulls plastic is tougher, and I'll have to revisit them...

    Mike -

    I took mine off and used some Scrubbing Bubbles w/Bleach spray bathroom cleaner on them. It clings a bit, so it keeps cleaning even after you wipe them down. Then I used clear water and a sponge to get any remaining cleaner off. After reinstalling, I used one vinyl protectant to finish them off.



    Your bucket seats look great...I had to reupholster mine because the seat bottoms had cracked where the stitching is.

    Keep up the good work!
    Last edited by Gemini1999; 11-25-2015 at 11:50 PM.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
    1984 Mustang Turbo GT Convertible

  2. #27

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    I made the TPS adjustable by slotting the two screw holes with the appropriate size drill bit. If you're going to do this, it's only plastic, so go easy. After it's back on the throttle body, with the key in the Run position, you loosen the screws a bit, rotate the TPS while you watch the voltage on your digital multi-meter (negative to battery negative, positive to the green wire with a pin poked into it) and get the setting you want or what it's supposed to be, then tighten the screws. Rotating the throttle open slowly then to WOT and watching the voltage for a smooth transition with no flat spots or drop-outs to ~4.5 volts indicates the TPS is working right. I set mine to 1.0 volt at idle.

    The ability to check/adjust the TPS is one reason I removed and discarded the steel pipe section of the 3/4" hose to the heater core, which was bolted down to the intake and ran right in the way of being able to get at the TPS.


    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:16 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini1999 View Post
    Mike -

    I took mine off and used some Scrubbing Bubbles w/Bleach spray bathroom cleaner on them. It clings a bit, so it keeps cleaning even after you wipe them down. Then I used clear water and a sponge to get any remaining cleaner off. After reinstalling, I used one vinyl protectant to finish them off.



    Your bucket seats look great...I had to reupholster mine because the seat bottoms had cracked where the stitching is.

    Keep up the good work!
    Wow! Those look awesome, Bryan! Thanks for the tip! ... oh yes, I'm mysteriously missing the map pockets...

    I'm glad these seats cleaned up, and are in good shape. I just used some window cleaner and a slightly stiff brush to get into the grain, and paper towels.

    Thanks, will do!
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  4. #29

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    Conversely to seemingly everyone else, mine's coming out of storage, hopefully today. I needed storage, for more additional dollars than I care to talk about, in order to have a place to be able to do the work on it, due to some dictatorial "condo rules" applied to everyone based on some past bad apples... 'nuff said. All the bigger stuff required is done, so it's time to bring it home and get safety-checked sometime hopefully next week, and onto the road. I know, crazy, right, a convertible onto the road for winter? It's my only option right now, and I'll get it oiled well so the road salt doesn't eat it. Nothing else to report/update right now. But, to be continued...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  5. #30

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    Cleared out storage unit. Got car home yesterday.

    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:18 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  6. #31

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    Re-attached heater box end of "Cool-Warm" cable and found/fixed/replaced missing "A/C-Floor-Vent-Defrost" heater control cable. I had to rob a couple feet of, and twist some loops into the solid cable core from an old Holley manual choke control cable I have to fix the one. Nice to be able to move the heater controls and things actually happen, lol


    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:19 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  7. #32

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    A bit of an update...

    So, the car went through a "safety inspection" a few days ago. General overall flying colors was the result, but "one issue".
    The high beam head lights slope downward to the car's center a degree or two. This thing got a bit of a punch in the nose (driver's side front as far as I can tell by a tear in the bumper cover) at some point, and there are cosmetic (bondo on hood) repairs of varying quality regarding it.
    Within the wording of the checklist of the Ontario (Canada) of things that are checked for that will cause a Fail, says, "any headlamp is aligned incorrectly", which I would like to interpret as the important things, in general and IMHO, as they are solidly attached and not falling out, they work, and they are aimed.
    Not the case in this case...

    Here's the issue, the inner high beam head lights (please ignore the dirt, and the hood's not latched):



    Appears as though there's been a bit of a central downward bash to the inner panel... I did have to adjust the hood latch and bumpers for proper closing...

