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  1. #551
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Another day....another disappointment.

    First, lets talk about what went right.

    Had to secure one section of the fuel line back by the fuel filter. Piece of cake.
    Now it is time to put some gas in her and check the fuel system for leaks. I put 2 gallons of gas in it, hooked the battery up and used a jumper wire across the fuel pump relay base to start the pump. Click, whine, gurgle and whoosh.....I have fuel movement! Checked under car and so far, so good. No leaks or fuel smell. Time to check in the engine bay and see whats going on up there. Sweet! No leaks yet so now is the time to set the fuel pressure. Looked at the gauge and I'm currently at 10 psi. Start adjusting the regulator up to 43 psi slowly and checking for leaks along the way. So far, so good, nothing leaks and the fuel pressure is set where FAST recommends it to be.
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    Now that the fuel system checks out, gas gauge reads good also, it is time to get the mufflers under it and also get power to the CPU. Since I wasn't sure about the whole key on/cranking power for the trigger wire, I did what I felt would work. I tied a "toggle" switch into the trigger wire so I could get power. I will go back and revisit this area at a later date, referencing the link in the post above, but for now I kind of like this toggle setup as it will also work as a secondary anti theft device. Can't start the car if the CPU doesn't have power.

    FAST makes the initial setup of the system fairly easy, get power to the CPU, plug in the handheld to both the CPU and a power source (cigar lighter) and answer a few questions about your engine, setup and calibrate the throttle sensor at both no/full throttle and the quick setup is done. Once you get past that, it will ask for you to start the car and let it do its thing while the CPU makes some adjustments.

    Now for the disappointment in an awesomely epic way.

    Once the CPU says start car, I intended on starting the car. Hit the key and crank, crank, crank, crank but no cough, sputter, bang or vroom.
    In fact, I never heard the injectors pulse or fuel pump kick on.
    Time to do some research.
    One thing I learned really quick is FAST's troubleshooting guide is almost useless and their tech support is pretty much in forum form. Not that it is a bad thing sometimes, but it takes a while to get pertinent information.
    Digging around the information, I found tidbits that I can check.
    The first thing is the pulsing of the injectors that is supposed to happen at key on. I did not get that upon first attempt but why? Seems that function does not happen until the CPU sees a first start and run to complete the setup. So in other words, I will not see that function until the car starts and runs for the first time.
    Next up is the fuel pump not priming or running. Well it seems that like the injector pulse, the fuel pump prime function also will not happen until after the first run cycle, but it should still run while cranking. It's not and why? Again with hit and miss information, it appears that the fuel pump and also injectors are controlled by an RPM signal to the CPU so it only runs while the engine is running. OK.....that makes perfect sense to me.

    Now I have a direction to go. Lets try this again. The handheld displays live data, so I select the screen that shows RPM info and try to start the car again. Looking at both the handheld and the factory tach during cranking, there is no RPM signal. WTH!

    Everything electrical I have done to this car has checked out and the one thing I hoped would be trouble free (ignition) has failed on me. The biggest question is what is failed. My ignition system knowledge is a bit weak but I'm going to test what I do know and what I can do by myself with no help, which isn't much on both accounts.
    Checked the power going to the coil. I have 6.2 v on the positive side during key on and 12.6 v during crank. That appears good as it is switching between full and reduced run power.
    I know that the pickup coil sends the signal to the module and that is what controls the cycle for the - side of the coil to fire. Digging through the EVTM, it mentions the the resistance between the orange and purple leads should be 400 - 1000 ohms. Checked resistance and it showed on the meter to be 3.45 That's odd. I happen to still have the old pickup coil, with the brittle wiring, laying around so I knew it worked and would OHM it. Low and behold, it is reading 652.
    I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but I'm guessing that the new pickup coil from Rock Auto is no good with that low reading. I wouldn't think that I did something to cause it, but I never know.

    Looks like I will swing by the McParts store after work and they are supposed to have a BWD coil in stock. I will take the meter with me and test its resistance before I purchase it. If it is over 400, then I should be good to go and hopefully get the car fired tonight, unless something else is severely wrong.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #552

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    Jeez Brock, good detective work. I hope that solves the starting issue for you.

