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  1. #626
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Still have not found Gizmo running around in the wiring yet. The car has not acted weird since that last time, but since I haven't found anything or fixed anything....he will be back.

    Now that things have settled down a bit around the house, I'm hoping to be able to get a move on the rest of the car and make some actual progress on it.

    I haven't completely done nothing to it as I have been driving it to try and work out some operability issues with the FAST EFI. Besides the MAP sensor that failed on me in the first 100 miles, I have not had any other issues with the mechanical side of this system. Where the largest problem has been is in part throttle running. Under "normal"......maybe for a minivan.....driving conditions, she runs and drives like a dream but if I decide to roll heavy into the throttle, like an on ramp to the interstate, the thing bucks and coughs like a bronco and never seems to pull out of it until I let off the throttle and roll light into the throttle. I can also forget about roasting the tires from a stop also as it has about the same effect.

    Since the tech line is not much help, I scour the forums for any relevant information pertaining to this issue. What I found was little to nothing on this issue so it looks like I'm pretty much on my own to figure this one out. The advice usually boiled down to 3 things which were: 1) Send the ECU into FAST for evaluation, 2) Check all sensor values during an abnormal event 3) Check for exhaust leaks. That seems to be the main theme for any issue that arises with this system, and then little help is given past those checks besides find the settings your motor/car like.

    So.......I guess it's time to try and figure this out.

    Like everything else, these checks and tests must be done with a fully warmed up engine so I take her out for a leisurely Sunday stroll and get her nice and warm.
    Get back to the house and begin to run it through the setup wizard again. I chose to not reset the ECU to the base tune as that would wipe out any information it has compiled to date. Maybe I should have, but I didn't at this time. I input the information it asks for regarding motor, fuel pressure idle rpm and so on, recalibrate the TPS and start the car as instructed. While it is running, the IAC needs to be adjusted into its target range window and I find it is pretty far out. I adjust the throttle blades into the target zone, which effectively puts them a bit more open than they were when I started. There is a bit of conflicting information in the forums on this as some guys say to use this feature, other guys say to tune this afterwards using the display on the handheld and set it to around 14 counts at idle. Setting it using the target window, I'm showing counts of 22 or so.

    Once I set that, I verified function of the TPS. The operation is smooth with 0 being closed and 100 being open. It was proportionate to the amount of throttle given and I also verified that the throttle blades were opening fully at full throttle. They were.

    Checked all parameters for A/F ratios and they were as follows:
    Idle - 13.5
    Cruise - 14.0
    WOT - 12.5

    Accel "shot" - 0

    Took her out for a spin and again pretty much fell on its face and bucked hard enough to break stuff in the drivetrain. A quick glance at the handheld showed that the immediate sensors were functioning correctly, but the A/F was all over the map. From the initial buck, it dropped to a 10.?, jumped to a 15.?, then back down to the 13's. All of this happened in milliseconds so the numbers might be off a bit. Judging by the first reading I got, I guessed that I was going rich causing the initial bog and buck. I changed the accel shot down to a -2 and tried again. No real change in the issue.

    I got to thinking about the readings each time this happened and it always spiked lean after the initial rich reading and started wondering if in fact I'm going lean, not rich, and it's a bit delayed to display on the handheld. I bumped the shot up to a +3 and tried again. That made a significant difference but did not fully eliminate the buck. What it did though, is work past the buck quickly and enabled me to stab the gas and take off like a rocket. This was something I was not able to do before so I must be heading in the right direction.

    I came to a stop sign and decided to give her a romp. A quick stutter and she took off and roasted them. By this time it was 9:30 pm and not only did I have go to bed since 4 am comes early, I figured no need in keeping the new neighborhood awake as it is so quiet there, you can hear a flea fart.

    I'm still having a bit of a bucking issue in the transition area of cruise/wot so what I think I need to do is work on the A/F ratios there, instead of the accel shot, and see if maybe making cruise a little richer will help the transition smooth out. 14.0 might be too lean for this car and be too large of a gap from cruise to wot.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #627

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    Sounds like a fancy carburetor Brock. What would happen with a little more of the accel shot? Can it be adjusted up more?

  3. #628
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Sounds like a fancy carburetor Brock. What would happen with a little more of the accel shot? Can it be adjusted up more?
    Essentially it is. It's almost like the Ford CFI setup, just one you can tune easier. I believe I can take it up to an 8 or 9 but I think that might be a bit fat for a, as far as I know, 250,000 mile stock 5.0.

