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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemlock View Post
    Finally got the guide bar re-installed today! What a total pain! I rolled the window almost all the way up and pushed the bar though the guides and then lubed up the guides and bar with lithium grease. I pushed the bar down until it hit the floor of the door and then pushed a couple of large screw driver handles into the top to spread the door skins apart to get the top of the guide bar in. I then put both my arms into the openings into the door interior and moved the bar around until it lined up with the hole in the floor of the door bottom and then pushed down from the top until it dropped into the bolt hole. I got it all adjusted and the window is now working great.
    I finished the sound proofing on the floor and have now done the drivers side door. I also replaced the door panels inner dew wipe that was dried out and breaking up. I still have to do the passenger door. I went to put the door panel back on after I took some pictures and discovered that the door panel push pins were to old to reuse because they were falling apart so I had to order more from Late Model Resto. I am a little pissed at LMR right now because I ordered a new hatch striker from them a few weeks ago and they sent me the one for the 90-93 Mustang even though I ordered the correct one for my car. They are now expecting me to pay to ship it back to them even though it was totally their mistake! I also bit the bullet and ordered the heavy duty bolt kit for my new K-member and for the new rack and pinion. I still have several things I have to buy before I can do the K-Member install. The cost of all the new parts is pretty pricey to do all at once so I am buying a few parts a week until I have them all collected. The high priced items are the struts, cross drilled rotors with ceramic pads, bump steer kit and the spindles. I still haven decided whether I am going to buy new 2" drop spindles or just pick up some nice used ones. Anybody buy the 2" drop spindles? Are they worth the cash?

    Here is a few pics of the sound proofing. I used GTMat's Onyx (70mil Butyl rubber) It's a smidge thinner then the Dynamat Xtreme but it was also $100 cheaper (50 Sq Ft, $160) and will work fine.




    Almost have the carpet completely re-installed and now I'm just waiting for the parts from LMR so I can complete the doors.

    Thank you for taking the time to read my posts and for the cool compliments!
    Robert
    Check out the HELP section like at oreillys or chain part stores they have strikers and body fasteners like push pins and such to retain body panels interior and exterior

    Granted there are some parts that are unique and special

    DOORMAN online has pieces as well

    I'm kinda shocked that your getting razzled by LMR they hit the market strong and seem to be doing well for service
    To loose a customer over shipping charges and such is not good for something so minor but very understandable from your point of concern

    So just a heads HELP section at autopart stores may have what you need

    Curios though what's the difference in the striker for hatch?
    Body of the retainer too big or too small ? Too long too short ?

  2. #27
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions xctasy!

    I actually like the fact that my car looks almost completely bone stock under the hood minus a few of the smog goodies in there. I feel the car would lose a lot of it's charm if it didn't still look stock under the hood.

    I finally got ahold of LMR today Jerry and they told me they were very sorry about the wrong part being sent and they were shipping out the correct part right away! I was pretty happy about that and they told me to just keep the other part to save me shipping it back to them. I am pretty pleased with LMR now! If anyone needs a hatch striker for a 90-93 Mustang let me know and I'll give it to you for nothing, just pay the shipping

    I checked the parts section at the local Autozone yesterday when buying some butt connectors and sure enough they had some of the door panel push pins tucked away on a rack in the back LOL. When I called before I ordered them from LMR and asked the counter guy about them he said they didn't carry them, go figure! These are the same guys that want minimum wage to be raised to $15 an hour LOL

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Nice,glad to hear they stepped up

  4. #29
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    I finally got the car completely put back together today and took it for a spin. I went ahead and pulled my front sway bar off last weekend and replaced all the bushings and connections with the red Energy Suspension ones, I also sanded and repainted the bar in Ford engine red like my block. It came out really nice! The new sub-frame connectors made a huge difference in the way the car handles and drives!

    I only have a few parts left to get for the K-member before I can put it in. I still need to pick up spindles, struts, Brake calipers, slotted and cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads.

