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  1. #301
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Good info and that looks like the best way to go honestly. Thanks Joe!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  2. #302
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I have thought long and hard on how I want to approach the paint on this repair. I was originally just going to spraybomb it and work with it, as I don't have the equipment to do it right. I decided this afternoon that with the work I have put into the quarter, that I would hate to have to have a substandard paint job on it. I'm going to save some money and buy the proper equipment. I think I have a good lead on an air compressor that is up to the job and if so, all I need is the guns. I have all winter and I feel this car deserves it. I will work on other areas until I aquire these tools.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  3. #303

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    Hey, it's never to late to learn a new skill! That being said, even buying used equipment by the time you purchase all the supplies I would imagine you could have someone local spray and blend that quicker, cheaper and easier. That is just my thoughts. Like I said, having the skill to do it yourself is invaluable, I just mean for this one repair is all.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  4. #304
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Hey, it's never to late to learn a new skill! That being said, even buying used equipment by the time you purchase all the supplies I would imagine you could have someone local spray and blend that quicker, cheaper and easier. That is just my thoughts. Like I said, having the skill to do it yourself is invaluable, I just mean for this one repair is all.
    I agree 100% with you Homer and logically that would be the way to go....but I'm not the most logical sometimes. My thinking behind the DYI is not only do I have this repair to do, I also have a roof, 84 1/2 nose and fender extensions to repair and repaint. By the time I add those parts to the equation, I will be looking at a fairly large paint cost to have it done by a shop. I might still inquire about outsourcing the paint after bodywork is done but I'm not sure it will be cost effective.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  5. #305
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    For the time being, I'm moving to another area that needs attention. The roof, especially around the sunroof has areas that appear to be an issue. When I bought this car almost 1.5 years ago, I knew for a fact that the area at the rear p/s corner of the sunroof had a rust issue and also a few rust bubbles were present in the paint along the front edge of the sunroof. To what extent the damage had grown to was unknown.

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    After some sanding, here's what I have.

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    Doesn't look to be horrible and fairly isolated. The only spot that has a hole is in the rear p/s corner, which I already knew about.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #306
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    One thing that is a concern and I'm not sure how far I should go with it, is the amount of bondo. The area at the rear p/s of the sunroof has a LOT while the leading edge of the sunroof where I sanded has none. I'm not sure how far along the sides and rear the bondo extends but it is worrisome.

    Another thing that perplexes me a bit is the way the sunroof sits. When looking at it, it appears to be fairly flush all the way around it, except for at the p/s front where it is noticeably higher. I will have to dig into this a bit deeper and hopefully it will be something that is easily remedied and not the roof is twisted or something stupid. Any ideas on what to look for would be appreciated.

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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-29-2016 at 10:56 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  7. #307
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Cool beans on doing the spray work yourself. Buy some junk panels and practice on those till you get your technique down. Most auto body supply houses have paint that was mixed wrong and will sell (or give it to you) cheap so you can practice with that. It benefits them in the long run as they will have a new customer.
    On the sunroof, in my experience they rarely fit flush all the way around the circumference. Especially on older cars from the 80s. I know most ( not sure about our 4i'S) manufacturers installed them after production or outsourced them for installation. Especially pre-2000. In which case they often were kind of a universal one size fits many applications type and didn't fit all applications very well. As long as it seals on the high corner I wouldn't be too concerned with it. Just my opinion on it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  8. #308
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Cool beans on doing the spray work yourself. Buy some junk panels and practice on those till you get your technique down. Most auto body supply houses have paint that was mixed wrong and will sell (or give it to you) cheap so you can practice with that. It benefits them in the long run as they will have a new customer.
    Spraying the paint is of no real worry for me as I have done it a million times on industrial equipment and small automotive parts, just not a complete car. I know there will be a bit to learn on the final finish stage (cut and buff) as we don't do that on equipment, but I'm sure that will be fairly easy and make sense. It worries me less than applying bondo as I'm familiar with it, unlike dent removal. The only hold up really is the fact I no longer own any equipment that will support the activity. I will be picking up a nice air compressor tomorrow that works great and is plenty capable of running most air tools for FREE! All I have to do is put a new on/off switch on it as it is broke. I can verify this as it is from work and due to the fact the on/off switch was rigged, it was no longer OSHA compliant and they just replaced it instead of fix it properly. After that it will be locate a decent HVLP gun and I will be ready to rock.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-29-2016 at 11:51 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #309
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Thumbs up!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  10. #310
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    One thing that is a concern and I'm not sure how far I should go with it, is the amount of bondo. The area at the rear p/s of the sunroof has a LOT while the leading edge of the sunroof where I sanded has none. I'm not sure how far along the sides and rear the bondo extends but it is worrisome.

