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  1. #751
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Congrats on picking up a fresh motor for such a great price!! That is a good drop in and go motor and then you can build the original motor the way you want. Then you can always sell the roller motor down the road , probably for what you paid for it. That’s a win-win in my book. As for picking it up to get it on the engine stand, use the front and opposite rear corner I take bolt holes and a chain to pick it up on an angle or sideways and get it on the stand top piece ( take the stand apart) then position the base on an angle and bolt it all back together.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That's my thoughts on the motor also.

    I tried about every way possible yesterday with the stand, but it just wasn't happening. I think I need to get creative and maybe put the legs of the hoist on a brick or 2 to get it high enough to get the stand legs underneath it. Prolly going to be a bit sketchy.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #752

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    Believe it or not, I was telling my friends the evening I got home after Foxtoberfest that you drove 1,800 miles with no radio and we were ALL impressed. I think this was Brock after about 2 hours on the ride home:

    (hopefully they allow this link to work)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-lJZiqZaGA

  3. #753

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    I used a pair of (good) tie downs once. Worked pretty well

  4. #754
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Believe it or not, I was telling my friends the evening I got home after Foxtoberfest that you drove 1,800 miles with no radio and we were ALL impressed. I think this was Brock after about 2 hours on the ride home:

    (hopefully they allow this link to work)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-lJZiqZaGA
    Probably something like that!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #755
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Got the motor on the stand, which was a trick and a half in itself. Ended up taking the wheels off the stand so it would slide under the legs of the hoist and then picking it back up in a goofy fashion to get the wheels back on. Either way the motor is secure on the stand now.

    Time to find out whats going on inside of it. Supposedly it's a fresh rebuild so lets find out to what extent.

    Looks clean on the exterior. Water pump is new and even in a Ford casting.


    Oil galley is clean and roller lifters are new. I'm not sure on the pushrods, but they appear new also.



    Upper portion of the heads are clean. Factory rockers appear to have little to no wear on them. Unsure on if valve springs are new. Appears to have intake ports smoothed out in a poor mans attempt at polishing?


    Bottom of cylinder heads are clean and valves appear to be new. Unsure of why the one set of valves are slightly different from each other. Seems a bit odd to me but maybe it doesn't affect anything???? Some insight would be helpful.


    Camshaft is new, although I have yet to figure out what it is. Can't really find any sure fire identification on it. Found cam bearings have some wear. Not sure how big of an issue that really is.



    Cylinder walls appear to be clean. Fairly clean factory pistons, I would assume new rings but not for sure yet. Very slight ridge on top....and I mean very slight. A couple cylinders have very minor scratches that can be felt by the very sharp edge of a fingernail. Light honing/polishing done.



    Checked crank end play, it is showing .003" of play. Book says spec is .004 at the low end so it should be close. Oil pump is new. Freeze plugs have not been changed.


    Now the question is.......how much further should I go with this?
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #756
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Go all the way.!!! Lol.. do it do it....

  7. #757
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    Go all the way.!!! Lol.. do it do it....
    I figured someone would say that immediately.

    Most responses I have gotten say pretty much go like this:
    "change cam bearings, install big cam, throw the heads away and get good aftermarket heads, bore .030 over and while you are at it, stroke it."

    Yeahhhhh. That's probably not going to happen with this motor. Sorry guys. I'm just wanting to do what it takes on a tight budget to get this thing running and hopefully reliable.

    I probably could have just slapped it in and went, but curiosity caused me to disassemble a probably perfectly good motor in hopes to make sure it would not grenade shortly after install. I'm learning all of this as I go as obviously I'm not an engine builder and it has been 20 years since I have really even been inside a motor. I forgot most of it by now.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #758

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    I'm jealous, Brock, lol! I may or may not continue, at least for the Mustang, with the 351W I recently got because it's going to require at least 0.020" over boring and pistons, due to (excess thrust-induced, crankshaft endplay, most pronounced at the fronts of the cylinders) ring ridges in the cylinders that I could not get rid of with honing most of the cylinders 4.010"+. There's a 302 not far away, with 1.94"/1.60"-valved heads, apparently built by a "race shop" (we'll see exactly what that means, lol), I want to look at shortly and may go with... and I'll be doing exactly what you're now doing.