    I believe I'm on the right path but I just need to play around a bit more with the A/F ratios and see if I can work out the lean spots. I hope to have this all figured out soon, so I can be of help to anyone that may go with this system and have the same issue. FAST isn't of much help.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #629
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have definitely found the problem and are on the right track to get that stumble/buck out of the system!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  5. #630
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Well.....I'm out of town on business and I got the call that I'm off the waiting list and officially entered in the KC MCA show next month! Crunch time is upon me to get her finished and ready for the show. Less than a month to be presentable.......challenge accepted!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #631
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Congrats buddy!!!! Make it happen

  7. #632
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Well.....I'm out of town on business and I got the call that I'm off the waiting list and officially entered in the KC MCA show next month! Crunch time is upon me to get her finished and ready for the show. Less than a month to be presentable.......challenge accepted!
    Awesome congrats!! Now get wrenching!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  8. #633
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Updates will be coming if I ever get time to upload pics and if my computer starts cooperating.

    I would like thank Trey for taking some time out of his evening to answer some elementary questions I had, so I didn't have to post them up and publicly look like a dope.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 08-01-2017 at 07:42 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #634
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Might catch some flack for this, but I haven't taken any time to strip or paint any of the old suspension parts while they are out. I have cleaned up most of the gunk and stuff off of them though. Time is not on my side so I will just have to deal with it for now.

    I need to get the front suspension rebuilt as it has become a sketchy mess and definitely not something I want to take on a long road trip. Also since the rear was lowered over the winter, the front sits way high and gives it a horrible stance....like a late model gasser.

    Like everything else in this hobby, the things that are supposed to be easy are a royal PITA and the known PITA's were actually quite easy.

    Got the nose up and started pulling it apart. Disassembly was really quite uneventful, even the stock springs pretty much fell out of their perches.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #635
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I decided to take the route of rebuilding the factory front control arms instead of getting new ones. Time to see if all the horror stories are true in regards to removing and reinstalling bushings and ball joints.

    The ball joints pressed out with minimal work by using a ball joint press. The holes for the ball joints appear to be good and not oblonged. The ball joints were a whole different story as they probably weren't going to make it much longer. They were pretty beat.

    Then came time for the bushings.

    The original idea was to press out the old ones and go back in with new sleeves and poly bushings. That idea was shot after not being able to get the old sleeves pressed out without the fear of crushing the control arm. I was successful when rebuilding the RUCA's.....not on the fronts.

    Time to go to Plan B.

    There seems to be 5,000 ways out there suggesting the best way to remove these from the shells, from burning, to drilling, and so forth. What I did seemed logical at the time and made it a fairly quick and easy process to where each bushing took about 3 minutes from start to out. I took the propane torch and heated only the outside of the shells until the rubber started to make noise, kinda like bubbling, and then push on it with the end of a hammer and it popped out of the shell with minimal mess and effort.

    The first one I might have gotten a bit hot. Campfire marshmallows anyone????

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    The remainders pressed out much easier and no flames and little smoke.

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    Cleaned up the shells with a soft wire wheel on the drill and she is ready for the next phase.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #636
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    On to the rebuild of the arms.

    Pressing the new ball joints in was a little time consuming and it took some creativeness to get them to press in straight and even. I cleaned up the receiving pocket and applied a bit of lube to help the ball joint push in.
    Even using the BJ press proved to be difficult as the shape of the arm does not facilitate a straight push on it. It ended up being a matter of press, readjust the bj press to a different position, hit it again, readjust and then change the battery in the impact to a fresh one and hit it hard to get fully seated. All in all, not a bad job, just time consuming.

    And now the fun part....the poly bushings. There are people that say you need to trim them and some that say you don't need to trim them. One thing that is consistent across the board is use plenty of lube on these things. Anything that touches metal should be well lubed. I have found that this stuff right here is the most readily available, cheapest solution to specialty poly bushing grease.

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    It's thick, PTFE based and safe for rubber/poly. I used it on the rears last year and have yet to hear any noises back there. I found it at Harbor Freight of all places.

    Lubed the shells, bushings and inner sleeves and pushed them in. After trying to fit them back on the car, it was apparent that I was going to need to trim them as they hardly fit in the car. Looking at the sleeve position in comparison to the bushing, it appears that the bushing grew almost 1/8" upon installation into the factory sleeve. This may not be an issue if you use the new sleeves that come with the kit, but it was an issue in my case. Took the arm back out and using a grinder, I cut the inboard side of bushings down until they were a bit undercut of the inner sleeve. Time will tell if this was the right thing to do, but at least they fit in the car now and it appears I should be able to torque them down without interference from the bushing.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #637
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    On to the lowering springs. It was the one thing I was almost positive was going to be fairly easy, and it turned into a circle jerk in a hurry.

