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  1. #851

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    Congratulations Brock, your mustang really looks nice brother.

  2. #852

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Attachment 122032 just like that brock. Did it this morning. Its not quite perfect, If you stare at it long enough the strait part looks crooked and the crooked part looks strait.
    That looks great! This is for sure a better way to do it than the way I did both times. When you flip the bumper vertical, the 30 year old plastic sags in the middle so you actually have to apply it crooked on purpose in the middle to make it look straight to the eye. Picture a very slight "SMILELY" face when viewed from the rear. I TOTALLY get what you're saying though. It still is easier than you think it will be and the tape stripe is so cheap you just pull it off and start over. No harm no foul. Get frustrated and walk a way for a bit. I STILL would do it again. The doors and side moldings that are glued straight are SUPER simple to do. Attach it at the front and pull it tight all the way to the rear and it has no choice but to be straight. You don't walk it down the door inch by inch. That probably would be a nightmare. At least to me it would.
    Last edited by homer302; 07-08-2018 at 07:59 PM.

  3. #853

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    Yeah, you're right. That bumper isn't to straight after 40 years. That's why I said it's not perfect. Looks pretty good though. Can't wait til my bumper foam shows up so i can get it on the car

  4. #854
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Heck ya - no sagging bumpers! It’s a pet peeve. One of those things you might not notice but once you do you see it on all but the supported ones!

  5. #855
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info on laying the stripes guys, it doesn’t seem so bad. Also thanks for the stripe info Shane, that helps a ton.

    Now with that being said....there’s a small hitch. It seems I can’t locate 1/8” Tan stripe anywhere. They make it in 3/16” and 1/4”, at least what I can find. I may have to go 3/16” if I want this done.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #856
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Since I like multiple things going on at once.... I have another thing in the works to be done before Friday night. I’m going to leave you guys guessing until then.
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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #857
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Welp, the bumper stripes didn’t happen before the MCA National in Lincoln this weekend, but I did get the other project done. I refreshed the valve covers and while far from perfect, I think they will work until the winter when I have more time to work on them. I’m debating having them powder coated in this fashion instead of the paint they currently wear. I think the body color lettering is a neat touch.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #858

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    Yeah it is Brock, don't change it, that looks bitchn'.

  9. #859
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Finally got off my butt and started working on a couple minor appearance items. While one is kind of a success, the other is a major fail.
    I’m for the most part happy with this subtle change. I realized how much things do not exactly line up on these cars, bu I think it’s as close as it will get.
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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #860
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Next up was the much talked about molding pinstripes. I have for the most part given up trying to find 1/8” tan pinstripe tape. It comes in 3/16” or 1/4” but not 1/8”. I have searched high and low for it to no avail.

    That made me decide to try my hand at painting it. I measured things out and applied the white 1/8” pinstripe at the top and bottom of the recess and striped the middle with 1/4” to get the break. I painted it in with a brush and it was so close....yet so far. I’m definitely not happy with it as the lines are horrendous and uneven. While it may pass in photos, it doesn’t in person.

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    I think what I’m going to do is mask everything off and spray the recess tan. Once that dries, I will lay out the white 1/8” pinstripe and then paint over the recess in black again. Once that dries, I should be able to peel the tape off and have nice even lines all the way across. At least that’s what I’m hoping for.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #861

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    Maybe a roll of blue fine line tape Brock? Lay the stripes out like you want them to look and paint them on.

  12. #862
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Maybe a roll of blue fine line tape Brock? Lay the stripes out like you want them to look and paint them on.
    That’s essentially what I did by using the pinstripe as a guide, but I obviously can’t color inside the lines anymore. I will get it right on the second try though!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #863

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    Stripping mine was really difficult, it made my eyes Google out and made me dizzy. Even though they are pretty good ( I traced the old raised stripes), the more you look at, it it looks crooked and straight. Plus the covers aren't perfect either. It will look the worst to you, no matter what.

  14. #864

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    Last time I did it I could not find it either. It's so cheap I bought a roll of a multi-size stripe. It was not just a straight roll of 1/8 stripe. It was a dual stripe and It had a 1/8 and also a 1/4 stripe together on one roll. I just pulled off the 1/4 and never attached it to the to the car. Just cut if off and tossed it. Hopefully that makes sense. Still easier than hand painting.
    Last edited by homer302; 07-29-2018 at 05:39 PM.

  15. #865
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Last time I did it I could not find it either. It's so cheap I bought a roll of a multi-size stripe. It was not just a straight roll of 1/8 stripe. It was a dual stripe and It had a 1/8 and also a 1/4 stripe together on one roll. I just pulled off the 1/4 and never attached it to the to the car. Just cut if off and tossed it. Hopefully that makes sense. Still easier than hand painting.
    Might have a lead on some stripe that will work from another 4E brother. Even if it doesn’t pan out, the 4E community is the best with their willingness to try and help others out.

    Stay tuned!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #866
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Might have a lead on some stripe that will work from another 4E brother. Even if it doesn’t pan out, the 4E community is the best with their willingness to try and help others out.

    Stay tuned!
    Finding the right color stripes may be difficult due to the unique colors of your GT. Hopefully your lead works out.

    Another option you might seriously consider is a local pinstripe artist. They can custom mix to get the correct colors if needed and they can apply them directly to the moldings. I am always impressed with how well they can pull a straight line. Also it is usually not too bad price wise for something like this in my experience.

    The last bit of advice I would give is that if you do apply the stripes yourself, you want to pull as long a line as possible. That means you pull the wheels off and put the car on jack stands. Then literally start at one end of the car and pull your stripe from one end of the car to the other. Don't stripe each molding individually as it will never look straight in my experience. You are better to pull the entire side of the car and then go back and cut your door openings, wheel openings, etc. Then once the sides are done you can pull the stripes on the front and rear bumpers. I overlap the quarter panel molding to start and then pull around the curve on the bumpers and then across the flat area of the bumper and then back around the curve on the other side. This helps to align the stripes with the sides of the car and hopefully a nice straight line across the flat part. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Finding the right color stripes may be difficult due to the unique colors of your GT. Hopefully your lead works out.

    Another option you might seriously consider is a local pinstripe artist. They can custom mix to get the correct colors if needed and they can apply them directly to the moldings. I am always impressed with how well they can pull a straight line. Also it is usually not too bad price wise for something like this in my experience.
    Good advise Trey! The pinstriper I had do our car actually taped the front and back mouldings and then painted the stripes. I had originally expected freehand when I first called and booked the guy. Not sure on mixing colors as I used black and silver. I wanted the black flat but the "1-Shot" paint line he used only had gloss. The second time he did our bumpers he did a great job and I am happy. We did not have to have the side moldings done as the were all in good shape.

    There used to be a website called "Pinhead Lounge" that I found this guy local but he said that has mostly died off and most are on Facebook etc.

    It wasn't something I was willing to tackle myself. Plus he did house calls and was reasonable. This guy charged $50 for each bumper and $75 per side (for the body stripe).


    Last edited by 82GTforME; 07-30-2018 at 10:54 PM.

  18. #868
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The last bit of advice I would give is that if you do apply the stripes yourself, you want to pull as long a line as possible. That means you pull the wheels off and put the car on jack stands. Then literally start at one end of the car and pull your stripe from one end of the car to the other. Don't stripe each molding individually as it will never look straight in my experience. You are better to pull the entire side of the car and then go back and cut your door openings, wheel openings, etc. Then once the sides are done you can pull the stripes on the front and rear bumpers. I overlap the quarter panel molding to start and then pull around the curve on the bumpers and then across the flat area of the bumper and then back around the curve on the other side. This helps to align the stripes with the sides of the car and hopefully a nice straight line across the flat part. Hope that helps!
    Well either I got lucky or I'm better at pin striping than you are I did all my moldings off the car and just did the bumpers after the moldings were in applied. I found it was much easier to get straight lines and even spacing of the stripes working at benchtop level. The bumpers were the hardest to get right while almost having to lay on the ground to have them at a good viewing level. Of course having to wear reading glasses to see properly is no help either for detail work like that.