    I'm glad you didn't just slap 'er in, because everybody's assembly practices are different, but the appearance of a lack of lubricant everywhere (camshaft lobes/journals/bearings, bores/pistons, rockers, etc.) where it's usually a good idea to lubricate with heavy oil or something for a trouble-free start and break-in and chance at a good long life is concerning. It's less concerning because it has not run yet, and you are in there looking everything over. I see some white grease or something mostly on the lifters.

    It all looks good. Myself, I would measure, measure, measure the crankshaft bearing/journal oil clearances with plasti-gauge, and the cylinder bore diameters with a dial or digital caliper, or snap gauges and micrometer if you have those... juuuust to see and know how much honing was done. To be sure the main thrust bearing halves are properly aligned and for crankshaft end play measurement, I would loosen the two bolts for the thrust bearing's main cap, pry the crankshaft back and forth a few times, then pry it forward and torque the those two main cap bolts again, and then check the crankshaft end play, for 0.004-0.008".
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-23-2017 at 01:31 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang
    1974 Pontiac LeMans

  9. #759
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    I'm jealous, Brock, lol! I may or may not continue, at least for the Mustang, with the 351W I recently got because it's going to require at least 0.020" over boring and pistons, due to (excess thrust-induced, crankshaft endplay, most pronounced at the fronts of the cylinders) ring ridges in the cylinders that I could not get rid of with honing most of the cylinders 4.010"+. There's a 302 not far away I want to look at shortly.

    I'm glad you didn't just slap 'er in, because everybody's assembly practices are different, but the appearance of a lack of lubricant everywhere (camshaft lobes/journals/bearings, bores/pistons, rockers, etc.) where it's usually a good idea to lubricate with heavy oil or something for a trouble-free start and break-in and chance at a good long life is concerning. It's less concerning because it has not run yet, and you are in there looking everything over. I see some white grease or something mostly on the lifters.

    It all looks good. Myself, I would measure, measure, measure the crankshaft bearing/journal oil clearances with plasti-gauge, and the cylinder bore diameters with a dial or digital caliper, or snap gauges and micrometer if you have those... juuuust to see and know how much honing was done. To be sure the main thrust bearing halves are properly aligned and for crankshaft end play measurement, I would loosen the two bolts for the thrust bearing's main cap, pry the crankshaft back and forth a few times, then pry it forward and torque the those two main cap bolts again, and then check the crankshaft end play, for 0.004-0.008".
    I'm going to have to research all of this and I may buy the rebuild book by George Reid that it seems a lot of people reference. I have no concerns about doing it, but I'm definitely a go by the book kinda guy! I can follow good instructions.

    When I got this motor, I had every intention of getting into it simply because I can't trust everyone and where there were no receipts, it always make me question things. It appears that at one time, there probably was heavy oil on things as the oil pan had some thick oil puddles in it but this motor has been sitting for 5 years so I'm sure things have dried up a bit. I thought the cam should have a bit more on it also, but it is possible that over the years it has been rotated over by hand and wiped the lobes clean.

    I will definitely check everything, measure a few times and hopefully this turns out to be a good $300 investment.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #760

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    Brook,

    I know you got many things going on now. But very seriously, I highly suggest you put sub-frame connectors on there. It makes such a large difference. I did it like you, lots of mods and then did it. I put the regular Max. Motorsport ones on. Like many have said, it should be the first mod you do... Nuff said, care on with the fun. Mine is needing a roller motor soon too....love the thread.

    -j
    _________________________________________
    1984.5 Mustang GT: org. 5.0, 5spd, 3.27's;
    GT-40's w/93 exhaust; t-bird TC brakes....

  11. #761
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burntorange84 View Post
    Brook,

    I know you got many things going on now. But very seriously, I highly suggest you put sub-frame connectors on there. It makes such a large difference. I did it like you, lots of mods and then did it. I put the regular Max. Motorsport ones on. Like many have said, it should be the first mod you do... Nuff said, care on with the fun. Mine is needing a roller motor soon too....love the thread.