    The new springs are supposed to be about a 1.5" drop and all the videos I watched made this look easy peesy lemon squeezy, so I waltzed into this confident and big headed. I got slapped back down to earth quickly.

    Looking at the springs side by side, it gave me hope that it was going to be quick as the stock springs basically fell out of the pockets. If they did, the shorter ones should have plenty of room.

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    Got the new ones all dressed up with brand new poly isolators.

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    With all the bolts loose on the control arm, I go to shove it up in there. It's tight......
    Grab the arm to put some pressure on the spring and BOING....it will not mate up to the pocket. I'm not sure if it is the new isolators or what but after multiple attempts and different ideas to get the spring to sit in the arm pocket while jacking, it was not having it.

    Ended up exhausting a lot of time, patience and profanity so I finally gave up and went on a search for a spring compressor. Wandered around for 2 hours trying to find an internal compressor in town, but most places didn't carry them.
    Finally found one on the other side of town and they had 1, so I snagged it not for sure it was going to work.

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    It's a rather crappy design and it is way to long to be effective on our "short" springs. I modified it to fit in the spring by cutting 3 1/4" off the end of the screw just so I could compress the spring enough and not have the screw hit the upper spring pocket.

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    With that compressor, I was able to get the spring compressed enough to get it installed for a test fit.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #638
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    A trick I use on the BJ is to put them in the freezer overnight and then remove them right as I am ready to press them in. You can heat up the arm too with a propane torch, but generally the freezer trick is all I need for them to press in without issues. The same can be done for the bushings, shells, etc. too. I personally don't use any lube to help install an interference fit such as the bj or the shells as I don't want them able to turn or come out once installed.

    I believe Jack at MM also recommends using the Loctite bearing retaining compound. There is a 680 and a 609. I am not 100% sure which is the better option, although the 609 is listed as press fit assemblies. I would recommend cleaning the ball joint area and the arm and add some of that to both sides to help prevent any rotation or movement of the BJ. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #639
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Now for some rework I believe. The strut and camber/caster plate setup.

    I will start with the strut. I think I messed up when installing this as I do not have a dust boot or cover. Looking at some of the videos on LMR, it appears that they use the old boot and upper rubber bumpstop when installing new struts even with camber/caster plates. I did install a new poly bumpstop on the strut, but I think I might have to investigate the cover some more. Probably need it I'm guessing????

    Now the C/C plates. Following the instructions that came with the plates, they recommend using the spacers on the strut shaft to get the strut rod as close to the hood as possible without hitting it, which I did. Now if you go to LMR's site, which is where I bought these, they recommend something completely different and you have the strut rod close to the C/C plate. I don't remember the exact spacers they call for, but it is pretty precise.

    I might redo this to LMR's specs as IMHO.....the strut shaft this long looks kinda goofy.
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    I'm not 100% sure who's directions to follow here.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #640
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Looking good!

    A trick I use on the BJ is to put them in the freezer overnight and then remove them right as I am ready to press them in. You can heat up the arm too with a propane torch, but generally the freezer trick is all I need for them to press in without issues. The same can be done for the bushings, shells, etc. too. I personally don't use any lube to help install an interference fit such as the bj or the shells as I don't want them able to turn or come out once installed.

    I believe Jack at MM also recommends using the Loctite bearing retaining compound. There is a 680 and a 609. I am not 100% sure which is the better option, although the 609 is listed as press fit assemblies. I would recommend cleaning the ball joint area and the arm and add some of that to both sides to help prevent any rotation or movement of the BJ. Good Luck!
    DOH! Now you tell me!

    Would that locking compound even work as the BJ's have already been pressed in?
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #641
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    DOH! Now you tell me!

    Would that locking compound even work as the BJ's have already been pressed in?
    I believe the locking compound is a seeping type and will work. You just put a coat around the top of the balljoint and it should weep/seep into the space between the two and help hold it in place.

    Sorry, we were talking about bushings on the phone and then you were in a hurry to get back to work! If I would have known you were going to use a lubricant for the BJ's! Ultimately you are probably just fine as any lube will seep out anyway during the install. I just prefer to be safe rather than sorry!

    Which CC plates did you install Maximum Motorsports or LMR's copy of them?
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #642
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I believe the locking compound is a seeping type and will work. You just put a coat around the top of the balljoint and it should weep/seep into the space between the two and help hold it in place.

    Sorry, we were talking about bushings on the phone and then you were in a hurry to get back to work! If I would have known you were going to use a lubricant for the BJ's! Ultimately you are probably just fine as any lube will seep out anyway during the install. I just prefer to be safe rather than sorry!

