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  1. #326

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    Awesome news, Mike. Way to go.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  2. #327

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    Thanks Thomas.

    Took 'er for a longer drive today. Rolling along easy about 30mph, grabbed 1st gear and put the hammer down about half way... I was quickly reminded what some real good "go baby go" is all about, lol! ... lovin' it... crispy instant, nearly breaking loose, nose-up and haul really is where it's at.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  3. #328

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    Took it a few miles out the highway and back yesterday. Hummed right along at 60mph at about 2100rpm (which is par for the C5's 1:1 top gear, the 2.73's in the rear, and the P235/60R15's on it), requiring minimal gas pedal to do that for level road load... a good high vacuum/efficiency sign for minimal fuel use and about the right amount of ignition advance for that... 100kph/60mph is a common speed limit 'round these parts, lol. Primary idle air bleeds are at 0.074", with 0.031" primary idle feed restrictions in the Holley 750 vacuum secondary.

    Though, here we go again with the "one step forward and two steps back" thing... tomorrow I get to dive into getting at the blower motor and/or it's circuit, to find out why that's decided to not be working at all now...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  4. #329

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    Deep dove into the heater blower motor not working. Eventually found no continuity at all through the resistor block... didn't bother to remove it, but it's obviously not connecting through any of the springs any more... likely rusted/gone. Bypassed the resistor block, so now the Lo fan speed switch position fires up the blower motor at full speed (the only available choice at the blower end without the resistor)... so that's fine for now. I looked up a replacement resistor block on RockAuto, but the ones shown for '86 (four blade for the plug from the fan speed switch) do not resemble the outer plug side that I see in my car (four blade for the plug from the fan speed switch + two blade for the plug for power and ground to the heater fan motor... all one block)... side note though, there is an additional fan motor jammed up in there right beside the right of the glove box compartment, because this car originally had dealer-installed AC. Anyway, sometime I'll continue a search for the right resistor block, scanning other years I guess... but again, for now, either full blast or off is fine by me.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-25-2019 at 03:03 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #330

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    Had some time to take another spin this afternoon, and decided it was time to do a little ring-seating with this fresh engine, with a WOT blast through 1st gear. It's been a long time since driving something of my own that made me a bit nervous with the first time opening 'er up. Rolling at about 10mph, grabbing 1st gear and standing on it - there's definitely no lack of response, bottom end, and nose-up mid range hauling a$$ with this Holley 750 with all four barrels open on this 302... about half way through 1st gear it felt sorta on the edge of getting outta shape... pullin' hard I tell ya... 2.73 rear gears feels better than 3.73's ... shifted to 2nd at about 5500rpm (that we were at right quickly too, lol), since I'd rather it break-in than break, lol ... anyway, sure got my Saturday afternoon thrill, woohoo, lol
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-26-2019 at 05:00 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #331
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
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    Nice job Mike!

    I'm totally jealous you're driving your Fox!!! My '85 is sitting at my buddies house down south about 130 miles away in Palm Beach while I haven't made crap for progress on my '90 that's still in a million pieces... Glad to hear your project is running great!
    '85 GT

  7. #332

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    Santy Claus brought Michael a new camera this year, lol...

    I was hoping to have ALOT more miles on the rebuilt engine by this point... ran into a bunch of brake issues... new power booster was the biggest hit... but anyway right now there's a bit over 400 miles on 'er, and she's workin' good. Idling in the driveway after a short drive after installing a 195-degree thermostat in it...



    I had to rob back out the throttle base plate from the 3310 750 vacuum secondary, for a 650 double pumper (that it came from originally) for somebody, and so what's perched on top of the intake manifold is a 1958 (yes, you read that right, a 61 year old Holley (main body) that's got the best casting details and machining that I have seen so far) 500cfm (? the airflow ratings vary wildly in the listings for 1-1/2" bore and 1-3/32" venturi main bodies, from early carburetors listing 465cfm, all the way up to the dodo's there today listing the same bodied carburetor as a "570" Street Avenger) vacuum secondary, with modified (fully adjustable) primary and secondary metering blocks, the dual-feed float bowls, a Ford kick down primary throttle shaft added, and all main body air bleeds also adjustable. Idle and low-speed and light part throttle and cruise all work basically the same as the 750 did, but there's a night-and-day lesser wide open throttle difference compared to with the 750 on it. That's fine for now... the road surfaces right now aren't exactly conducive to much WOT travel, LOL! ... and upside-down in the ditch in a convertible with no roll bar isn't a good thing either, etc... LOL!!!

    It likes 14-degrees BTDC initial timing (total timing with the re-curve with that is 34-degrees BTDC), and generates about 15"Hg idle vacuum in Park/Neutral at ~750rpm... and as you probably heard, it idles pretty smoothly with how I've calibrated everything and have it adjusted.

