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  1. #276

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    The 30-over pistons & rings, 10-under bearings, oil pump, double roller, gaskets, etc. for the '79 302 arrived Tuesday ...

    ... but, stop the presses, there's a 4-barrel intake manifold for a 351W (and an '88 8.8 Traction-Lok rear end ) in the works ...

    To be continued, as usual, lol ...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  2. #277

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    To go grab an '88 8.8, and a C9OE ('69) 351W 4V intake (yes, cast iron, a bit on the heavy side, lol, oh well... good used aluminum 4V intakes for a Windsor don't appear to be common or cheap) on the 30th or thereabouts... for a couple hundred $ and a replacement dual feed primary float bowl for his 650 double pumper that's got a primary bowl with stripped accelerator pump threads. An okay deal I think.

    Sucks the digital camera took a dump... no pictures, *outlines recent activities with words*...
    On the potential 302 front...
    - Was able to use father-in-law's hydraulic press, and pressed off all 16 garbage '79 and '89 302 pistons...
    - Stripped the '79 block of it's frost plugs and camshaft rear plug and all oil galley plugs, and of some of the nice dirt and sludge on it's exterior, and chased all it's threaded holes... to be doused and let soak for a while with oven cleaner, and soaped up and scrubbed when nicer outside (which I 'effing hope is shortly... hello, mid-April, where are you?... rain, rain, and more rain projected at least 'til mid next week... grrrr), and then painted and re-plugged...
    - cleaned up good and weight-balanced '79's connecting rods, and made wooden fixtures for hanging them horizontal, for small/big end weight match balancing with a small digital scale set on grams. All of the rods are +/- 1/2 gram total and each end now. Also made a fixture for when putting pistons onto rods DIY, where the piston sits squarely in it against two short dowels up out of the base of the fixture, and with adjustable piston body stop bolts, and an adjustable wrist pin stop bolt, so that after the rod small end is heated some with a propane torch, and slides easy (but quickly, before rod cooling and the rod/pin ~0.002" interference fit takes place) in through the piston/rod, the wrist pin and rod end up centered in the piston. Pistons were all +/- 1/2 gram outta the box.

    ... 'bout it for now...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 04-20-2019 at 05:23 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  3. #278
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    Reads like you got a ton of work done, but . . . . WITHOUT pics its like it didn't really happen!

    But wait, I have pictures of all mine and other's projects and it sound as though you are making more progress than I am . . . . Without Pictures!

    Maybe the PICTURES are my problem!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #279
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Jan 2005
    Location
    Cordova, TN
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    994

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Reads like you got a ton of work done, but . . . . WITHOUT pics its like it didn't really happen!

    But wait, I have pictures of all mine and other's projects and it sound as though you are making more progress than I am . . . . Without Pictures!

    Maybe the PICTURES are my problem!

    LOL. I have noticed pictures take a lot of time, if you are the one doing the work and then thinking of how do I get good pictures to document this correctly.


    On a side note @walking-tall, have you tried Ebay or Craigslist for a 351W intake? Or even Corral.net? I got my 351 Air Gap for for less than $200 iirc, and other than being dirty, it in great shape.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  5. #280

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    ... yes, Trey, as they say, slow'n'steady wins the race, right? There's a decent long list of things to do, and I can't get at 'em without rubber boots and a frickin' raincoat... yeah, no... ... there's a couple-couple things I can do indoors... will get the pistons hung, prep/mod distributors for advance curves, etc... I gotta get another camera, 'cause you're right, all this trying to yap to explain sucks compared to the shear marvel of razzle-dazzle photographic proof of the deeds

    droopie85gt... yes, I've been watching Ebay, and I don't think there's a Canadian Craigslist or equivalent, but have locally and provincially been watching kijiji like a hawk... no dice... only the '69 iron one popped up, and reasonable... I don't care about the extra weight, since this SOB, especially if ending up Windsor-powered, is going to easily generate about 3x as much power compared to what bored me silly with the tired 3.8 in 'er
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #281

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    Heated ('79 302's) rod small ends and "hung" the new 30-over pistons on the rods last night. That, a new learning adventure, went okay. Ordered a new speedometer cable, as the one on the car has a cracked outer casing near the transmission... leaky. Got all four corners of the car good and up in the air onto jack stands and blocks today... hoping for all sorts to get accomplished within the next few weeks or month. Brought in the RPM intake and headers for sprucing up later when I do so with the off-road h-pipe.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 04-28-2019 at 12:35 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #282

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    I've got hurtin' muscles today I forgot I had, lol. There's an 8.8 (heavier than I remember, lol) here now, supposedly out of an '86 Capri, where they swapped it out for an 8.8 with 4.10's, that somebody wrote 3.08 on the inspection cover. I didn't notice a tag, and so we'll see what's what when we go in. It all looks in good shape, a bit greasy/dirty, a bit rusty, thoroughly toasted shocks still on it... pretty much the usual of used parts... but wiggling and rotating each axle shaft and the pinion flange and everything feels in real good condition... bonus alert, somebody put the old (early '80's?) factory "slapper" bars on it. If I use those, they'd be shimmed in the rear, because there's no value to be had in "shocking" street tires, unless sending your rear tires up in smoke is the goal, lol... there's lots of value (forward thrust) though in establishing axle anti-windup.

    The C9 1969 351 Windsor intake is in nice shape, blasted and painted sometime in the recent past, but what a pancake compared to the 302 Performer RPM, lol... When it's used, at least a 1" carburetor spacer will be put to use

    Finished cleaning up and painted the RPM intake with a "flat aluminum" VHT paint that I picked up. I like it, it looks just like fresh clean new aluminum, not too flashy like some of the high heat silver paints.

    Submerged the dual sump 302 oil pan I have into the big tub-o-vinegar and distilled water last night, due to some surface rust that developed with the recent number of days where there's been 100% humidity and not quite spring here yet. Anybody know what thread size the low oil level sensors are? Looks like a normal kind of bolt thread. I'll be eliminating it one way or another. Should be able to clean that up later today and paint it.

    I've been having another lingering thought/wonder... who thinks the car will have a functional 4/6/8 switch for the tachometer so that I can use it for with a V8?... I was in there a couple years ago when getting the car road-ready, but didn't notice...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-01-2019 at 08:47 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  8. #283

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    If anybody recalls, some bonehead installed the rack'n'pinion that's in the car about 1/4 turn off-center, because it'll steer right to the rear inner front tire sidewall rubbing on the sub-frame rail point, and much less to the left. Anyway, I got the steering column bolt/nut and the rack input shaft pinch bolt (7/16" 12-point) undone the other day. After all apart, the outer tie rod ends undone, I will center the friggin' rack (like it should have been... does anybody use their brain anymore, or just band-aid and baler twine their screws ups?), readjust the outer tie rod ends from their inner/outer cluster-bleep extreme adjustments to make up for the off-center rack travel, and set toe-in again.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  9. #284

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    "... what thread size the low oil level sensors are?" Apparently, 20 milli-peters, M20x1.5... maybe I should try selling the sensor... because, gee, a new one from RockAuto is $244.57 + shipping Canadian ....

    Spun an axle shaft one turn and counted the pinion flange turns... just past three turns... 3.08 it is
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-01-2019 at 06:35 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #285

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    Painted 302 oil pan and 351W intake manifold.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  11. #286
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Location
    Nebraska
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    Looks....... just like text......

  12. #287

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    Yeah, yeah, I'll get another damn camera soon
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  13. #288

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    Removed the remainder of the puny single exhaust.

    Undid the outer tie rod ends and took the rack & pinion out. FYI, 15mm bolt heads at rear of k-member, and 18mm nuts at the front... on this '86 anyway.

    I'm going rant some about this, lol... why on earth did Ford bother to cut splines in shafts and couplers, when they just include a flat on the shafts and couplers that cannot be installed any way but the one way? I'll try to make a long story, short...