    I was hoping to hear from someone on the boards here about the 2" drop spindles and are the worth the extra cash or should I just find a nice set of used ones? Also has anyone used the Strange adjustable front struts? Are they a decent strut or should I look into something else?

    Thanks for any info, advice or comments

    Robert
    Last edited by Hemlock; 01-15-2017 at 11:48 AM.
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  5. #30

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    Nicely done! I like the stock look under the hood. It has a lot of character and I bet it is a blast to drive.

  6. #31
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    For the last 2 or 3 years I have been dealing with gasoline smell inside the RS that has been gradually getting more prominent to the point of me feeling it was not safe to drive the car about 3 months ago, so the car has been sitting. Last month I pulled the strut tower brace plus air cleaner and sure enough the crappy Spectre "braided" hose setup I had on there was dripping at 2 of the connection points. Rather then tightening all of the hose clamps and trying to fix what in my opinion was a sub-standard fuel system I decided to bite the bullet and spend the cash on a braided -AN style fueling system from the fuel pump to the carburetor and through the Nitrous system. These days I hate substandard parts and figured it would be worth the extra cash to have piece of mind that the fuel system was "rock solid". I spent around $150 on all the parts I needed to make the system work at first. I bought Summit brand -AN parts trying to save a few bucks but found the Summit parts leaked as bad if not worse then the crappy Spectre stuff with hose clamps! Keep in mind I had them send 2 sets of Summit brand parts. The first set leaked like a sieve and the second had just a single annoying drip but it was still a leak so it had to go! It took over a month messing with the Summit parts shipping it back and forth waiting for them to send the replacement parts just to find the new parts leaked too! I eventually ended up spending just over $200 buying Earl's duel carb feeder and all Russell premade hoses and -AN fittings. No leak problems now! Summit was decent about the whole ordeal with no problems doing the exchanges but I am a little more leery of the Summit products now! I am not sure if I would roll the dice on any more of their products. I will definitely be reading the reviews now because there was a few people complaining about the same problems I had with those particular parts. Drove the car last night and it runs great with no gas smell!

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you got that issue behind ya. I wouldn't want to take a chance with the fuel system either. I would almost bet that the Summit brand fuel stuff was made by Spectre also, hence the poor quality.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #33
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    Ok just putting the last touches on my new k-member install. I still need to get the motor mounts to sit in the k-member saddles correctly, finish the power steering, do a temporary alignment to get the car to a pro alignment shop, bleed the new brakes, adjust coil overs ride height and refill all the fluids I drained to do the installs.

    Things upgraded/replaced during this install are:

    1: New UPR K-Member $780
    2: New UPR/Viking 12" 200lb Coil Overs with Strange 10 way adjustable Struts $240
    3: New UPR Polished Caster and Camber plates $200
    4: New Maximum Motorsports 1/2" K-member drop kit (Extra room for the RPM Air Gap and Nitrous Plate causing hood issues) $100
    5: All new M12 hardware, I changed every bolt! (lets face it folks, the factory hardware was 34+ years old!) $150
    6: Upgraded to 87-93 front brakes/spindles $130
    7: Upgraded to new red powder coated brake calipers $140
    8: New Power Stop Slotted and Cross drilled rotors $120
    9: New Russell Braided brake lines $80
    10: New Hawk Ceramic Brake pads $90
    11: New SVE Bump Steer kit $140
    12: Reman. 2.25 Sport style Rack and Pinion $100
    13: All new Energy Suspension Red bushings throughout the entire front end $120
    14: New Ford Racing one piece Oil Pan gasket (Fixing small oil leaks) $30

    Total cost was just over $2500, although I am sure I am forgetting a few items.

    This could obviously be done for a lot cheaper if you reused some of the old factory parts and bought cheaper versions but I wanted a nice new front suspension in my car. I am kind of OCD that way.

    Total weight savings over stock is almost 90 pounds! Holy Crap that old stuff weighed a ton!









    Eventually when I have time, I will be posting a Review video on HotRodsToday.com and YouTube covering some aspects of the install and information on the UPR K-Member.