    -j
    Thanks J. I will have that done this winter.....even though I agree that it should have been done already. I promise you that after my 2,600 mile drive, it was never more apparent than now. It was most notable going through the mountains with all the twists and turns. I could hear the car flexing.

    Definitely will go full length weld ins before I hook any more power to the car.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #762

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    Agree on the subframe connectors mentioned above. Mine has seriously old school Ford Motorsport (before Ford Racing existed) subframe connectors on it that were installed sometime in the early '90s. It doesn't have T tops or a sunroof and you can still tell a difference when you close the doors after installing them. You seriously can. All Fox cars need subframe connectors and 3:73 gears period, LOL. Those are my 2 favorite mods anyway.

  13. #763

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    I'm not liking the visible wear on the cam or bearings personally. The cross-hatch pattern inside the cylinders looks terrific though. It's very visible which indicates minimal use. Roller cams NEVER wear out. They should last forever theoretically. The dark spots are a concern. Flat tappet cams wear out, roller cams should not look like that. If you hold a lifter upside down at a light source and look at the "roller" portion, does it have a "dip" in the center or is it flat all the way across?

    For reference, no it is obviously not a V8. This is the original Cam in my Turbo car. It was 29 years old and had 147,000 miles on it when this picture was taken. The head is also spotless.

    Last edited by homer302; 10-23-2017 at 07:34 PM.

  14. #764
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I'm not liking the visible wear on the cam or bearings personally. The cross-hatch pattern inside the cylinders looks terrific though. It's very visible which indicates minimal use. Roller cams NEVER wear out. They should last forever theoretically. The dark spots are a concern. Flat tappet cams wear out, roller cams should not look like that. If you hold a lifter upside down at a light source and look at the "roller" portion, does it have a "dip" in the center or is it flat all the way across?
    I think the "wear" on the cam is exaggerated by assembly lube/grease that is on it. I cleaned off the cam and a couple lifters to see how they look. I have no questions that both of these are new, with zero run time on them like I was told. The rollers on the lifters are flat across them. They might be bargain basement pieces though as I'm sure they are not top of the line parts.

    The cam bearings definitely show wear and probably should be addressed.







    In all honesty, I'm still a little concerned on why the valves in the head appear different. Does it matter that they look a bit different? some have deeper dishes in them than others.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #765
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Looks good Brock. The wear on the cam bearings is normal for a motor that has been turned over by hand with little to no lube on them, and never been fired or broke in. They should be fine ( showed pics to my engine guy and he agrees) but you could have them changed if it bothers you. Need a special tool to do it and have to install them perfectly to make sure the oil holes line up or itís disaster. So best left to a professional. Itís the one part of building a motor that I always let the engine shop do. Otherwise you have a great starting point. I would definitely invest in some assembly lube and break in oil and slather everything up before reassembly. And if you want to add some thump, either an E303 cam or the Anderson N-41 works well on a fairly stock motor and adds that awesome cam sound at idle. I am running the E303 and love it but if I had to do it over again, would run the N41 as it sounds a little nastier and performs better. Just my 2 cents. Also while the heads are off, if you are not running the air pump, plug the air pump holes in the back of the heads and grind the air pump ďbumpsĒ out of the top of the exhaust port runners. This helps a lot with air flow and really wakes up a set of E7 heads.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  16. #766
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Looks good Brock. The wear on the cam bearings is normal for a motor that has been turned over by hand with little to no lube on them, and never been fired or broke in. They should be fine ( showed pics to my engine guy and he agrees) but you could have them changed if it bothers you. Need a special tool to do it and have to install them perfectly to make sure the oil holes line up or it’s disaster. So best left to a professional. It’s the one part of building a motor that I always let the engine shop do. Otherwise you have a great starting point. I would definitely invest in some assembly lube and break in oil and slather everything up before reassembly. And if you want to add some thump, either an E303 cam or the Anderson N-41 works well on a fairly stock motor and adds that awesome cam sound at idle. I am running the E303 and love it but if I had to do it over again, would run the N41 as it sounds a little nastier and performs better. Just my 2 cents. Also while the heads are off, if you are not running the air pump, plug the air pump holes in the back of the heads and grind the air pump “bumps” out of the top of the exhaust port runners. This helps a lot with air flow and really wakes up a set of E7 heads.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I will have to research those "mods" as I have never heard of them, but I'm willing to learn. I have plenty of time so as much as I can do to wake this thing up, I'm game. I'm also cheap sometimes and this will be an awesome learning experience.

