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  1. #1

    Default Ugh..Halo headrest removal

    This is not an easy task. Tools I have utilized so far to no avail:
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    They only go down so far, and the headrest just won't budge. I read about some people going up from the bottom with a long screw driver, but honestly the explanation seems a little vague. And I'd be jamming a screwdriver blindly up there.

    Any pros at this with solid advice?
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
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    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    YouTube videos are available. Have seen them using metal coat hanger down the front.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Thats the one I was looking for

  5. #5

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    Tried the coat hanger. No good. That headrest in the video has a longitudinal groove in the front of the stake that the hanger can fit down. Mine is flat faced.
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Try a flat poece of banding tape. Approximately half inch wide and about 1/32" - 1/16" thickness.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    When you say that "you can only go down just so far", where you meet resistance is the part you need to get past in order to unlock the headrest. Doing it from the bottom is much harder than doing it from the top.

    There's no center groove in your headrest support? That would present a problem.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini1999 View Post
    When you say that "you can only go down just so far", where you meet resistance is the part you need to get past in order to unlock the headrest. Doing it from the bottom is much harder than doing it from the top.

    There's no center groove in your headrest support? That would present a problem.
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    No groove. Did some halos have it? I could see that making it a lot easier.
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  9. #9

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    By the way, I didn't get it out yet, that's the replacement.
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Ive seen it and performed the removal both ways.

    My father makes quick work of them with a slimjim from the topside.

    I prefer unzipping the seat back material and heading in with a long flat head screw driver.

    The headrest slides into a metal frame. Id recommend feeling with your hand up on the metal frame for the spring tab that is locking the headrest in place. The spring tab is located IN FRONT of the metal frame and that is where you need to use your flat head screwdriver to slip in next to the spring tab and twist the screwdriver and pull up on the headrest. When you twist the screwdriver behind the spring tab you allow the headrest to slip past the tab and out it comes.

    With the slim jim method you start with the headrest fully extended. Slide the slimjim in as far as it can go. Once it stops then firmly hold the slim jm and push the headrest down together with the slim jim. With any luck you broke past the tab and can now pull the headrest out while still holding the slim jim in place.

  11. #11

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    I tried that slim Jim method for almost two hours using a hacksaw blade, a thin piece of aluminum, and a shelf bracket just the way you described. It just wouldn't budge. I'm assuming it has something to do with the headrest never moving up in 31 years. It's really stiff.
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member smitty54's Avatar
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    Pull the headrest up as far as it goes. Then shove the hacksaw blade down, forcibly, until it won't go any farther. Then push the headrest and the blade down at the same time. Once you've done that, pull the headrest back up as hard as you can, it should come out. All I can say is that it should work and it might take several attempts to get it out. I had the same problem, but it did eventually come out. Good luck!
    Last edited by smitty54; 11-18-2015 at 03:56 PM.
    "Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac."
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    Rick
    84 GT Convertible
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  13. #13

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    The design is just freaking stupid, plain and simple. There are two spots that the blade can lock into but once you get past the first the second is easier to manage. At least there aren't two huge pins stuck to the posts inside the seat like on the Recaro headrests, but the single blade halo's are a huge pita as well. Why ford over-engineered some parts and under-engineered others is beyond me?
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



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  14. #14
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Lol, "A LITTLE" rant, Mike?
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    It's so hard to do for the first time, but so easy to do once you finally get it out. There is a thread in here somewhere of an "unskinned" seat so you can see the entire frame structure, along with the detent that locks into the groove of the stem. Pretty stupid design as mentioned. Next time I have to do it will try the hacksaw blade method...seems easy and logical enough. Me, I've had plenty of success with a long flatblade screwdriver from the bottom. Just be carefull on the way in and out with your hands....some pretty sharp edges in there!
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
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  16. #16

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    Using a piece of thin aluminum sheet cut slightly thinner than the support post. Place a small curve in the aluminum strip and position it so the end is pushing against support post. Like this |) . Slowly push down on head rest while making sure the aluminum is being flatten as you push and you must make sure you are pushing down on aluminum strip. You will feel the strip go in and preventing the lock from engaging. Once you feel the strip blocking the lock push down on the strip only not the head rest. This will allow the strip to reach the end of the support post. Pull out the head rest and strip together now. If you are having trouble getting the aluminum to keep going in after reaching the lock, Put some KY jelly on the strip. Its good for fitting into all kinds of tight spots and it cleans up with water.

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member Mustang Marty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sowaxeman View Post
    ... There is a thread in here somewhere of an "unskinned" seat so you can see the entire frame structure...
    Here is the thread, Post #10

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...light=headrest
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  18. #18
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    HAHAHAHA, BRUTE FORCE pays off. Was trying to remove the SVO headrests from two SVO seats that are gonna be done ala 20th Anniversary Mustang material. With the seats on the garage floor, I stood on one and gave a forceful tug. BAMMM. One down. Did same to second seat. Headrests are out
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  19. #19
    FEP Member javdog's Avatar
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    no success trying these methods

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Take the seat apart

    unzip the bottom of the backrest

    flip the seat up with the headrest between saw horses or catch the corner in front or back of the halo on your front step

    get out a long and strong straightblade

    shove it up in the from the bottom and twist it a bit to get yourself some relief

    put the screwdriver end perpendicular to the halo bar and strike it with a hammer like you mean it. Or beat the bahgesus out of it if needed.

    Halo lands in the ground.

    Smile!

  21. #21
    FEP Member javdog's Avatar
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    Thanks will give it a try. What a pita.

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I used a 5 lb sledge when I did this. It came right out.

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member 83GTJIM's Avatar
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    For 83 with netted halos, I used a screwdriver and a "slimjim", the door unlocking tool. I used a long Craftsman small flat blade (#1 I think) screwdriver coming up from the unzipped bottom of the seat (backside). I used the screwdriver to partially raise the retaining clip. I then slipped the slimjim under the screwdriver to fully disincage the retaining clip. You might have to jiggle and push down on the headrest. I then pulled up hard and the headrest came out. It does take some cussing.
    MCA #110307
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  24. #24

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    For what it's worth, I have found removing these to be a complete nightmare. It's not YOU. I always unzip the seat back cover and go up from the bottom with something like a hacksaw blade with no teeth. I see threads where people make fun and say it's easy etc. and that's fine. It's definitely not ALWAYS easy at a minimum. At a Junkyard one time I ended up having to do what I have seen people make fun of others for doing and that is just cut the entire back out of a sport seat to get the damn things out. And I've had them all. I have 1984 sport seats, 1990 sport seats, 1992 sport seats and 1989 sport seat right now and 2 of the sets have netted halos in them. AND EVERY SINGLE ONE was a pain. So don't think it's just you. I

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    So, I happen to be in Marina Del Rey right now. If you swing on over to the Hotel MDR off Maxella I can help you out. Bring a long flat blade screw driver with you.

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