    Without any intent of bad-mouthing, I feel this is splitting hairs a bit. The car required a tow there, I wasn't charged anything for the time being, and I was loaned a dealer plate to drive it home. I'm to get those (and he didn't like the engine belt, which is no sweat, I didn't think the old belt was dicked but intended to get a new one shortly anyways) fixed and then I'll have a signed "safety".

    I took those head lights out yesterday, and 3 of the white plastic spacer tabs that the steel buckets sit against were broken/missing... but worse than that is that the fiberglass header panel that's behind and houses the head lights is in pretty bad shape, with distortion and cracks here and there, obviously not replaced with a new one when whatever happened to the front end was "repaired".

    I made and attached some plastic pieces for the missing/broken white spacer seat parts, but those head lights are still angling downward. I'm not in the position and don't have the funds to be replacing that whole inner panel right now, so I'm thinking I'll just have to prop them up physically with further pieces of plastic or something, so that they are "aligned" correctly... and I'm hoping a photograph, and not another tow job back to the place, will get the darn safety paper into my hands, lol

    This situation kinda is what it is, and I have to deal with it however I have to deal with it, but any input is appreciated.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:20 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  8. #33

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    Man that's crazy! I could see an issue if the low beams were jacked up but the high beams? I'm glad I don't have to fool with emissions or general safety checks like that.

    Is the plastic/fiberglass headlight header panel broken where the headlight buckets are causing the high beams to angle towards the grille? I would check that out as you might be able to get the panel stitched back together and loosen some of the tension on it to allow it to flex back into a closer to normal position.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Man that's crazy! I could see an issue if the low beams were jacked up but the high beams? I'm glad I don't have to fool with emissions or general safety checks like that.

    Is the plastic/fiberglass headlight header panel broken where the headlight buckets are causing the high beams to angle towards the grille? I would check that out as you might be able to get the panel stitched back together and loosen some of the tension on it to allow it to flex back into a closer to normal position.
    Oh, I specifically looked for older cars and went for this 1986 to avoid the "drive clean" cash grab emissions testing nonsense here! 1988 and older are exempt. The safety check isn't a bad idea, because I think we all know there's all sorts of not-so-responsible people out there, lol

    There's some cracking in the areas. mostly driver's side, but nothing visually terrible. The position of the whole thing is what's holding them downward. That's a great point about it's attaching hardware. I'll see if I can loosen and re-position it. Thank you
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  10. #35

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    I'm trying to remember off hand how all of it attaches to the car. If I'm not mistaken, the whole assembly is held onto the front by 4 bolts or so that go in the fenders and 2 metal tabs that bolt up to the front of the radiator support on the top of the nose. You might be able to loosen/modify the brackets on the radiator support to allow you to pull the grille/center area upwards to take some of the bow out of it. That might help your twisted high beams a little. If the headlight panel is broken or the metal buckets that the headlights sit in are broken then you may have to get creative with some springs, bushings or bailing wire to get them in a position to pass safety until you can afford to get a good panel.

    Just a few ideas that come to mind.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Personally if the header panel is fubar'd, I'd just look for a good / used one. It's quite a bit of labor to remove the bumper cover from the car and swap the header panel, but then at least you know that the inner structure is correct and solid.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    I'm trying to remember off hand how all of it attaches to the car. If I'm not mistaken, the whole assembly is held onto the front by 4 bolts or so that go in the fenders and 2 metal tabs that bolt up to the front of the radiator support on the top of the nose. You might be able to loosen/modify the brackets on the radiator support to allow you to pull the grille/center area upwards to take some of the bow out of it. That might help your twisted high beams a little. If the headlight panel is broken or the metal buckets that the headlights sit in are broken then you may have to get creative with some springs, bushings or bailing wire to get them in a position to pass safety until you can afford to get a good panel.

    Just a few ideas that come to mind.
    That all sounds about right. Thank you. I loosened the 2 metal tabs, and a third that attaches to the hood latch, and that would move up a bit. Problem is, the center of the inner header panel is attached (with rivets, of course, grrrr) to a steel strip that's either part of or attached to the inner actual bumper... and it's flippin' solid, jacking there just raised the car, lol... plus, any raising at all of the bumper cover causes the hood to not close, and if you raise the hood latch it just comes up off the hood bumpers then, which are right where they need to be to match the fender tops.