    Another thing that perplexes me a bit is the way the sunroof sits. When looking at it, it appears to be fairly flush all the way around it, except for at the p/s front where it is noticeably higher. I will have to dig into this a bit deeper and hopefully it will be something that is easily remedied and not the roof is twisted or something stupid. Any ideas on what to look for would be appreciated.
    After some conversation with Trey on this and a few areas he had me look at, I have most likely found the cause of the bondo and tweaked sunroof.
    There are tell tale signs on the P/S quarter area right behind the front door that this car has been smacked in the P/S at one point in time, on top of the damage I just fixed. .
    Broken glass, stud welder and puller spots on the inside quarter metal and a few suspecting welds. Oh well, the car seems to have been repaired fairly well and nothing to this point alarms me that the car is out of whack or unsafe. I haven't noticed any weird gaps in the body lines or what not other than the sunroof, so I can deal with it for now.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #311
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    There were the areas at the top of the hatch area that were sealed and beginning to show crusty flaky rust popping up below the seam sealer. The pictures don't really show it well as compared to the naked eye, but it has worrisome for awhile.

    I removed the seam sealer from the area and was relieved to not see any holes in the areas. The D/S has a spot of rust/pitting about the size of a dime. The P/S was rusted/pitted underneath most of the seam sealer but no holes. These pics are of the P/S after removing the sealer. The D/S was not really worthy of taking any photos at the time.

    I believe I can prep these areas, neutralize the rust, prime, seam seal and repaint these areas and be good as new.
    Last night I spent some time masking and taping areas of the car off so start applying some rust reformer in the hatch area. Figured I would go ahead and get this done as I'm in a holding pattern and some progress is better than none. Also I will need to paint this area when I do the quarter. Got the area taped off in a fashion that resembled the seam sealer I pulled out so I can lay the new sealer in the same fashion. Once I did that, I gave it a couple good coats of rust reformer not only in the areas that had the rust pitting but along the hatch seam that was showing some decent surface rust. Hopefully that does the job. Tonight, hopefully I can get the seam sealer laid in there and looking good.
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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #312
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Attempted to try my hand at laying seam sealer in the hatch corners last night but on the first attempt on the P/S, I have mixed feelings about the application. To me it seems a bit thin and it is pretty rough as I couldn't figure out how to smooth it without it sticking to every little thing. I'm not sure if I can utilize a second layer on top of it to try and build it up and smooth it out or if I need to remove it all and start over. I guess I need to do a little more research on how to apply this stuff. I thought I thought I took a pic of it, but I guess I didn't so I can't add a visual of the area at this time.

    On the good news side, I acquired one piece of the missing paint puzzle yesterday.......
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    An almost brand new 30 gal, 2 hp Craftsman air compressor for FREE! All I had to do is rig up an on/off switch as someone had knocked off and lost the on/off lever on the side of the pressure switch.
    I know a higher HP and larger capacity tank air compressor would be ideal for paint jobs, but I think this one should do the trick as I'm strongly considering using this gun since it has good reviews and is rated at 4 cfm @ 30 psi.

    http://www.eastwood.com/concours-lt-...gun-1-3mm.html
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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #313

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    With seam sealer, I've found you give it the look like the factory did in some places, with brush strokes, probably with a wet brush for the stickiness factor. In most other areas, a finger or a thumb and liberal doses of saliva is used to smooth it.

    Free?! Sweet! Great progress, Brock!

    Especially for painting, if you don't already have one, a water trap installed before your air hosing is a good thing.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
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    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  14. #314
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    With seam sealer, I've found you give it the look like the factory did in some places, with brush strokes, probably with a wet brush for the stickiness factor. In most other areas, a finger or a thumb and liberal doses of saliva is used to smooth it.

    Free?! Sweet! Great progress, Brock!

    Especially for painting, if you don't already have one, a water trap installed before your air hosing is a good thing.
    Thanks for the input on the sealer Mike. I will give that a try. As for the water trap in the airline, I got that covered also. The things multi-billion dollar industries throw away never ceases to amaze me.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #315
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Got the corners of the hatch sealed. I will have to say, that was the least enjoyable endeavor to date. To make it look great and smooth is almost impossible when you don't have the experience or probably the best selection of tools for that job. All in all I think it came out good enough to roll with it.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #316
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Got the rest of the seam sealing done on the hatch corners and rust reformed the 3 areas on the roof that were bubbling. I need to pick up some more filler, primer and supplies to prep those areas for paint.

