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  1. #251
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Getting down to business now! As much as I would love to take this whole car apart and do it right all at once, it's just not in the budget this year.......unless I hit the lottery tonight. My plan is to address the neediest parts of the body and get them shored up for a future repaint and get other items addressed so I can roll all next year without being as paranoid about water, rust and reliability.

    Got the seam sealer out of the upper hatch corners and final prepped for repair. Glad to say that this should be easy.

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    I thought that maybe this seam should be sealed, but it was brought to my attention that it was not sealed from the factory and it could be sealed if wanted. If I was to seal it, I would need to take extra caution to make sure it was done in such a way to prevent water from standing on the top.

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    I think my plan of action here will just be to clean it up really good, get some rust reformer on both sides of the seam (inside and outside of the roof skin) to help prevent any additional rusting and refinish.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #252

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Getting down to business now! As much as I would love to take this whole car apart and do it right all at once, it's just not in the budget this year.......unless I hit the lottery tonight. My plan is to address the neediest parts of the body and get them shored up for a future repaint and get other items addressed so I can roll all next year without being as paranoid about water, rust and reliability.

    Got the seam sealer out of the upper hatch corners and final prepped for repair. Glad to say that this should be easy.

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    I thought that maybe this seam should be sealed, but it was brought to my attention that it was not sealed from the factory and it could be sealed if wanted. If I was to seal it, I would need to take extra caution to make sure it was done in such a way to prevent water from standing on the top.

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    I think my plan of action here will just be to clean it up really good, get some rust reformer on both sides of the seam (inside and outside of the roof skin) to help prevent any additional rusting and refinish.
    I have a little "brown" in the same spot of my 83 but the roof skin is otherwise fine. It's like the only good spot on my car lol. Anyways, my plan of attack is the exact same as yours. I'm sure it'll work out just fine.

  3. #253
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Started sanding the rear quarter to see how bad it really is. Whats bad is it looks worse under paint but the true nature of the issue becomes apparent without the paint.

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    The areas circled in red are the areas where there is a slight bend in the panel. The areas in yellow are the deeper dents which will require most of the work. I wouldn't be surprised if when I start working on the deeper dents, the slight inward bends don't move back without having to pull on them.

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    Guess I will find out soon! What's the worst that can happen? I say.....UH OH, better call MAACO!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #254
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI View Post
    I have a little "brown" in the same spot of my 83 but the roof skin is otherwise fine. It's like the only good spot on my car lol. Anyways, my plan of attack is the exact same as yours. I'm sure it'll work out just fine.
    I'm thinking that spot will be a-ok. Can't wait to see what I find around the sunroof though when I get there.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #255
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Man brock glad to see you jump right on in there!!! Cant wait to see more

  6. #256
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    Man brock glad to see you jump right on in there!!! Cant wait to see more
    Gotta try right? At least you are enthused about the repair.......the dog wasn't. She laid there giving me the same look the wife does, which is the "you're a fool" look.

    Hey......I want to see the frowny face in your signature by the 84 GT tan on tan sold turned into a positive face.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #257
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Heck ya you gotta try!!! Believe me I will be diving head first into mine next. My wife has the same look as well...


    p.s. updated sig just for you buddy!!

  8. #258
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANGMAN116 View Post
    Heck ya you gotta try!!! Believe me I will be diving head first into mine next. My wife has the same look as well...


    p.s. updated sig just for you buddy!!

    LOL....women just don't understand. I'm positive I can do this repair, plus many more for the $900+ the body shops wanted. Makes sense to me, not so much to her.

    Thanks for updating that! It was a bit depressing seeing the sad face since this car is getting better day by day. Before long, every hack and whack job done to it by PO's will be a memory.......albeit a good story to tell my grandchildren about one day.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #259
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    I look forward to seeing this progress. I absolutely hate body work. I am not good at it in my opinion and it always takes me ten time longer then I think it should. So I procrastinate badly when it comes to body work. Glad you jumped right in! Like you said, gotta try!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  10. #260
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    I look forward to seeing this progress. I absolutely hate body work. I am not good at it in my opinion and it always takes me ten time longer then I think it should. So I procrastinate badly when it comes to body work. Glad you jumped right in! Like you said, gotta try!