    Which CC plates did you install Maximum Motorsports or LMR's copy of them?
    Yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that. I was on a mission.

    If it makes you feel any better, only the P/S BJ got a very thin film of lube. It was not globbed on, in fact the BJ had more oil on it than the arm. What I will do is throw some brake cleaner or something in the groove on the top and see if it will flush it out. Then I should be able to feel confident that the retaining fluid will get on clean metal.

    Due to budget constraints, I got LMR's SVE C/C plates last year or early this year when I got the rest of the suspension stuff. No idea if they will be worth much, but I will have to make them work for now. I just found it interesting that there were 2 different recommendations depending on if you go with the supplied instructions vs LMR's instructions for the same plates.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #643
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    No ideas on the LMR CC Plates as I have never used them. I would check with them and see what they say. Understand the budget constraints. I am constantly dealing with it on the 82 GT and the Road Racer right now. Buying a 2008 Mariner for my eldest didn't help either and now 2 daughters in college will only make things worse!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #644
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    No ideas on the LMR CC Plates as I have never used them. I would check with them and see what they say. Understand the budget constraints. I am constantly dealing with it on the 82 GT and the Road Racer right now. Buying a 2008 Mariner for my eldest didn't help either and now 2 daughters in college will only make things worse!
    Know the feeling...kinda. Our oldest boy starts college on August 17th and our youngest is a sophomore in H.S., so it won't be long for him. He will be turning 15 here in a couple days, so it is almost time to add another car to the stable for him. The hits keep on coming!

    Hopefully they do well and remember mom and dad when they get older.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #645
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Ok, Had to go back and redo some things in regards to the struts. I mentioned that I didn't install the factory dust covers on the new struts and also I questioned the position of the bushings on the strut rods to C/C plates.

    After contacting LMR on the difference between what is written on their instructions supplied with the C/C plates and their install tutorial on the site, they told me that either way would work fine but they usually recommend the install that they made the video for. Fair enough.

    Also after researching the dust covers, there are 10,000 opinions on whether or not you really need them. The fight for having them seemed logical as there was a reason they were on there from the factory. While this isn't a daily driven vehicle, the extra protection they provide the strut rods can't hurt any. Plus IMHO, it looks better with them installed.

    I removed the struts....again....and reinstalled the dust covers and changed the spacers for the C/C plates to what LMR recommended. Finished up the tie rods and assorted steering components and quit for the night. All I should have to do today is install the brakes, rotors/hubs, swaybar links and put the wheels back on. Also need to verify torque on the critical parts, tighten the control arm bolts a bit more and do a quick garage alignment so I can take it for a slow ride around the neighborhood to help settle the front suspension before torquing down the control arms.

    Then it will be time for fluid changes, get a small exhaust leak fixed, tires with an actual shop alignment and try to do a decent job on painting the front bumper and extensions.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #646
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Good job Brock. I used the LMR SVE C/C plates also. I did not install the dust covers as mine would not clear the plates no matter what combo I used spacer wise. I only have about 40 miles since they were installed but they are fine and my alignment guy was impressed with how nice they were. Hope this helps ease any doubts you may have.


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    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
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  22. #647
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Good job Brock. I used the LMR SVE C/C plates also. I did not install the dust covers as mine would not clear the plates no matter what combo I used spacer wise. I only have about 40 miles since they were installed but they are fine and my alignment guy was impressed with how nice they were. Hope this helps ease any doubts you may have.


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    That helps buddy. That's next on the agenda....right after the 2x4 alignment. I got some toe issues.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  23. #648
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I got the front end finished up last night and set her back on the ground. Definitely needs an alignment before I go much of anywhere with it, but I might try and take it around the block once or twice just to hit some bumps so I can torque down the control arms. I'm hoping that with the control arms torqued down and a good alignment, it will cure the issue I still have with the tires rubbing the front and rear wheel wells just like I had before when turning. It still seems pretty much the same and the issue is always worse in reverse.

    Either way, I think it looks pretty good right now and it's amazing how much an 1 1/2" drop makes. I found out the hard way when I couldn't get the jack out from under the k member.

    Here are some crappy pics from last night......better pics will be coming.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #649
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Now let's see what I can rip off of the car before I learn it's lower. Now time to try and get the front bumper to match the rest of the car.

    T-Minus 21 days and counting........
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 08-03-2017 at 08:53 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #650
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    Less altitude = better attitude!!!

    Just tossing this out there... When I did my front end stuff at home I did the same as you are planning as far as driving it around a bit then tightening the a arms after. No issues, but I did ask the alignment tech to torque them down while he was under there. Tossed him a ten spot and it was all good.
    '85 GT

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