  3. #553
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Jeez Brock, good detective work. I hope that solves the starting issue for you.
    I'm not a master mechanic by any means, but I can investigate and follow directions.....which I'm overly anal about. Just ask the wife. Working in the field I do and surrounded by hazardous chemicals tends to make a guy that way.

    Update! Swung by the McParts store and grabbed the BWD pickup coil. Forgot the meter and they didn't have one to test it so I took a leap of faith and got it anyways. At least I could return it to the one by the house if it didn't work. Got it to the house and tested it.
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    Judging by what the book tells me, this one is good.

    Here is the reading on the "old" brand new one I got from Rock Auto.
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    Guess that is not a good reading and the thing is, I'm not sure it is worth returning as it was not that expensive. Might just eat the cost.

    With the pickup coil changed, time to try and fire this thing again.

    Crank, crank, crank........
    NADA.....


    Well it seems that in all of my latest testing of the pickup coil, I forgot to hook up the connector down by the ignition module that heads to the pickup coil. My bad....rookie mistake.

    Plugged it in, double checked everything I touched and tried again.

    Crank, crank, crank........
    NADA.....


    This time at least I had a RPM signal on both the factory tach and the handheld. Both were showing about 350 while cranking. Still no fuel pump though, even though the injectors were clicking this time.
    I decided to jump the pump relay to force on the fuel pump to see if it was even going to run period. Then I could research the fuel pump trigger later.

    Jumped the relay, pump comes on, fuel pressure builds and I hit the key again.
    Crank, crank........
    VROOOOM....thump, thump, thump in the sweet sound of 8 cylinders ! IT'S ALIVE!

    It runs for a bit at high idle and quickly settles into a nice smooth 750 rpm idle. Checked the timing and it was at 12 degrees BTDC. I slowly bumped it up until I got some stutter and backed it off a few degrees. Right now it appears to be fairly healthy sounding at 15-16 degrees. I will leave it there for the time being till I can check the total advance and get some run/drive testing time on it
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-22-2017 at 12:11 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #554
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Now one thing I instantly noticed after startup is how the exhaust smells. Mind you the first startup happened on the ramps in the garage (wife wasn't home ) and it was tolerable. It obviously had a faint smell, but it was nothing like the instant eye burning experience with the carb that was on it. It actually smelled kinda good.

    Checked the exhaust for leaks, especially around the header collector flanges where it was hard to seal last time and they appear to be well sealed this time. No puff puff puff found. Good because everything I have read with this system is that it is extremely touchy to upstream leaks.

    Let her run for a bit and then I decided I better move it out of the garage and let her get up to temp. Took it off the ramps, fired it up and drove her out into the sunlight for the first time since October. Man.....is she filthy and needs a good cleaning.

    Let her run for about 30 minutes. Checking her vital signs. Coolant temp steady at 178f, Oil pressure steady at 30-35 psi, voltage steady at 13.5v, RPM steady at 750. Looks pretty normal to me.

    Now to try something. In the past, if I got the car warm and then shut it off, it was a pain to start back up as it seemed like it was vapor locking. Shut the car off and let it set for about 5 minutes and hit the key again. Instant start without the lugging like in the past. I have a feeling the carb was boiling fuel in the bowls and causing the issue.

    After all of this, I still have to figure out why I'm not getting a trigger to the fuel pump relay. Did a little more research and BOOM....I got slapped with a severe dose of reality. I have the trigger wired wrong. If I had looked at the schematic a little closer, it was apparent that the trigger from the CPU is a ground, not a hot. It's kinda hard to pull in a coil when both sides of it are grounded.

    Removed the ground to the chassis and tied the coil into the fuel pump supply and tried it again. Turn the key on....injectors pulse and the fuel pump now triggers and primes like intended.