    I'm glad that the cam bearing wear looks normal, but I will go ahead and have the block magged and checked out. At that time, if everything checks out OK, I will have new bearings put in with a manufacturer of my choice so at least I know for sure what is in there. I'm at a point where this has essentially turned into a full rebuild, so I might as well do it right.

    More interesting observations and pictures to follow!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #767

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    Assembly lube definitely needed.

    tore up cam bearings yield poor oil pressure which causes lifters to not pump up correctly. Bad performance results.

    For valves it's likely one or both types were swapped in during head work. Some guys use a dished valve to slightly adjust compression to compensate for shaving heads.

    me personally - bring on the compression. 11 or more. Better springs, hardened retainers, better pushrods, and short stroke lifters are all friends. Make that old pushrod rev and kick out some HP.

  18. #768
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    The journey continues on the 89 roller tear down. While I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, I know when and where I'm capable of doing things without the good ol' paperback manual and this is one I need the book for. More than I think I can say about whoever had this thing apart for its last "rebuild". If any of my statements seem wrong to you or I'm doing something goofy, PLEASE let me know as I want to get corrected before I screw something up.

    Started off by taking Mikes advice:
    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    To be sure the main thrust bearing halves are properly aligned and for crankshaft end play measurement, I would loosen the two bolts for the thrust bearing's main cap, pry the crankshaft back and forth a few times, then pry it forward and torque the those two main cap bolts again, and then check the crankshaft end play, for 0.004-0.008".
    I did as instructed and that made a huge difference in the endplay reading. Final reading afterwards was .0006" endplay. That puts it smack in the middle of spec according to the manual.

    I then went to the section about removing the pistons and it suggested taking measurements of the connecting rod endplay before removing. Not sure if it is absolutely necessary, but I did it anyways. I struggled with this for a bit as things just didn't seem to want to move around and it was a bit of a pain to get consistent readings.
    Finally got them and came up with these:
    1-5 = .014"
    2-6 = .015"
    3-7 = 0.13"
    4-8 = .015"
    These are listed at the top of manual spec, but below service level.

    Now time to drop the pistons out of the block and that's when things started painting the bigger picture......at least in my head.

    I think I found the cause of the weird connecting rod clearances.


    This didn't stand out to me the first time I looked this area over, but it did this time. About half of the caps lined #'s to #'s and the other half did not. As soon as I pulled the caps of one that was matched up and one that did not, it became apparent that the ones that did not match # to # were backwards. The edges of the rods did not match up as one side is flat and the other has a beveled edge. Well......I think that could be a problem.

    As I pulled the pistons out, I inspected the rings, pistons, rods and bearings. What I found were the new rings appeared to be put in however the guy grabbed them. Last time I did this, there were clear indicators on the rings in which orientation they should face. Either they said TOP or had a dot on them.
    Some of the marking dots were facing up, some were facing down:


    Each piston was different in how the rings sat in them. Plus, it's been forever so maybe its normal, but the rings seemed really loose and damn near fell off the pistons without even touching them.

    Then I ran across my favorite piston in this block.....#4 cylinder:

    Yup....broken top ring is how it came out of the hole. Seriously?????

    Connecting rod bearings generally looked like these examples across the board:



    And then there is this dude on #3 cylinder:



    What the hell??? Either this guy reused old con rod bearings, or there are issues still lurking.

    Inspected the crank where the rods ride and it appears that they have been worked at one time, but it still seems that something is a miss.

    This is the the journal for 4 - 8 piston. I can feel these lines ever so slightly with a fingernail:


    This is the journal for 3 - 7 piston:

    I do believe that nick is what caused the gouge in the bearing. I can definitely feel that with my finger.

