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  1. #476
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Haven't felt like doing much this past week but I have gotten some odds and ends done, which is a plus as I'm still moving one step closer.

    One thing that has been given a lot of thought lately is the +12v trigger for the new EFI computer. What I do know is it needs a trigger that is active in both run and start but I have hit road blocks on how to achieve this. I honestly don't know what to tie together to make this happen but with everything that is on my mind here lately, I'm sure I'm overlooking the obvious.

    This has inadvertently caused my mind to wander and explore other options. One thing I have thought about, and honestly I'm beginning to think this will actually turn out to be a bonus, is creating a " hidden kill switch" utilizing constant battery voltage and just having to remember to turn it on and off when not in use. It might actually be handy as a theft deterrent as they will never get the car started with it off.

    I guess I dunno what to do here.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #477
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Wiring is looking good. Sorry to hear about life causing some money and time issues. Hope all is ok. Wish you the best with that as I know how often life throws a wrench into our best laid out plans.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Life is what happens to you while you are waiting for your plans to work out.

    Thanks guys. It will work out in the end but it was just a bit of a surprise, letdown and a startling setback. I've been through worse and bounced back fairly quick, so I only see this as a temporary issue. Life's too short to be p!ssed off and down and out for too long. I'll work my tail off, as I have always done, and be back in the game and better than ever in no time.

    Mama named me right.......
    Brock
    noun \ˈbräk\

    Definition:
    European badger

    Origin and Etymology:
    Middle English, from Old English broc, of Celt origin; akin to Welsh broch badger
    First Known Use: before 12th century

    I'm coming out of this hole fangs bared and with a vengeance now.....
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 02-13-2017 at 02:57 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #478
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    There's plenty of things in the fuse box or in the wiring harness that are hot in start and run. A meter or test light will tell you. In the next week or 2 I will be ripping out the Holley Commander 950 ecu and swapping to a HP ecu. I can tell you exactly where I hooked my switched wire then, since I can't find my notes when I put it in.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  4. #479
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    There's plenty of things in the fuse box or in the wiring harness that are hot in start and run. A meter or test light will tell you. In the next week or 2 I will be ripping out the Holley Commander 950 ecu and swapping to a HP ecu. I can tell you exactly where I hooked my switched wire then, since I can't find my notes when I put it in.
    Thanks! That would be a big help, unless I find the solution before then. Like I said, I'm sure I'm just overlooking the obvious.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #480
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Continuing on. I believe I finally got the wiring I don't need out of the harnesses so it's time to make the repairs and get it ready for reinstall. While I am in clean up mode, I decided now is the time to check all of the remaining factory splices and recover them as the 30 year old friction tape was getting pretty gooey and easily peeled off. On all of the factory splices, there was no barrier between the wire and the outside world besides the thin layer of friction tape. I decided to go over kill. Don't care to have electrical gremlins due to negligence down the road.

    Peeled off the old friction tape and inspected the quality of the splices. Everything looked good and the joints were still tight.
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    Covered the splices with 3M 130C linerless rubber tape. This stuff is a self adhesive splice tape that we use in high voltage systems in the industrial world. Works like a champ and never comes apart or fails.
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    For an added layer of abrasion resistance, I then covered it in 3M 1755 friction tape.
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    While all of this adds up to a bit thicker covered joint, I should not have to worry about the integrity of these areas in the future.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #481
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    One thing about doing all of this unplanned work is finding potential issues before they find me later. There were numerous issues that needed corrected and I think I might have gotten lucky and dodged a bullet.

    The ignition switch......
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    I'm almost certain that this switch should not have the movement between the parts that this one does. It moves pretty significantly when you squeeze both halves together. Lucky for me, I happen to have a brand new one on the shelf so that will be going in to replace this one.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #482

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    I haven't had to mess with the wiring on my mustangs too much yet but I am amazed at how brittle and stuck many of the connectors are on my 88 f150. I have the engine out now and I'm about to start going through that harness with a fine tooth comb, sliming down anything I don't need anymore, etc. Anywhere that I can, I'll be replacing connectors with the Delphi weatherpack type like someone mentioned earlier, one thing GM definitely got right.

  8. #483
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    It's good you are getting all this found and repaired now rather than during car show season. Know how frustrating it is when you have plans to take the car out and it breaks down.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  9. #484
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Since it has been a nice break in the weather and been in the mid 60's to mid 70's the past couple days with another week forecasted in the 60's, garage time is a must and been enjoyable.

    With the main engine harness fixed up, I ohmed out all of the wires. Ohm test passed so I feel confident that this area will not give me any issues and I got the harness wrapped up and installed in the engine bay. I wrapped the whole harness in friction tape, made my takeouts for the accessories in the engine bay and left as little exposed wiring possible. I will also be putting everything possible in a loom.
    Probably not the cleanest install ever seen by man, but I thought it came out decent with a minimal hack job look to it. I'm going to try and find a little nicer way of connecting the crossover harness to the firewall, but for now the zipties will work. I also decided to take the harnesses on the passenger side and route them on the inside of the strut tower instead of over the top like it was previously. I think it has a cleaner appearance and it will help come time to install the camber/caster plates and making adjustments.

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    A previous shot just to show what it looked like before.
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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 02-18-2017 at 11:23 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #485

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    Beautiful job Brock. That really looks nice! You give me hope for my engine bay.

  11. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
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    Looking good Brock! That is quite the under taking! One I've never had to attempt not would really want to!

    For concours correctness, isn't the harness supposed to go over the passenger shock tower?
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  12. #487
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Beautiful job Brock. That really looks nice! You give me hope for my engine bay.
    It's not perfect and I still have a few wires for the RPM module on the firewall that I need to tuck in the loom but I think it looks better. Hard to believe there were so many unused wires in mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Looking good Brock! That is quite the under taking! One I've never had to attempt not would really want to!