    As for an update of sorts, I think that's about it.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-30-2019 at 11:12 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  8. #333
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
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    Idles nice Mike! By the way, what's the exhaust set up on there?
    '85 GT

  9. #334

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    Thanks, bud! BBK shorties and 2-1/2" off-road H-pipe, 2-1/4" tubes and small generic turbo mufflers, and then just 45-degree down/out "dumps". It's kinda more burble/rumble in the car than I'd like at low speeds, but no issue at all out the highway.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #335

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    Sounds nice & healthy! Great job.
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  11. #336

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    Thanks very much
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  12. #337

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    Installed a Holley 4 barrel LIST-4698 - 1343 (May 1973) 600cfm vacuum secondary onto the 306 back in February 2019, that I acquired with a bunch of others and parts lot...

    Car's present demeanor: 306 SBF with ~600 miles on it, ~9:1 CR, 218-degrees @ 0.050 intake duration camshaft, Performer RPM, ported E7TE cylinder heads, BBK shorties and h-pipe and turbo mufflers and dumps...

    OE info for the carburetor:
    - C9OF-9510-R / C9OZ-9510-N (so this is a "service replacement" for '69 Ford small block Ford-issued performance offering)
    - dual feed bowls
    - PMB/SMB 6698/4841

    February 19, 2020:
    - removed choke blade for easy idle air bleed access/tuning...
    - measured air bleeds and other...

    February 20, 2020:
    - cleaned main body...
    - drilled and tapped for 8-32x1/8" PMAB's and 10-32x3/16" PIAB's...
    - drilled and tapped for 10-32 choke vacuum block/bleed...
    - drilled and tapped for 6-32x1/8" and blocked TS bleeds into bores...
    - drilled for and installed brass sleeves to block IMS bleeds into bores...
    - drilled and tapped 6-32 for PMB IFR's, and PMB booster air correction bleeds 0.028"...
    - created SMB (epoxy dual angle booster feeds, create new single angles), that has up high IFR's - drilled to 0.031"...

    February 26, 2020:
    - cleaned main body and blew all out...
    - painted MB's satin black to match base...
    - installed into MB's and fresh air hole, cup plugs...
    - (to have manual choke later - block choke vacuum)...
    - created and installed 6-32x1/8" 0.026" PIFR's...
    - created and installed 10-32x3/16" 0.070" PIAB's...
    - created and installed 8-32x1/8" 0.031" PMAB's...
    - secondary idle ~1/4-turn open...
    - primary idle TS's squared...
    - IMS's ended up at about 3/4-turn out...
    - runs good, sorta lazy transition...
    - to increase PIAB's...


    It's present calibration:




    Took the car for a rip yesterday and the day before... near-to-zero emissions "blue sky and puffy white clouds" ( lol ) from the burbling exhaust at idle, snappy response off the mark, nice crispy part throttle acceleration (transition)... all things we all love, working pretty good. More super-tuning (mostly of main circuits) required when I get time...

    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-07-2020 at 03:35 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  13. #338

  14. #339

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    Mike — is this what you need to fix your blower?


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/163974813408
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  15. #340

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    Looks like that might be a solution for it. Bookmarked, thank you. I've got much bigger fish to fry...
    ... DIY 2x2 full sub-frame connectors, accompanied with home made Sherman tank-like lower rear torque boxes and LCA connection options to replace what's now crunched and distorted enough for the passenger drive (still has the 7.5" peg leg diff in 'er) tire to be residing at rest about a half an inch more forward than the driver's side tire ... all of the newfound horsepower didn't seem to bother the 7.5, but it certainly stressed the lower torque boxes, LOL! ... and then an 8.8" traction-lok will also be going into it...

    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Mike — is this what you need to fix your blower?


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/163974813408
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-08-2020 at 09:22 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  16. #341

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    Finally, within the past week, was able to get the frame rails 75% welded into/onto it. I still have to weld them along the inside of the front sub-frames, and I'm going to make my own double-hump transmission cross-member for better exhaust clearance, but I was surprised and happy to see that further jacking up each front corner for better access for the remainder of welding needed, that it also lifts the corresponding rear corner of the car, LOL!
    Umm, it's never done that before! That's a very good sign
    Some driver's side rocker steel repair needed... new rear brake hose, fuel tank, etc is on the way...
    To be continued...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  17. #342

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    Hey Mike. I am going to drag you back a couple of years...back to the 3.8L days. If you can remember....what did you do with the air pump that hangs down below the alternator? Did you fully disconnect it and just leave it there as a belt rider? I looked deep at your pictures and can't see if it is there or not.

  18. #343
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Post # 15 Mr Coffee and Java

    11-25-2015,*05:26 AM

  19. #344
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    This one Joe.


    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    So, the new battery that the previous owner put in, wasn't the right battery. It fit in the tray but not down under the lip into the tray, and as is was sitting at what I thought was dangerously close to the alternator fan, at an inch or less. That, and the ridiculously huge aluminum bracket that also once held the air pump under the alternator (which I had past experience with, with my '83 3.8 Cougar, busting clean off across the cylinder head mounting bolt holes one morning, rendering the car un-drive-able and not quickly repairable), as well as incorporating the steel bracket for the adjustable idler pulley, which was protesting fairly loudly with the engine running, no doubt due to a lack of lubrication. So, again I looked around and priced the idler and alternative pulleys that could be made to work... ridiculous cost involved IMHO, and the fact remained that I wasn't comfortable with how close the battery and alternator were, even after relocating the battery tray as far forward as possible.