    I have not gotten the crank out of the block yet to inspect the rest of it, but I'm assuming I need to have the crank turned again to get rid of those imperfections I see and feel?
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-25-2017 at 10:25 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  19. #769
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Who ever assembled that engine had just enough knowledge to be dangerous. The marks on the first set of rod bearings appear to be due to the cap being reversed which would misalign the bore. That nick is definitely bad too.

    Given the serious issues you've found, I would be going over every single part and measuring every single spec and clearance to see what else is messed up. Basically you are starting from scratch with this engine.

  20. #770
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Who ever assembled that engine had just enough knowledge to be dangerous. The marks on the first set of rod bearings appear to be due to the cap being reversed which would misalign the bore. That nick is definitely bad too.

    Given the serious issues you've found, I would be going over every single part and measuring every single spec and clearance to see what else is messed up. Basically you are starting from scratch with this engine.
    That was my plan. While I kinda second guessed this decision, I think it will work out as a very valuable teaching tool. I have always wanted to build a motor myself, this appears to be a good one to start with. This is a better option than learning on the motor that is currently in the car. No stress or pressure here. I'm kinda excited in a weird way that this has worked out like this so far, I'm ready to do this!

    Everything else that has been done to this car for upgrades, I have learned and done myself......why should the motor be any different?

    I hope to have the crank out, get the cylinders, rods and other things measured out tonight.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #771
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    For valves it's likely one or both types were swapped in during head work. Some guys use a dished valve to slightly adjust compression to compensate for shaving heads.
    IMHO....it's likely that the yo-yo that "rebuilt" this motor just grabbed whatever valves were laying around. It would seem to match the rest of the work he did. I don't think there is any other reason for it.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-25-2017 at 12:45 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #772
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Brock sorry you got such a lemon of a motor. That is definitely not good from what I see. I agree, go over this thing with a fine toothed comb to make sure there isnít any other problems. And then just start over again and build it right. I know you got this, just a bummer itís not a better starting point.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  23. #773
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    This brings me to a fleeting thought:

    Which car god did I anger to keep having such profound luck in dealing with all the hack and whack jobs I have dealt with the couple years I have had this car?
    Lord knows the car had it's share of questionable work and jacked up p!ss-poor modifications to it that I have had to fix as outlined in this thread and now this motor follows suit!

    Whomever I irritated to keep having such luck, I sincerely apologize!

    Can I PLEASE have a little break!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #774
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Default My 1984 GT Refurbish/Upgrade Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    This brings me to a fleeting thought:

    Which car god did I anger to keep having such profound luck in dealing with all the hack and whack jobs I have dealt with the couple years I have had this car?
    Lord knows the car had it's share of questionable work and jacked up p!ss-poor modifications to it that I have had to fix as outlined in this thread and now this motor follows suit!

    Whomever I irritated to keep having such luck, I sincerely apologize!

    Can I PLEASE have a little break!
    Hopefully the car gods will feel sorry for you and ease up on you with this motor build. You have had a rough go with this car but I have to admit, you have tackled it all with amazing skill and made the best of every curve thrown your way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  25. #775
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Brock sorry you got such a lemon of a motor. That is definitely not good from what I see. I agree, go over this thing with a fine toothed comb to make sure there isnít any other problems. And then just start over again and build it right. I know you got this, just a bummer itís not a better starting point.
    I'm getting used to this game......buy something ready to run and redo before use.

    Seriously though, while it may seem like a bummer, it's not all bad since it's a motor for a toy.

    Now if this was a motor for a D.D.:
    1) I probably wouldn't have bought it since internal condition was unknown and someone touched it.
    2) If I did,due to cost, I would be livid after it died a few miles down the road.

    While it would have been nice to believe the guy and had actually received a drop in and go ready motor, I didn't and hence the reason we are here. Also another reason I refused to pay his asking price. For the amount I paid, it's still a good platform to start from......assuming the block checks out.

    I'm just glad I got this motor and not some other sucker that bought into the sales pitch, paid asking price and then got hosed soon after install. Not everyone would have the sense or could do what I'm doing now. I've got a ton to learn, but I'm a mechanical guy that should have no problem with this at all. Mics, gauges, dial indicators and what have ya don't scare me a bit.

    At this rate, I may end up with that 347 before next spring.........
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-25-2017 at 12:59 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

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