    I will post more pictures when the install is completed with more information as I finish up.

    Thank you for taking the time to read!
    Robert
    Last edited by Hemlock; 01-15-2017 at 11:51 AM.
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  9. #34
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    NICE ride! I would be interested to know if the UPR K member and a arms moved the fronts wheels forward at all. Also, I am interested in how it holds up driving on the streets with potholes and such. It just seems those a arms are TINY. But it looks awesome and saves weight. Plus looks like a lot better access to headers and the starter.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    NICE ride! I would be interested to know if the UPR K member and a arms moved the fronts wheels forward at all. Also, I am interested in how it holds up driving on the streets with potholes and such. It just seems those a arms are TINY. But it looks awesome and saves weight. Plus looks like a lot better access to headers and the starter.


    The stock Fox is a modified Mac Pherson strut car. When adjustable spring platforms modifications are made, you have to upgrade the upper spring tower bracking, or failure results. Roberts done that. There are freedoms in weight reduction, and it lookes odd since the components look like an early F1 machine but the change works well.

    The whole UPR K member suspension system is now a hybridised Mac Pherson strut with adjustable spring perches.


    Component longeivity for this system was tested out long ago in the 1977 Australian Cortina, which used the Mustang Fox steering, and then reverted to a Mustang II style coil spring cross member. Even that system saved 34 pounds still in pressed steel.

    The Austrlians didn't like the Fox IFS that much, due to having the roughest roads in the world at that time, they stuck with the Mustang II and ages old 71-73 Mustang set up, but that wasn't a vote against the Fox.

    They and opted out of the Fox program untill the revised RHD Mustang of 1999, but the first Aussie Group A Mustangs did use it, and raced it and used fabricated uprights, lower arms, and other stuff in 620 mile endurance races at up to 160 mph.


    They still had to use the pressed steel K member, sadly.

    See my link in my signature. NZ Fox Racers.

    The stuff you can do to a Fox is just awesome. The US aftermarket has risen to the challange.

    As of 1985, Ken Hopper and Ford SVO were doing some seriously weird SH!+







    Front = fabricated fully adjustable McPherson strut & lower wishbone
    The basic issues is that the factory K member wasn't designed for adjustable spring perch suspension.

    Those A arms differ for that reason. Its more like the Heidts Mustang II A arm, or fabricated deTomaso/ Jaguar XJ IFS arm.

  11. #36
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    Got the car all put back together and took it to the alignment shop over the weekend. The suspension works great and is a lot smoother then the old crap. I will need to get use to the more sensitive 2.25 steering. I think I need to re-bleed the brakes, the peddle still feels a little squishy. The Ford Racing "C" Springs that were on there made for a really rough ride! They handled great just not very comfortable to ride in. As far as the position of the tire in the wheel well, it is almost identical to the factory positioning. The only difference I noticed was the front tires are about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch wider then the factory stuff. Meaning they stick out a little farther then before but not enough to be a problem or really change the look of the car. I didn't really drive the car too much seeing as the drag radials on the back are so bald. Right now it just spins the tires if you put your foot in it and it feels anything but safe.

    Here are a few pictures I took of it yesterday across the street from my house.



    I'm still very happy with the way the car looks and the performance just keeps getting better!



    I only have a few things left I am wanting to do to the car.



    I still need to do disc brakes in the rear. I want to narrow the rear end 1 inch on each side and redo the rear suspension. The suspension that's in there now is rock solid but I want to get it to where the tires don't rub at all with nice coil overs with a pan hard bar. I want to redo the seats either in factory fabric or in leather. At this point I am actually seriously considering the leather route due to the cost of the factory fabric! Factory recover will be almost twice the cost of doing the whole car in leather! That is crazy! Seeing as the car is already modded to the hilt, I don't think the change to leather will be that big of a deal. The factory paint these days is really starting to look it's age but that will most likely be way down the road.

    Thanks for taking the time to read my post!