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    Thanks Bill. I don't hate bodywork, I'm just a bit gun shy since this will be my first completely solo attempt at it. When I was in Mississippi, I helped my buddy a ton with it but mostly I did the prep, cutting, welding and finish work while he did the dent removal and paint. I always had an on hand instructor then but now I don't so I second guess a lot. Once I get into it, I think it will come back and make more sense.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #261
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    I have six friends who all do or did bodywork for a living. So I have tutors also. They just make it look so easy, they all are naturals at it. They have "the eye" for body work. Where I take a lot longer and haven't developed "the eye" like they have. So I try to stick to the mechanical side of things and barter with them for body work. Because most of them dread mechanical work like I dread body work. Haha


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    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  12. #262
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Great plan Bill! I don't have that luxury as I have always been the go to guy for both my family and friends. Most of them have no business driving a car, let alone working on one. The last time I saw one of my friends try to work on a car, it went up in flames. Appeared he got the hot cable for the starter pinched in the manifold to y-pipe flange to where it rubbed, arced and burnt the car to the ground.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #263
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Interesting weekend to say the least. Started off making a run for some supplies. A HF stud welder, body hammers and some filler and cleaners and it was time to rock and roll for attempt #1.

    Got the rest of the panel cleared of paint and got to figuring out where to place the studs. Figured I would place them in random spots trying to get the easiest pull on the panel.

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    I will say the stud welder worked great but the slide hammer that came with the kit left quite a bit to be desired. My biggest issue with it was the less than quality stud gripping wheel they had on it. After a few pulls with it, it liked to lock onto the stud and would not release it. Had to end up pulling the stud off the body, smacking it on the floor and then it would release. Dang HF tools!

    Got most of the outer perimeter pulled without too much drama, other than the puller, and went on trying to figure out how to get that crease out back by the panel bend. I could not get a stud welded in that area due to not having enough ground for the welder, so I got creative. I ended up taking the overlap tab on the taillight panel and bending it out of the way. This gave me enough room on the inside on the crease to use a small punch and hammer to tap the crease out. Worked on it for a while and finally got the gas door fairly even and flush with the body lines which is kinda how I gauged the panel pull.

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    Worked on the highs and lows with the body hammers and dollies until I thought they were decent enough and stared the filler process. All in all, it did not require much but there were definite spots that came through while sanding that needed a bit more attention. Worked on them some more and tried again. Second time around was much better but I'm still not 100% sure its quite right.

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    Need to do some final sand and glaze to see how it looks. I'm afraid the body contour is not quite right as it seems it does not have the right curve as compared to the P/S but maybe I'm just looking at it too hard.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  14. #264
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Today, I will be taking the car to a couple of body shops around town and see what it will cost to get the wrinkle out of the passenger side quarter and check the spot by the sunroof
    I'm not sure that I would be good enough or confident enough to repair or replace those spots myself.
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    Wow! Reading back through the thread, I ran across this posted on 7/16/15 at 8:38 am. Hard to believe what a year of scoping out this site, watching everyone's projects progress and all the questions and advice has done for me. I guess I have become confident enough to try something new.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #265
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
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    Wow brock repairs are looking great!!!!!!

  16. #266

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    Coming along nice, buddy!
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
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    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan
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  17. #267
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    This is exciting!

  18. #268
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Back to square 2! This time I removed the fuel filler neck and box, allowing me to try and work the curvature back into the body. The ground off bondo paints a better pic for me and shows me where I'm off and need to spend a little more time on.
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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-18-2016 at 11:00 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  19. #269
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Took some time to really scope out the deficient areas of the quarter last night as I was not thrilled with the first attempt. While I probably should not have spread any filler the first time, I learned a helpful lesson. Doing it twice....maybe 3 times will help me learn and understand to not make those kind of mistakes again.

    The first time around, I felt there was something off with the curvature of the quarter. More from the front to back, not so much from the top to bottom. I decided to take a long hard look at this yesterday.