    I need to pick up some brush/roll on rust reformer now to do the interior side of the roof as I don't really want to let off a spraybomb in there, since half of the interior is in it.

    While I wait on that, I am going to start the next area that will also be needing some love, attention and paint.

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    This was a long thought and tough decision in all honesty. I really wanted to use the Xenon air dam on the original nose but since it doesn't fit, I really didn't want to spend $200 to get the right one. That money will be better spent doing the dew wipes and weather stripping on the car. Since I have collected all the parts for this conversion over the past couple of years, I will make use of them and go with it. If something arises in the future, I can always revert back to the factory nose as it will be kept.

    Stay tuned!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #317
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    oh snap!!!

  18. #318
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    oh snap!!!
    Yep! She's gonna look a lot different the next time she comes out to visit you. She's gonna be like the nerdy girl in school that got hot before the first class reunion. LOL!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  19. #319
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Yep! She's gonna look a lot different the next time she comes out to visit you. She's gonna be like the nerdy girl in school that got hot before the first class reunion. LOL!
    HAHAHAHA I cant wait..

  20. #320
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    HAHAHAHA I cant wait..
    I will have to write a prescription to cure her of the drip though. It's kinda oozy and gnarly.

    That dark spot you see under it by the ramp underneath the P/S tire is steady growing. I'm almost positive it is a rear main seal but I won't be for certain until I pull the drivetrain.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #321
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    I will have to write a prescription to cure her of the drip though. It's kinda oozy and gnarly.

    That dark spot you see under it by the ramp underneath the P/S tire is steady growing. I'm almost positive it is a rear main seal but I won't be for certain until I pull the drivetrain.
    AWWW DAMN THAT DRIP SICKNESS!!! LOL

    but that is a weird spot for a rear main, I wonder if it could be the rack leaking?

  22. #322
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    AWWW DAMN THAT DRIP SICKNESS!!! LOL

    but that is a weird spot for a rear main, I wonder if it could be the rack leaking?
    The pic is kinda deceiving. The drip actually starts about center of the car then puddles out towards the tire cause my floor is unlevel LOL.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  23. #323
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Been busy lately getting some things done.

    Until I either regain my Supporter status, which has been submitted and waiting on the powers to be to approve it, so I can have more storage to upload pictures or I get time at home to try and use Photobucket or the likes to post updates since I can't access sharing sites at work, I will have to leave everyone in suspense.

    Some people have seen what is coming and the general consensus has been pretty positive. Stay tuned for updates.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #324
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Gonna play a little catch-up now.

    Had a buddy, who ironically has an '84 8Q also, tell me about some paint that was a dang close match to his car. Looking for a cheaper paint alternative for some of the less beaten areas on the car to hold over until I can afford a full repaint, I figured I would give it a shot just because. Being this car will be primarily a nice weather driver, I'm confident this will be a decent solution at this point in time, especially with the prep work that was done in these areas.

    Armed with my off the shelf spray bomb, I laid some paint into the hatch area. All in all, the color of the can is impressive. I feel it is just a touch lighter than the exterior paint, but not enough to notice unless you stare at it as hard as I did. I even brought the wife down to take a look at it, as it is proven women can decipher color differences better than men, and she said it looked good and was a spot on match. I think I trust her sight and judgement better than mine.

    I'm pretty dang happy with the look of it.

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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 11-21-2016 at 02:12 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #325
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I then took an idea from JTurbo and decided to see if I could repair my hatch hinges due to the slop in them. Took the hinges off and cut the pins out of them. They were pretty worn and definitely in need of repair.

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    Not only were the pins worn, so were the hinge bodies and this required a Plan B. Being cheap and feeling like I wanted to experiment, I did some measuring of the holes. I calculated that I would need just shy of a 1/4" bolt to make this happen and get the slop out of them. I drilled the holes in the hinge bodies and test fit the bolts I had. I had 1/4-20 x 3" bolts and was not happy with the placement of the ends of the threads in relation to the hinge body. The threads went into the body on the one side so I had 1/2 of the hinge riding on a smooth shank and the other half riding on the threads. Not only did this introduce some slop on the side with the threads, I was concerned with the threads cutting into the hinge body on that side. I ended up getting some 1/4-20 x 3 1/2" bolts and cutting some threads on them that stopped just short of the hinge body and cut the excess threads off the end of the bolt. Now with that done, the hinges have no slop in them and both ends ride on a smooth shank. Should have many years of life on these hinges now.

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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 11-21-2016 at 02:12 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

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