    Driver's side outer tie rod end was threaded onto it's inner tie rod end at least an additional 1-1/2" than was the passenger side outer tie rod end. I was far too aggravated to measure/count exactly how far off-center "they" had adjusted things. Here's the point: the rack is 3 turns, lock to lock, and when it's centered (hello, 3 divided by 2 is 1.5... centered rack) the FLAT that IS on the rack steering input stem (where the splined coupler and pinch bolt connect), ends up in a vertical orientation... and a problem is, when the steering wheel (wheel/column also has a flat) is centered, the flat of the splined hole below the rag joint, at the pinch bolt, is in a horizontal orientation... so, in the best of scenarios, things are 1/4 turn off, and there's no mechanical connection of steering wheel to column, column to rag joint stem, or rag joint pinch bolt collar connection to the rack's input stem that can be adjusted for that. A further problem WAS, whoever was monkeying with this... I would love to speak with them... because 1/4 of a turn of steering wheel input into the steering rack equals about 1/2" of tie rods travel, NOT 2+ inches (!), the approximate amount of unequal adjustment the outer tie rod ends had, limiting steering to the left, and allowing the rear inner sidewall of the passenger side front tire to rub the frame when turning right!!! Seriously, "they" cranked the driver's side outer tie rod end nearly all the way onto the threads on it's inner tie rod end, and the passenger side was threaded on about an inch....

    The rack will be going back in CENTERED, the steering wheel CENTERED, and I'll MINIMALLY adjust the outer tie rod ends off-center for straight-ahead front wheels to make up for this 1/4 turn anomaly of the "flats" that cannot be corrected otherwise ... so that there will be equal amounts of turning radius, steering either direction, and no tire rubbing... what a concept...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-05-2019 at 06:05 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  14. #289

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    Cool project!

    Here is a cleaning tip you may want to try. Bounce dryer sheets and a very small amount of hot water. Moisten the dryer sheet and use to clean interior. Takes grease off etc. and smells good too. Good for material like your door pulls, seatbelts, etc. I can clean my whole interoir with 2 of them and thats a good thing says Martha.

  15. #290

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    Yeah that pisses me off too that steering boxes and racks are keyed. Not all but most are. Always have to get the rack centered and then pull the steering wheel after it is driven to put on straight.
    A tip if you want to set toe in I usually do 1/8" toe in on rwd and 0 of fwd.
    I jack up the front end and paint the centre section of the tire with white paint, then hammer a nail thru a 2x4 and spin the tire and have this nail scribe a line on the tire in the paint. Set it down and rock back and forth about 1 foot so it is sitting properly on the ground after being jacked up. Then just use a tape measure this is when a helper ummm helps to get to set to 1/8". That setting keeps it on the road and any more will peel your tires. I never pay for a simple toe in setting.
    I then test drive and then set the steering wheel straight. Always blue loktite or replace all steering fasteners( especially the nut for the steering wheel..
    You probably already know all this or have your own way but just in case any of it helps.

  16. #291
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
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    You are having too much fun! Lols

  17. #292

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    While window shopping at RockAuto, I notice that the "rag joint" listed for all years of Fox bodys that I see that they offer, a "LARES 203", shows no flat machined within it's pinch bolt collar spline bore... anybody use one, know for sure if these pictures are accurate?...





    ... if so, the ability to only make 1/2 or full turn adjustments in the steering apparatus from steering wheel to rack and pinion input stem shaft, and the need to HAVE to have a 1/4-turn off-center rack, and then a difference of about 1/2" thread engagement with the outer tie rod ends headache, is over... for about 40 bucks to the door... I might grab one, but I wouldn't mind rather to hear from you guys... or, because 40 bucks is 40 bucks that can be put to better use elsewhere, I'll think about relieving (file, grind, etc) the good shape rag joint's pinch bolt collar that's in the car of it's machined flat... BTW, there's no issue with what's on the car, so the flat could be eliminated, because the pinch bolt itself and the flat are on opposite sides of the bore... I mean there's no necessity like the bolt and flat work in unison or anything like that... you can even see from the pictures of this one above that the shank of the bolt is outside of the bore's diameter.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-08-2019 at 08:18 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  18. #293

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    Thanks for the tips, 78futura

    Yes, James, fun indeed
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  19. #294

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    Hogged out (die grinder and carbide cutter - the rag joint pinch bolt component is cast iron) the flat out of the bore of this rag joint. There's actually only partial spline-age in the original bore, so those are now grabbing onto a different area of the rack stem's splines. Worked like a charm. The rag joint can now be positioned wherever the hell you want it on the rack's input stem, lol ... will be exactly centering everything and adding new inner and outer tie rod ends for good measure.