    Here is what I was looking at from a top view.
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    While I'm not a body guy by any means, I can see that obviously the gas door area is still pushed inwards as seen by the bow in the molding area and the bright metal popping out of the filler by the rear of the panel.

    After I got the filler ground off and the filler neck/box removed, it gave me the room I needed to start trying to move the panel outwards. With the use of a deadblow hammer and a 2X4, I started working the molding area and around the bottom to rear upper corner of the gas door. Using a straight edge and taking some comparison measurements on the passenger side quarter, I got this one bumped out to be pretty darn close to the same contour of the other side. Had a bunch of small high spots that needed to be tapped out but this time I think it will be a lot closer to what I'm needing it to be.

    Here is a top view after the additional work and a reference pic of the P/S quarter.
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    While it is hard to see from the pictures, it is a major improvement from the first attempt to where the straight edge sat flat on the molding area and panel to where it now has close to a proper bow in it. I think once it is finished, it will be hard to see it has been repaired to the normal person.

    Still have some final smoothing to do on the filler, maybe a glaze coat and fit the gas door back on. Hopefully she will be good and I can move on without having to do it a 3rd time.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 10-18-2016 at 12:25 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #270
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Looks good!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  21. #271
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    You're getting the hang of it Brock. Once you get it in primer (I prefer light grey), wet sand it with 220 grit. Once you finish the wet sanding, keep the entire area wet for a bit. The water will give the primer a "glossy" finish. Since the repair area is all one color the gloss surface will show defects easier (similar to the gloss painted surface but well before you spray color back on the car).
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  22. #272

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    Nice progress, Brock. Looks good.

  23. #273
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Looks good!!


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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0 notchback View Post
    Nice progress, Brock. Looks good.

    Thanks guys. Growing up I always had the fleeting notion that I might want to pursue this as a career. Now that I'm into it and have been working on it, I don't know if I want to anymore. It has been interesting and informative via trial and error, while not perfect though everyone will have to understand I'm a noob. I think I see every little flaw in this and more than likely I always will. I'm still not 100% sure I will not have to try one more time in a few spots as the primer shows some issues.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #274
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    You're getting the hang of it Brock. Once you get it in primer (I prefer light grey), wet sand it with 220 grit. Once you finish the wet sanding, keep the entire area wet for a bit. The water will give the primer a "glossy" finish. Since the repair area is all one color the gloss surface will show defects easier (similar to the gloss painted surface but well before you spray color back on the car).
    I like to think I'm beginning to understand it a bit more but still have a lot to learn. After I sanded the repaired areas down, feather edged the area and felt for imperfections, which I could not feel anything that felt out of line, I shot the primer. Immediately after I did that I looked at the panel, like you suggested, and instantly noticed some areas that stick out like a sore thumb. Waited for the primer to dry and ran my hand back over it and still could not feel any imperfections. Could what I'm seeing be the difference between the texture of the repaired area vs the spots that are just bare metal, or is there something I'm missing here and it is in fact an area that needs more work?
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #275
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you can see the imperfections in the primer you will see them in the color coat. Generally you can feel imperfections that you may not see. You may not notice them with your hand due to the texture of the surface, lack of experience, of they just might be small enough that they are hard to feel.

    As JTurbo suggested, wet sanding and leaving the panel wet will give you a gloss sheen that will help you to see imperfections that need to be addressed. Being that the car will be shot in a light color such as Beige some of the imperfections may not be as visible in Beige as they are in the grey primer or in a darker color coat. That is one advantage, but as you mentioned you will see every imperfection, so I recommend trying to get the panel as flat and smooth as possible so you will be happy with the repair.

    The other advantage to the area being in primer is that when you have bare metal, primer, body color, and filler all showing the different colors can trick your eyes and the different materials can trick your hand. As you get better at this you will be able to feel imperfections by hand even before the primer coat, but it does take practice. Even with all my years of doing this, I prefer to have the area in primer to check for my imperfections as it helps to prevent you from chasing your tail many times. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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