  19. #869
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Well either I got lucky or I'm better at pin striping than you are I did all my moldings off the car and just did the bumpers after the moldings were in applied. I found it was much easier to get straight lines and even spacing of the stripes working at benchtop level. The bumpers were the hardest to get right while almost having to lay on the ground to have them at a good viewing level. Of course having to wear reading glasses to see properly is no help either for detail work like that.
    You might be!

    Then again I didn't say I couldn't do the moldings individually, just that in my experience its better to pull the whole side at once. Besides its generally quicker and time is money right!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #870

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    Here I striped the front bumper with tape stripe next to the painted OEM 1984, YES, that's the original stripe that came on the side molding. I added the '84 1/2 front bumper is the reason. It will be at Foxtoberfest here in a couple months for anyone to view. Trey's idea would work fine on the sides but on original bumpers that have sagged, my experience is you can't pull it all the way across. ALL of them have a slight sag in the middle now or at least the few I have worked on. So a truly straight line would look crooked to the eye. Just my .02. Trey knows more about auto body in his pinky than I likely will ever know! And that being said, I TOTALLY agree that the longer you can pull at once, the better. Even on the sagging bumpers. Short, small sections will look crooked and applied by someone who is scared.

    Last edited by homer302; 08-06-2018 at 06:40 PM.

  21. #871
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I was lucky enough to find the correct color 1/8" pin strip on line for my 82 GT. I re-did all the moldings so they would match....

    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  22. #872
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Stripes are a pain. Best advise is stripe in a different color then put stripes right in beside on both sides then pull the original line and tape everything around it off.

    shoot it with color and wait not more than 30 min to pull the tape.

    I got stuck at the shop doing things like making stencils for painting painted stuff back on. Yamaha motorcycles used a painted on Yamaha and stuff for a few years - imagine laying that out. Pin stripes painted on are a snap.

    I would not do the paint it all tan then stripe it then pull the stripe unless the black has flaws that need to be fixed already.

    i still probably wouldn’t as it’s begging for tan to show through down the road, etc.

  23. #873
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Finding the right color stripes may be difficult due to the unique colors of your GT. Hopefully your lead works out.

    Another option you might seriously consider is a local pinstripe artist. They can custom mix to get the correct colors if needed and they can apply them directly to the moldings. I am always impressed with how well they can pull a straight line. Also it is usually not too bad price wise for something like this in my experience.

    The last bit of advice I would give is that if you do apply the stripes yourself, you want to pull as long a line as possible. That means you pull the wheels off and put the car on jack stands. Then literally start at one end of the car and pull your stripe from one end of the car to the other. Don't stripe each molding individually as it will never look straight in my experience. You are better to pull the entire side of the car and then go back and cut your door openings, wheel openings, etc. Then once the sides are done you can pull the stripes on the front and rear bumpers. I overlap the quarter panel molding to start and then pull around the curve on the bumpers and then across the flat area of the bumper and then back around the curve on the other side. This helps to align the stripes with the sides of the car and hopefully a nice straight line across the flat part. Hope that helps!
    All good advice Trey and I'm sure the next time I will try a lot harder as it will be a full repaint.
    For now, if I can get it close....I'm gonna be happy with it.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #874
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Welp........I think it turned out decent for my first time ever trying this. While not perfect and the color is a bit off....like the rest of the car, I'm thrilled to have a "complete" looking nose again.

    When it comes time for a repaint, I will probably have a "pro" re-stripe it.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #875
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good! Congrats!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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