    I was able to wedge the steel head light buckets' lower inner and upper outer corner areas, and they look damn straight to me now.


    At this distance/camera angle, they still seem a wee bit cock-eyed, but it's the bumper cover holes for the lights that are what's drooping. What's very weird about this is that the whole bumper cover itself doesn't look off in the middle at all. If anything, it could use to be lowered in the center, as per my hood adjusting experience above.




    Up close, as close to parallel to the low beams as damn is to swearing.






    Re-aimed. Lookin' good to me, for now.

    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:23 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    Personally if the header panel is fubar'd, I'd just look for a good / used one. It's quite a bit of labor to remove the bumper cover from the car and swap the header panel, but then at least you know that the inner structure is correct and solid.
    That's the long term plan, thank you. Truthfully I think I'll be seeking something '80-'84 (including hood... I had the thought a while ago that a Capri (front end anyways) convertible could be something kinda cool, lol) instead of these very cramped and limiting '85-'86 aero-ish noses. I like a removable grill and head light surrounds much better.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-03-2015 at 05:10 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  14. #39

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    Got and installed a new 69-1/2" belt. When did a short serpentine become 50 bucks? Man, I swear somebody somewhere is doing their utmost to kill off the do-it-yourself-er...

    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-18-2017 at 07:25 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  15. #40
    FEP Member 9D83's Avatar
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    Looks good! I like that interior. I agree the lights are a bit of a questionable call. I'm thinking maybe the mechanic never certified anything with sealed beams? The belt I don't get at all. Did not think that was a safety item..

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9D83 View Post
    Looks good! I like that interior. I agree the lights are a bit of a questionable call. I'm thinking maybe the mechanic never certified anything with sealed beams? The belt I don't get at all. Did not think that was a safety item..
    Thank you, I'm glad you do! I'm liking it, and will clean it up better soon. Yes, but who's to argue with the man with the power to say Yes or No in order for you to proceed, right? lol
    No sealed beams? Yes, today, maybe not. I don't disagree they had a funny inward rotation of sorts, but function is what I think counts most in the real world. Anyway.
    Yes, the engine itself really is irrelevant, and the mention of the engine belt having teeth cracks was surprising, but I think it was more of a friendly suggestion that it should be replaced soon. I was already intending to do that. That old but okay belt happened to be something laying around in the basement, changed out of a '96 Oldsmobile Cutlass years ago, and happened to fit exactly with my crank, water pump, power steering, and relocated belt-adjusting alternator. I looked all the belt crap up, lol... the two are the same serpentine design, with 6-ribs, 13/16" width, and 40-degree side tapers.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-03-2015 at 06:16 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  17. #42

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    Lights look much straighter Mike and hopefully will let you pass the safety inspection.

    On the other hand, I do believe you have bigger issues than the headlight panel. Looking at your latest pictures, the first thing that stood out instantly to me is the significant bow at the center/top areas between each eye on both sides. While looking at it, it might just be the fact the center could be pushed down which pronounces it. That got me looking closer at your headlight close up head light pictures and what I see there is significant damage to the top radiator support. If you look, the radiator support brackets are heading downhill pretty good. If you look at the drivers side photo, you can see a major bend right above the high beam in the support.

    In order to get everything sitting like it is supposed to, major work on or replacing the radiator support will probably be the only way. Hopefully there is no further damage to the other connecting parts of the framework. I'm curious how they got the hood to fit so good and follow the contours as it does.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Lights look much straighter Mike and hopefully will let you pass the safety inspection.

    On the other hand, I do believe you have bigger issues than the headlight panel. Looking at your latest pictures, the first thing that stood out instantly to me is the significant bow at the center/top areas between each eye on both sides. While looking at it, it might just be the fact the center could be pushed down which pronounces it. That got me looking closer at your headlight close up head light pictures and what I see there is significant damage to the top radiator support. If you look, the radiator support brackets are heading downhill pretty good. If you look at the drivers side photo, you can see a major bend right above the high beam in the support.

