Close



Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1

    Default Convertible help.....

    I just picked up my car yesterday and had no problems with the top. Had it up and Down several times. Today I put it down and went for a ride and when I went to put it back up it just made a single click sound from the area of the top. I tried several times and it would click. It then worked went half way up and stopped. It went back down then would click when I tried to raise it. Anyone got any ideas? Is my motor shot? A relay? The switch?

    thanks

  2. #2

    Default

    Or a wire.

    You can check the switch for constant continuity.

    Might just be dirty contacts on the relay. You can pull it out and test it.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St. Louis, MO.
    Posts
    5,208

    Default

    Yep, I agree, check the relay first.

    You might want to buy this manual, best money I've spent on my vert.....
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Top-Guide-Book

    Also, check this thread out, LOTS of good info there.....http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...rtible-Q-amp-A

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  4. #4

    Default

    And I meant the terminal contacts where the relay plus into the wire harness, not the actual 'switch' contacts for the secondary circuit, which are inside the relay.

    If the inside contacts are bad, then replace the relay.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  5. #5

    Default

    I second the Top Guide Book! When my motor went I would only get a click from each of the relays. I'm guessing motor, but check all the connections and make sure you're getting power on the output side of the relays first.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the tips......I'm going to order that book and do some testing. I find it weird how it will work half way then crap out then not work then after it sits will work half way again. I'll report back when I figure it out.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    556

    Default

    I had a similar problem with my '85 top. I read about dirty contacts inside the switch as a possible culprit. I bought a can of CAIG DeoxIT switch and contact cleaner at Guitar Center, disassembled the switch and sprayed it down with the contact cleaner. Completely solved my problem. I had a similar problem with my right rear quarter window when trying to raise it with the driver's side switch, but couldn't disassemble the 4 way window switch completely. So, I have to reach over and raise the quarter window with the back seat switch. Here's a link to the CAIG contact cleaner (used for stereo equipment, electric guitars, and amps). https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...AoKY-QGzqLrgAw
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
    http://www.twilightphoto.com/

  8. #8

    Default

    I ordered the book. The relays are getting intermittent power in them. But every time I move the switch I hear a click so I don't think its a switch issue I think the relays are bad. Gonna get to new ones and hopefully that resolves it. Thanks for the comments/tips!

  9. #9

  10. #10

    Default

    The relay coils are not fed from the same power source as the power feed to the pump motor. And top up
    does not use the same relay as top down, so unless you're betting both relays have failed, you might want
    to take a look at the power feed, before replacing parts.

    The circuit breaker for the top power feed is on the back of the switch. Check the voltage on both breaker
    terminals while you're trying to operate the top. Where you go next will depend on whether you find voltage
    on both terminals, one terminal, or none.

    The top power feed comes directly from a fusible link on the starter relay, through a connector in the same
    area. It passes through another connector under the right side of the dash hull. On the other side of the
    circuit breaker, the power feed passes through a 3-pin connector at the left side cowl, before heading back
    to the rear of the car, along the left rocker panel.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  11. #11

    Default

    I was thinking both had failed but your post makes more sense. I'll check the circuit breaker and power feed before I order relays. Thanks!

  12. #12

    Default

    Please keep us posted on this one!
    Regards
    Gary

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member 86ragtop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    orange county,NY
    Posts
    520

    Default

    Yes,please keep us posted.Can't lower or raise my top either.hear clicking at relays an getting voltage from power feed to relays.swapped in the fuel pump relay just to test and still won't go up.l pulled the motor out and bench tested and it works in both directions.I put the motor back and ran a ground wire from the battery to the motor chassis and still nothing.could it be a low voltage problem from the switch maybe?
    Nick. 86 vert GT,p-heads trick flow springs,explorer intake,off road H,super 44's,still speed density

  14. #14

    Default

    When you check for voltage on the power feed, you need to put the circuit under a load. You may be
    measuring voltage that only exists when the circuit is floating. This is why I said in the post above to
    test for voltage at the circuit breaker while trying to raise or lower the top.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  15. #15

    Default

    Ok so I finally had some time to look at this and I got my convertible manual. I took the switch out and was expecting to see a circuit breaker but nothing. There's a blue butt connector spliced in. No circuit breaker anywhere in sight. I'm thinking someone cut it out and my problem lies with the connector. The relays are clicking and power is getting there but is it possible that the voltage is not high enough to activate the motor but enough to click the relays? Uggghh I hate chasing electrical gremlins!

    also...should the circuit breaker be right in the rear of the switch? Should I add the breaker back in seeing it seems someone removed it.

  16. #16

    Default

    Well I finally figured out the problem....this took a back seat as I keep it in the garage and my water pump crapped out so that took priority....It was indeed the circuit breaker which I found and was not attached to the switch. Someone replaced the switch and never connected the circuit breaker back to the rear of the switch. Instead they just shoved it up under the dash. I also found a wire to the circuit breaker with a ****ty but connector on it the wire fell out of when I moved it. So long story short...replaced the circuit breaker and soldered the wire back together. Top works fine.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •