pics of my crossmember

[redse]

Well was dialing in my aod on my 5.0 from 89 LX in my 84 LX messing with the tv cable, have that dialed nice but I came to a stop and shifted down my B&M hammer shifter what I thought was D actually was in 2! Well I wanted to see what speed it shifted into D after those adjustments so kicked it down and I thought wow this never shifted out of second yet and looked down it was it 2 so I shifted it into D then into OD. Well after that every time it down like coming to a stop it would make a grinding noise. So when I got home I looked underneath of it and didn't notice anything, then put it on ramps and I noticed this I have been under this quite a bit before and never noticed it! My son son my tach showed between 6500 to 7000 ram when I shifted would that of caused this? I don't know what all has been done to the motor or transmission neither is stock! Motor and transmission still seem fine.I should of been paying attention to the tach!

[redse]

Top pic is passenger side and bottom drivers side!

[FUKAZ28]

To me it looks like it was a T5 crossmember and someone ground the factory welds off and slide it forward and re tach welded it. Plus the bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
This method is used when putting a C4 auto in place of a T5.
I personally would get a aftermarket cross member that is tubular.

[redse]

To me it looks like it was a T5 crossmember and someone ground the factory welds off and slide it forward and re tach welded it. Plus the bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
This method is used when putting a C4 auto in place of a T5.
I personally would get a aftermarket cross member that is tubular.

What's the best bang for the buck crossmember and keep in mind I want better than stock and also if something ever happens to this aod a 5-speed is going in its place! So I would like it to be able to handle that also!

[redse]

Can the crossmember be taken out and a new tubular aftermarket one from LMR be put in with the dual exhaust in place? It is a fully welded exhaust!

[wraithracing]

Can the crossmember be taken out and a new tubular aftermarket one from LMR be put in with the dual exhaust in place? It is a fully welded exhaust!

I don't believe you will be able to remove and replace the crossmember without having to drop/loosen at least one side of the exhaust. You may still have to loosen both sides from the headers/manifolds to make it all work.

As for crossmembers there is nothing wrong with the Ford OEM dual hump unit or the replacement units. They will hold up just fine except in extreme power situations. If you want to make the upgrade to a tubular unit there are a couple of options although all of them are much more expensive than the stock style unit.

Here is one option that will work for either your AOD or a T5 swap: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...45#post1748545

Here is another option, but if you decided to make a swap later you would need a different crossmember if I read their details correctly: http://buystifflers.com/chassisstiffening-2-1.aspx

Good Luck!

Trey

[redse]

To me it looks like it was a T5 crossmember and someone ground the factory welds off and slide it forward and re tach welded it. Plus the bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
This method is used when putting a C4 auto in place of a T5.
I personally would get a aftermarket cross member that is tubular.

Trey does it look like what he has said about it, and what would be the best bushings to use for this along with a new mount? Ford racing makes a crossmember that is bare and could be used for aod and a T-5 for around $60. I was checking a few sites and had seen where some talk of the factory crossmember as be a cheap flimsy piece? Thank in advance

[wraithracing]

Trey does it look like what he has said about it, and what would be the best bushings to use for this along with a new mount? Ford racing makes a crossmember that is bare and could be used for aod and a T-5 for around $60. I was checking a few sites and had seen where some talk of the factory crossmember as be a cheap flimsy piece? Thank in advance

Yes, it appears to me that you have an original crossmember that was fitted to a T5 and then someone swapped it to your car with the AOD. The AOD mount is further back than the T5 mount and requires that you slide the actual crossmember all the way back on the tubes. The tubes are adjustable to make the same crossmember fit either transmission.

I have used only the factory dual hump crossmembers so far and I have yet to have one fail. I have had them under cars making anywhere from stock to over 400 HP and still no issues. If you were a hardcore drag racer and drop the clutch on every launch then I would be more concerned about the crossmember. For the average street car there shouldn't be an issue. If you have the money and want to "upgrade" to the tubular style there's nothing wrong with that either. I personally have considered the two listed above myself on a couple of my projects, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Oh I will say that virtually every Fox I have owned, I have swapped the stock rubber bushings for poly units just to reduce the amount of movement the transmission can have and that is a great upgrade IMHO.

Good Luck!

Trey

[grabbergreen84]

I've read that you can grind the welds holding the bushing tubes to the cross member itself, and make it adjustable.

Your existing one can be made to work and fit properly, if you're not up for buying another.