    Removed the gauge cluster... to replace the speedometer cable with the new one, maybe today... found the 4/6/8 dial switch just below the tachometer, clicked it over to the "8"... I guess we'll see whether or not the tach works right when a V8 gets fired up...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-09-2019 at 08:45 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  20. #295

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    FYI to future people doing a 3.8L V6-auto to V8-auto conversion:

    After getting a good used double-hump transmission cross member (for the ability to install dual exhaust), I noticed that it was welded rearward onto the outer bushing tubes that bolt to the car, and that the original for single exhaust off of the car ('86 V6 with C5 transmission) is welded forward onto it's bushing tubes. At first I thought... shoot, gonna have to grind those welds and reposition the cross member forward... Nope ---> threw the engine mounts onto both a 302 and a 351W, measured from installed V8 engine mount studs (that drop into the k-member slots) to the back face of the engine blocks that the transmission bolts to, and compared to the V6 dimension, sure as shootin', putting a SBF V8 into a Fox pushes everything back about an inch further than with a 3.8L V6. No different drive shaft needed, because as was with the V6 still in it, the front drive shaft yoke into the transmission tail housing had better than an inch still outside the back... so I'll be cleaning up and polishing the drive shaft yoke further rearward so that there's a nice clean smooth surface for the transmission tail housing bearing and seal to work with.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-09-2019 at 09:04 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  21. #296

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    Cam & lifters, flex plate, tie rod ends and rack bellows, rack pressure/return lines nylon seal washers, and a Subaru M20x1.5 oil drain plug & gasket (to block the low oil level sensor hole in the 302 oil pan) ETA Thursday or Friday.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  22. #297

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    All of the above $hit is here... now, if mother nature will stop with the friggin' rain and 100% humidity (supposed to let up Thursday), maybe I can get outside and get some $hit done, lol...

    Limited the mechanical advance slot in the '72 Mustang Grande 302 points distributor that I have here for 10 (distributor) degrees, or 20 crankshaft degrees of mechanical/centrifugal ignition advance... so that the 14(or +) degrees BTDC initial timing setting that the 302 is going to like will jive with a ~34-38-degrees total mechanical/centrifugal ignition advance. Only still, have to notch out a space for the DuraSpark II wire exit rubber grommet. I put a medium heavy original advance weight spring in one side of the mechanical advance apparatus, and a spindly weak spring on the other... for an approximate full mechanical advance all in by ~5000rpm...

    Put a Ford kick-down primary throttle shaft into the Holley LIST-3916-S 950cfm 3-barrel... gonna need a short (1/2" or so) spacer to notch out the secondaries so the 3-barrel's secondary throttle plate can open up and say AWWWW...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  23. #298

  24. #299
    FEP Member
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    Mar 2017
    Location
    middleboro massachusetts
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    350

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    While window shopping at RockAuto, I notice that the "rag joint" listed for all years of Fox bodys that I see that they offer, a "LARES 203", shows no flat machined within it's pinch bolt collar spline bore... anybody use one, know for sure if these pictures are accurate?...





    ... if so, the ability to only make 1/2 or full turn adjustments in the steering apparatus from steering wheel to rack and pinion input stem shaft, and the need to HAVE to have a 1/4-turn off-center rack, and then a difference of about 1/2" thread engagement with the outer tie rod ends headache, is over... for about 40 bucks to the door... I might grab one, but I wouldn't mind rather to hear from you guys... or, because 40 bucks is 40 bucks that can be put to better use elsewhere, I'll think about relieving (file, grind, etc) the good shape rag joint's pinch bolt collar that's in the car of it's machined flat... BTW, there's no issue with what's on the car, so the flat could be eliminated, because the pinch bolt itself and the flat are on opposite sides of the bore... I mean there's no necessity like the bolt and flat work in unison or anything like that... you can even see from the pictures of this one above that the shank of the bolt is outside of the bore's diameter.
    i just purchased one of these on ebay.lares 203 i believe.worked and fit perfectly.made a humongous difference in the feel of the steering.my old rag joint was in bad shape.

  25. #300

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    i just purchased one of these on ebay.lares 203 i believe.worked and fit perfectly.made a humongous difference in the feel of the steering.my old rag joint was in bad shape.
    ........................
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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