    Hopefully I can move on to other areas now. This wiring has kicked my behind.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #555

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    Wow, that is terrific progress. I know it may not seem like it to you, but it seems to me like this has gone pretty quickly given the size and complexity of what all is involved. Also, each car is different and OBVIOUSLY you are quite capable but I would want to check in to 13.5 volts. The lowest I would think is acceptable is closer to 14. I am sure there is an official number and maybe anything over 12V is fine, I don't know. If you start running lights, heater and stereo, I wonder how well 13.5 will keep up. I am embarrassed to say I have a couple Foxes () and I make a habit to check them before taking them out. I check them so I don't have a surprise breakdown that could have easily been prevented. They range between 14.2 and 14.8V. So that's just what I am used to seeing. Anyway, great job and again, congratulations!
    Last edited by homer302; 03-22-2017 at 09:44 AM.

  6. #556
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Wow, that is terrific progress. I know it may not seem like it to you, but it seems to me like this has gone pretty quickly given the size and complexity of what all is involved. Also, each car is different and OBVIOUSLY you are quite capable but I would want to check in to 13.5 volts. The lowest I would think is acceptable is @14.2. I am sure there is an official number and maybe anything over 12V is fine, I don't know. If you start running lights, heater and stereo, I wonder how well 13.5 will keep up. I am embarrassed to say I have a couple Foxes () and I make a habit to check them before taking them out. I check them so I don't have a surprise breakdown that could have easily been prevented. They range between 14.2 and 14.8V. So that's just what I am used to seeing. Anyway, great job and again, congratulations!
    Thanks Homer, I appreciate that. Looking at the car everyday it seems like an eternity to me, especially since it was parked in October. I'm just happy that it finally runs again and besides the minor issues, both with new parts and my own stupidity, and time constraints it actually went fairly smooth.

    Thanks for bringing up the voltage. It may have actually been around 14.5 v while running and 13.5 v when off but I was focused on a few things all at once. I will double check and verify both of those tonight so I can take care of any issues before heading down the street with it. I will also do an amp draw with all accessories on and the car running to see whats going on there. I need to know this just to make sure the old alternator can keep up with the addition of EFI. I'm sure it will as I don't have A/C but I need to know.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-22-2017 at 09:50 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #557
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Congrats Brock, that is awesome progress and a major step towards getting it back on the road. It is going to be like a whole new car this season!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  8. #558

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    Great progress, Brock!

    Relays are initially a bit confusing to ensure what connects to what. I had a crash course myself with them with the fuel pump and ignition here. Their theory and function is great though, minimizing load on the vehicle's circuits, especially on our older cars where some of the aging electrical components and harnesses weren't exactly originally designed with overkill.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang
    1974 Pontiac LeMans

  9. #559
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    To take a day of from the mundane, I decided I would get the back bumper on and the taillights in. This is where I should have stopped, changed courses and went back to the mundane.

    I did not.....

    Since I did the body work on the rear quarter, I figured I probably should put a little paint on the areas behind the taillight that were primered so they were sealed. Believe me when I say I have yet to find a perfect color match even with the 1,000,000,000 point color spectrometer thing that the advanced paint shops use. I threw caution, well more common sense, to the wind, let the paint fly and forgot where to stop.

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    Yup.......it's too light. Oh well, at least it looks better than having a big primer spot in there.

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    The only real way to fix this and have it match is to repaint the whole car. This color is a pain.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #560

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    Yes, much better. I have never painted a thing but I have a blue that is the same. Impossible to match and I let professionals try. The only thing I think a painter might try there is to pull that new color above the molding forward all the way to the door jamb so the actual gap between the quarter and door separates the two and pull it up the quarter all the way to the crown where the vertical quarter rolls over to the horizontal roof. It's hard to see the roof and quarter at the same time (a lot harder than it is to see the blend right in the middle of the quarter at least) and the gap will help too. I think so anyway....LOL. Don't listen to me, get advice from someone who knows what they are doing.
    Last edited by homer302; 03-23-2017 at 09:29 AM.

  11. #561
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Yes, much better. I have never painted a thing but I have a blue that is the same. Impossible to match and I let professionals try. The only thing I think a painter might try there is to pull that new color above the molding forward all the way to the door jamb so the actual gap between the quarter and door separates the two and pull it up the quarter all the way to the crown where the vertical quarter rolls over to the horizontal roof. It's hard to see the roof and quarter at the same time (a lot harder than it is to see the blend right in the middle of the quarter at least) and the gap will help too. I think so anyway....LOL. Don't listen to me, get advice from someone who knows what they are doing.
    Yeah, the advice you gave is the same as what I got from the likes of Joe and Trey.

