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  1. #1

    Default NPD oil cooler opinions and applications

    Has anyone used NPD's oil cooler that they sell? I was wondering if it's any good and does it fit a 2.3T..??? I plan on driving there to Detroit and get one.. Comments appreciated...

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Mental notes i have about the time i ran an aftermarket Hayden external oil cooler.
    Without a aftermarket engine oil temp gauge, have no idea how well it worked.
    Derale has been around a long time; http://derale.com/about

    Adding a filter adapter will reduce oil filter clearance.
    Not easy to get a filter wrench on it as it is.
    Requires shorter filters.
    Does not the SVO and others need short filters because of the factory oil filter cooler adapters?

    Other option is to install a remote oil filter kit between the engine and cooler.
    Had mine on the ds frame rail below the washer fluid tank.
    Finally an easy to change filter. Pan drain plug task stayed the same.
    More hoses to monitor and maintain.
    Looks cool.

    Make sure the in/out lines are routed correctly.

    Found cast aluminum adapter on block for remote filter can crack and leak at the hose barb fittings.
    At least the cheap one i used did. Next time am using a billet or high quality cast one.
    May have fatigued it by using heavier one piece hydraulic lines instead of barb/hose.

    One year after cooler install:
    Loose hose clamps will allow a hose to blow off the fitting.. and dump all the oil everywhere pronto.
    After loosing almost all of a 2 day old fresh change of MObil 1 20w50, took all the cooler stuff off the next spring.

    A real freak out to be on I-275 and suddenly see huge smoke cloud in rear view mirror and oil gauge dropping ominously.
    Then you have to kill the engine to save it.
    Then you think what to do next?

    First counted blessings.
    Coming home from work (time); AM (daylight); Light traffic; Good weather, neighborhood, close to a store (K-Mart). Have tools.

    Then you exit to an off ramp (and lucky to coast to one with engine off). Park and pray.
    Then all you find is a hose came off cooler (good). Reconnect hose and tighten good.
    Then you see oil everywhere. Some residual remains to this day 12 years later.
    Then walk to nearest store for 4 qts oil, paper towels, 2 cans degreaser to temp clean some of the mess, paper funnel.

    All is well. No harm was done. Removed oil cooler 9 months later. Stuck to 10w30 after all that.
    Now feel oil cooler was not really necessary with synthetic or semi syn, at least on a daily driven stock engine in our climate.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-22-2015 at 01:41 AM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Hmmmm. I wondered about the quality and was it really needed. Also the possible issues of reliability. Years ago my new oil pump locked up on me on I 69 here in flint. Broke the small roll pin in the distributor gear and made the motor go out of timing. Really sucked to leave the car until I got towed. I am using a Melling brand High VOLUME oil pump and was wondering if that could cause ANY issues pumping excessive oil to the turbo and make oil get pushed past the bearings and back into the intake. I saw a YouTube video of a guy putting a inline shutoff valve to choke the flow of oil going Into the turbo oil feed. Any thoughts on that??

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Read some use nitrous jets to restrict flow to turbo.
    Aint gonna do nothing like that. Just feed it oil.

    On 9/25/85, the same dist roll pin sheared on my car.
    Stock engine and pump.
    Cold engine, entering freeway, quick merge accel.
    Engine backfired (rare) and quit. Dealer repaired it (roll pin).

    Now i drive easy and warm up engine oil, especially on cold days.
    Dist. is a Cardone 30-2490. Pump is TRW hi vol for 2.3 turbo. 15 years no issues.

    My 93 Ranger is a stock 2.3. Stock pump has plenty of pressure.
    5w30 valv blend since new.
    oil pressure# (autometer sport comp)
    22+ at idle, warm; 40+ cold
    50+ while driving steady rpm, warm; 60-80 cold.

    Figure car is the same or a little more under similar conditions.
    With stock pump factory gauge read slightly to the right of center at all times.
    With hv, range is a little left of center warm idle to high end of normal when cold.
    Stock bearing clearances, etc. 100,000 on rebuild.
    The IVR plays into these readings along with fuel level, etc.

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