    For concours correctness, isn't the harness supposed to go over the passenger shock tower?
    I'm more concerned about the dash harness as that was the royal PITA. For concours correctness, you are correct. I think I can stand to get docked a couple points.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #488
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Needed to change the pickup coil in the distributor as the wiring going in was crumbling also. Once I got it apart, it was apparent that there were more issues lurking on the inside.

    The wiring was toast inside and out.
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    Then comes the pickup coil/vacuum advance assembly. There was no way possible that vacuum advance worked because the pickup coil was seized onto the backing plate. I had to soak it for quite awhile in order to get it to move and come off the plate.
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    The mechanical advance also seems to be an issue as it is sticky and does not move freely at all. I'm guessing it needs a good cleaning and lubrication but it was also brought to my attention that there may be WAY too much mechanical advance in this. Not sure how I can correct that.
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    With all the issues I have found so far, it's a wonder this car fired and ran as decent as it did. I'm wondering how it will respond once everything is fixed to how it should be and wires are not potentially arcing everywhere.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  14. #489
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Man buddy great job!!! comin along nicely!!!!! man if it ran decent before it should run like a beast now!!

  15. #490
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    Man buddy great job!!! comin along nicely!!!!! man if it ran decent before it should run like a beast now!!
    I sure hope so. If anything it should make it predictable. I think I now know why this car seemed to have a mind of it's own. Sometimes it ran great, sometimes it seemed a bit off.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #491

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    Great catches, my friend, and it should be a whole different animal after the distributor's all sorted.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  17. #492

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    Jeez Brock, you have my teeth chattering over what i'll find.

    Great work brother.

  18. #493
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Brock, great work!! Wiring harness looks good. Good find on all the distributor woes too! As far as the mechanical advance, how do you know it has too much? Best thing to do is put it together and check w a timing light to see how much advance it actually has. You can change out the springs to change how fast or slow it comes in and they used to make weight kits for these. Not sure if they do anymore but you can always pirate some old junkyard distributors ( or members) for weights and grind them lighter using a kitchen scale to weigh them. Then just swap them out and see what happens. Used to do this all the time back in the 80s and 90s. A little trick my dad taught me. They still make spring kits for the MSD distributors and GM hei and Chrysler factory distributors. So if they don't make them for Fords, one of those sets should work. Just have to compare and see which ones are same length. They may all be the same, kinda thing they are, but not 100% on that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  19. #494
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Here's the info on the advance plate and the width of the slot. You could check junkyards for anything with a duraspark..I think the guts of a 5.0 and 460 duraspark distributor are the same. Or check out other websites and pickup a bad distributor cheap. You just want the advance plate.

    http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ns_page-2.html
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  20. #495
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Creativity time!

    Utilizing some new found knowledge in this thread, http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...utor-Questions, I'm going to run an experiment.

    Where it was brought to my attention that the mechanical advance could potentially be 32 degrees, if everything worked as intended, on top of the initial timing of 12 degrees, that could put me at 44 degrees of total advance which more than likely could be too much. With everything I have found and fixed in this distributor to correct the operation of it, the initial timing will have to be completely reset anyways so I was left with an empty slate for experimentation.

    First call of order was to get the mechanical advance area cleaned up and moving freely. I used rags, q-tips and contact cleaner to get rid of all of the gunk in the area. Once that was done, I added some high temp synthetic grease to the mechanical advance assembly. Everything slides freely and smooth now.
    Then it was time to close the "window" in the 16L side of the advance arm. This took a little thought on my end as how I wanted to do this so I took a shot at trying something different. I decided I would build up the back side of the window as the initial timing needs to be redone anyways. I used some high temp, high strength metal putty for this modification. I used a coarse file on the arm to give the putty something to mechanically bite onto then cleaned it with brake cleaner, so hopefully this mod will be stout.

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    After it set up for 24 hours, I ground the excess off and formed it to the lines of the arm.

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    Test fit, measurements and operation are all pretty dang good so far.

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    I did it this way for a reason and that reason is adjustability. I am able to easily add some extra timing in it after getting it back up and running if need be. Currently I have it ground out for a conservative 10 degrees (20 total) of mechanical advance. After I find out how it's going to react, I can shave a little more off if need be and bump the timing up.

    Lubed everything up and reassembled the distributor. Checked operation of the vacuum advance and it holds vacuum and advances the pickup now.

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    Can't wait to see the final results.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 02-20-2017 at 10:57 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #496
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Good plan. Anxious to see how it works. I was always told by all the older motor heads that small block chevys and Fords like to run best with a total of 34-36 degrees of advance by 2200-2500 rpm. I have always shot for 36 total by 2400 rpm and have always had excellent results.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  22. #497
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Good plan. Anxious to see how it works. I was always told by all the older motor heads that small block chevys and Fords like to run best with a total of 34-36 degrees of advance by 2200-2500 rpm. I have always shot for 36 total by 2400 rpm and have always had excellent results.
    I do have a recurve kit ordered so as I get a bit further into it, I can play around with the advance curve.
    Right now it is just a test and experiment to get it back up and running. Once I find the sweet spot, I will do something more permanent with the advance arm.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  23. #498
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Right now it is just a test and experiment to get it back up and running. Once I find the sweet spot, I will do something more permanent with the advance arm.
    AHHH CRAP! I just realized I sound like one of those P.O.s that we all complain about with the WTF mods.

    Good thing I'm not selling it. If I do, I'm going to make sure they get the link to this thread so they can be forewarned what to expect with this car.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #499
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Hey if it works, it's not a WTF mod. Haha


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  25. #500

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    Very nice work, Brock
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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