    So first, here's a before and after:




    I removed the steel tube brace to the intake and the alternator/idler bracket, the alternator, and then the aluminum combination alternator/air pump bracket from the cylinder head. So, with hack saw and file, I got rid of all of the aluminum but the cylinder head mounting face with bolt holes and the air pump hole, cut to length (accounting for the air pump hole being about an inch further rearward, that needed spacing the alternator forward for belt alignment) the necessary length threaded stud for the alternator to now pivot on, fabricated two nice thick strips of steel for mounting and adjusting brackets.


    Both:




    The bottom bracket for alternator pivot. I learned about the necessity of this bracket the hard way with the Cougar. A threaded stud alone is not enough to counter the forces when the belt is tightened:




    The top bracket, for belt tightening adjustment:




    Miles away from the battery, and nice quiet running under hood, and a nice short belt with the removal of the dealer-installed AC as well. The upper rad hose and belt had about an inch between them, but I made that short piece of steel attached to the fan shroud to hold the hose away just for safety sake. My super-dooper steel strip bent-and-hooked-into-inner-fender-hole, threaded rod, and wingnut battery hold-down can be seen here too, lol:






  20. #345

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    Looking good Mike! Somehow I missed 2 years of updates on this car. I just got my 351w into my formerly 3.8/c5 car as well. Maybe I missed it but have you done anything to beef up the C5 yet? I'm torn on building the C5 up with C4 bits or doing a 5sp swap.
    -Randy
    '83 Mustang GL notchback - 351w - T5Z
    '84 Mustang GT350 20th Anniversary Hatch #2808 - 302 - T5
    ''92 Mustang LX Hatch - 2.3t - IRS (in progress)

  21. #346

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    Yeah, I ditched the air pump... threw it as far as she'd fly!

    The only things I did with the C5 was new fluid and filter before the V8 was even in front of it, adjusted the bands, and cranked in (then back out 1/4-turn) the small screw inside the vacuum modulator's vacuum nipple, to get it to "hold out" longer in each gear... that wasn't enough with the 302 last I was driving it (the car is still up on stands... got some odds and end done today... 8.8 rear end to go in next, then I gotta get a gas tank, rear brakes re-connection (redo rear hard line to back up in the center above the axle, and got a (good long) 1986 F150 rear flex line that'll connect to the hard line then splits off to each drum, attached with a fabricated flex line mounting bracket that'll put it top of the pumpkin middle (all this in order to use my 2-1/2" tail pipes)), mufflers and tail pipes, etc, etc... getting there...). I shift it manually. Works fine. Going to keep an eye out for an AOD, so I can put the 4.10's into the 8.8. For now, I'll leave the 3.08's in the 8.8 that's to shortly go into the car.



    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  22. #347

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    Awesome! What posting did you find that on?

  23. #348

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    Found it...but sadly, the pictures have long since departed the pattern. I am a handy sort of fellow. Guess I will take what it says and figure my way through it! Be nice getting rid of those hard lines running from that pump along the valve cover right above the park plugs, darn things ate the backs of my hands up changing plugs!

  24. #349

    Cool Yep....

    Quote Originally Posted by Coffeejoejava View Post
    Found it...but sadly, the pictures have long since departed the pattern. I am a handy sort of fellow. Guess I will take what it says and figure my way through it! Be nice getting rid of those hard lines running from that pump along the valve cover right above the park plugs, darn things ate the backs of my hands up changing plugs!
    Well, I got everything removed. LOTS OF ROOM on the pax side of the engine bay now. Found out why I could not see the pics earlier. My companies servers block certain things in some blogs...and the pics in this blog are one of them.

    Got home and started tearing into things, all that oppressive gook is gone from the engine bay...cast aside like last weeks chowder.

    Because my idler pulley is actually brand new, I am going to see if I can get a belt that will be short enough that I just put in on and adjust "normally". Went to the DAYCO site and wrote down a few parts numbers. Looks like my next run to the Auto Zone or NAPA will be a good sized order between all the stuff to get his thing wired and plumbed.

    This is fun...should have done this a year ago/...oh yeah...parts stores closed due to the Wuhan....I knew there was something!

  25. #350

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    Probably won't help you if you're keeping the monkey-nuts idler pulley, lol, but the serpentine belt that I got to work with my relocated alternator and no air pump was a Dayco ("Gates" was printed on it) part # DAY 5060695... if you'll notice, you can school the parts place employees that the last three digits in the part numbers are actually the belt length... gee, car guys measuring the belt length that they need, whodda thunkit... in this case, 5060695, it was 69.5" (69-1/2") long belt...

    The BS of the cornholio bug political narrative... the bottom is long-overdue falling out of it... thank F...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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