    I may still go that route as I have a little work to finish on the roof around the sunroof. That repair will probably involve painting the whole roof and once I do that I will almost have a half and half car. Oh where to stop......

    I might have a full repaint sooner than I planned, just have to wait until after April 20th when we move into the new house. For now, I might be able to deal with it as I know it is just a temporary mismatch.

    I guess at least all of my panels are not different colors.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-23-2017 at 10:02 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #562

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    Different shades is definitely better than different colors. I hope to see this one in person one day. And I still can't wait to hear how you end up liking the EFI once you put some miles on it.

  13. #563
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Different shades is definitely better than different colors. I hope to see this one in person one day. And I still can't wait to hear how you end up liking the EFI once you put some miles on it.
    I'm really shooting to drive it out to Foxtober Fest this year. At least that's my main goal at this time. I figure it will be a good chance to meet some of the members out on that side of the country, and a good test of this EFI systems reliability.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  14. #564

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    Congratulations on getting it running Brock. Woohoo!

    There are very few color's that I don't have to tint at work, had your paint matched would have amazed me.

    I would just wait till you get your roof fixed before I would worry about the mismatch. At least it's protected from the elements now. Besides, that's not terrible for now.

  15. #565
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Congratulations on getting it running Brock. Woohoo!

    There are very few color's that I don't have to tint at work, had your paint matched would have amazed me.

    I would just wait till you get your roof fixed before I would worry about the mismatch. At least it's protected from the elements now. Besides, that's not terrible for now.
    That's kind of what I was thinking Dave. I can deal with the mismatch better than the grey. I have had a hell of a time getting this paint to match. One time too light, one time too dark even with the multiple scans of the paint on the car. I think it's just one of those odd colors to match. I know one thing for sure. When I get ready for the repaint, I'm going to request the full spectrum data sheet on the paint going on, so hopefully future touch ups should be extremely close.

    Should be able to get it out of the garage into the sunlight here in a couple hours. That will tell the true story on how close or far off it really is.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-23-2017 at 01:52 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #566
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Should be able to get it out of the garage into the sunlight here in a couple hours. That will tell the true story on how close or far off it really is.
    It's not perfect, but it's not hideous either.

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    I think if I smooth out the leading edge a bit, it will be acceptable. Another point that was brought up is once the taillights, bumper and side molding is put back on, it will not be seen as quick. Right now it is a major focal point due to it not looking complete like the rest of the car.

    I can live with it for now. It's only temporary.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-24-2017 at 08:18 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #567
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Looks fine to me. Much better than primer for sure!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  18. #568

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    Btw, having dealt with those scanners for years now. They don't formulate a color, they just try to match your color to the closest match of formulas in their database. It will be wonderful if we could ever get a scanner with the power to formulate based on the toners we have.

  19. #569
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Btw, having dealt with those scanners for years now. They don't formulate a color, they just try to match your color to the closest match of formulas in their database. It will be wonderful if we could ever get a scanner with the power to formulate based on the toners we have.
    Ah ha! That could be why it hasn't been a match yet. Here I thought it would give a detailed scan and populate a custom color. Thanks for the insight on how that works.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-25-2017 at 10:36 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #570
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Not too much picture worthy stuff going on, just some little odds and ends to get her back together.

    I got the rear bumper and tail lights put back on and decided I might as well run her up the street for a full tank of petrol. Being where the rear control arms are still loose to allow the rear suspension to help settle before final torquing, it was a slow ride.

    A few observations from the trip:

    1) I'm actually surprised on how well the rear of the car rides, especially with the addition of the SR lowering springs and Monroe OE Spectrum (Sensatrac replacement) shocks. While there is a bit more road feel with them, and the effect might change when the fronts are done, it is far from kidney busting. I took a gamble with this combo, based on 100's of different reviews on different combos, and so far most of the reviews seem founded for this set up. At this point I can't see the difference in the rear stance between the stock springs and the lowering springs but hopefully it settles down some more as I get more miles on it. Top is stock, bottom has the rear lowering springs in. Time will tell.
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    2) It is odd to hear the faint whine of the fuel pump and clicking of the injectors. After running a mechanical pump and carb on this car, the new noises are different.