    In order to get everything sitting like it is supposed to, major work on or replacing the radiator support will probably be the only way. Hopefully there is no further damage to the other connecting parts of the framework. I'm curious how they got the hood to fit so good and follow the contours as it does.
    Thanks, Brock. He's agreed to view photos I took so I can bypass having to pay for another tow. We'll see. The lights are straightened, and all else is safe and ready to roll, which I made sure of and knew before taking it for a safety. It's taken me a good while to ensure the car was ready, on a shoestring budget. I can't afford surprises, lol

    You're absolutely right. I noticed and suspect that too. It's as if it got pinched hard, side to side, like hit by something while against something else on the other side, causing this central downward bowing. There is significant height differences to where those two tabs to rad cradle are fastened. The driver's side being as far up as it's slot will allow. It took considerably more time and effort than usual to align and adjust the hood for fit and closure. Thank you for noticing, lol. I first knew something was up when I removed the trashed hood insulation and hood bracing on driver's side had downward buckling, then saw and realized bondo on the leading edge and backward at that corner of the hood, and the rad cradle weirdness and latch leaning forward not really allowing the hood to close well or align right. So yes, I want to fully address the whole front end, rad cradle forward, in the near future for sure.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-04-2015 at 08:45 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    It's taken me a good while to ensure the car was ready, on a shoestring budget. I can't afford surprises, lol

    I first knew something was up when I removed the trashed hood insulation and hood bracing on driver's side had downward buckling, then saw and realized bondo on the leading edge and backward at that corner of the hood.
    Understand that completely bud.....unexpected surprises suck! I'm hoping I don't run into any more surprises when I start working on my GT this winter. It's amazing how fast a budget can get out of hand working on these cars.

    Well the bondo clarification answered my question on the hood LOL. I was kinda wondering about that.

    All things aside though, this is one sweet looking ride. Love the interior colors in it!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Understand that completely bud.....unexpected surprises suck! I'm hoping I don't run into any more surprises when I start working on my GT this winter. It's amazing how fast a budget can get out of hand working on these cars.

    Well the bondo clarification answered my question on the hood LOL. I was kinda wondering about that.

    All things aside though, this is one sweet looking ride. Love the interior colors in it!
    I hope you don't run into surprises either. Some can hide pretty good, so digging is necessary! I'm kinda beside myself at this stage, but glad I'm still at under $3K for this car, including it's purchase price, all parts and this'n'that, having to rent a storage unit for four months to work on it, and all associated "on the road" costs. My time, that's another story, lol

    Yes, the driver's side front corner of the hood is doctored with bondo pretty good, minus the crack in it, lol

    Thanks very much! The only small regret (the front end stuff doesn't scare me at all) I'm having is taking on one with CFI, and the 3.8 for that matter, but the engine is healthy. I've covered all the bases I'm able to, with fuel pressure and TPS and verifying all sensors are okay, except the MAP sensor, which I priced the other day at 90 bucks... I am not willing (or able) to be replacing stuff like that, just to be going V8 and carb and Duraspark later. For now or soon, I'm wanting to remove the CFI and EEC questions, because that's all that's holding it back from running well. I was able to make my '83 Cougar with the same engine, but with a two barrel and Duraspark, run very well and use very little gas.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-05-2015 at 01:31 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  21. #46

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    I'm guessing the header panel is bowing down in the center? Looks like the outside edges are fine. I wonder if it was fiberglassed back together incorrectly. Could even be the bumper shocks were bent down.

    If you can access behind the panel ontop of the bumper, I'd try shimming between the bumper and bumper cover. Maybe pickup a few paint sticks and bust em every 2-3" and try shimming the cover up that way in the center.

    Map sensors are pretty generic. My 86 302 started running pretty rough, almost like when you have a choke full on after the engine is warmed up. I got a map sensor code, so I figured I'd try the one off my dad's 91 e-250 7.5 before I spent $35 at orileys for a new one, and it ran perfectly.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  22. #47
    FEP Supporter
    Dadsccat's Avatar
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    ,
    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Thanks, Brock. He's agreed to view photos I took so I can bypass having to pay for another tow. We'll see. The lights are straightened, and all else is safe and ready to roll, which I made sure of and knew before taking it for a safety. It's taken me a good while to ensure the car was ready, on a shoestring budget. I can't afford surprises, lol