    Robert
    Last edited by Hemlock; 02-06-2017 at 08:22 PM.
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  12. #37
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The RS looks Sweet!

    Congrats on getting it back together and on the road again!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks awesome.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Amazing!! Looks great

  15. #40
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Now that is looking good!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #41

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    Always loved this car! Never knew it was all posted up here. Score!
    Brian R. of Michigan
    83 TBird 5.0
    88 Ranger 2.3t
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...83-Tbird-build

  17. #42

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    When I lived in CA and had a highly modded engine, I would just have a spare Stock Engine to install for the Smog Check, I used it enough to were I could get it installed and running in just a couple days. It was a pita to do every couple years but it did the job. Another Option a friend did (though not exactly legal) is to have a Stock Mustang/Capri, around the same year. The Modded Car would be Nonop, the stock one registered and legal. Make sure both cars are Insured, switch the plates around and if you get pulled over, the police will do the usual check, see its registered to you and insured. The only issue is if they check the VIN, but this should never happen unless there is a problem when the Plate is run.
    1985 Ford LTD LX
    1989 Mustang 5.0 Coupe
    1994 Ford F150 Lightning

  18. #43
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastlane View Post
    Another Option a friend did (though not exactly legal) is to have a Stock Mustang/Capri, around the same year. The Modded Car would be Nonop, the stock one registered and legal. Make sure both cars are Insured, switch the plates around and if you get pulled over, the police will do the usual check, see its registered to you and insured. The only issue is if they check the VIN, but this should never happen unless there is a problem when the Plate is run.
    I almost did this option LOL! Several years ago I was looking at a white 84 RS just like mine except it had desert tan interior and no T-tops up in the bay area. I wanted to have a stock smog legal car and just do the plate switcheroo with my modded RS every couple of years at smog time. Unfortunately the deal fell through at the last minute because some financial troubles came up which made me have to spend the cash I had saved elsewhere. The car ended up selling to someone else out of state.

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  19. #44

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    I wonder if that might have been the car I recently bought? It's a California car originally, the Warrany Information card that was still in the glovebox, show it was originally sold by Desert Motors in Ridgecrest, CA. It looks just like your car except no T-tops and it has Desert Tan interior!
    The guy I bought it from transferred the title on 3/31/2003. He lives in Kansas....

    Check out the thread I just started about it:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ri-RS-Restomod

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    Last edited by Flyin'Montdude; 02-17-2018 at 10:45 PM.
    '79 Fairmont Futura
    '79 Mercury Zephyr wagon
    '83 LTD Wagon - future Mustang "Sport" Wagon
    '84 Mercury Capri RS - 5.0 5spd
    Owner of Victory Engines and Machining, LLC
    g2G

  20. #45

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    Hey Robert,

    I was browsing around on ebay and saw these HEMLOCK street signs and I thought you might be interested:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEMLOCK-DRI....c100005.m1851

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEMLOCK-ROA....c100005.m1851
    '79 Fairmont Futura
    '79 Mercury Zephyr wagon
    '83 LTD Wagon - future Mustang "Sport" Wagon
    '84 Mercury Capri RS - 5.0 5spd
    Owner of Victory Engines and Machining, LLC
    g2G

  21. #46
    FEP Power Member Hemlock's Avatar
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    LOL There is a Hemlock street 1 block away from my house

    The nickname Hemlock actually came from a Dungeons and Dragons character I had back around my high school days and late teens. I totally just revealed my hidden nerd status LOL!

    Robert
    1984 RS 347 Capri, To many car parts to list, check out my car build page here for the story on my car and a full parts list/setup!:

    My RS in Action

  22. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemlock View Post
    I totally just revealed my hidden nerd status LOL!

    Robert
    You are gonna have to change the subject if you want me to argue.... LOL!
    '79 Fairmont Futura
    '79 Mercury Zephyr wagon
    '83 LTD Wagon - future Mustang "Sport" Wagon
    '84 Mercury Capri RS - 5.0 5spd
    Owner of Victory Engines and Machining, LLC
    g2G

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