    3) The FAST EFI system will be a longer term question and it's hard to make a judgement on it this early in the game. According to all of the things I have read on it, it will take it awhile to learn, adapt and smooth the operation out. Some of these take 30-100 miles or more to really get a good tune learned. My observation from the trip is right now she is a bit cranky. It idles great but there is a bit of a hesitation on quick movements of the throttle, almost like it is missing the accel shot or not getting enough. When it does catch, it hits hard. There is a bit of a stumble going from load to no load like rolling up to a stop sign. While it doesn't die, she definitely drops a couple hundred RPM for a quick second and then settles out. Again, this is not a true test of the system as obviously with the rear suspension loose, I really can't drive it and keep the rear end under the car.

    4) Not sure if it is the changes I've made to get the distributor working properly, readjusting the timing, the new EFI system or all the above, but there is a huge difference in seat of the pants feel with the available power on tap. Even with cautious modulation of the throttle. It feels like a whole different car already.

    5) After owning this car a couple years now, it was neat to look down at the speedometer/odometer and see it moving. It has never worked since I've had it. In fact I didn't even look at it until I was getting ready to pull into the driveway. This year will be interesting to see how many miles I put on her. I've got 3 miles on her already this season.
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    6) I forgot how much I miss driving this car. Even with the thing gutted, tools flying around and rattling on bare metal, it brings a smile instantly to my face. My truck can't do that.

    I hope to make a good stab at getting it mostly put back together this weekend, so I can give it a good drive and see what it does here soon.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-25-2017 at 01:26 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #571
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Congrats Brock!! That is all good news. The EFI will probably take a few good shake down runs to learn a fuel curve. I have found that the best thing for relearn is this, drive it a few miles at low speeds 25-35 mph with a couple stop and go in there. Then get it out to where you can hold a steady 45 mph for a few miles ( prefer 4 or more miles) then come to a nice long stop ( at least 15 seconds or more). Then back up to 45-55 mph for a good steady 10-20 minutes. Then turn around and head back to the starting point. Let it sit and cool down for at least 6-8 hrs then do it again. After that second run is done and you turn around to head back home, now give it a couple 3/4 throttle bursts and then a few full throttle bursts. Start from like a 25 mph roll and slowly work your way to full throttle. Then lastly a 5-10 mph roll and heavy acceleration to 3/4 or full throttle. Then let it sit again. This seems to bring about the best results and the fastest PCM learning curve.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

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    Congrats Brock! Glad to see this project really coming together for you! I know you have been working your butt off on it and it shows!

    The paint match is off, but honestly most won't notice it without looking for it. So don't worry about it for now. Drive the dang tires off the car and enjoy the heck out of it. That will help tune your EFI and work out all the bugs!

    I hope to back home sometime this year and get back to work on my Foxes! The last 2 months have been rough not even being able to touch or see them! Keep up the good work and keep updating your thread since some of us have no ability to update their own!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 03-25-2017 at 04:14 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  23. #573
    FEP Power Member bluesfannoz's Avatar
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    Great work Brock! Glad to hear your efforts are paying off!
    Steve
    "Taillights in Your Face Jack? You've just been Dominated!"

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    Current Stangs: 85 Black T-Top Dominator GT # Link to Restoration Thread #
    Previously owned:
    85 Dominator GT RIP 1995, 85 Predator GT, 83 Dominator GT, 82 Mustang GT

  24. #574
    FEP Super Member tORMENtOR's Avatar
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    Nice work Brock, you are moving along quickly.
    Current Stangs+
    84Gt (9W) T-top 347EFI
    http://www.foureyedpride.com/content...984-Mustang-GT
    84Gt(1E) Turbo
    http://www.foureyedpride.com/content...e-of-the-Month
    94 Lightning #3531

  25. #575

    Default

    Really nice Brock. I can't wait to try the efi conversion myself one day. From what I've heard, it's just a matter of driving it to get your base. Then if you wish to really smooth it out there's all of those tables you can adjust.

    Congratulations on your success buddy.

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