    You're absolutely right. I noticed and suspect that too. It's as if it got pinched hard, side to side, like hit by something while against something else on the other side, causing this central downward bowing. There is significant height differences to where those two tabs to rad cradle are fastened. The driver's side being as far up as it's slot will allow. It took considerably more time and effort than usual to align and adjust the hood for fit and closure. Thank you for noticing, lol. I first knew something was up when I removed the trashed hood insulation and hood bracing on driver's side had downward buckling, then saw and realized bondo on the leading edge and backward at that corner of the hood, and the rad cradle weirdness and latch leaning forward not really allowing the hood to close well or align right. So yes, I want to fully address the whole front end, rad cradle forward, in the near future for sure.
    Hey Mike,

    When you show him photos, also take a pic of the headlights hitting a wall or garage door showing how the light hits. If it looks good on the wall he may be more inclined to pass it.
    Shawn


    Currently in the stable:
    83 Capri RS Crimson Cat
    90 7 UP Mustang
    83 Porsche 928S
    78 Lincoln Mark V
    69 Thunderbird Landau
    89 Eddie Bauer Bronco
    65 Cadillac Calais 4DR Hardtop

  23. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I'm guessing the header panel is bowing down in the center? Looks like the outside edges are fine. I wonder if it was fiberglassed back together incorrectly. Could even be the bumper shocks were bent down.

    If you can access behind the panel ontop of the bumper, I'd try shimming between the bumper and bumper cover. Maybe pickup a few paint sticks and bust em every 2-3" and try shimming the cover up that way in the center.

    Map sensors are pretty generic. My 86 302 started running pretty rough, almost like when you have a choke full on after the engine is warmed up. I got a map sensor code, so I figured I'd try the one off my dad's 91 e-250 7.5 before I spent $35 at orileys for a new one, and it ran perfectly.
    Yes. The fiberglass header is all intact. and heading downhill to the center, but with just some small cracks near the high beams. It's the rad support itself that took some kind of hit downward, and yes, possibly the bumper shock brackets as well, that somehow got shoved down.

    Thanks for the tips. This car is very noticeably hesitant and sluggish with applications of the gas pedal right now, and over the course of four months while working on the car, with mostly some idling here and there, driving it nowhere, it surprisingly drank up a quarter tank of gas, with no great noticeable signs of that like black smoke or inside the tail pipe, or fouled plugs. That fact's disturbing, and the way it's running. I'm going to put the new spark plugs in it that I got, but I don't think that's what's going on the way it runs. I'd be willing to try an inexpensive used MAP sensor. I'll try that, thanks again.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  24. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dadsccat View Post
    ,

    Hey Mike,

    When you show him photos, also take a pic of the headlights hitting a wall or garage door showing how the light hits. If it looks good on the wall he may be more inclined to pass it.
    Hey Shawn,

    Yes, that would have been another good photo. He was satisfied with the photos you see above, so we are rolling.
    Took it for a short spin yesterday. Runs and drives okay. I'll put the new spark plugs in it I got, and check for codes again, but as a last resort to allowing EEC and CFI to remain for now, I think I have to try another MAP sensor. It's very sluggish upon acceleration. All of fuel and ignition and other sensors verified good otherwise.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  25. #50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Lights look much straighter Mike and hopefully will let you pass the safety inspection.

    On the other hand, I do believe you have bigger issues than the headlight panel. Looking at your latest pictures, the first thing that stood out instantly to me is the significant bow at the center/top areas between each eye on both sides. While looking at it, it might just be the fact the center could be pushed down which pronounces it. That got me looking closer at your headlight close up head light pictures and what I see there is significant damage to the top radiator support. If you look, the radiator support brackets are heading downhill pretty good. If you look at the drivers side photo, you can see a major bend right above the high beam in the support.

    In order to get everything sitting like it is supposed to, major work on or replacing the radiator support will probably be the only way. Hopefully there is no further damage to the other connecting parts of the framework. I'm curious how they got the hood to fit so good and follow the contours as it does.
    Another brief note on this, Brock. I worked in a body shop and a dealership for 3-4 years apprenticing, and I think I'd like to meet the magician that was obviously able to also V the hood downward (causing the incredibly fussy latch and bumper adjustments to appear right and close), and how it was done, in order to compensate for, and instead of straightening the rad support, lol
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

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